My Trike

[DeathBySnuSnu]

That 3/4 stem is a bit odd.

Most stuff is built with the harley parts which are 1 inch and readily available in many configurations.

Back yard builds are usually whatever 2 wheeler that could be found laying around.

I would not be scared to cut the neck off it and weld in a harley style and use a harley style front end.

But then I do forget that everyone is not like me.

What resources do you have?

 

[vwbug72501]

I seem to remember somewhere in the distant past, that hydraulic forks don't work well at extreme rakes. This is because of the side loads on the tubes and lower fork assemblies. The forks tend to flex on the upper tubes rather than slide up and down. This generally leads to premature seal and internals failures due to these side loads.

Look at Captain America's forks in Easy Rider. He did more bouncing down the road than riding.

Springers have become the fork of choice for extremely raked choppers because they allow for correction of the large trail dimensions brought about by additional neck angles.

Metric bikes generally use a 7/8" dia. neck and Harley uses a 1" dia. neck. AllBalls Racing has good info and conversion bearing kits available for metric bikes. https://www.allballsracing.com

Another fork solution to consider is a leading link, or "Earles" fork. You can build one using a donor triple tree of your choice and fabricating the lower tubes and link/shock assembly to fit the trees. The leading link will allow for adjustments of trail and suspension stiffness. There was a build thread in the Homebuilt Trikes forum that covered a lot of the info. Probably easier to fabricate lower leg assemblies (smaller pieces) than a whole new front end. You can reuse your existing front wheel too!

Good Luck!

 

[grandpanystrom61]

I do not have all the right tools, but from what I can tell the 3/4" dia. stem is bent, even the main tubes have a little bend below the bottom trees, but this is what happens to forks on trikes when not the correct size for the ride. Wheelie slamming did not help the forks as it is not a lot of weight on the front end.

I do like the weight of the solid metal tube construction.

Heads up, I do agree that a Up grade on the neck is needed... Bearing cap and cups and all seem to be 7/8 for early Harley and now we have Harley using the 1" dia. stem.

Paughco INC. is 40 minutes away, have been looking over his site and work, not sure I really like the springer style he does, but need to get a professional to look over the set of Springer forks I have.......trash, fix able, or "they are great, but they have seen their day".

There is another custom chopper shop in Reno, but they did not act at all eager to chat with me or my business, just felt like they wanted big buck spenders, not a local penny pincher like me.

So I have looked around, and it does look like the better choice is to upgrade the neck tube to modern larger size. This also does allow me to look around at used forks, maybe I get lucky and find what I need, or the orginal springer forks are good to go for revamping into something useable.

The tope tree is good and flat and true, also looks like they used a set of top trees for these forks, as the lower tree has the holes drilled were the risers mount, makes for a week lower tree.

Lower tree, and stem area not looking true, at least from what I can tell, and the stem is bent, not side to side, but from rear to front, again signs of stress from the stretch and wheelie's

The trike only has a 2 1/4 inch outer dia. neck tube with now bearing cups, just feels like a little was taken out for the outer race to set in, home job, or it was how it was done back in the 70's.........upgrade time I say, but the Harley fitting fornt ends all look big and huge to me, not sure if the trike body has the room for them, and thus why the trees had a 1 11/16" offset to them, and with all that is bent when the forks are on the trike their rake angle was more than the neck's rake angle, and why it looked more than what I measured.

I did look and had thought a lot about how to use what I had, fork wise, and wondered about the leading link and large tire.

Why are all saying 21" is their desired rim size for the front end ??? I have like a 16.54" rim and with tire it has a 23" dia. so a 21" rim would be close to 27" dia with tire mounted ?

Old fork length and new tire size works the lift I wanted, but springer fork section is custom made for this little rim, that would have to go and that leads to redesigning, and the leading link style is suppose to be stable for the trike, first things first.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

The back bone is 2 3/8 dia. tubing, yet the neck tube is 2 1/4" dia.

Now would be the smarter way of doing it ?

Grind and cut and work current neck free and than clean up the back bone for the new neck ?

Or, because I will be upgrading neck size, should one cut back on the back bone a bit and actually attach a new section of pipe that has the neck tube already attached along with the foot pedal mount bracket. Just wondering what would be the better method to do this.

