Anyone else?

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Well....recutting that seat on the fitting fixed the oil drip. Never was the hoses to start with.

Now messing with the oil pressure. The pressure spring that came in the regulator is too much pressure. I put a different spring in and it seemed ok. But now that it is mostly broke in the pressure is lower than I want while hot. I have also taken the break on oil out. I now has 5w20 in it. Still dino oil but will be switching to synthetic after a couple thousand miles (next oil change). I might even try 0w10 oil.

But anyway....I wound up stretching the light spring and putting it back in. Will see what that does. I gotta search for a spring somewhere in the middle.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Stretching that light spring did put me in the range I want to be in. I am still going to find a spring of the right pressure.

But

The engine is broke in and the pressure not going too high.....so now I am working with high rpm.

And it has changed and is getting crazy.

Some back story.....remember when I was building the header. I did a lot of anti reversion can research and based mine from that. The math had it with cans on each cyl AND one on each collector.

Now when I put it all together I left the reducer cone off the collector can.

Why?

It sounded better....cooler....with the big rumble.

I dont know if the individual cans were doing anything or not.....but you very definitely knew the difference between "off cam" below 3000 rpm and "on cam" above 3500 rpm. I had been tuning on that bottom end and the transition to on cam. I had it pleasing to drive....enough power....sudden jolt onto the cam smoothed down...could drive it all day without ever getting on cam. Cool deep rumble and a definite place to short shift. Rumble and gurgle all around .......

So.....yesterday....

I put the reducer cones on the collector cans......which were internally the anti reversion chambers....just was not closed so were not functional....

Huge night and day difference..... I dont know how to describe the sound.....no rumble....more buzzy but lower in pitch....motorcycle...

So not as cool hot rod sound.....but good gawd....it is "on" all the time. No more off to on point. Just one massive RIP all the way to 7500 rpm before you know what to do with it. I doubt it has any more peak hp but....it pulls so hard all the way up that I am scared of breaking the gearbox.

So there is some merit to the anti reversion can theory.....

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

My girls liked the big rear floor boards that were also the heat shielding.....but I did not like the look.....they seemed out of place......not fit in.

So I made something else. A more hot rod styled floor board that is smaller but big enough. Then cobbled together bits of old motorcycle clamp on heat shield to cover the pipes.

I like it better and think it fits me better.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

And a couple other neeto pics in the sun.....before the exhaust cones....





Dont let the anti gunners stare at that front end too long......lol

 

[LarryA]

reply

looking good.......ya, floorboards fit the trike,look right on there.

I'm lost with the anti reversion business, but proof is in the performance!

The upper rpm range is where the math, science and physics live, sounds like good things goin on up there!

Now, got to keep the gears in the case where they belong.

Maybe post a side shot of that trike? thanks

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

What kinda side shot?

I suppose most of them are not square on sides.

 

[LarryA]

side shot

thanks....about all your pics were front/rear or quartering, no sides that I remember. Have mentioned before....your weight distribution must be about perfect, solo or w/ passenger.

With all that new found power, weight distribution is super important.

Nice side profile, tank looks great. Like the exhaust running thru blank tranny case!

When looking at anything, to me,the side profile is the most important, that said, in my opinion, you nailed it!:clapping:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

196 at the wheels translates to around 225 at the crank.



And.

Breaks parts.....something is wrong with third.

 

[vwbug72501]

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yep....I put a hurting on it.

That nut was not loose...no shaft endplay.

So it is definitely deep in there.

I am guessing a split/cracked 3-4 syncro hub.

I thought I had it built up to handle 200 crankshaft hp. But I made more than that.





Apart it comes.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

I just love how clean everything looks. Bummer that you have to open it up, but at least you get to look over everything involved and see if anything else is showing signs of stress. A chance to build it up stronger, that is some horsepower you have cranking it all.

 

[LarryA]

hopefully case and shafts are good? Good luck! Always a bummer when something fails.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

It did not do a major blow out.

Trans still functioned just not correctly.

Everything should still be good except for whatever is the failing part.....hub....thrust bearing...ect.

This was not a rev it up and dump the clutch thing like drag racing is.

More a gentle accel the drum in 1 and 2.

