VW Coilovers for Leading Link Forks

[irondad01]

Will cutting 1/8" off help or hurt setting the preload on your neck bearings?
On the wheel bearings, do you have a local store that sells bearings and seals? I have one near me and it's nice to be able to look at them before you buy. They carry name brand stuff ( Timken, etc. ) that's not too expensive. They can measure your old ones and match them.

 

[Fowler]

There used to be a Kawasaki shop the next town over and there is a Harley shop a little farther. I will check them both.
As far as cutting the 1/8 off. I just do not know. For now I will not cut them.

so far today I welded in the nuts



Im also working on the skirt around the top plate

 

[Fowler]

Tack welded for now.


Both skirts on

 

[Fowler]

I found the bearings
O'Reilys had them

 

[Fowler]

Got the top plate all welded, neck and wheel bearings greased and the wheel on.
I was hand packing the bearings when the Ol'Lady came in. I accidentally touched her good coat. She was not to happy about that.


Next will be the shocks and maybe a modification to the rockers
Thinking of adding a top plate to the rockers for extra strength sideways. Need to figure out the max the wheel/tire will be able to move upward. This will tell me how far back toward the legs I can put the top plate without hitting the legs.

 

[Fowler]

This mornings work
I don't think the wheel will go this high but just in case, I left a little extra distance between the leg and the top plate


1/4 X 1 1/2 flat bar on top of 1/2 X 2
Cut the washers flat on one end.(it turned a little in this pic)
I'm thinking this should add some sideways strength


Good platform to mount shocks to

 

[Fowler]

 

[Fowler]

Lower shock mounts. Upper ones next. I have several options for this and have not decided yet.
I put the lower mounts 4" from the pivot / 3" from the axle

 

[Fowler]

So for the top mounts I think I will go with something like the below again. This pic is from my last front end build. (never tested on the road though)
I will raise the front of the trike by 1" and hope it will compress down to the ride level I want. I can adjust this up and down before I actually weld it.

 

[Fowler]

Its back on 3 wheels again
Still have more work to do on the top mounts. Want to put a top plate on it

 

[Fowler]

I had to take the forks off to do some welding and clean up.


While the forks are off I cleaned up the neck area and checked for cracks. No cracks that I could see.

 

[Fowler]

Fender is just sitting a 2x4
I'm sure I can adapt it to the forks.
But first I have to figure out how to adapt the handle bars to the forks

 

[Fowler]

We have had several power outages the last few days so I did not get a lot of work done
Today I am going to try to get the handle bars adapted to the forks.
I cut a 1/4 plate, welded some 1/2 spacers to it. That will be bolted to the top fork plate. The handle bars will be welded to the plate I made. I spent a while yesterday trying to align it, still did not get it right. I have some ideas on how to make it stronger at that end


Im printing a test for the turn single lights.
This is what I decided on, (if it works out right)



The test print. I will reprint in a better filament once I get it the way I want.
The type of infill I am using will allow me to fill it with epoxy
Iv tested other prints outside and on the front of my truck. The one on my truck has been there for about 6 months or so with no signs of damage. The others have been outside for years again no weather damage. The dogs did get a hold of a few and chewed them up some

 

[Fowler]

I was able to take a ride today. Just up the street a few times testing.

First couple times I had it tack welded and clamped (hoping it held)
Had to adjust it a little and then tested again, It was straight. I did a couple more test rides. All good.
Drilled the holes for the plate and bolted them together with 4 3/8 grade 8 bolts


It ran straight and felt good. I have a better turn radius, adjusted the bars a little higher than before.
Then it started to make a knocking sound, May shocks were too lose. I adjusted it and had my son jump up and down on it. Will do a road test again tomorrow or when the roads are good.

 

[LarryA]

Always a relief when things work out to your satisfaction. Curious if you will put bail or a hoop around the back to tie your rockers together?

 

[Fowler]

Always a relief when things work out to your satisfaction. Curious if you will put bail or a hoop around the back to tie your rockers together?

I most likely will. I still need to mount my fender and i believe it mounts back there. Plus I think it makes it stronger

 

[Fowler]

I did not get a lot done yesterday. I got started on it then got drawn away to other things.
I did disassemble it and started paint it with primer. When I was reassembling it I realized I did not have a way to lock the neck bolt nut. I made this lock washer for it. Just have to bend the tab. the back part of the washer is bent over the back of the plate, locking it in place but still removable. I will use some lock tight also.
That's where I got pulled away

 

[Fowler]

the test turn single turned out good
now to figure out where and how to mount them and them print 2 from good filament


This afternoon I will be working on the turn singles and headlights

 

[Gorilla]

the test turn single turned out good
now to figure out where and how to mount them and them print 2 from good filament
View attachment 131147View attachment 131148
View attachment 131149View attachment 131150
This afternoon I will be working on the turn singles and headlights
View attachment 131151

WOW starting to come together. Nice work

 

[Fowler]

May take a break today. My left arm hurts. VA wants to do surgery on both arms but I have been pushing it off. Don't want to be down that long.
I need to get the Trike out on to the main road to see how it does but its been cold out.
Yesterday I figured out I will mount the headlights basically the same way I had them before.
I also added back some rebar I had on it before. Drilled and tapped the screw holes (I think this is why my arm hurts) Notice at the bottom of the handlebars I added a 1/4 triangle brace on each side.


