- Admin
- #31
Based on the pics I've seen, you have the stock trees on your trike.
2006 Motortrike VTX1800 is my next ride....
- Thread starter Volkemon
- Start date
Based on the pics I've seen, you have the stock trees on your trike.
- Thread starter
- #32
THANKS for the advice!
Might just do that... see what Papa Zook says. According to his calibrated eyeball, I have no rake now. I will do a more thorough inspection of the parts when I get home, but I saw no ID marks anywhere when i did the polishing.
* and with the rake, I should be able to mount the horn where I want up front. Dont want to be in the 'line of fire' for that beast!
Got good news on the footboards. I LOVE the ones on there, and they are in pretty good shape. BUT... evidently no longer made. Thanks to Ebay, I found some. In Sweden. They are on their way. He has 7 more sets, $50 plus $50 handling for 1 pair, $10 more in handling for any more. All 3 sets were $220 total.
I need 3 more covers for my project, so I got 3 more sets. 1 set for the passenger, 1 set for the single I need for the assist step, and one set to replace the ones I have on there. They look good now, but I know next to new ones they will show age. So everybody gets new! :clapping
I feel like Oprah!! ) and one spare I will hide away with the two used ones in the 'trike stash'. In case anyone else has these floorboard covers:
(7021 - Küryakyn Floorboard Covers For Honda VTX 1300 & 1800 '03-07)
There are 7 pair left. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293278533912 Guy is a great communicator, and ships quick. Expected here next monday! FROM SWEDEN!! :xzqxz:
(other 2 listings were $140 for 2, and $150 + shipping for 2... I got a helluva deal at $220 for 6 IMO!)
The bases are still available from Honda, got 2 left and one right coming with the pins and springs. I will have to make the mounts, no biggie. Gonna look great! About $300 for the 3 bases, pins and springs. So ~$525 total for all. Little more in total than if I went and got 3 sets of aftermarket matching floorboard kits, but not much more! Plus, I really like the ones on there.
Same dealer that is getting the floorboard bases is getting the driveshaft from Motortrikes, and selling me the front u joint. Dont have final pricing on them.. will post when I know. HOPEFULLY then the big spending slows down...for now.. and we enjoy the trike during the Florida winter! :yahoo:
3W-lonerider
One of the Originals
if your thinking about just replacing the stock honda u-joint. i would highly try to talk you out of it. the new drive shaft and u-joint that motortrike has put together is so much better than stock.
the new ujoint and shaft combo will remove the elliptical issue that the stock system had.
i found that the old honda joint coupled with a motor trike drive shaft would run in an elliptical motion because the ujoint was farther away from the back of the engine.
the new shaft puts the front ujoint closer to the rear of the trans and it runs true and alot smoother without vibration.
the new ujoint and shaft combo will remove the elliptical issue that the stock system had.
i found that the old honda joint coupled with a motor trike drive shaft would run in an elliptical motion because the ujoint was farther away from the back of the engine.
the new shaft puts the front ujoint closer to the rear of the trans and it runs true and alot smoother without vibration.
- Thread starter
- #34
Oh CRAP.
Are you referring to a VTX 1800 driveshaft?!? I was under the distinct impression that all Motortrike supplied was the rear half of the spline and shaft to connect to the ford 7.5 rear end. The front piece from Honda attaches to the transmission output and contains the front 1/2 of the spline and the front u joint.I was in communication with Motortrike via messages on facebook, and they are the ones who gave me the part number I ordered. Also informed me I would need the stock Honda front U to complete it.
Are you sure you are not talking about the new 'green' driveshaft for goldwings?
If not I am in for some returns. The Stealer...oOps...Dealer marked the shaft from Motortrike $55 over the retail price I was quoted from MT, added $17.50 for special handling too.
Oh CRAP.
I was in communication with Motortrike via messages on facebook, and they are the ones who gave me the part number I ordered. Also informed me I would need the stock Honda front U to complete it.
Are you sure you are not talking about the new 'green' driveshaft for goldwings?
If not I am in for some returns. The Stealer...oOps...Dealer marked the shaft from Motortrike $55 over the retail price I was quoted from MT, added $17.50 for special handling too.
The up dated drive shaft is painted green and has a special made spline so it can't be installed wrong and get it out of balance. I installed the new one on my Valkyrie. Just look under yours and see if it is painted green. I would call Motortrike and talk with them about the up dated drive shaft. I guess they build one for the VTX.