Get into 3rd and get it stable and at an rpm you think you can start at without bogging. Basically as slow as you can go in 3rd without chugging and pinging. Get stable aaaand....start recording......and nail it. No jerk, dump, snatch.....just as hard as it will dead pull.

Computer calculates the rate of acceleration of the heavy rollor.

I spun it 132mph in third gear.

 

[vwbug72501]

Time to think about tire speed ratings? Don't want a tire exploding even on the dyno. :xzqxz:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

All 3 are 130mph rated tires.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I have the gear stack out and on the table.

Not yet tore down. Just by a visual inspection it looks like 3-4 hub and/or slider is not round.

The big thing is both brass syncros are broken into several pieces.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Ouch, broken synchros, that is going to hurt

 

[LarryA]

could it be a shaft bending under load , or a worn hub/gear tooth profile allowing the partial disengagement in

3rd gear? doesn,t sound like it popped out of gear, but some sleeve or bearing allowing 3rd gears/hubs to rattle around?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

It looks like the hub twisted.

It is not as hard as a gear.

The gears and shafts will take it.

The syncro hubs are what connects the gears to the shaft.

 

[LarryA]

hopefully there are stronger hubs available.....I had thought that a loose pocket bushing/bearing or loose countershaft front bearings, or worse yet spreading case bores could let the 3rd gears get loose....a bad hub is actually maybe the best news you could get!...at least that would explain the broken syncronizer I suppose with a direct 4th gear tranny 3rd is the weakest gear, but the gear that catches most of the grief....just the way it goes...good luck...hope you can make it stronger!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

4th gear is not 1 to 1.

Mine is .82 to 1

Most normal is .89 to 1

Third and fourth are both aftermarket gears.

First and second are stock vw gears.

The output/pinion shaft is aftermarket splined shaft to do away with the keys.

It looks like I put a replacement "heavy duty" aftermarket hub and slider assembly on 3-4.

After talking to a race trans builder I have been told that that heavy duty unit is half junk. Said the slider is excellent but the hubs were soft. A stock hub would be better.

I think I am gonna put it back together with a German hub, the hd slider, and new syncro rings.

Now to dig in my junk pile for an original keyed 3-4 hub. Then buy some new brass parts.

 

[LarryA]

Just familiar with old school transmissions. Good to hear there was minimal damage. I suppose stock hubs have some heat treatment, whereas aftermarket, who knows what material and heat treatment?

Are they a cast steel item, then internally and external broached?

Anyway you've found the weakest link in the chain.

Good luck on your way back together.

 

[LarryA]

looked at the vw transmission diagrams this am. I am assuming the reason that the vw 4th or top gear is gear driven instead of coupled, must be that the power flow must take a 180 deg turn whereas in our conventional transmissions power flow is straight thru. Hope I am on the right track....lol I try to do my heavy thinking in the morning!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

That is basically it.

Good thing is that it can be changed to different ratios.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Muncha Buncha

 

[vwbug72501]

Ouch!!!:AGGHH::Crap::busted::AGGHH:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

3-4 hub is not round anymore. These broke rings are just collateral damage.

I tore down another core.....and not happy with the rings in it either.

But the hub was real nice.

I thought I was going to scrounge up some parts and put it right back together. Just ain't working out that way. Looks like I will be ordering parts.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Bummer

Not good at all, but at least you found what went wrong and have the ability to fix it.

Never opened up a tranny yet, you were my first, wow, what a whole new world. I am not a motor head, just that person that learned what was needed to fix what was needed. I just keep finding new info on new subjects I never thought of.

so you have to wait, yet so that you fix it.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yeah....I am just gonna replace this weak link and see if it holds up.

This trans is far far from stock. It has some hp parts in it already. It just was not built or heavily worked on this time around.

I built it with the original build of the trike. And then did not like the gear ratios and took it back apart and changed a lot of parts. Not because of broken but to up gear it more.

I changed 3 and 4. I also put a new hub assembly in for them. Now years later I find out that the hub in that assembly is weaker than stock.

 

[LarryA]

years ago....like 45+ a guy at work, who ran vw's said you needed special fixtures to work on and assemble these transmissions, for that reason he just swapped with good used trannys. Any truth to the fixture business?