stabilizer link

[Lakeman]

These were marine grade SS bolts (what ever the hell that is), a magnet will not pick them up. But this thing is one piece now! I used them because I had to fight to get the rusted bolts out so I said I'll go with SS so it will be easy to service the next time. Well that didn't work out, had to trash the whole grill and it was an expensive one. So I would not want to use SS in the head.
I understand about coming loose, I will check mine tomorrow.

 

[Sloufoot]

Another metel they use in marine is Monel metal. It really isn't steel, it is really expensive & tuff to work with. It work hardens really quick & is expensive! But Monel fasteners are considered non reactive with aluminum. The worst SS bolts are in the 410 class.

 

[Lakeman]

They are fairly soft but hold up well in the marine environment. I live on a big lake and after I retired I worked at a dealer here on the water selling boats. Stainless steel fasteners were a benefit.

 

[artanna30]

I had the same problem last year after hearing a squeak which i couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Turns out that the bolts stripped and had to change the head. After about 100 mile the squeak was back, so off i went back to the dealer. They re-torqued the bolts
and i hoped all was well until i heard (wait for it) that all too familiar squeak after about another 100 miles!!! Off to the dealer again!! Got it back after a week. Don't know what they did but it hasn't loosened in 1500 miles. I hope I didn't jinx myself telling this story!!!!! Good Luck

 

[Sloufoot]

I had the same problem last year after hearing a squeak which i couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Turns out that the bolts stripped and had to change the head. After about 100 mile the squeak was back, so off i went back to the dealer. They re-torqued the bolts
and i hoped all was well until i heard (wait for it) that all too familiar squeak after about another 100 miles!!! Off to the dealer again!! Got it back after a week. Don't know what they did but it hasn't loosened in 1500 miles. I hope I didn't jinx myself telling this story!!!!! Good Luck

If you get back by that shop check with them as to what they did to fix it & post it to let everyone know. This seems to be a problem with a lot of Trikes.
I'm with ya hoping it stays permanent ! :cxtv:

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Hi All,

How is this fix (Zoom Cycle) working for you?

http://www.shopzoom4parts.com/chrome-engine-stabilizer-31-1983.html

Thanks!

This is not rocket science. They have been using these on trike conversions since the 1980's.

Just like the two-wheeled counterpart, the swingarm & axle, transmission and engine when assembled are one structure. The front engine mount & the rear engine mounts allow this assembly to float in the frame. The engine stabilizers keep the engine from jumping out of the frame as well as keep the engine alignment in check.

The stresses created by the trike counterpart from making right and left turns puts a twisting strain on this assembly. The rear trike stabilizer or swaybar helps quite a bit. If you examine the rear engine mounts (under the chrome caps), you will see that they are not hollowed out like the two-wheeler. There is a nylon insert that restricts the rear transmission movement. If it wasn't there then the front stabilizers would snap off even under mild riding. The reason the bolts are sheering are because they stretch and become loose. The spring loaded stabilizer absorbs the stress and stops the bolts from stretching. When replacing the stabilizer use grade 8 bolts and torque 45-50 lbs with red loctite.

My advice is rather than worry about when your bolts are going to break, replace the stabilizer link with a spring loaded one. Issue settled.ThumbUp

 

[seabiz]

This is not rocket science. They have been using these on trike conversions since the 1980's.

Just like the two-wheeled counterpart, the swingarm & axle, transmission and engine when assembled are one structure. The front engine mount & the rear engine mounts allow this assembly to float in the frame. The engine stabilizers keep the engine from jumping out of the frame as well as keep the engine alignment in check.

The stresses created by the trike counterpart from making right and left turns puts a twisting strain on this assembly. The rear trike stabilizer or swaybar helps quite a bit. If you examine the rear engine mounts (under the chrome caps), you will see that they are not hollowed out like the two-wheeler. There is a nylon insert that restricts the rear transmission movement. If it wasn't there then the front stabilizers would snap off even under mild riding. The reason the bolts are sheering are because they stretch and become loose. The spring loaded stabilizer absorbs the stress and stops the bolts from stretching. When replacing the stabilizer use grade 8 bolts and torque 45-50 lbs with red loctite.