David
- Thread starter
- #36
A quick web search makes me think your bike and goldwings share a driveshaft? https://mjtrikes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=235
If there is a new one for VTX's, they are keeping it a secret from me!
Interesting you mention ""and has a special made spline so it can't be installed wrong and get it out of balance"".... :xzqxz: enlightenment is using backup troops today!
Cause earlier....... I searched the forum for motortrike driveshaft. Found a thread that may have an answer for me... some previous wrench put the driveshaft together out of phase. This would cause vibration. Under it now to remove, re phase, replace and test... will report back. DARE I hope......
ray:A quick web search makes me think your bike and goldwings share a driveshaft? https://mjtrikes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=235
If there is a new one for VTX's, they are keeping it a secret from me!
Interesting you mention ""and has a special made spline so it can't be installed wrong and get it out of balance"".... :xzqxz: enlightenment is using backup troops today!
Cause earlier....... I searched the forum for motortrike driveshaft. Found a thread that may have an answer for me... some previous wrench put the driveshaft together out of phase. This would cause vibration. Under it now to remove, re phase, replace and test... will report back. DARE I hope......
I talked with Motortrike and had a question about my trike and asked about the VTX up date drive shaft. They do not make one for the VTX. So you would use the shaft from Motor Trike and OEM u joint. Just make sure you line them up correct. Not hard to line up as long as you know what to look at.
David
- Thread starter
- #38
Putting the driveshaft in phase turned it from
eyeball shaking vibration
to
Smoooooth to 85.
Bit of a task getting it out, The spring loads it up quite a bit. I used a small visegrip to hold it compressed, and installed in phase. We just came back from the ride.
Also installed the 51mm exhaust baffles. Still has a really nice sound, but no 'snap crackle' on deceleration, and the low end performance is noticeably smoother.
What a day.
And found there is a smiley limit. LOL. ""You have included a total of 39 images in your message. The maximum number that you may include is 16. Please correct the problem and then continue again."" Fixed that too.
- Thread starter
- #39
Ok, pictures.
In the blurry foreground, the bottom U joint cap is part of the shaft. On the other end, you can see its 'mate' is off by a few teeth.
Shaft out, and everything is covered in moly grease. Underneath also, I got pretty dirty. But everything is tight and feels great.
EDIT - you can see the 51mm inserts in the pipes. VERY happy with the sound and performance. Have to get header wrap to tighten the fit a bit.
I locked the spring down after compressing it with the adjustable on top. Worked great!
Little bit of play in the rear end, and might drop that next summer during the hot and rainy. But for now we are on the road in style. Could not be happier.
Gonna keep the new parts as spares. We had wanted to keep this ride for years. Its a LOT brighter possibility now. :clapping:
In the blurry foreground, the bottom U joint cap is part of the shaft. On the other end, you can see its 'mate' is off by a few teeth.
Shaft out, and everything is covered in moly grease. Underneath also, I got pretty dirty. But everything is tight and feels great.
EDIT - you can see the 51mm inserts in the pipes. VERY happy with the sound and performance. Have to get header wrap to tighten the fit a bit.
I locked the spring down after compressing it with the adjustable on top. Worked great!
Little bit of play in the rear end, and might drop that next summer during the hot and rainy. But for now we are on the road in style. Could not be happier.
Gonna keep the new parts as spares. We had wanted to keep this ride for years. Its a LOT brighter possibility now. :clapping:
Some play in the rear end is normal. Also check your hemi joints and lube them. There is a free download on the Goldwing kit and it is the same as ours. There are 2 joints that you should be able to move with your fingers. If not those will need adjusting. Good job on finding the joint miss aligned.
David
- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks Warlock!
I found the manual download, will be reading it all later when NOT at work... well.. read some already...
Following the progress of my parts coming in. I am SO much more comfortable planning and working on the trike with the vibration problem solved. I was having night sweats thinking about putting on the new driveshaft... and still having the issue persist. :gah:
On Tuesday I ordered running board covers from Sweden. They are in Germany now, and slated to arrive by UPS Monday. :clapping:
On Tuesday I also stopped by the Honda dealer, and ordered my motortrike and Honda parts. I was told all were in stock, YAAAY! and will be here next Wednesday. Two days after the parts come from Sweden. :xzqxz: M'ok!