 

[vwbug72501]

My $.02.

This trike is probably from the 1970's. that makes it 40+ years old. It has been loved and abused, ridden hard, ridden a lot,and wrecked at least once. This has been verified by story and parts wear. Through all that history there is no obvious weld damage on the frame or stress cracking on the neck. That says a lot of good about this trike to me.

Trikes of this vintage were built by small shops looking to capitalize on the fame of Ed Roth and his customs. They didn't have the CNC driven machining, fancy plasma or laser cutters, or the computer designed frame jigs that are so prevalent today. I'm not surprised that it is a little off. I personally built one of these frames for myself in 1973 based on dimensions extrapolated from pictures and magazine articles about Roth's first trike.(Ask me how I know about sitting too low when riding to the right of a car or truck!) I build a jig to hold everything in alignment for welding, had it professionally welded, and after all the checking the main tube was slightly skewed at the bend so that the drop wasn't perpendicular to the ground! The neck was perpendicular, the wheels were dead nuts on for footprint and alignment, but the frame was skewed! Never affected the way it rode. From my experience I can see how a small shop could produce something of a lesser accuracy than the big manufacturers. It was 40 years ago!

All that being said, if it was my trike, I'd find someone (welding shop, fabricator, body shop, hobby hot rod builder, etc.) who grasps the intricacies of tweaking the frame back into alignment and go for it. So if you pull the neck into alignment by tweaking the main tube and the foot pedal bracket goes out of alignment, heat the foot pedal bracket up and tweak it into alignment. All this is covered up by the body anyway.

Cutting and re-welding the neck or main tube breaks the continuity of the main tube and can introduce a whole new set of inaccuracies. Same with the neck Too.

I'd definitely take the springer to an expert (or 2) for inspection and listen to his opinion. There might be some work hardening issues there that could be dangerous.

If the springer isn't usable, I'd look at an Earles leading link solution using a donor triple tree and custom built lower legs. Bearings can have different bores with the same outside diameter. If you take the bearing to your local bearing supply house they will probably be able to get you bearings with the same OD and a 7/8" ID to fit the metric bike triple trees. These trees can be pretty stout. The Goldwing trees that I have are 45mm downtubes. This way you can make the tubes any length to get the ride height you want.

Sorry, I think I just rambled off somewhere.........Time to take my meds!:xzqxz:

Good luck in making this trike yours.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

moving along

Good morning to everyone, well did not get all the work time I wanted to spend on the trike this last week, but I did get to work on clean up of the neck and backbone area, and learned a few things, or have an idea about the tweak.

oh, the forks will take a little time, the shop I choose is a little backed up with work, but they are suppose to be the one that can do the job, or tell me they are crap to sell me a new pair ? We will see when they call me.

Now in this pic below this piece of angle iron was formed to the back bone 2 3/8" tube, giving it that center line look on the underside, this is what I was lining up the plum bob from, and so we see it could be off a little as it twist when bent to curvature of backbone. It also stops about 4.5" from the neck tube connection. Here we have brake master cylinder bracket attached to right side.



I can not play with chemicals much, so a lot of work is down with wire wheel and than sand paper, but almost done, main thing was to see the welds and metal as clean as possible.

Now in this pic we can see the chrome foot rest assy. was attached after trike was painted blue, no blue on the welds or the chrome at the weld point on the backbone.



Now the weld was not applied to the center area of the bracket, was it hard to reach or bad area, evidence shows me they did not remove the chrome from the foot rest bracket before welding it into place. There was a exhaust U bolt used to hold it in place as it was welded.

The next pick is the underside view.



I having trouble getting up in there for a good cleaning, but it looks a little rusty, old master cylinder leakage. So the foot rest is not centered to the line on the floor, looks to be centered to foot pedals mostly, and that foot pedal bracket looks to be perpendicular to the neck and main tube, so now I wonder about this next pic.



This area is cleaned, yet you can see a line where the U bolt set, no not a rusted eaten groove by the U bolt, front edge has a higher lip than the back edge near that up right piece, a grounding post is what it is. So looking at this I feel one over heated the metal in the backbone tube trying to weld the foot rest into place, if forks were on the trike the weight could have caused the bend as all cooled, or the foot rest bracket was off and so one heated more and gave a push to one side causing the neck to go off perpendicular.



