Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Yesterday I discovered a new thing.

Can't put your highway pegs up very high on the engine guard without getting some very hot air from the radiators blowing on your feet/ankles. That will be very nice in the winter...but with it in the 90's and getting warmer, I've already lowered them a bit.

Kevin

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

It's been awhile since I updated this thread...not because I'm ignoring the TG, just been really busy between a couple of rallies and work.

The TG is at the dealers right now...been there for a week. Nothing wrong with it, but when I purchased it, part of the deal was that they would install my custom handlebars...no extra $.

Well, I provided the handlebars, and they were able to find everything else needed except the brake line. So last week they pulled the brake line off and I carried it to a local shop that specializes in hydraulic lines. They made up a custom line which I delivered back to the dealer last week.

This afternoon the dealer called and said it was all finished up. Will be heading over tomorrow to pick it up.

Here are a couple of pics I took when I stopped by to pick up the stock brake line-

I don't remember if I mentioned it or not, but I am really surprised at the new Can-bus system on the '14's. Amazingly there are only 4 wires running to each side of the handlebars (besides the throttle). Those 4 lines carry ALL the signals from all the different buttons, switches and paddles.

The weekend before taking it in for the handlebar install, Mary and I took a little trip down to south-central Alabama. Had a good ride down, good time there, and a good ride back.

I am very impressed with the '14. The little fairing vent does reduce buffeting a little. Everything seems to work the same or better than the '11.

One thing I noticed that was very different.

On the '11 if I took my hands of the handlebars it was only a matter of a second or two and it would start drifting right or left. Regardless of the camber (or lack thereof) of the road, the '11 just would not hold a straight line.

The '14 is much better. It holds a straight line unless there is significant camber to the road, and even then it only drifts slightly. Much, much nicer than the '11 I had.

Not sure if it is an improvement made, or if my '11 just drifted more than others.

It wasn't very hot...upper 80's to mid 90's. Engine temp (actually the front CHT as measured by the stock HD sensor) stayed down between 207 and 230. I'm happy with that.

The oil temps are still too high for me...I have not decided what to do about that yet. I am going to wait until the cats' gone and the Stage 1 is installed and then address it further. I saw it as high as 265* in the tank.

As I mentioned before, it has significantly more power than the '11. And the '11, which only had a Stage 1, was pretty good with 97 ft lbs at the rear tires.

I will be posting more soon, as I hope to be getting the Stage 1 taken care of within the next week.

Here's the link to the thread on the Ride Report to Bama...lots of pics.

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...ww.triketalk.com/forum/threa...e-lots-of-pics

Kevin

 

[HDB0B]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

In regards to Post #31:

Rear brake is linked proportionaly to the Front brakes (Not 100%). Front brake lever IS NOT linked to Rear brakes.
Applying Front brakes gives FULL Front braking ONLY.

Bob orag:

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

In regards to Post #31:

Rear brake is linked proportionaly to the Front brakes (Not 100%). Front brake lever IS NOT linked to Rear brakes.
Applying Front brakes gives FULL Front braking ONLY.

Bob orag:

Thank you! ThumbUp

That explains my experience.

Unreliable info from the Dealership had me confused. The parts manager insisted that the TG had ABS also. I knew that wasn't a fact, but did not know about only the foot brake being linked til just now when reading your post and then doing some research.

 

[irmagoo]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

nice trike kevin !!
magoo

 

[beezak]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Hello,
I too have installed the kit to move the floorboards out on my bike in the past including my Ultra. I ordered the kit for my 2014 TG and did the right one, no problem. Then I looked at the left one and wasn't sure what to do. I see that you move your left one out and I would like to do the same. I still have what's left in the kit. Can you give me instructions on what I need to do to move my left one out?

If it's easier my email is beezak@windstream.net

Thanks,
Beezak

Yes, it would go active with the fans on and with the fans off....because it was activating independent of the engine temperature.



Thanks!

This week has flown by!

Have not done much on the list. Today, after work I put the floorboard extensions on.

I ordered the kit from VTwinGoodies.com I knew it would only fit the right side and I would have to do some other work to make the left side work because of the parking brake.

But I thought it would be a good jumping off point.

This is the 4th kit I've purchased from VTwinGoodies, as always, it was delivered quickly.

It does not seem like moving the floorboards out 1" would make that big a difference....but it really is Much more comfortable for me.

Here is the right side stock- Foot is way up against the engine/pipes.

