mine sheared off the rt. hand bolt on my '09 t/g at 3k. was under warrenty so the dealer had to R&R the head.
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You are going to run into problems finding grade 8 stainless to go into that aluminum head. But I guess a little electrolysis might help keep them in.......ha... Might find something in aircraft bolts.
Contact Julie or Jim at Diamond. The catalog is online at Diamond Engineering. You can buy the individual bolts and coutersunk washers. I'm also using the same setup on my floorboard to frame mounts. All you need to know is the bolt length and thread pitch. They are really cool, my complete engine, trans and primary are all 12 point Raceproofs. Look under individual fasteners at the bottom of the home page. Expensive, but no rusty bolts here in Florida. Click on the blue link provided.
Fitment for that Part# is up to 2008. I don"t think that will work on the newer frame.thanks again Lee for your info, I was able to find a place where I can order the link for 76.95 , as soon as I get my trike back ,i'm going to order one these kits and replace it , looking at this ,it only makes since to use one of these links , and I don't know why Harley doesn't see this , you can bet that will spread around , once I get one and see how it works, and I won't have to disturb the bracket bolted to the engine to change it , if anyone else is interested in one , I found it at zoomcycle under Part # 31-1983
Fitment for that Part# is up to 2008. I don"t think that will work on the newer frame.
Stainless steel bolts in aluminum and heat will become one. Am I missing something here.
If you want the lowest electrolysis with aluminum you either have to go with galvanized or zinc coated bolts & nuts. If you use either 302, 303,304.or 305 stainless the corrosion of the base metal is marginally increased by the fastener. Because it is considered to be non ferrous metal.Not true, I have a gas grill that you will never get apart, stainless steel in aluminum. Absolutely a one piece boat anchor. Remember SS has steel in it.