I could remove the welds and drop the foot rest bracket, now reattaching it one could cut a slot in the center and slide it onto the pedal bracket and weld it, but alignment to pedal location becomes off.

I say there is a bit of a upward swing in the backbone. A straight edge shows that there is some .



All welds look solid, a bit ugly, but solid, so as I study this I do wonder if the neck tube was welded off center on the back bone because it was off a 1/16th, but when one welded in the foot rest bracket things got tweaked at the tube as it bent upward increasing rake a few degrees maybe, but if one moved foot rest trying to align it while still hot, could have put the twist in the neck tube.

Cut line for a new neck tube assy. I have looked at some options, of course all have to be tailored to this trike, but if I cut just be hind the current neck weld on the backbone tube, clean all up, and find inner dia. of BB tube so I can find the stock needed for the insert. IF not exactly a tight fit, mill down the material to slide into the existing tube, it would be nice to get 6 inch's deep, but if tube has a bend in it, going to hard to do unless all is milled down to allow it.

Once the insert piece is good, we take and attach the new neck at the desired rake to the insert tube.

Now we slide the insert tube down inside the trikes backbone tube, align neck tube perpendicular with center line and tack weld in place, than finish weld.

This would also mean a new pedal bracket if I can not remove the old one and reuse it.

Now when we talk about heating up the back bone and tweaking it back into alignment, well I do not think it will work with the Angle iron welded on the tube giving it strength. The weak area is, I think, at the end of the angle iron just past the master cylinder bracket, a half inch more forward is the foot rest bracket, here is where and when I think things got bent/tweaked.

I know that ideally we want all to be on center and line up, but we can adjust the rear tires a little to align, forward or backward, and this is what was done in the past to compensate for things, and part of why tire wear is so off from each other.

If the forks are off and they are unable to align them, damage just to much or wrong area, which means new forks than I say cut the neck and do it up that way.

If the forks have gotten aligned and good to use, well than I think just heating and tweaking the neck back into place should work, but we have a weak area we made weaker maybe, so I say a U strap going over the front of the neck and down the side of the backbone tube welded into position would give the extra strength needed, but that means taking off the M/C mounting flange so that the leg of the U straps can go down the backbone far enough past the weak point, at least a inch or two down over the angle iron.

any input, thoughts, or questions are all welcomed. I still have a few shops to go talk to, but so far not any takers for the work, might have to be a home job, " can we do it " ?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

2-3/8 od huh.....

That probably means that it is 2 inch pipe instead of dom or other structural tubing.

Hopefully at least schedule 80 pipe.

Maybe not though with that extra angle run down it.

I would think that a bit light weight but it has been good for many years already.

So what would I do?

I would cut it off and start over like you described. Put a plug in it and weld on a new chunk of pipe. Remake the mounting brackets, neck. Ect....

But I have that kinda resource at my disposal every day.

So in the end you will have to go with what resources you have available.

I does look like it was welded by more than one person. Might have been a partially welded kit to begin with.

Ya have any welder friends with a weld truck that you could bribe into spending a couple evenings with you?

 

[grandpanystrom61]

That is what sucks, having the resources or knowing those that do. Living life with the threat of death at your door, well I spent a lot of time with the children and wife, and what ever I could do around the house.

But, since 2014 when I moved here to Fernley NV I have gotten to know a few more people. I did not find help at the Motorcycle shop that opened up in town, nice guy, but he did send me to what he calls the best welder in the area. He said he uses him on the ATV's when they get busted up. Now I just have to catch Neil in the shop so I can chat with him, was recommended for the neck job, another one said he is the only one who he allows to weld on his race car, guess that is a bit big around me and I did not know that, living in my bubble again.

Neighbor is a welder, how good not sure, but seen him put together a long flat bed trailer for his backhoe and toy's, he needs yard work, I can trade labor I am sure, LOL

Now I went to Paughco's today, and it was not a friendly deal as I hope for. Top Tech sale person just kept telling me I needed a new set of forks, would not even listen to what I was talking about, that and get a new larger front rim, but again was not listening because I was there to spend $$ on their rim, but I had to leave.