My advice is rather than worry about when your bolts are going to break, replace the stabilizer link with a spring loaded one. Issue settled.ThumbUp

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the reply and info. Do you have a part number for the spring loaded stabilizer the would work with the TG?

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the reply and info. Do you have a part number for the spring loaded stabilizer the would work with the TG?

When I say spring-loaded stabilizer link, I am referring to the urethane dampener type. It's just that I couldn't think of what it was called at the time of writing. I've put them in a vise and they are pretty tough.

I have these 2 in stock right now for $80.00 free shipping to lower 48 states.

 

[tbear]

When I say spring-loaded stabilizer link, I am referring to the urethane dampener type. It's just that I couldn't think of what it was called at the time of writing. I've put them in a vise and they are pretty tough.

I have these 2 in stock right now for $70.00 free shipping to lower 48 states.

would you have the PART # FOR A 2010 TRIGLIDE? and Where I can get one, please.

 

[seabiz]

When I say spring-loaded stabilizer link, I am referring to the urethane dampener type. It's just that I couldn't think of what it was called at the time of writing. I've put them in a vise and they are pretty tough. I have these 2 in stock right now for $70.00 free shipping to lower 48 states.

Okay I think I know what you are talking about...

http://www.vthunder.com/catalog/velva.pdf

Is this what you have and are speaking about?

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Yes sir............

 

[Lee H. Mann]

would you have the PART # FOR A 2010 TRIGLIDE? and Where I can get one, please.

I know that the 2009-2013 take the same one.
Velva Ride 9600-1
V-Twin 31-1983
Drag DS-243618
Comp Cams 9600-1

 

[Lee H. Mann]

 

[Sloufoot]

When I say spring-loaded stabilizer link, I am referring to the urethane dampener type. It's just that I couldn't think of what it was called at the time of writing. I've put them in a vise and they are pretty tough.

I have these 2 in stock right now for $70.00 free shipping to lower 48 states.

Are these the chrome units or the bare steel?

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Are these the chrome units or the bare steel?

I noticed in the price book, V-Twin just raised their price to $83.17.
I will have to raise mine, since I get mine from V-Twin, to $80.00 including shipping to lower 48 states.
These are chromed parts but do not use the included hardware.

 

[Sloufoot]

I noticed in the price book, V-Twin just raised their price to $83.17.
I will have to raise mine, since I get mine from V-Twin, to $80.00 including shipping to lower 48 states.
These are chromed parts but do not use the included hardware.

Check your PM's.

 

[Sloufoot]

I noticed in the price book, V-Twin just raised their price to $83.17.
I will have to raise mine, since I get mine from V-Twin, to $80.00 including shipping to lower 48 states.
These are chromed parts but do not use the included hardware.

Hay Jim, Check your "suspect email folder" Let me know.

 

[onahog]

I installed my link yesterday...
The 2 45 torx bolts were super tight..I broke a bit off in the one and end up using vise grips to get it out{frame bolt}, the other one I loosened with vise grips first and then it came out...
I ended up using an allen head bolt into the frame and a hex head bolt into the mount...
All went well once I got those tight bolts out...
I checked the 2 going into the head and couldn't budge them , so they are obviously super tight as well.
That's what I did to my trike yesterday!

 

[rhino 2]

The stabilizer link never came lose in my 11T/G but the bracket that holds the link would always come lose, I got to the point where I always carried a 9/16 box wrench with me and every now and then [5 hundred miles or so when hot] check and have to tighten the two nuts. So after using red and then blue lock tight. I tried the green lock tight' and since then it's been over 5 thousand miles and they haven't loosened.

 

[onahog]

In my View it makes sense, something has to break with the OEM link..
Its rigid, and with the powertrain twist load, some thing has to give in.
The mount that the link attatches too really isn't that strong, but due to its shape, I guess it hangs in there and the pressure goes to the 2 head bolts...and breaks them off...Anyhow, Im glad to change mine out before anything happened and Im fairly sure now that with the dampner style link I should be good to go for many yrs to come...HaNkB