This is a pic of the parts from VTwinGoodies-

Here is a pic of the right side with one of the round spacers and one of the squarish spacers installed.

The hardware with the kit is Grade 8.

Much better, I can move my foot around more, and much less likely to get my boot heel scuffing up the exhaust shield.

Here is a pic of the left side in stock form. It does not feel as tight against the engine/primary, but there is still very little room to move my foot around.

I figured I was going to have to pull the bolts, see what I needed in the way of spacers and longer bolts, & then make a trip to the hardware store in the morning.

I was very happy to see there were only 3 bolts and all the same size.

I was able to use the second round spacer & a bolt from the VTwinGoodies kit. I thought I was going to have to go to the hardware store and get a couple of spacers and grade 8 bolts. Then I realized that the Sportster Passenger Comfort Peg Extensions we make would probably fit. They did!

So I was able to get it all bolted up (with lock washers and thread-locker) this evening. No need to go to the hardware store in the morning.

Here's a pic of the left side finished.

It went much easier than I thought it would.

There was plenty of wire for the parking brake to move out 1"

Tomorrow and Sunday I will be getting more items done on my list.

Kevin

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Hello,
I too have installed the kit to move the floorboards out on my bike in the past including my Ultra. I ordered the kit for my 2014 TG and did the right one, no problem. Then I looked at the left one and wasn't sure what to do. I see that you move your left one out and I would like to do the same. I still have what's left in the kit. Can you give me instructions on what I need to do to move my left one out?

If it's easier my email is beezak@windstream.net

Thanks,
Beezak

Hi Beezak,

You can go to the hardware store and get two 1" spacers and two grade 8 bolts to match the leftover spacer and bolt you have in your kit. Or if you don't want to hassle with that, we have a kit where the spacers are already powdercoated and you can order it online or by phone.

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Left...-1-PCPE-14.htm

Even though the above kit is for the 2014 Sportster, it also happens to be exactly what is needed for the 2014 left side.

Kevin

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

nice trike kevin !!
magoo

Thank you!

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Spent most of the day yesterday installing a Stage 1 Kit...Fuel Moto headers, Rush Slip-ons, Outlaw 636v with Shorty Filter(already had a Power Vision installed)and then doing a bunch of wiring-

Hooking up the two pigtails for heated gear, Isolater and canbus adapter for trailer, wiring for powerpoint in Tour-Pak.

Wiring is NOT my favorite, but everything works, so today will be cleaning up the wires, changing oil & primary fluid (trans already has redline shockproof in it).

Pictures to follow, as time allows.



Now that I have filled up 11-12 times, Another Observation-

It appears that HD has finally made an accurate fuel gauge. But I think they did it at the expense of not being able to fill all the way up. I have not taken apart the filler neck, nor looked at any diagrams, but it is different on the 14 TG and the 14 SG (only two 14's I've filled up).

When filling up with gas it goes to the top of the filler neck and looks like it's going to over flow, then it "burps" and the fuel level drops. But because of the new design it really cannot take anymore fuel.

The result is that I have gotten so low a few times that there was a sputter on acceleration or in a corner. But when I go to fill up, the 6 gallon tank will only take about 5.4 gallons.

I'm sure most like the gauge being accurate, I am just used to having another gallon in the tank after it is on E and the MTE is on 10.

On pre-14 models I have filled up countless times with 5.8 to 5.9, and even a couple of times with 6 gallons with no sputtering prior to fill up.

Not a big issue, but for long trips, it means stopping more often because of less range.

Kevin

 

[HDB0B]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Could your tank lift have ANYTHING to do with fuel levels in relationship to the fuel bung?

Thanks for alll you do here!

Bob orag:

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Could your tank lift have ANYTHING to do with fuel levels in relationship to the fuel bung?

Thanks for alll you do here!

Bob orag:

The 14 has the same 1.5" Tank Lift with the Deluxe option as the 2011 TG, and the Ultra before that...all 6 gallon tanks, all with with the same tank lifts. The difference is in the internal (plastic) filler neck, and possibly some other components.

More relevant is that Devin's 2014 Street Glide is acting exactly the same as my 2014 Tri-Glide, and he has not put a tank lift on it yet.

Kevin

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Ok, another picture update.


I already had a Power Vision tune on the bike while it was breaking in. But I recently did the rest of the Stage 1 by adding the Outlaw 636v A/C system and some Fuel Moto 2-1-2 headers, finished off (for now) with some Rush Slip-ons.