And now that Mrs V has experienced the ride as it SHOULD be on the trike, got the 'OK' to get the rake kit. :clap:
I found the manual download, will be reading it all later when NOT at work... well.. read some already...
Following the progress of my parts coming in. I am SO much more comfortable planning and working on the trike with the vibration problem solved. I was having night sweats thinking about putting on the new driveshaft... and still having the issue persist. :gah:
On Tuesday I ordered running board covers from Sweden. They are in Germany now, and slated to arrive by UPS Monday. :clapping:
On Tuesday I also stopped by the Honda dealer, and ordered my motortrike and Honda parts. I was told all were in stock, YAAAY! and will be here next Wednesday. Two days after the parts come from Sweden. :xzqxz: M'ok!
And now that Mrs V has experienced the ride as it SHOULD be on the trike, got the 'OK' to get the rake kit. :clap:
Rather than clamping vice grips onto the machined splines, might I suggest you slide the front U-joint onto the drive shaft in proper phase of course, then loop a long piece of wire through the saddle portions of the front and rear U-joint yokes, compress the spring by pushing the front U-joint on as far as you can …. then a few twists of the wire to secure it. Return the drive shaft to the trike, then after it's in place, just snip the wire. A heavy duty zip tie works too, as does strong poly chord like used for cloths lines, etc. Good cotton chord will work too, just don't forget to cut & remove whatever you use. No chance then of damaging the splines.
Good way to keep any spare shafts together for use too, just wrap rear U-joint with a few wraps of electrical tape, etc. I cleaned my spare well, and painted some parts, and tied it together, and pre-lubed the splines (moly), etc …, and then used plastic to wrap just in case I have it laying in the trailer some day and maybe clothing comes in contact. The box is a spare part too, but trike has a new one in it and the one on the shaft is near like new too.
- Thread starter
- #43
Good points!
I did see that in the manual, but no worries. It seemed to be a lot more work than I wanted to do.
The picture angle doesn't show it well, but the vice grips are below the splines. Loose enough to rotate on the shaft, but tight enough not to slip over the splines.I carefully adjusted them to fit there before putting the spring on.
Then slip the spring on,then LOOSELY holding the grips on the shaft, I used the adjustable wrench for a large area to push down on. Then when the vice grips were at the proper place, squeeze and lock. The vice grips were loose enough on the shaft that I was able to install the front U joint on the tranny, then rotate the shaft to the proper orientation and slide it into the front joint. Vice grips stayed in the open area to the right of the output shaft. Release the grips, and done.
Was planning on storing the new parts in big ziplocks using the boxes they come in. Maybe take them and 'bless' them with a quick spray of WD40 before repacking and storing.
Not sure if the new shaft is going to come with U joint or not. The rear U joint is an 'off the shelf' item, unlike the Motortrike made part, so i am anticipating it will not come with as to reduce the cost to the manufacturer.
While it was out, I looked briefly at how the shaft was made. I have buddies that do machining, and I am 99% sure they can duplicate that part for FAR less than the $400 it cost me. I will bring the new one to them with a few beers and see what they say. :drinks: The VTX has not been made for 11 years, and I could understand that part entering 'obsolete' status due to lack of demand. Or worse yet, Motortrikes disappears. Time marches on, the only constant is change.
I did see that in the manual, but no worries. It seemed to be a lot more work than I wanted to do.
The picture angle doesn't show it well, but the vice grips are below the splines. Loose enough to rotate on the shaft, but tight enough not to slip over the splines.I carefully adjusted them to fit there before putting the spring on.
Then slip the spring on,then LOOSELY holding the grips on the shaft, I used the adjustable wrench for a large area to push down on. Then when the vice grips were at the proper place, squeeze and lock. The vice grips were loose enough on the shaft that I was able to install the front U joint on the tranny, then rotate the shaft to the proper orientation and slide it into the front joint. Vice grips stayed in the open area to the right of the output shaft. Release the grips, and done.
Was planning on storing the new parts in big ziplocks using the boxes they come in. Maybe take them and 'bless' them with a quick spray of WD40 before repacking and storing.
Not sure if the new shaft is going to come with U joint or not. The rear U joint is an 'off the shelf' item, unlike the Motortrike made part, so i am anticipating it will not come with as to reduce the cost to the manufacturer.