I am printing a new test turn signal. I added some bolt holes, widen the neck for a stronger base, put holes in the nostrils and ears for light will come out of them also and made it a little wider.
The actual turn signal will be mounted to a plate and the head I am printing will just fit over it. That worked good when I tested it.
After I print the actual ones I will use, I will give the test prints I have done to the neighbor kids

 

[Fowler]

I hope the turn signal heads I am making meet the VA code

§ 46.2-1039. Requirements of turn signals; regulations.​

Every turn signal used to give a signal of intention to turn a vehicle shall be so constructed and so installed as to give a signal plainly visible in clear weather and under normal traffic conditions from a distance of at least 100 feet to the rear and 100 feet to the front of the vehicle. No front turn signal, however, shall be required on vehicles manufactured before January 1, 1943.

 

[Fowler]

The wires for my headlights were always smashed against the back of the housing. I decided to extend them. They are not done yet, need to dress them up now

 

[TomyJ]

I hope the turn signal heads I am making meet the VA code

§ 46.2-1039. Requirements of turn signals; regulations.​

Every turn signal used to give a signal of intention to turn a vehicle shall be so constructed and so installed as to give a signal plainly visible in clear weather and under normal traffic conditions from a distance of at least 100 feet to the rear and 100 feet to the front of the vehicle. No front turn signal, however, shall be required on vehicles manufactured before January 1, 1943.

Bob, There should be more information on the signals, here in California I use the DMV BIG BOOK for distance from ground and distance apart and brightness etc... Good build have fun with it.

 

[Fowler]

I just noticed this.
BUILD IT BOB
Funny and better than other names I have been called

 

[Papa Zook]

I just noticed this.
BUILD IT BOB
Funny and better than other names I have been called
View attachment 131254

I thought it fitting, so I added it...you're one heck of a fabricator.
I can remove it if you want...

 

[Fowler]

I thought it fitting, so I added it...you're one heck of a fabricator.
I can remove it if you want...

Its Ok.

Did some work today
First I think I will use the head on the right for my turn signal. Its a little wider, has more holes, so more light gets out. The ears do not have much light. I was thinking of painting the inside with a silver, chrome paint or something like that
Tomorrow I will start a print out of the filament I want for this. It takes 4 days to print each one but they are not expensive to print


Not done with the lights yet. They are drying.

I have been looking at how to mount the fender. I'm not sure on the mount points.

OK, just though it was funny.

 

[Fowler]

I have been looking around and cant seem to find a clear picture of how a fender is mounted on this type of leading link .
Anyone have any pics?
Where are the mounting points?
How much space should I leave between the tire and fender?
I'm headed into town to pick up some rebar for the fender supports

So my headlights never harden up.
I fiberglass them and put them in the laundry room. The Ol'Lady made me put them back out in the cold.
I have them sitting on top of a radiator heater now. I assume I will have to strip them and re-fiberglass them.

 

[irondad01]

Hi Bob, on page 2 on the pictures of how I mounted my shocks you can see what I did with my fender. I mounted it right on the rocker, the front with the strut and the back bolted to the loop around the back of the tire. It moves with the rocker and wheel so the distance never changes. I left a little room for clearance. It was like that for 12 years with no problems.

 

[Fowler]

Hi Bob, on page 2 on the pictures of how I mounted my shocks you can see what I did with my fender. I mounted it right on the rocker, the front with the strut and the back bolted to the loop around the back of the tire. It moves with the rocker and wheel so the distance never changes. I left a little room for clearance. It was like that for 12 years with no problems.

Thank you for the quick reply. That is what I thought but since I have never done it before just wanted some conformation.
I looked back at your pic

This is what I was planning
2 front braces on either side of the wheel. Both coming from right above the axle to the fender, then as you have on yoursI will mount it on back also.
I picked up some water pipe insulation and was planning to lay that on top of the tire for spacing then the fender on top of that

 

[Fowler]

Got a little done then the Ol'Lady had me work on something else.

I have 1 brace done on each side . The Blue is another I was planing. The Red is something I would like to do. It may be to close to the shock though.
I am using 3/8 rebar because I like the look. I know I could do it with something stronger but I like the look of rebar and I believe it will be plenty strong enough (at least I hope so)


Started looking at the back. Again I like the look of rebar. Was thinking of wrapping 2 1/2" rebar around the rebar I already have.
I could weld it to the rocker or to a plate that is bolted to the rocker