I said "screw this ****" a bit to load, thought I said it to myself as I walked out the door. I did not get in the car before a gentlemen asked if I had the set of forks with me, and I said yes. So he looked at them and talked with me. After seeing the pics he was more wondering how long this twisted neck tube was on the trike. This old biker boy came out to see the fuss and said " just put a big ass pipe down the neck tube and heat it up and bend it into position, put it back together and ride it, and if I do not like it, well go with new fork and neck tube, or "he liked the idea" convert the springer set to a leading link arm style set of forks which would allow the larger tire. I keep thinking it is only time that I have to lose if the heat and tweaking does not work, but it is time I could have spent getting it upgraded just the same, desires do stink.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

So did they say the old fork can be repaired or straightened?

If so....then it is a reasonable way to go.

Straighten the existing neck and put it back together.

Certainly will get you back in the wind sooner. Plus it may be all you can do in the garage.

 

[LarryA]

one thing I may add, that is non technical..... but is work nontheless, is hustling someone to take an interest in the neck/fork repair, and get it done. It sounds like you have rattled a few cages already. Most machine/weld shops, streetrodders, bikers/trikers are interested in something different, find the right person, you got it made.....The important thing is that you are interested yourself, your enthusiasim will help motivate someone that can help. If need be, load the trike in a trailer, and pull up to a given shop, ask for advice on how to repair, I'm sure you will get a taker soon. Good luck!

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Getting upset and pissed off does me NO good in life, seems I drove my self into a rant and a seizure at 5:50am yesterday morning, so I am a bit lost at the moment and slowly getting my thoughts together....Normally I do something stupid like use cleaning chemical sprays, or a bathroom cleaning product, none I can use with out a episode.

That maybe the trick to getting the job done Larry, I do hope I do not have to go that far to get the work done, but I guess I will do what it takes if at all possible.

Rex, not even sure what they did to look the forks over, I do remember one pointing out that the rockers are bent and they do not know how to straighten them. I simply asked why I could not make a set of new rocker's, especially if I am going to convert this set of springer forks into a set of Leading arm forks, doing this will allow me to increase tire size and get a little lift and with the leading arm design I can limit the trail in the forks to a few inch's.

Yes, it works out best for me if I can get things done here at the house, but if I have to load it up and run around looking for the one to do the job, than I guess that is what I will do.

 

[LarryA]

I forgot to mention the most important factor regarding loading the trike on a trailer the visiting the repair shops, is the fact that they can see the fork tube/neck/forks first hand.....needs no explanation...saves time for everyone. Plus the novelty of the trike will make an interesting repair for someone ....I remember at work (fixing/maintaining stamping and forming dies), we welcomed anything different to work on!

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Good day to everyone, oh that would be to easy and nice if I could do it that way.. I do not own such a vehicle for towing it around, nor do I have a flat bed trailer. I do think I can borrow my neighbors flat bed trailer f I had to, she sold me the trike, so I think she would help me out.

I just need a little luck with the shop down the street. I missed them yesterday as I was still on the recovery side. I actually can just push the trike down to them, but it hit me now.... if the flat bed trailer is solid and level enough I could just strap the trike down nice and tight, of course the center T mark on the trailer, line the trike over it, and all I need is the heat and pipe to tweak into position. Only if I had the needed vehicle for towing the trailer,,,, always a snag, but still I like the idea of the flat bed trailer as it could still work as a work plate form. Plus it is heavy enough to hold down the trike on it once alined.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

That is sorta related to how I originally built my frame.

I had a full 4ft by 10ft sheet of 3/4 thick steel that was fairly flat.

Welded the important parts to the sheet. Then fabricate all the parts in between.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

I have been working on the 4runner, has tranny issues at the moment, but if I can get it working again than I do have a two vehicle for this little job.

Now I am torn a bit, I know the neck tube is off to the left side by 1/16th of inch, but the main back bone could be offset this 1/16th of inch, but with the twist in the neck we do not know for sure.

Do we drop the foot rest bracket and cut the neck/backbone off in this area, so we can just weld back on a new neck tube and plug piece ( I figure first set neck tube and than set the plug and neck tube assembly into the backbone.

