Anyone else?

No but giving the 2.4 Ecotec 170 hp computer motor a lot of thought . $2200 plug and play straight to the door comes with everything I need .:Shrug:
 
Fuel who and curve what?? Dude, you just went way above my pay grade! I'm still settin' points! :D

Good luck and let us know how it turns out! I might even learn something! ThumbUp
 
Well I have it apart.
Looks like it is gonna be a 2276cc or so.
I have ford edis coil driver and coil.
Crank trigger and wheel.
Mitshubishi high impedance 320 cc injectors.
Chevy sensors.
Camero throttle bodies that I ain't too sure about. Might do something else. Wanting to use a Ford idle air valve and it is pwm instead of the chevy stepper motor. The camero bodies have the idle air on the body themselves instead of seperate.
Currently building the controller board.
I have all the code to load on the chip and the software to set it.
Just need to figure out what to set it all to.
I have done stuff like this to other motors.
But not to an old air cooled vw.
I could just do enough math and make a guess and tune from there trial and error.
Or maybe I should get some wide band o2 sensors and just make it auto tune.

O well I will figure it out as I go.
 
good luck and let us know how it turns out.

all of the sensors , computers, and wiring night mares are why I retired my wrenches to my garage and went to nursing school.
 
Changed my mind about the Camero throttle bodies. Got some big kawasaki scooter units. With the injector bosses in them. Now to make some custom intake manifolds.

2014-09-30-19-23-05_zpsikq08dhj.jpg

Got a new 86mm stroker crank. Some 5.5 inch long chevy rods. Now looking for some 92mm thick wall cylinders. So it is gonna be a 2286cc.
 
Last edited:
WOW now I really feel OLD. I recently got a '71 single carb 1600 and I ain't used all it's got to offer. But I still remember when I would have wanted one. Boy Howdy, a 1000 miles and I would've been there in the morning. Gas, tires, and tickets. Sure did enjoy it. Which is part of the reason for my disability. But it was a hoot. Boy am I feeling old.
Thanks for your time and the memories.
 
86mm forged counter weighted chevy journal stroker crank.

20141116_072836_zpsqiuv6xfx.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Chevy bottom vw top, h beam, 3/8" arp bolt, 5.5" long con rods for stroker pistons.

20141116_073530_zps0ul6rctg.jpg
 
Thanks!
I have been emailing with Pat Downs.
I am going to be hard pressed to get to my 200 hp goal because of my 4 straights exhaust. He told me without a merged 4 into one collector I will not be able to run the big cam.
Did recommend a more aggressive cam than what I have now.

I am going to study it again. Maybe now I can figure out a place to put a real header.
 
Good luck seems as though 4 into 1 riding that low with a mid engine is gonna be hard but I think if anybody can do it you will .

Now there is still the Ecotec 2.4 turbo 200 plus . :D LOL :Agree:
 
I went ahead and ordered 94mm pistons and cylinders. Also an Engle Fk10 cam.
New displacement. ........2387cc

Now to get back to working on it.
 
Sorry.

Has not been a lot going on here so I have not posted either.

I guess I will post up my scattered pile of parts.

20141202_114418_zpssotzjmw0.jpg
 
This is the upside down and backwards trans.

Normal 1 and 2.

Later style 1.26 3rd from us gear.

0.82 4th from rancho.

3.44 ring and pinion from rancho.

Welded on syncros.

Splined shafts.

Billit side plates

8 bolt carrier.

4 spider

Shortened axle

Disc brake conversion.

20141103_180235_zpsewyyy1nv.jpg

It is coming apart to check out any issues.

It has been gronking into 4th. Got to check the bearing adapter and nut at the end of the shaft by 4th. The Splined shafts are not supposed to fit a swing so it has adapters to match the different bearing sizes. My adapters leave no place for the lock tab washers. I suspect a loosened nut. I may have to tack weld the nut.

- - - Updated - - -

Drive extension.

The bearing in this runs on grease from a remote nipple.

Gotta check that too.

Feels fine from the outside.

I have not torn these down yet.

My pile is large enough already

20141103_180216_zpsimubphi4.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Building a fuel injection and ignition controller.

20141203_161802_zps7lfuos2q.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Whittling on the cases.

Making room for more bore and more stroke.

20141119_175336_zpstmc1jfwq.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Stainless steel rockers.

Did not go with the pistol shapes just did not seem to go with my style.

20141114_180821_zps8drypk9u.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Fork legs did not come out as expected.

Would not stay straight enough for me.

Here they are in the scrap bin.

20141222_164053_zpsei54jbnb.jpg

Starting over with solid bar.
 
Keep up posted Rex ,:clapping: get that thing going may have to go find Asian up in Oklahoma .:D

Already took three hands and the "pucker method" to stay with it to start with.
I call myself putting enough duration on the cam that I soften up the bottom end. So maybe just normal putt around riding it won't even be on the cam at all.
Putt around sub 3500 at an off the cam 50hp. Then twist on it and in comes the cam at 200 hp all the way to 7500rpm.
The old motor came on pretty low and was "twitchy" to ride sometimes. Fun but scary at times in traffic. I have had a few panic "get on the brake- get the front on the ground- before I run into someone" moments.
 
The 94mm Mahle cyl and piston kit.

_3_zpsw0xx4upd.jpeg

This and the 86mm crank on the other page.

2387cc.

Gonna have a lot of shim under the cyl to get deck height. Crunching the numbers I get almost a quarter inch of shim. Probably have to make a custom spacer to go with the long stroke long rod combo.
 
I am curious about the process of building a front engine VW trike. It seems I've heard it takes two tranaxles, one flipped upside down as yours is. I have old transaxles around and who knows, maybe someday I would attempt a front engine build. Looks interesting. Thanks.
 
It takes internal machine work inside the case to make it oil.

Rancho will build you an inverted. They are the only ones I know of.

I have full access to a machine shop. So it does not bother me to do heavy modifications.

The normal way to do it is to pull the ring and carrier out one side of the case and stick it in the other. All then is shimming the backlash. No machine work.

I flipped the entire trans to make mine much lower than the car would be.

If you use a full width irs you could squat it down fairly low. If you narrow it then no.

If you want to run a swing then no again.

Bad ass trike company sells frames and drive components for a normal set up.

But mine is 6 inches lower than normal.....lol

- - - Updated - - -

This is what it looked like before I took it apart.

Drain plug is 3-1/2" off the ground unloaded.

7403264354_40b7e89b09_o_zpsupwi888r_edit_1423486509220_zps13repqlc.jpg
 
Definitely one of the meanest looking trikes around. I don't have access to a machine shop so is it possible to do this without machine work? Uh oh, looks like I may be researching another project.:laugh:
 

Welcome to the Trike Talk Community

Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe

Forum statistics

Threads
55,372
Messages
788,151
Members
23,009
Latest member
TNT
Back
Top