Stock A/C removed, stock headers removed. Ready to install the new headers.

Got the catless 2-1-2 headers installed, along with the slip-ons and the Outlaw 636v installed.

DETAILS-

On the 2011 TG I cut out the cat on the stock headers. This time I decided to get some headers that were already catless, also that would have the bung for the wide-band sensors. (Devin as the "PRO auto-tune" for the Power Vision that I'm going to mess with).

Also, got them ceramic coated for some heat reduction.

For a few months I've been paying close attention to the sound of slip-ons, and I kept liking the sound of the Rush best. So I put my old Rush Slip-ons on. No Baffles, just the TTI W258's. (that's the configuration that produced the best dyno #'s on the 2011, and I like the sound just fine ).

However, I will be building some slip-ons from scratch in the next couple of months. I believe they will produce more power, and hopefully I will like the sound. We'll see.

One complication encountered...the OilBud Oil Cooler thermostat housing sticks up too far for the headers with the wide-band sensors. I called Oil Bud and he overnighted me a shorter housing...except it did not show up...someone elses parts were in the box he sent me.

We ended up fabricating our own plate for the thermostat housing.

On the OilBud, I am still not done testing it...will report more when I have a definitive conclusion.

The headers installed easily and quickly, re-using the stock heat shields.

Because the 636v dyno's out ever so slightly better than the 587, even with the shorty filter element, that is what I installed. However, I am not at all sure I like the look with the shorty filter. I may end up putting a 587 on it.

On the TBW Servo Cover and the Support Bracket cover. I am not one much for chrome, but I REALLY like the set-up quite well. Covers up the wires from the servo motor, and the Rocker covers are nicely tied together with the support bracket cover.

Results (so far)

I have had it out on the road only about 100 miles since the Stage 1 upgrade. Did a couple of auto-tune runs. WOW! Stock (with the Power Vision) this thing was stronger than the Stage 1 2011 TG (which dyno'd at 97 ft. lbs).

Now with the Stage 1 on the 2014, it has significantly more power! Will be interesting to see what #'s it produces. It is more than enough for the riding we do.

As far as heat, we will know much better in a week or so. Mary and I are going on a 4 day ride this coming weekend and I'll report back after that on the heat (or hopefully lack thereof).

Wiring-

Next thing I did was a bunch of wiring.

Power Point in Tour-Pak
Two ports for heated gear
Cig Lighter mounted on handlebars
Power Vision cable routed better
Already had the Wards Parts Werks fans wire, but cleaned that up a bit
Isolator, canbus converter, and adapter for some aux lights

These are all connected directly to the battery with inline fuses. It was a real rats nest of wires once I had hooked everything up and tested to make sure it was all working. All that went without a hitch. But I did not take a pic of it when it was a rats nest...just too nasty looking.

But below is a pic of how it turned out once I tucked almost all the wires into a flexible wire conduit. I was more than a little nervous/cautious doing all this wiring on a Canbus system. But it all worked out well, and is much cleaner than the wiring I did on the 2011 TG.

Handlebars-

I need to take some better pics, but the one below are the stock bars, extended 9" longer.

Much more comfortable, and I have the following mounted on them with room to spare.

Drink holder
Power Vision
Cig Lighter
Video Camera mount

I also have some ISO grips on it and am really starting to feel a bit at home on the 2014.

Will have more to report after this next trip.

Kevin

 

[GARYD]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

How's that A/C work sitting right behind the lower fairing? Looks like it doesn't get much air compared to the stock A/C.

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

How's that A/C work sitting right behind the lower fairing? Looks like it doesn't get much air compared to the stock A/C.

It works great, flows much better, AND more air than the stock filter. (the air come from 360* around the sides of the filter, not from the front that is close to the lower fairing)

It flows 245 CFM, and utilizes the Venturi Effect to increase the velocity of the air entering the throttle body via a unique Patent Pending tube design.

However, it does not Look like it will flow a lot of air...we are all so used to the bigger elements. That is why I mentioned that I may change to the 587...just for looks.

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Another little thing I discovered on the '14 TG last week-


The cable housing for the parking brake runs directly under the drain plug for the primary...no way to drain the primary without getting oil on the cable housing.

It is easy to clean up though. After wiping it down well, it did not accumulate any dirt from any oil residue.

