Anyone else?

Wish you could tell more.

But all I have is the cell phone.

I had thought of getting a go-pro when girlie was racing dirt track. But got a telemetry unit instead.

This is the road to the church. I do live a bit rural.

I have to get more serious about tuning. All I have been able to drive and laptop at the same time is real small low speed snippets of time. I need to find a way to run it varied and hard while holding a lap top.

I wonder how much abuse the brakes can take? Put it on jack stands and power up while holding the brakes......maybe.
 
Then last Saturday morning I made a small highway trip (its first).

This show was advertised as 8am to 2pm.

I was around 9am getting there. Very few to show up yet. The organizers said they really did not expect people to show until after lunch. I did not have all day to hang out and wait on show time. I hung around about an hour then hit the road. Was back home with my girls by lunch time.

15288631091041.jpg
 
I have done some data logging with and have found some problems. Took a while to find the cause and it appears to be self inflicted.

My seemingly....(buy ear)....lean popping during more aggressive throttle is not a lean out. The rotation pulse would skip or blink in and out. Micro skips in fire and with no pulse there is no fuel either.

Lots of hunting for where the connection is lost. Found it. Right at the VR crank trigger plug.

When I was first getting the electronics to boot up and do what they are supposed to I had that issue that the ford parts have to boot before the computer. During that trouble shooting I picked the wires out of the connector to check polarity (the vr and plug are not marked and it was all a guess to start with).

So somehow I left the clip out of the plug. Now the connections are not tight. I guess the vibrations when hard on the throttle breaks the connection.

This is not the connector, but is the style ford has. That red part pulls out then the metal clips pull out the other direction.

2899F.jpg

So I hafta get a plug. No clue where the red clip went.

The o2 is blinking also, but it may be from the same.
 
just curious....does the ford module and the mega squirt boot at each key on? or... is this booting, you speak of a one time setup thing at mega squirt setup?
 
I briefly mentioned it here.

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/22910-Anyone-else/page48

But did not go into great detail.

The computer is set up to "turn on" all the other engine electronics. Fuel pump, sensors, ect. And that is how I had it all wired up. It was supposed to turn on the ford module.

But.

With the ford module off (un powered) the computer saw it as a dead short. Then would shut down to protect itself.....wait a few seconds....and try again. Something you will see called "resets".

I had to move the power on for the ford module to the key on relay. This way the module is booted before the megasquirt. The computer sees it and is talking right away.
 
So it has been a while since last post here on my old thread.

After discovering the missing connector clip I rigged some thing up and got that intermittent issue patched (but not fixed).

I got a couple good logs and was hammering on it a lot......a whole lot.

The oil cooler started leaking and I was down a couple weeks.

Finally got a new cooler and back together, but then did not have any time with it. Just busy with everything else, sickly wife, busy kid, ect.

Actually where I stopped the tuning at is running quite well, but I am sure there is more to do.
 
So it sat for a few weeks with a full tank of gas......waiting for me.

Then I finally got a day to play. I have not tuned any more, but rode all day.

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Natchez Trace near my home (15 miles away).

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Cruised a tank at the 50mph speed limit. Got 24mpg.

Then on the way back ran 65 to 70mph and got 25mpg.

Must be a tuning thing.....

 

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like the video, good to see you are out and about....getting a few bugs out of the trike....our summer is slipping away....rode some yesterday, was cool, sweatshirt under a jacket. got about 6 wks left of a season....I suppose you will ride till Christmas?
 

On the vid Ride Home you can tell a little.

When I start off 1st and 2nd get revved to just barely on the cam.

The tone starts to change around 3000rpm and is starting to talk at 3500. I pulled 1 and 2 to around 4500. So just a little of on cam talk. You do realize this is a 7500rpm motor and there is a lot more to go. I rarely get it up that high in normal driving. What your see there in Ride Home is pretty much my normal hot take off. I like to hear it turn on and right after it turns on I stick the next gear.

I could drive around and never even get to the cam turn on point.

The Natchez Trace vid is at a low gurgle for the 50mph speed limit there. You can not hear the engine over the wind noise.
 
Went and rode with my little sister today (her birthday)

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I guess the whole time we were riding away from the rain. Did get her home before getting wet. Did have to turn around and go a different route.

But I was not so lucky. Was still 20 miles from my home. Almost the whole way in a good hard rain.

Scooter handled it though. The electronics are not all waterproof. But everything stayed working while wet.

It did wet me down good through. Looks like the rooster tail from the front tire goes straight onto the crank pulley and it in turn makes a circular spray right across the calves.....filled my shoes up.

It is scary loose on the back end though, feels solid but just a touch on the throttle and it is spinning. The skinny front seemed to stay hooked up and steerable.
 
Here is an interesting one.

Stopped on the side of highway to start some pocket video.

So putting along in second waiting on a car to pass by.

Well he got over to let me in.

I give it a squirt of gas.

And then he starts coming over on me.

I back off and go around him on the far side.

I suppose he did not expect the to instantly be at 60mph (rural highway speed here).

 
wow, that is not cool. Could it be a flaw in the unit, did you change brands or use the same type when you changed them out ?

Did the blow out occur in the same area on the cooler ?

What a mess, no I do know much, just throw out some questions trying to help. Most would say to much pressure for the cooler, or that a stuck solenoid on the return line causing to much pressure in the cooler.

Oh I should have said " my mind would have said those things to myself".

Not good Rex, and I am sure you have thought and went over many things with the first blow out. Your knowledge of what you did to that engine, wow, it just blows me away.

My mind is going nuts know wondering what caused it to blow out, here to learn all that I can.
 
I know right......

Same set up as I have had on it for lots of years.

I did add to or hang more stuff off the bottom mount lugs. Maybe I have put more vibrations into it.

The first one that sprung a leak I blamed on myself. When I first cranked up the engine the oil pressure was too high. So I thought I had put some damage to it then and it began to leak a short while later.

This one has not had that happen. All good and then leak.

So the only change is the extra stuff on that mount. The cooler is rubber mounted but maybe it is too stiff now?

I am gonna make a bypass something so I ain't down. But I have found me a block of aluminum and may just whittle out a billet unit. Probably will not shed the heat like it should but I may try and see. My oil still is not hot anyways.
 
But I have found me a block of aluminum and may just whittle out a billet unit.

I like how you said that Rex. I say "I can whittle that" with wood a lot, yet you say it with metal, just blows me away how different the two are, yet so much seems to be the same process, just different tools and machinery..

I do hope you can find what you need to make your bypass. Safe riding.:D:D
 
Sorta kinda, but not really.

Lower and right of center for both of them.

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I am thinking that regulator although it itself is light but with the added tension of the hose adding to it.

Maybe that reg and stack of fittings is more of a lever on the cooler. Then that hose is so short. But then the hose takes to the shape after a couple heat cycles.

I dunno......just thinking that short hose is pushing/pulling on the regulator with its stack of fittings.

Wow what a rambling diatribe.....
 
assuming the break is where circled in yellow....looks like cooler mount is about 2 inches above the leak? Kind of midway between reg. and mount.....vote for the stress break, might have to have separate reg and cooler mountings and use very flexible hoses. but where to put them?

I know you will figure it out.
 

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