88 Blazer Trike

[LarryA]

Bob snap a centerline on the floor from the rear to the front of the frame, plus 5' more. Use a plumb bob dropped from the front centerline of the frame. mark the floor, then, repeat for the rear of the frame, then extend that line toward where the front wheel will be. I would double check that the frame is level before checking neck measurements

good advise from the guy's... agree side to side isn't so fussy, but should be perpendicular for looks, if nothing else.

if you use a dowel or shaft make sure you rotate it to check for runout. Rotate for max distance to the left of your chalk line then mark the floor. rotate for max distance to the right, then, mark the floor.......the true center is halfway between the marks, anyhow this is what i did, worked for me......good luck!

 

[vwbug72501]

Bob

Laser pointer doesn't have to be accurate, just relative. Set up a point on the floor generated by the dowel mounted pointer. Then as you weld, any movement in the dowel will show up as dot movement on the floor. Just another way to keep track of what's happening while you weld up the neck. Less chances of surprises when you're done!

 

[Fowler]

I have 2 questions. So look below the picture for the 2nd question

1.

I have measured from every angle I can.

All my measurements show the same thing

my neck is 1/8 off center to the right on top and 1/8 off center to the left on the bottom

See picture representation below

So if I move it by 1/16 of an inch it should be straight/perpendicular

BUT

Is it worth doing this? Its only 1/16 of a inch.

I'm afraid I will screw it up and not get it as close again.



2.

the neck is 7 inches long

I am using 1 inch bearings

any suggestions on a neck stem?

 

[vwbug72501]

I think I'd say good enough for Government work at this point. You might be able to draw it over a little with welding heat during the welding process. Hence the laser pointer suggestion.

As for the stem maybe you could use a fine thread grade 8 bolt for the neck stem. Make sure it is long enough to get the bearing surfaces on the unthreaded part of the bolt. Or you could use something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-Harley-...vidson&hash=item590663e354:g:SV4AAOSwSKtaaedV

This triple tree uses 41mm tubes. Not sure if this is big enough diameter for your application. Also don't know the neck length. Like most of us you've got more time than money but sometimes its easier to buy the hammer than build it. You already have a HD front wheel.

Great build so far. Keep up the good work.

 

[LarryA]

Bob, if you are measuring from the top and bottom of the 7 in. neck....1/8 in. in 7 in. is a lot of angle projected to the floor!......if you are only off center 1/8, but perpendicular to the floor then, no big deal. I would project thru the neck to the centerline on the floor using electrical conduit with concentric washers or freeze plugs bored out to fit the pipe. Even clamping a piece of straight angle iron, say 1x1 or 1.5x1.5x 3or 4ft, long to the side of the neck will allow you to eyeball for perpendicularity. just my 02 Larry

 

[Fowler]

Bob, if you are measuring from the top and bottom of the 7 in. neck....1/8 in. in 7 in. is a lot of angle projected to the floor!......if you are only off center 1/8, but perpendicular to the floor then, no big deal. I would project thru the neck to the centerline on the floor using electrical conduit with concentric washers or freeze plugs bored out to fit the pipe. Even clamping a piece of straight angle iron, say 1x1 or 1.5x1.5x 3or 4ft, long to the side of the neck will allow you to eyeball for perpendicularity. just my 02 Larry

Actually I have a 12 inch square sitting on top and center of the neck and I have been measuring from the top and bottom of that so the 1/8 is over 12 inches.

I do understand what you are saying. I will find a way to extend it to the floor and measure how far it is off

 

[Fowler]

As for the stem maybe you could use a fine thread grade 8 bolt for the neck stem. Make sure it is long enough to get the bearing surfaces on the unthreaded part of the bolt. .

I think this would be best if i could find one.

 

[Fowler]

Am I correct?

If its off by 1/8 inch then I need to move it 1/16 inch (half the distance)

1/16 for every 12 inches

I measured from the top of my square on the neck to the floor at at 35 degree angle.

It measured 56 inches (it would actually be a little less because the square extends above the neck)

56 inches divided by 12 = 4.6666

1/16 inch = .0625

4.6666 x .0625=0.2916625

At the ground it would need to move 0.2916625 inch (a little more than 1/4 inch)

If that is correct I think I will leave it and maybe try to adjust some with the axle

My last 2 trikes I just eyeballed with a few measurement but nothing like I am doing this time. They both road straight. in fact I still ride 1 and it is fine

 

[Fowler]

I just ordered a 1" grade 8 bolt, nut and washers.

 

[LarryA]

If i am understanding correctly ,it looks like you should tack the neck tube 3.5in. (halfway down) from the top on left side, fairly heavy tack. then, a very light tack on right side. grind off all other tacks but these 2, then pivot neck on the heavy tack using heat if needed on this tack.....let right tack break, it will be a reference if neck breaks off. according to your figures top of neck should pivot to right ,062 measured 6 in, above the left tack. the bottom of the neck should have swung left the same amount . hope this makes sense???

 

[Fowler]

If i am understanding correctly ,it looks like you should tack the neck tube 3.5in. (halfway down) from the top on left side, fairly heavy tack. then, a very light tack on right side. grind off all other tacks but these 2, then pivot neck on the heavy tack using heat if needed on this tack.....let right tack break, it will be a reference if neck breaks off. according to your figures top of neck should pivot to right ,062 measured 6 in, above the left tack. the bottom of the neck should have swung left the same amount . hope this makes sense???