Do we drop the foot rest out of the way so we can heat up the area so that we can bend the neck tube perpendicular to the center line. This may leave the neck tube off to the left that 1/16th of an inch if the back bone was not offset. One will not know until the work is done.

Okay I decided to do it. I will drop the foot rest and remove what is in the way of the cut area, cut the backbone on a 90 degree angle just past were the angle iron stops on the back bone, near the master cylinder bracket.

I will wait a bit to see if any new ideas get posted, I just think cut/replace with new is a better way to deal with it.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Well you know me.....I tend to over-do things.....and I have the resources to do it.

IF.....you are going to get a new fork. I would cut and replace the neck. Set up the geometry I wanted and ect.

IF......you salvage and use the existing fork. 4 inches of trail ain't real bad. 1/16 off center is not real bad. You know it worked before for years. The only significant problem left is twist in the neck.

And....once you fix the old front end.....that twist might be insignificant. Your front tire track might just be close enough to get inline with the rear axle slots.

Pro new neck.

You get the fork you want.

You get the wheel you want.

You get the geometry you want. Which in your case is not a massive improvement.

Con new neck

Lots of Money

Lots of Resources

Pro old neck.

Less Money

Less resources

Can work good enough.

Gets you back together sooner.

Cons old neck.

Have to live with it out of perfect alignment.

It is not what it seems you really want.

A little stiffer to turn

A bit harder to handle backing up.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

After looking at things I feel this area just past the angle iron on the backbone were the foot rest is welded, this section is my weakest area and with the straight edge it seems to be were the off bend starts, could be me and my eyes but I do think it is off, so I will do the removal of brackets and cut the neck/backbone area off, and we will rebuild, yes it can and will be done, LOL, early morning humor......I will look at the 1" stem size and see if all will fit under the body, need to have turn radius for the fork/trees.:clapping:

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Good morning to everyone, lot's of sun shine out there this AM, so I do hope we all can get out and enjoy it.

Okay I was looking on ebay and found a neck tube assy., what I found is that it measure's out the same as what is on the trike now. I still waiting to hear back about the bearing # he uses.

https://www.ebay.com/i/152785382581?chn=ps

Okay my Timken tapered roller bearings are # 07100L and have a 1" I.D., yes I measured them. What someone did is make a spacer for the top bearing with a hex nut attached to it so the stem is centered in the bearings. The lower bearing also has a spacer, it is made a bit different, but still a spacer.

I found this to use for the new extension/neck assy.

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3505-8242-2-14-od-x-500-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx

I can have 6 inch's turned down to the backbone inner dia. (figure is near 2") so means 1/4" turned down on outer dia. so it will slide down into the backbone. The new piece is much thicker and should provide solid support.

Could I just cut out old neck tube, grind off the old weld's as much as possible, roll the neck tube so that I have the smooth surface facing the new extension tube and weld them together ???

The neck tube I have on the trike is the size I want, it is still good, just welded in wrong position, so can I use this old neck tube with the new extension tube ( welding old steal onto new steal ) does this work ?

I have limited welding experience and most of that is with new fresh aluminum, but I have tig/stick weld a few steel projects in the past.

So I can get the neck perpendicular, put old forks and body back on trike so I can run around a bit, all while I get the new set of forks made, or make them myself would be fun if I had a shop for such work. I do think a leading link arm style front end is ideal. It push's the axle forward more putting the front wheel out in front a bit more so that a larger dia. rim/tire can be used. This also might provide me all the lift I wanted in the front end and keep the fork length at the basic same length and have the larger rim/tire up front for more stable control.

:clapping:

 

[LarryA]

One option is to do the cutting out of the bad /bent steel yourself grind off old welds, do the backbone/neck alignment on the trailer, just tack up the parts "using temporary braces if needed"....then off to a good welder for the finish work. welding new steel to old, should be no problem as long as old weld material is removed. doing as much of the work as you can, saves both time and money, but most importantly gives oneself confidence to tackle most any problem.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Now is the cup for bearings, just a choice for looks, or does it really work better than the race and roller bearings, but than one still needs seal caps for the race bearing.

Part search time, if I can get what I have great, if not than I will look at the cups and cap set up for the bearings.