Kevin

 

[Pony930]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

While talking about brakes....I do not like the linked brakes. It is not a huge irritant, but I just don't like it. I want to control which brakes get how much use. Something that surprised me when I first started riding the TG-trail braking works in the curves...would have never thought it would, but it does...maybe not as much as on 2 wheels, but certainly enough to be able to be more aggressive in the curves.

With the linked brakes, trail braking does not work so good...maybe I will find a sweet spot, but so far I have not.

A few more comments on the brakes-

I never had any problem with the rear brakes on the 2011. I could lock them up at will...but it did take some pressure, and being generous, the feedback was weak...but they got the job done for me and I never felt I was in a compromised situation because of them.

On the 2014 the rear brakes are much more effective, with better feedback.

Related to that...I thought the linked brakes would work with the same proportioning whether I used the "front" brake lever or the "rear" brake pedal.

They do not. No matter how hard I squeeze the brake lever, I do not get as much feedback OR rear braking as I do when I step on the brake pedal. Interesting.

Bottom line- brakes work better, Mary's more comfortable, and I don't like them being linked. lol

=====================================================

Here is what I am quoting from the HD website about the linked brakes:
No doubt about it, there are times riding when you need to haul things down in a hurry. That’s why the Tri Glide[SUP]®[/SUP] Ultra model comes standard with rear to front linked brakes.

When the rear brake is applied the system also applies the front brake for maximum stopping power. However, the front brake is independent so you can use it without applying and brake to the rear. No matter how good you are, this will make you a better rider.

Using the front hand brake only operates the front brake, while using the foot brake uses them both.

Pony930

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

While talking about brakes....I do not like the linked brakes. It is not a huge irritant, but I just don't like it. I want to control which brakes get how much use. Something that surprised me when I first started riding the TG-trail braking works in the curves...would have never thought it would, but it does...maybe not as much as on 2 wheels, but certainly enough to be able to be more aggressive in the curves.

With the linked brakes, trail braking does not work so good...maybe I will find a sweet spot, but so far I have not.

A few more comments on the brakes-

I never had any problem with the rear brakes on the 2011. I could lock them up at will...but it did take some pressure, and being generous, the feedback was weak...but they got the job done for me and I never felt I was in a compromised situation because of them.

On the 2014 the rear brakes are much more effective, with better feedback.

Related to that...I thought the linked brakes would work with the same proportioning whether I used the "front" brake lever or the "rear" brake pedal.

They do not. No matter how hard I squeeze the brake lever, I do not get as much feedback OR rear braking as I do when I step on the brake pedal. Interesting.

Bottom line- brakes work better, Mary's more comfortable, and I don't like them being linked. lol

=====================================================

Here is what I am quoting from the HD website about the linked brakes:
No doubt about it, there are times riding when you need to haul things down in a hurry. That’s why the Tri Glide[SUP]®[/SUP] Ultra model comes standard with rear to front linked brakes.

When the rear brake is applied the system also applies the front brake for maximum stopping power. However, the front brake is independent so you can use it without applying and brake to the rear. No matter how good you are, this will make you a better rider.

Using the front hand brake only operates the front brake, while using the foot brake uses them both.

Pony930

Yes, I learned that recently...original info I had was from dealer and it was wrong. My experience makes sense now.

Still don't like the linked brakes...would not have minded it if they had linked the front brake lever, but the rear brake foot pedal being linked takes a bit of fun out of the game. :laugh:

 

[MB1953]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Now that I have filled up 11-12 times, Another Observation-

It appears that HD has finally made an accurate fuel gauge. But I think they did it at the expense of not being able to fill all the way up. I have not taken apart the filler neck, nor looked at any diagrams, but it is different on the 14 TG and the 14 SG (only two 14's I've filled up).

When filling up with gas it goes to the top of the filler neck and looks like it's going to over flow, then it "burps" and the fuel level drops. But because of the new design it really cannot take anymore fuel.

The result is that I have gotten so low a few times that there was a sputter on acceleration or in a corner. But when I go to fill up, the 6 gallon tank will only take about 5.4 gallons.

I'm sure most like the gauge being accurate, I am just used to having another gallon in the tank after it is on E and the MTE is on 10.

On pre-14 models I have filled up countless times with 5.8 to 5.9, and even a couple of times with 6 gallons with no sputtering prior to fill up.

Not a big issue, but for long trips, it means stopping more often because of less range.