While it was out, I looked briefly at how the shaft was made. I have buddies that do machining, and I am 99% sure they can duplicate that part for FAR less than the $400 it cost me. I will bring the new one to them with a few beers and see what they say. :drinks: The VTX has not been made for 11 years, and I could understand that part entering 'obsolete' status due to lack of demand. Or worse yet, Motortrikes disappears.
Time marches on, the only constant is change.
When I had my VTX 1300, I mounted the Stebel horn on the left frame above the shifter, and it worked great.
- Thread starter
- #45
Cool! That was a spot I looked at for the chrome one. Did the back look OK?
Another idea was getting the black one, and mounting it in front of the radiator after I install the rake kit. Nearer the top, spaced out a bit.
Good deal.
Might be a good idea to make sure it fits before storage. That rear U-joint on mine is standard Moog 430 also known as a "big cap Ford" series 1310 U-joint (two bearing caps are larger OD to better withstand deforming by overtightened rear U-joint caps).
Not sure what yours will take. When you get it, be a good time to find out what yours is & maybe pick one up if not included, they are cheap enough.
Good luck, take care, enjoy the "Glee on Three".
- Thread starter
- #48
Might be a good idea to make sure it fits before storage.
Not sure what yours will take. When you get it, be a good time to find out what yours is & maybe pick one up if not included, they are cheap enough.
Good luck, take care, enjoy the "Glee on Three".
WOW! Thats some good advice there. Will do. You may have saved 'future me' a load of trouble.
Glee on Three. LOVE THAT!! :clapping:
- Thread starter
- #49
Beautiful Sunny Florida Winter Sunday, 50's to start. :clapping: Going for a ride later, polishing the aluminum wheels now.
LOTS of black rags. But they do shine underneath. I used to have a buffing wheel on an arm back in the day for doing VW rims... missing it now!
Using Mother's polish, thank you WalMart. Forgot to get some at the parts store.
The footboard covers came FRIDAY. Four days from Sweden to Florida. :xzqxz: Amazing. UPS shows us how it is done.
They are NOS in excellent shape.
Back to polishing!
LOTS of black rags. But they do shine underneath. I used to have a buffing wheel on an arm back in the day for doing VW rims... missing it now!
Using Mother's polish, thank you WalMart. Forgot to get some at the parts store.
The footboard covers came FRIDAY. Four days from Sweden to Florida. :xzqxz: Amazing. UPS shows us how it is done.
They are NOS in excellent shape.
Back to polishing!
- Thread starter
- #50
Out forum crawling, found this link for the service manual VTX 1800.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByDcF2tmcH9VWVdlcTdjQ3FqQUE/view
Downloadable without watermark. :clap:
Enjoy.
another thing to read - https://www.dropbox.com/s/77h5seef6yvotfk/MTServiceManual.pdf?dl=0
Page 3-10 is what I was looking for. Adjust valve lash. I know that sound. We had a great ride today. Trike back in sealed chamber. :clapping:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByDcF2tmcH9VWVdlcTdjQ3FqQUE/view
Downloadable without watermark. :clap:
Enjoy.
another thing to read - https://www.dropbox.com/s/77h5seef6yvotfk/MTServiceManual.pdf?dl=0
Page 3-10 is what I was looking for. Adjust valve lash. I know that sound. We had a great ride today. Trike back in sealed chamber. :clapping:
- Thread starter
- #51
Well, yesterdays ride did have one 'slight pucker' moment.
I know I have to replace the rear brake cylinders. Like a MORON, I have been more worried about my go power and show power, and not my WHOA power. :blush: I am an idiot, and have chastised customers for doing the same thing.
I am getting back cylinders for the brakes today. The trailing shoe is working, but the leading shoe is not. So I am not getting any of the rotational assist on the trailing. They work, but I cant lock them up.
A problem I found was one of the 'features' of this bike. Thee are 3 pistons in each front caliper. The two large ones are activated by hand when you activate the front brakes. The two small ones are activated by the rear brake pedal. I guess that's accounting for all the people that ride and never use the front brake - by making it mandatory. M'ok.
My issue with that was when I already had the front brakes on the edge of lockup using the front brake cylinder. Then when I was pressing on the back brakes the extra pressure locks up the front before the back brakes really started to work. SO happy I was on three wheels... not two. MRs V handled it very
SO.. seriously debating disconnecting the feed to the front brake from the rear master cyl. With sidecars, I always was hard on the front brake. I use it first every time. Anyone ever do this?
I probably should start a new thread on it, instead of hiding it 4 pages down in this one.