Have gotten the mounts cut off the top of the backbone and than the foot rest assy. I cut with the larger angle grinder and than used the dremel tool and cutting wheel to work off the rest of the weld. I always need to save money as we always have another place it is needed, LOL

I do like that fine finished look of production fork assy.'s, but you do pay for the fine finished look. Choices to be made, just like the old forks are not totally bad, not the best either, and last night my daughter hit me with my own words.

"if you are going to do the job, than plan on doing it right the first time" and with that we are rebuilding the front end and now the idea of cost is not the issue with the wife, "getting it done right " is more important.

I do "question" myself a lot when I am not sure of what I am doing, or it is the first time.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

First time for everything

I have realized that "just because we rode dirt/street bikes" well it does not mean we know all about bikes, nor does it mean one repaired a lot on the bikes.

So honestly, it is my first time ! I never had the pleasure of working on a frame, let alone the neck tube, but it has went well so far. A few update pic's to share









I have to get a bit more cut at the top side of the backbone/neck tube joint. Angle is making it hard.



I will work my way around this brace piece that is attached to the backbone and neck tube. I might not be able to get all the angles needed, or the tool to fit in the tight area, but it that is the case I can just cut the backbone tube so all is off. Testing myself on how well I can do this, remember this is the first time I have done this and it is coming along nicely I think.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

wow, not sure how those last two pics made in the reply.

I did a bit more work and got the neck off.



What is still attached should come off easy enough and I think all will grind/sand down to look good enough to re attach on the new extension piece.





Originally I thought I would cut off just at the front of the brake MC bracket, but I wonder if just going to the other side where the backbone looks more straight, yes I will have to cut thru the angle iron on the bottom a little. This should provide a nice area to join the new piece. Oh yeah the backbone is filled with buckshot, when I looked down inside the tube I seen it, must have did it for the extra weight it added ?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Well.....no turning back now.

That neck weld does not look like good weld penetration.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

The tube used for the backbone is not as thick as I thought, so less needs to be milled off the new extension piece which only leaves it stronger. My cut off area on the backbone went well considering it was all free hand work.







I remember I had taken pics with a ruler using the bracket as a stop, so I wanted to see if I could make the cut with the bracket still attached. I have to remove some welding over flow out of the inside of the tube, but all is looking good so far.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

I am still at it. I had to take care of a few things as my son is returning to NV and I had to get the RV ready for him.

I had been working on the neck and getting that lower support flange cut off with out destroying the neck tube.

A few photos of the neck tube after I cleaned it up.













I tried to rotate it and take a pic so that I could show off my work. I had a bit of welding material to grind off and than the 80 grit flapper in the grinder did help a lot to get it looking this good. Maybe I could do a little more, but it will get painted and is cover up by the body, so it will do for me.

My extension will get done soon, I had a delay in getting it to the machine shop.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Remember your plug welds.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Yes, kinda funny, that is what I had in mind " two offset plug welds" located at 2 and 3 inchs in on the 5 inch insert section.

Getting this done is taking longer than I want, as I keep getting taken off my project for family stuff, but once I get this done I can look at the forks. I can not go to big and bulky, so maybe I can get a HD narrow fork design with the 1" stem to work. It will get done.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Cheap tools, or bad eyes ?

So all going on schedule " of getting done" along with all the family stuff.I have real bad eyes, looking off center to much, or just worn out cheap tools. I should have spent the big $$ years ago and got me quality tools and not the crap I did, but at the time we do what we can dkay, the original neck tube is 2 5/16" OD and it will not work with the 2 1/4 " OD extension piece I bought, but I did get a new DOM neck tube off ebay that is exactly the size needed. I also got a set of HD tripple trees off ebay that should be here on july 3rd, and they are 39mm main tube dia. I just could not believe the prices in some shops for TT's, but that is business these days.What type of front end do I want, one that works and is stable. I am thinking the leading link arm with the two shocks down by the front wheel. I am leaning towards this style because I can use a little larger front rim to help with the axle line (rear axle height to front axle height ) should be equal if possible, at least I think so and feel the trike might have the look that all blends together nicely.

 

[LarryA]

sounds like you got the plan, got the parts coming, take your time and enjoy the job!

 

[stacebg]

neck

wish i had know earlier might have save u some labor