88 Blazer Trike

[LarryA]

stacebg....I would agree with that statement. The wraparound does indeed give the superior ridgidity to the leading link!

 

[Fowler]

stacebg....I would agree with that statement. The wraparound does indeed give the superior ridgidity to the leading link!

I do not think I will do the earls fork. I do think i will do the "wraparound"

Did not have time to work on it last weekend but I have no other plans for this weekend except for working on the trike.

 

[Fowler]

Did some more thinking in wood.

Will need to get my measurements better when I do it in steel

You should get the idea of what I am trying to do.

Tell me what you think of this design

Took a wooden dowel to get a straight line from the neck



Drew a line where the dowel hits the floor



drew another line 2 inches behind



The wheel is lined up here 2 inch trail



This is what i am thinking for the rockers and the joints



Zipped tied he shocks on. They are larger than I originally wanted but I do like the look.

1 thing I do like about them is I can get springs in different weights so I can go lighter or heavier one i figure out what I need

I have 1 inch clearance between the forks ad the tire.

 

[vwbug72501]

What about moving the top spring mounts forward from down tube until they are parallel to the down tubes? Just a matter of aesthetics IMHO.

 

[Fowler]

What about moving the top spring mounts forward from down tube until they are parallel to the down tubes? Just a matter of aesthetics IMHO.

yep that sound like a good idea and would make it look better

 

[LarryA]

just a question....what angle will your rockers be when full load is on your front end? Just my opinion, I like them tilted upward slightly at the forward end. Also what material will you use for the bail....or wraparound, as some may call it? I just used the same mtl. as the rockers. But it can twist, so I wish I had used round tubing like Stacybg used on his front.

 

[Fowler]

just a question....what angle will your rockers be when full load is on your front end? Just my opinion, I like them tilted upward slightly at the forward end. Also what material will you use for the bail....or wraparound, as some may call it? I just used the same mtl. as the rockers. But it can twist, so I wish I had used round tubing like Stacybg used on his front.

I know the rockers are angled down in the wood mock up but I was planning to make them level.

Why point them upward? Does this help with something or is it just for looks?

For the rockers and the wraparound I am taking a some of the same 2" square tubing I built the frame with and I am building the folks with. Cut it down the center then welding a back plate to it. SO when I am done I will have a 1" X 2" tube and it will be very strong

On the down tubs I plan to cut 1" out of the center at the bottom then reinforce each side. This will be where the rockers will be inserted

What I don't know is what I will use at that connections yet. Do I use brass bushings? Just leave it Steal?

On my other trike I have bearings but I have been told that is not needed.

 

[Fowler]

I would think that you would have better luck with a new hole saw, slow speed, and lots of lubricant. Less likely to grab a flute and launch your piece. If the 3/4 holes in the 2" tubing are for pivots, axle, etc. consider using a sleeve to provide more load bearing surface. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Tubi...R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0|0

With this you could just drill 1" holes in the tubing, align the bushings, and weld in place. This process could compensate for any "drift" in the drilling process.

I got the steel tubing in and just ordered a 1" hole saw

 

[LarryA]

I've got the rockers pointing upward (front) about 30/40 deg from horiz thinking, that when the wheel goes up, there will be a straighter push on the link rods.

regarding bushings.....use bronze, brass doesn't wear as good, or use some ptfe lined bushings or delrin/teflon/rulon, types of bushings would work.....I'm using both bronze and plastic types.....easy to change out when needed my widths of bushings are maybe a little narrow, and may wear more quickly but I have xtras on hand.

Others may have better/different ideas regarding the bushing business?

Shoulder bolts are nice....ground o.d. makes a good bearing journal.

Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out!

 

[stacebg]

i think you will find a nicer ride if you start with the pivot point about an inch below the axle

 

[Fowler]

OK I will plan on having the pivot point lower as you guys suggested

I just received my 1" hole saw in today It came real quick

I'm debating if I want to make the forks wider. I have 1 inch clearance between the tire and the side of the fork but I have to mount my shocks a little off center of the rockers and down tubes to keep that 1 inch clearance

If I decide to go wider it will delay things. I have the money to buy more plate steel but don't have the time to go get it.

Im sucking up to the Ol'Lady now in case I need her to go get it

 

[Fowler]

Just ordered more plate steel

Talked the Ol'Lady into picking it up Thursday.

 

[stacebg]

OK I will plan on having the pivot point lower as you guys suggested

I just received my 1" hole saw in today It came real quick

I'm debating if I want to make the forks wider. I have 1 inch clearance between the tire and the side of the fork but I have to mount my shocks a little off center of the rockers and down tubes to keep that 1 inch clearance

If I decide to go wider it will delay things. I have the money to buy more plate steel but don't have the time to go get it.

Im sucking up to the Ol'Lady now in case I need her to go get it

didnt notice what u got the hole saw for but.. it will not make a very tight tolerance hole... it will be quite a bit over

 

[Fowler]

didnt notice what u got the hole saw for but.. it will not make a very tight tolerance hole... it will be quite a bit over

Well that sucks...

I was planning to use it for the neck stem holes in the upper and lower plate and the hold in the rockers for the axle. The axle is 3/4 but I am using a 1" spacer that reduces it down to 3/4"

I will have some extra plate steel and will drill a test hold in it first

Question???

what lubricant should I use when drilling these hole?