But really - DON'T be a moron like I was in your excitement to get the trike looking fine and riding fine... if there is ANY issue with the brakes, fix them first. I am fortunate that I was able to experiment with a good runout area in case of failure. If a truck had pulled out... I would have been fooked.
I know I have to replace the rear brake cylinders. Like a MORON, I have been more worried about my go power and show power, and not my WHOA power. :blush: I am an idiot, and have chastised customers for doing the same thing.
I am getting back cylinders for the brakes today. The trailing shoe is working, but the leading shoe is not. So I am not getting any of the rotational assist on the trailing. They work, but I cant lock them up.
A problem I found was one of the 'features' of this bike. Thee are 3 pistons in each front caliper. The two large ones are activated by hand when you activate the front brakes. The two small ones are activated by the rear brake pedal. I guess that's accounting for all the people that ride and never use the front brake - by making it mandatory. M'ok.
My issue with that was when I already had the front brakes on the edge of lockup using the front brake cylinder. Then when I was pressing on the back brakes the extra pressure locks up the front before the back brakes really started to work. SO happy I was on three wheels... not two. MRs V handled it very
SO.. seriously debating disconnecting the feed to the front brake from the rear master cyl. With sidecars, I always was hard on the front brake. I use it first every time. Anyone ever do this?
I probably should start a new thread on it, instead of hiding it 4 pages down in this one.
But really - DON'T be a moron like I was in your excitement to get the trike looking fine and riding fine... if there is ANY issue with the brakes, fix them first. I am fortunate that I was able to experiment with a good runout area in case of failure. If a truck had pulled out... I would have been fooked.
- Thread starter
- #52
OK, I did start a new thread for the brakes. Worked out well!
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thr...-brake-circuit-Rear-Brake-job-Quickstop-shoes
The choice ended up keeping the linked brakes, and changing MY braking habits. Mo bettah. :clapping: The brakes work better than i could have hoped, honestly.
Gonna try to move back to this thread for further bike mods. Like rear tires, valve adj, etc etc.
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thr...-brake-circuit-Rear-Brake-job-Quickstop-shoes
The choice ended up keeping the linked brakes, and changing MY braking habits. Mo bettah. :clapping: The brakes work better than i could have hoped, honestly.
Gonna try to move back to this thread for further bike mods.
Like rear tires, valve adj, etc etc.- Thread starter
- #53
Got an AWESOME cover for my trike. Fits like it was made for it. Its for a Harley, but close enough!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037IWZV...xkJBSy8sQoerGW6X68-fFD0Ol3N2rNF2FI-BAu_LsNVxE
***
My trike, naked in the elements. There is a bird circling.... :gah:
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Lucky I have junk in the trunk.
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Lay it out on the seat, the inside is exposed.
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The white part on the front goes over the windshield. Kicka** elastic band around the bottom. Zipper to the back center. The front tire has a seam to mark it also.
Pretty quick and easy on.
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Fits like it was tailored. There were 2 bungee hooks on it, but they are less than worthless. Catch on everything. Dont need them for now, may build hooks onto the trike.
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Put it on in the trailer. The zipper in the back allows for trunk access without taking the cover off.
Now even if the roof vent or AC lets water in, I am covered. :good:
Also gonna be great at work. DUSTY lot.
You can see the water spot on the lens in the last pic, and the raindrops in the pond in the one before that. Did the pics, then it poured. Timing... :clapping:
Wish we were riding...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037IWZV...xkJBSy8sQoerGW6X68-fFD0Ol3N2rNF2FI-BAu_LsNVxE
***
My trike, naked in the elements. There is a bird circling.... :gah:
______________________________________________________________
Lucky I have junk in the trunk.
_____________________________________________________________
Lay it out on the seat, the inside is exposed.
______________________________________________________________
The white part on the front goes over the windshield. Kicka** elastic band around the bottom. Zipper to the back center. The front tire has a seam to mark it also.
Pretty quick and easy on.
______________________________________________________________
Fits like it was tailored. There were 2 bungee hooks on it, but they are less than worthless. Catch on everything. Dont need them for now, may build hooks onto the trike.
_________________________________________________________________
Put it on in the trailer. The zipper in the back allows for trunk access without taking the cover off.
Now even if the roof vent or AC lets water in, I am covered. :good:
Also gonna be great at work. DUSTY lot.