Kevin

What I have noticed on my '14 TG is that originally when I hit the low fuel warning, I could get about 5.5 gallons in. After installing the DK 2" tank lift kit with deluxe option, at the low fuel warning I can only top off 5 gallons. Not a complaint, 'cause the bike looks better, is easier to clean the top end, and seems to be a little cooler. Just an observation, so I have to top off a little more often. Nice stuff Kevin, keep 'em coming, pleased with what I have bought from you so far!

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

What I have noticed on my '14 TG is that originally when I hit the low fuel warning, I could get about 5.5 gallons in. After installing the DK 2" tank lift kit with deluxe option, at the low fuel warning I can only top off 5 gallons. Not a complaint, 'cause the bike looks better, is easier to clean the top end, and seems to be a little cooler. Just an observation, so I have to top off a little more often. Nice stuff Kevin, keep 'em coming, pleased with what I have bought from you so far!

Something I just learned. If you rock the bike side to side (not front to back) it will burp and let you put about another 1/2 gallon in. Oddity of the new filler neck.

Kevin

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Some new pics/info on most recent mods-


I wanted my passing lights to be yellow...just to stand out a bit more to oncoming traffic, both during the day and night.


I got some film from lamin-x.com and it worked like a charm.

Really happy with how it turned out, and it did not seem to reduce how well they light up the road at night.


I originally had pulled the stock air cleaner and replaced it with the 636v with the shorty filter. Had to use the shorty because of the radiator filled lower fairings.


While it functioned fine, I just could not get past how weird it looked with that filter on there.


So I pulled it off and put my Outlaw 587 filter from the 2011 TG back on...running it with the Chrome Bobber Cover.


Only thing I did different is use the Premium Discrete Breather System with the SS Braided hose and the Chrome Hose Clamp Covers.


I did keep the Chrome Support Bracket Cover on to tie the two rocker covers together.


Here's a pic with the 587 backplate on and the beginning of the PD Breather System.

Here it is with the SS Braided Hose installed...with the Chrome Hose Clamp Covers for a bit of a finished look. I know the hose is not symmetrical in the install, but it is covered by the Bobber cover, and I wanted the hose to have a forward angle to it after the T-Connector.

Here's a pic of it all put together...still inside.

Couple Pics of it outside-

I routed the hose forward and then down on the left side to the filter...between the frame and the floorboard.


Had to get down on the ground to see it to take a pic. Still lots of mud under there from the Boogie Rally. lol

I've been extremely happy with how it's running, and we are enjoying it even more than the '11.


That's it for now. More thoughts and pics to come in the next week or so.

 

[PIGGI]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Kevin, any risk that the SS hose will rub thru the push rod tube? Lot of vibration at that point and SS acts like sandpaper.

 

[Lizard]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Did you buy a sheet of the film and cut it yourself? I went to the site and didn't see any yellow or amber rounds.

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Kevin, any risk that the SS hose will rub thru the push rod tube? Lot of vibration at that point and SS acts like sandpaper.

I've ridden about 300 miles since this install. Just went and checked the hose. Pics I posted alter the perception a bit. The hose is 1/2" or more away from all parts of the engine and exhaust. Only place they are close is to the back of the cover...that's ok with me if it scratches that edge.

Appreciate the heads-up, am going to keep an eye on it and make sure nothing shifts.

Did you buy a sheet of the film and cut it yourself? I went to the site and didn't see any yellow or amber rounds.

No, I bought them pre-cut with tabs. Here's the link-

http://www.lamin-x.com/Harley-Davids...er-p/hd021.htm

Kevin

 

[Sloufoot]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Hi Kevin,
Have you done any testing with the Dynojet Pod-300 yet. Looks like iy will change the PCV to a visual display & add some more features that are on the PV.

 

[HDB0B]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Did you buy a sheet of the film and cut it yourself? I went to the site and didn't see any yellow or amber rounds.

http://www.lamin-x.com/Harley-Davids...les-s/1590.htm

Choose size .... choose color.

Bob orag:

 

[riden2low]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Dennis, what do you think of the Fuelmoto Headers? Now I know the one thing for you to replace headers was getting rid of the Cat. Now me being in Oregon we don't have that restriction ( yet ). The shop was asking if I wanted to put on Vance Hines headers on to match the exhaust. For me, is it worth the extra cost of replacing the headers since we don't have the Cat? I am curious if I would notice that big of a difference?

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Hi Kevin,
Have you done any testing with the Dynojet Pod-300 yet. Looks like iy will change the PCV to a visual display & add some more features that are on the PV.

