Anyone else?

Well I did a little googlin and yup they can take 60 amps. Now if when everything's working it can draw 60 amps then a 50 amp fuse will not support the system. I know the ecm uses the ground system. But everyting else just seems to add complexity. I'd check for parasitic draw once its all wired. Out of curiosity is there a thread somewhere that has your whole system on it. I'd just like to see how its done.
 
No not a full thread on my wiring. A lot of it is in this thread a piece at a time.

You dont think I will get there with 50 amps?
It seems to be all the motorcycle fuse panel was made for. The primary feed wire is that size. As short of a run as it is it might take a 60 amp burst but not continuous.
 
One of the higher load items is the idle air valve.
It should go offline once above idle rpm.
It is for warm up and catching a rpm dip below idle rpm. It is pwm controlled also, so probably not fla often.
The coil and fuel pump are on all the time. Would not think fla all the time, should have at least a 10% safety margin in there.

Just thinking out loud here.....

So if I blow tge 50a primary, then the only thing to do would be remove something from the fuse box. Take something simple and high load like the fuel pump and wire it's primary source seperate.
 
Well I was probably 20 pages in to this and the old ipad mini shut down. Course they don't save your place and don't see any way to get back to the middle. For some reason it takes forever to get to the reply area. It posts my pictures sideways and just shuts down for no reason. This site is no longer friendly to my device. So good luck on the project.
 
for what it's worth

Snu I can't see your system using any more than 20 a. even less.....maybe 20 amp inrush for fuel pump start up maybe 10 a. running iac a few a. inrush.. injectors depending on dutycycle couple a. a piece......now no expert here but I have a little 30 a. hitachi alternator will show 14.5 v at idle...it cannot be putting out more than 15/20 a. at idle voltage would be less than 14.5 in the current load was over 20a. iv'e got fuel pump ign. coil 4 inj. and iac... and can maintain 14.5v.. my 02c larry
 
Yeah Larry. It is hard to believe that running amps could be more than 30 amps. But still adding up all the fla it is 60 amps. I am hoping that key on inrush is below 50 amps and that I never see fla across the whole at one time.
 
The throttle cable I started soldering ends on last weekend is now finished.

The other venhille cable came in and I made up all the cables and ends/adjusters. It is as sync as can be mechanically measured. Once it run the the vacuum gauge can go on it.

20170114_103840_zpsghd2qrvm.jpg

20170114_103943_zpsygqq9vw7.jpg
 
Made up this little shim for the idle air valve.

Shimming the solenoid out to reduce air quantity at minimum point.

As the valve is for a 302 ford and mine is approximately half of that, I think I am getting it into a more tunable arrangement.

20170114_110138_zpszh3usovi.jpg

20170114_110323_zps8ubfrchn.jpg
 
Then made up this adapter flange. Did not take a process pic, but the normal cut, drill tap.

Hooked the external oil pressure control valve bypass return line back into the sump on the type 3 oil fill hole.

20170114_103855_zpslganpz1g.jpg
 
Forward progress on the wiring looks great.
Wiring is often times one of the most tedious, but critical components to any build.
Keep up the good work:clapping:
 
Really small update.

Just have not done much with it this week.

I ordered a batch of small parts and some of it is coming in. Fitting ends, brake lines, missing odd length bolts and the such. Nothing big or expensive.

Hoses finished to the fuel rail.

20170123_175842_zpsdfluviy9.jpg

20170123_175827_zpsjevdcnpi.jpg

And front brake hose.

20170123_175855_zpsn9jo1dut.jpg

20170123_175903_zps9d3luwiw.jpg
 
Gearing up for header building.

Ebay small parts coming in.

Collecting bits and bends, all 1-3/4 inch stainless steel tubing. With one of the 2-1/2 inch turn outs. Still waiting on another to show up.

Making the flange ends and such.

20170131_174513_zpsza8e4rjf.jpg

20170131_181513_zpsfuzzw9ig.jpg
 
Ok so the wife is sick and I am sitting up here at the hospital with her.

So can not work on anything, but sitting here playing with numbers.

So a few figures.

Hp based on engine details and no tuned exhaust header.

IMG_0385_zps45tsyvgb.jpg

Now if i had a truly tuned 4 into 1 merged header the VE would be higher and hp in the 220 plus range.
 
And then the trans ratio changes.

I got some gear in this thing. I do not know if enough torque to pull high gear to red line.

I suspect right after peak torque it would quit pulling 4th. So 6000 to 6500 end point for 4th? Maybe?

Screenshot_20170207-110122_zpsj6tarbs9.png
 
reply to thread

snu just a laymans quess... I would think your hp would be pretty well used up @ 120-140 mainly because of wind resistance....true your chassis is fairly narrow....don't know if you will run a fairing or not... with fairing or body work who knows where you would top out??.anyhow my 02. larry
 
correction needed

snu ... hope your wife is getting better. after thinking about top speeds I'm thinking 140 and up!! not an engineer . kinda hoping you don't try to find out!! your acceleration should be enough of a thrill. I think the most fun is 0 to 100... your trike will be show stopper for sure....can't wait to see it done larry
 
I am old I suppose.....My will of self preservation kicks in a little after 100 mph or so. I have actually made a 45 mile highway trip running with crotch rockets. They are guys half my age and like to run 100 to 105 everywhere. The old engine setup easily could hang with them. But after 45 miles of 100+ I am what is frazzled and wore out.So this thing will never see its top speed.The old little 2110 with this gearing would exceed 100 in 3rd gear. It would be pulling but less and less pull in 4th, then I quit at 125.The new engine will have more overall hp. But one of the main differences is that I have moved it hp and torque peak 1000rpm up.
 
Working on header plans.

Studying anti reversion header design.

It looks like mine is going to be a 4 into 2 split header.

With 1 and 3 paired

Then 2 and 4 paired.

So two seperate 2 cylinder headers.

I am not going to have much negative pressure in the collector. Therefore looking at special designs.

Harley header.

14726318_1444352828922140_1315763677806198784_n_zpsy9lvdhlv.jpg

And the anti reversion can. A device that makes it more difficult for exhaust to flow back during overlap.

antireversionchamber_zpskfg8tsbe.jpg
 
Well.

Spent two weeks in the hospital with the wife.

She is back home now and doing well.

So I have not worked on much. Did do some studying on header design.

It is looking like I am going to be building the anti reversion chambers for each cylinder. Maybe I can get it to tune better "off cam". Wont make much diff on peak hp though. Still working on how to get the equal lengths and collectors on it. I do have them calculated out, just where to put it all is the problem. It would be so much easier to just make up pipes that simply fit the area and not worry about being in tune.

Whittled out the reversion can from pipe. No tubing the right size.

20170218_114456_zpsvgfdlqnt.jpg

4 short pieces of odd sized tubing now.

20170218_130147_zpsu006mdfi.jpg

The collection of tubing parts grows.

20170218_130140_zpsnytcxrap.jpg
 
Looks good Rex. Does this anti reversion design allow for straight pipes as the final exhaust configuration?
We all understand that family health takes us all to the head of the line as far as projects go, for sure.
Hoping all is well w/your significant other...
 
Well there dont seem to be much real info out there detailing any of it. A lot of this is guessing combined with what is known.
The collector design is an important factor.
Mufflers are an option. Of course you know I run open pipes.
Still not certain of where the pipes will be or exit at. Right now it is looking like an open header poiting straight out from under the heads. Not real happy about how annoying that will be to drive.
 

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