I need to be able to get something from the local hardware store, Lowes, Ace someplace like that

 

[Jack Klarich]

I need to be able to get something from the local hardware store, Lowes, Ace someplace like that

I use 3 in one or Marvel Mystery oil for drilling steel

 

[stacebg]

Well that sucks...

I was planning to use it for the neck stem holes in the upper and lower plate and the hold in the rockers for the axle. The axle is 3/4 but I am using a 1" spacer that reduces it down to 3/4"

I will have some extra plate steel and will drill a test hold in it first

Question???

what lubricant should I use when drilling these hole?

I need to be able to get something from the local hardware store, Lowes, Ace someplace like that

not much chance of that being a good fit... even a good drill will drill over.. best bet is a 31/32 drill an a 1" reamer esp for the rocker

 

[LarryA]

have never used a hole saw for drilling thick steel.....but would agree with stacebg that even with a pilot the 1 in. hole saw will wander enough to be oversize. can you find a local machine shop or weld shop that could plasma or waterjet those holes? or even drill undersize and ream to size. or worse case, buy a drill bit and adjustable reamer on e-bay, I see a lot of crichley adjustable reamers sets fairly cheap. I have drilled a lot of 3/4 to 1 in holes on my 1/2 inch drill press......also have drilled many holes with an old post drill fasted to the garage wall .....they had a rachet power feed that worked well...of course you cranked by hand. with a slow turning bit and heavy feed pressure I have drilled thru leaf springs on occasion.

 

[Fowler]

OK so I need to order a new drill bit

Should I use a drill bit or hole saw?

You stated a 31/32 just want to be sore that is correct before I order it.

any other suggestions before I order?

 

[LarryA]

Bob if you drill or hole saw...you will need to ream the hole to get it straight and round. If the drill bit is sharpened correctly, a 31/32 hole should clean up with a 1 in. reamer. That is why you drill a sample hole in a piece of scrap steel. if in doubt use a 15/16 bit. The reamer will pull harder with the smaller bit of course. with an adjustable reamer you can increase hole size in steps. Working 1n. holes will require a drill press that turns slowly. the adjustable reamers are to be turned by hand.....the chucking reamers are used in a drill press turning slowly with plenty of oil....cutting oil preferred, but engine oil works, not as well, but I don't like the smell of hot motor oil... For 4 drilled and reamed holes farming out to a machine shop may be cheaper? Others may have ideas or suggestions. Good luck on this project.

 

[Fowler]

but getting time to take it to a machine shop is not easy.

I just looked at my hole saw. It is not actually 1 inch. It is 25mm (from Japan)

I just picked up some cutting oil from Ace hardware I am going to try it tomorrow on some scrap 1/4 plate

If that does not work I will buy a 31/32 drill bit

 

[Fowler]

so what am I looking for in a drill bit

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr....X31/32+dr.TRS0&_nkw=31/32+drill+bit&_sacat=0

 

[LarryA]

ya the 14 dollar one should work. I usually drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the thickness of the drill web......that is the width across the point of the drill bit. It helps the drill feed easier. A larger pilot hole can sometimes let the bit wander and chatter. experiment on a scrap piece. The new bit should drill close to on size. At work we sometimes needed a larger hole than the bit had available, so we would hand sharpen the bit, grinding uneven cutting edge lengths, to make it drill slightly oversize.....not always successful!

 

[Fowler]

hole saw test

here are the results of my hole saw test

 

[LarryA]

seems like a pretty good fit!

 

[stacebg]

here are the results of my hole saw test

View attachment 60405

View attachment 60406

looks good... i am surprised

 

[vwbug72501]

Oh Yea of little faith.... I've had good luck with hole saws on projects like this. Some caveats: Slow speed and plenty of lube/coolant. Subsequent holes may not be as pretty or precise. A second hole saw is always a good investment......You'll use it again sometime anyway.

As for drill bits.....MADE IN USA!!!! My experience with Made in China is that they aren't worth the blisterpack they come in.

These guys are pricey but their stuff is good! https://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bits/=1e7nixt

Again, you'll use it again sometime.

Prepare for the Apocalypse. Collect tools. The man you can fix things won't starve!:clapping:

 

[Fowler]

Started by drilling a pilot hole through both plates



Had to take it down to 1 plate at a time because it would not go through both

Also it started clogging up I had to clean it a lot



It went through 1 plate at a time fine just had to clean and oil it often



on the trike. The stem bolt fit real well but it is to long. I will have to get 3/4 inch more thread cut in it



Once I am finished making it I will have to figure out something for bearing seals. We had talked about this in the past and you all had some good ideas



Next weekend I will work on it more. I have to start painting a room now. (promised the Ol'Lady)

 

[vwbug72501]

Nice work Bob. Will cutting longer threads on a grade 8 bolt be possible ? Will it mess up the integrity of the grade 8 hardness? I thought that the bolts were manufactured and then hardened to grade 8 specs including the thread areas.

Maybe wait until you add the thicknesses of the bearing seal solution and then split the difference and add welded on spacers to the top and bottom tree outside surfaces. That would give you a little more load bearing surface area on the neck bolt.

 

[LarryA]

Bob ....you have made me a believer in hole saws! That's true Tom.....maybe seal cups and sleeves will eat up some of the excess bolt length. I do think, the cutting of additional threads would definitley reduce the grade 8 factor, but the bolt would still have plenty of strength. the tension on the bolt would be only a few ft/lbs at the most, and the shear strength of the bolt would be much more than the fork assembly could stand without bending or breaking....just my .02.