Wow, that was fast!

Yes, we have a unit coming our way to evaluate. Just from what I discussed, it does look like something we'll be carrying for any existing PCV Customers that want to add some cool features.

Dennis, what do you think of the Fuelmoto Headers? Now I know the one thing for you to replace headers was getting rid of the Cat. Now me being in Oregon we don't have that restriction ( yet ). The shop was asking if I wanted to put on Vance Hines headers on to match the exhaust. For me, is it worth the extra cost of replacing the headers since we don't have the Cat? I am curious if I would notice that big of a difference?

This is Kevin, not Dennis. I like the fuelmoto 2-1-2 header pipe. It's a bit better than the stock headers both power wise and sound wise...and, of course, they don't have a cat.

The heat from the stock exhaust has never bothered me, but not having the cat is a Big Plus for Mary, riding as a passenger.

I am 99.9% sure that your TG, purchased in Oregon does have a cat in the stock exhaust.

If you want a bit more power, or a bit deeper sounding exhaust, or want to reduce the heat radiating from the exhaust, then the FM 2-1-2 is an excellent choice.

Other side of the coin is, if you have all the power you want, and are happy with the sound, and the heat does not bother either of you, save that $.

Kevin

 

[riden2low]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Wow, that was fast!

Yes, we have a unit coming our way to evaluate. Just from what I discussed, it does look like something we'll be carrying for any existing PCV Customers that want to add some cool features.




This is Kevin, not Dennis. I like the fuelmoto 2-1-2 header pipe. It's a bit better than the stock headers both power wise and sound wise...and, of course, they don't have a cat.

The heat from the stock exhaust has never bothered me, but not having the cat is a Big Plus for Mary, riding as a passenger.

I am 99.9% sure that your TG, purchased in Oregon does have a cat in the stock exhaust.

If you want a bit more power, or a bit deeper sounding exhaust, or want to reduce the heat radiating from the exhaust, then the FM 2-1-2 is an excellent choice. Other side of the coin is, if you have all the power you want, and are happy with the sound, and the heat does not bother either of you, save that $.

Kevin

Opps LOL LOL Sorry Kevin. And you are right on the CAT. For some reason I was under the impression that here in Oregon they weren't used. But found out that we do have the CAT. Now that I know that, I will be sure to change out the headers. I like idea of a free flowing system

 

[Trent]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

V & H Power Duals would work really well with your V & H Mufflers. Very happy with mine.

 

[DK Custom Products]

Re: Ongoing 2014 Tri-Glide build-out, lots of pics and thoughts on the differences

Got a few little things to report...mostly I've just been riding it and enjoying it.


Not sure if I mentioned, I am running the Fuel Moto 2-1-2 ceramic coated headers with my Rush Slip-ons, no baffles, with W258 Thunder Torque Inserts. Love the tone, no flat spots, and lots of comments on how good it sounds.


A few weeks ago the toggle on the left side for moving forward to the next song quit working. The up/down of the toggle works for volume, but not the forward/back part for fast forwarding or skipping to the next song on the MP3. Need to take it in and get the fixed under warranty...the toggle feels fine, just no functionality.


Today my fender running lights, fender brake lights and left fender turn signal all quit working. Haven't checked yet, but I sort of doubt it's the actual filaments...more likely wiring harness or BCU. Will check bulbs, and replace if necessary, but other than that that's another warranty issue when I take it in. (the tour pak running, brake and turn signal lights are all still working)


I've about given up on making the oil bud oil cooler function satisfactorily...it's just not designed to work with a Twin Cooled TC...the entire water pump assembly blocks to much of the air that needs to be flowing over it for it to work well. May be coming up with a design to use a Jagg oil cooler under the body with an air scoop.


Will update this thread with results on the electric stuff soon. Oil cooler may take longer...I am booked out with projects until almost the end of October.


One of the projects we're working on is an on-board air compressor to adjust the rear shocks with a push of a button..while sitting still or going down the road. I've wanted one of these for the last 10 years or so, but they are just too expensive for me (as it is a convenience item only). But it looks like we can build the kits for substantially less than anything else on the market. Testing has been underway for awhile, and it's working well!!!


Mary and I just got back from a 2700 mile trip on the Softail. It was a lot of fun. But getting back on the TG for the last couple of days for a couple hundred miles sure reminded me how much I like the TG!

Kevin