Anyone else?

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Remember the pump cover from a few pages back?

Trying to finish it up. Completing the machining of the smaller details.

Drill and tap to size.

For the oil thermo switch on the fan.



So it is nearly finished.



Finished the oil port through the bolt center.



Now to seal the bolt head to hole.

I am thinking o ring. Hence the chamfer.

I may have to put a groove under the bolt head.*

I still might find one that fits the chamfer only.

 

[stinger608]

Do basically like and oring boss seal? Pretty much what your thinking!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

A custom 30mm pump and filter with the oil "out" fitting adjacent to the cooler and an "in" fitting tapped into the case adjacent to the cooler on the other side.

Steel cover, no gasket, tighter pump tolerance, no sucton leaks or airiated oil, minimum oil lines.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I dont see this working on a normal setup.*
It would have to be "full flowed".
The pump and the case holes plugged.
Then an "out" fitting cover.
And the case tapped, or possibly that oil pressure piston adapter, oil port back into the case oil galley.*

Buna N o rings are good to 220f.
These are #-037 viton o rings, good to 500f.
.062 dia in a .052 groove, .070 Wide.
.010 projection.

 

[stinger608]

I dont see this working on a normal setup.*
It would have to be "full flowed".
The pump and the case holes plugged.
Then an "out" fitting cover.
And the case tapped, or possibly that oil pressure piston adapter, oil port back into the case oil galley.*

Buna N o rings are good to 220f.
These are #-037 viton o rings, good to 500f.
.062 dia in a .052 groove, .070 Wide.
.010 projection.

Right, I knew it was a "full flow" design bro. That is what I'm using currently and have an extra pump set up the same way. I ended up using an oil bypass valve and going full flow on my trike.

Oh you are using Viton orings! Can't get any better than that for sure. Usually I have seen Viton rings in a kind of brown color. Usually don't seen them in black. Used many Viton rings in Cat high temp applications in the past.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I know you understand full flow mods.
But for everyone else reading this i wanted to be clear.

A lot of the stuff i am doing is a long string of mods to make something function the way i want it to.

Very little of mine is a one item bolt on and not for the faint of heart.

But in the end i hope to have a lot of oil flow at reasonable pressure while using thin synthetic oil.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

An idea of how much the axles are shortened.



I guess I am gonna blast and paint the end castings.

Did think of remaking them out of something prettier.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

The o rings I used on the oil pump.

All three are the same part.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I wonder just how much port i need to have to run the bigger motor?

 

[stinger608]

I wonder just how much port i need to have to run the bigger motor?

Hmm, from the looks of the picture there is going to be a bunch of porting. At least that's what it appears from the Prusion Blue impression. Unless that is an illusion from the image. Looks as though a bunch of the bottoms need to be machined to match the intake ports? Or is that aluminum color the tapering in the ports?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes I did start whittling on them.

The shiny part is where.

My template on the port.

Of course these are big valve, big d port 050 heads to start with. But they were originally designed more for a 2110 to 2180 sized engine and I am now a 2387.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Getting there.



I suppose that is big enough.

No flow bench to be able to get any data.

Not full drag only, must be driven, so it is a balance between flow for rpm and velocity for a fun torque curve.

 

[stinger608]

Yea, looking awesome bro!!!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Finished the depth and diameter for the 94's

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Robot season for the little girlie is finally over.

Her team ended up 4th in the state and not going any further. Not to bad for their first year. Not to mention her team are probably the youngest at the competition. Her team is mostly the kids from the stem schools or private schools scholastic acedamy programs. So they are jr high age kids going up against high school kids.



So anyway... back to the scooter.

As the deck height is done, now to finalize the chamber volume.

Checking cc's it is looking like 58cc might be the finished size. Gives 9.9 static cr. That would be somewhere between 7.1 and 7.2 dynamic cr.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Blasting and priming parts.









I put por 15 on the magnesium cases.

Dont Have any experience with it, but it sure seems tough.



Cutting these chrome dune buggy axle housings down to size. Don't you Just love to take brand new parts out of the box and saw them in two?

 

[peteg59]

looks good DBSS. The engine case looks clean in paint.ThumbUp
Is the POR 15 heat rated?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Por 15 does have a heat resistant paint.
This is not it though, this is also not a hot part.
The heads and cylinders will be done in something else.
I have cerakote thermal transfer ceramic for those.

 

[peteg59]

What other benefits are realized by painting the cyls & heads, (other than the obvious good looks)?

 

[stinger608]

The parts that you have blasted look amazing bro!!!!!!

Can't wait to start seeing some build pictures................Coming soon by the looks of the advancement going on.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

What other benefits are realized by painting the cyls & heads, (other than the obvious good looks)?

The benefits are real thin. As in not much.

The absolute best for thermal transfer is clean rough sandblasted metal. As long as it stays perfectly clean, no rust, corrosion, dirt, oil, it will move the heat the best.

In the real world there is no way to reasonably maintain that state. Once it leaves the pristine condition it is then no better that some alternatives.

A thin, i mean thinnnnn and no primer, coat of flat black is nearly as conductive as clean bare. You can more reasonably maintain cleanliness and touch up as needed. It is not very pretty.

Next would be a little thicker coat of colored engine paint. At this point you will have lost several percent of your cooling over clean bare. But as clean bare wont stay that way you are probably the same as dirty bare.

Then fully primed and fully painted very pretty you will have lost a large percentage of cooling.

Next is powder coated which is very insulating and can kill your cooling to the point of possible engine death.

Next is chrome and actually not just insulating but reflecting back inward.

So there is no perfect solution, especially if you want it pretty.
I hear of some thermally conducting powder coat, but know nothing about it.
I am going to try the thermal transfer ceramic coating.
It does insulate a bit, but is supposed to be better than dirty bare and close to flat black. I choose it for its cleanable finish. You ever have ceramic coated parts like headers? The dirt, oil, stains just rinse right off and the coating stays a long time.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Whittling out more bits and pieces.*

Polishing ss.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Remember all that oil port work?

That was to put more oil up the push rods.

Here is where it goes.

Oil squiters in the rockers.

 

[stinger608]

Man SnuSnu, I always loooooooooooook so forward to the updates in this thread brother!!!!!!!!! :clapping:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I will get close to that magic 200hp mark.
I might not make it all the way there without a true merged header. It will probably be a 1,3 and 2,4 split header. Not to sure I can get it over 100% VE with half the motor in each collector.
That being said, I think I will have drivable power not just peak drag race power.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Hand cutting oil passage through the rocker bushing. This connects the push rod port to the squirter hole.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Not that it has ever been a problem with the support of the input shaft. It has always been on my adapter bearing and the pilot bearing. It is not as long as this pic makes it look. It is about 17 Inches.



So with my further increase in hp I am making a mid support. Incomplete, just started this morn.



Hacked room into the case for a bearing of the style in the adapter. Also moved a bolt hole.





Fitting like this.

Still some work to do.

Bore the bearing hole, make a retainer and grease hole.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Whittled on it a little more. Made the

Bearing bore.





Some more holes in the adapter plate. *Access to the bolts for new support.*



Polished up a rocker for the front end.

Thinking the disc, caliper and stay all on one side.

Then this on the other side.