So its Friday night beer and boxing.

to many beers and not enough boxing

I have more beer and another boxer coming

Cant understand what you are saying (See line 2)

will read again later

Have to leave Sunday night for NJ for business

Not a lot of time this weekend

Thanks for your input. I value it along with others

 

[LarryA]

correction needed

Bob...my intention was to see the neck tube rotated with its center remaining in the same place. it should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to even up the measurements you have listed. I was rotating in the wrong direction in my last post!! However I am still somewhat unsure of this type of measuring, (could be wrong)....I meant to use the angle iron as a (reverse v-block) by holding the v of the angle iron against the tube....then rotating the iron and marking the arc of the iron near the floor.....the highest point of the arc should be the center of the neck tube. now I have not tried this.....the angle iron or channel would have to be straight and true, maybe an aluminum extrusion of angle or channel would be more accurate. just suggesting an alternate method to double check that alignment.

 

[rrunner]

I have used that neck from eBay on two of my trikes, a vw, and the v8. Works real good. They can even press in the races if you ask them.

 

[Fowler]

Bob...my intention was to see the neck tube rotated with its center remaining in the same place. it should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to even up the measurements you have listed. I was rotating in the wrong direction in my last post!! However I am still somewhat unsure of this type of measuring, (could be wrong)....I meant to use the angle iron as a (reverse v-block) by holding the v of the angle iron against the tube....then rotating the iron and marking the arc of the iron near the floor.....the highest point of the arc should be the center of the neck tube. now I have not tried this.....the angle iron or channel would have to be straight and true, maybe an aluminum extrusion of angle or channel would be more accurate. just suggesting an alternate method to double check that alignment.

I understand.

I will be out of town so this will have to wait until next weekend.

 

[Fowler]

I have not had time to work on it since my last post.

My new job pays well but takes up a lot of my time.

And this weekend I have to work on my other Trike and my Sons truck

Then there's the honey due list

 

[Fowler]

I purchased a 1" grade 8 bolt for the stem.

Have not had any time to do any work though.

I hoping next weekend I will

 

[vwbug72501]

Fowler......Fowler.....Fowler.......

What's been happening?

 

[LarryA]

same here!

 

[Fowler]

Im Back

Sorry for being away for so long

Life happens!!

At first I was out of work so had to conserve on money then i got a good paying job again and have not had the time.

Now I can see the light at the end of the log tunnel. By the end of the month I should be down to working normal 5 days a week and 8 hours a day (with some exceptions and a 45 minute drive each way to work and back)

I'm off today but have to work this Saturday

I was looking at the trike again

I think I figured out how to get the neck angle correct. By my measurements the bottom is to the right by 1/8 inch

I will send pics.

I also think I figured out how to shorten the wheel base by about 12 inches but I need to concentrate on the front end first. The front end will not change no matter if I shorten the trike of not

I am thinking of ordering a grade 8 bolt for the front axle. I can get something like one of these.

I know 14 inches seems kind of long but the threads are 2 or 2 1/2 inches long them self. I will have to cut the threads back some

https://www.fastenal.com/products?r...~ ~|sattr04:^3/4"-10$|~ ~|sattr04:^3/4"-16$|~

Next weekend I should have completely off. So I plan to straighten the neck and if I have the axle bolt in I will start the fabrication of the front end. I will share my ideas for that latter

Well I'm glad to be back

I will try to post often

 

[vwbug72501]

 

[Fowler]

I chased that stupid bubble back and forth but in the end it is center

Before





After

 

[Fowler]

 

[LarryA]

welcome back Bob.....good to see your back at it!!:clapping:

 

[Fowler]

So what do you think about a 3/4 grade 8 bolt for the front Axle?

Now the front shocks.

I was thinking something like one of these

https://www.denniskirk.com/emgo/bla...0NpCh1YcgNdEAQYAiABEgKUiPD_BwE&ad=45713337637

or

https://www.jbugs.com/product/9570....MI-qPpwfCc3AIVB9bACh2Gjg6zEAQYBCABEgLk6_D_BwE

 

[vwbug72501]

Don't know about spring rates on these. Have you measured the weight on the front end? I would think that you would need weight and expected suspension travel specs before selecting units. Maybe research how to calculate spring rate?

 

[Fowler]

OK I forgot about spring rate

I was told by someone a while back that the the VW coil shocks have a 100lb spring rate

I will be mounting them on a 35 degree angle so that would be 114lbs per inch

I will have 2 of them so that would be 228lbs first inch, 456 inch for the 2nd inch and so on

I have the V6 engine up front so the front will be heavy. I need to weigh the front.

So I need to steal the Ol'Ladys scale

The last time I did that I broke it

 

[LarryA]

there is another factor to consider. the shock placement on the "rocker/ bail with respect to the distance from the axle centerline to the pivot point of the fork tubes. This distance will be tied to shock travel also. I would recommend the heaviest rear shocks....would also consider air, or a hydraulic cyl with a remote accumulator? then mock up temporary rockers, and experiment with engine in place. I made a fixture of 2x4's to hold the wheel and tire upright, then could measure and mark axle c/l and for trail. I used 3/8x 2in flat bar to make my temporary links.

 

[vwbug72501]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15419-DIY-cross-weight-weigh-and-balance-the-car Post#7.

Don't break the wife's scale! "Happy wife, happy life!"

 

[LarryA]

this a.m. looking at speedway race catalog.....tremendous selection of chrome coil-over springs $46.00 ea. rates from 80-600# plus hardware to support them. all kinds of afco shocks etc.

I'm thinking your design would not have great front end weight changes from fuel and passenger loads, maybe no need for air assist.

 

[Fowler]

yesterday I placed a bid on a set of Qa1 coil over shocks.

they have a 175lb spring rate

But the auction is not up until Friday.

Tomorrow I will order my grade 8 3/4 bolt

I have 3/4" and 1" drill bits but those are big holes to drill through thick steel.

I will need to drill 2, 1" holes through 1/2 plate and a number of 3/4" holes through through 2" thick wall square tubing

I have a drill press but not the greatest on

any suggestions