You can see the water spot on the lens in the last pic, and the raindrops in the pond in the one before that. Did the pics, then it poured. Timing... :clapping:
Wish we were riding...
- Thread starter
- #54
Been TOO long. Loving playing with the trike. :clap:AND Mrs V loves it. :clap:
Getting different back tires. Estimated delivery by new years. The way Amazon has been, prolly here by friday. Been getting packages 4-7 days early!
Look like they are brothers to the Avon up front.
225/45r15. 23inches tall, and run on the wider side.
Original 225/60R15 BF G's will be saved. They were 25.6 inches tall.
The engine will turn 12% faster with these tires.
I am liking a 'lower' gear, I dont like the feel in 5th. I use 4th for top gear. Sometimes wanting 5th, but usually not for long. The engine turns 25% faster in 4th than 5th.
Hope the tire size 'splits the difference' effectively and I can use 5th more.
Shouldnt look too small in the fender, they are 1.5 inches shorter on the sidewall, and that would put the tread height even with the vertical edge of the fender.
They are pretty cheap to experiment with. :clapping: Tires less than $200/pair delivered, estimating $50 for R/R and balance.
https://www.amazon.com/225-45ZR15-8...ral+595+rs-rr+225/45r15&qid=1577058870&sr=8-1
Be REALLY cool to see a braking increase... certainly should with sticky race tires. They are DOT legal.
There is a the complaint they are NOISY. Like ALL CAPS NOISY. On cars... I would be somewhat tickled if the tread noise was louder than my exhaust on the trike. We will see!
Getting different back tires. Estimated delivery by new years. The way Amazon has been, prolly here by friday. Been getting packages 4-7 days early!
Look like they are brothers to the Avon up front.
225/45r15. 23inches tall, and run on the wider side.
Original 225/60R15 BF G's will be saved. They were 25.6 inches tall.
The engine will turn 12% faster with these tires.
I am liking a 'lower' gear, I dont like the feel in 5th. I use 4th for top gear. Sometimes wanting 5th, but usually not for long. The engine turns 25% faster in 4th than 5th.
Hope the tire size 'splits the difference' effectively and I can use 5th more.
Shouldnt look too small in the fender, they are 1.5 inches shorter on the sidewall, and that would put the tread height even with the vertical edge of the fender.
They are pretty cheap to experiment with. :clapping: Tires less than $200/pair delivered, estimating $50 for R/R and balance.
https://www.amazon.com/225-45ZR15-8...ral+595+rs-rr+225/45r15&qid=1577058870&sr=8-1
Be REALLY cool to see a braking increase... certainly should with sticky race tires. They are DOT legal.
There is a the complaint they are NOISY. Like ALL CAPS NOISY. On cars... I would be somewhat tickled if the tread noise was louder than my exhaust on the trike. We will see!
- Thread starter
- #55
Got more parts in! The Motortrike driveshaft came with EVERYTHING needed. :good: Great service.
One thing bothers me... The front u joint has four possible ways to go on. Using the 'eye gauge' it looks like none of them line up correctly. :xzqxz: One is close, I am going to set things up on a flat surface to check correctly.
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Got the two left side steps, the right is coming...someday. Should see if my Swede buddies have one. :laugh: The chrome footboard covers are from them, and look great. Pins and springs from Honda. Tried to get all part numbers visible for those that follow.
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It was raining, so I was working in the trailer. The rear footboard is just balanced there for the photo. Making proper brackets soon. Mrs V LOVES the look.
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Left Side. Once again, just propped up for the pic. The ratchet, and bright green glass were close at hand. Glass was perfect height.
Going to make sure the lowest step is 'inboard' of the others, and allows me to reverse by foot. It is still about the same distance out as the exhaust on the right side. But it will be a WELCOME addition for me and Mrs V when mounting the trike.
Higher than the frame rails, I am gonna use the original side stand bosses to mount it.
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Took the motorcycle endorsement class and passed 100%. Going tomorrow to get the licence updated. The penalty down here went up to 1) impounded bike and 2) $500 fine for riding without... got my respect. :xzqxz: Used to be a 'fix-it' ticket and ride home. Then again, it didnt used to be a $200 class over 3 days. That cuts into my 'mod' money..
One thing bothers me... The front u joint has four possible ways to go on. Using the 'eye gauge' it looks like none of them line up correctly. :xzqxz: One is close, I am going to set things up on a flat surface to check correctly.
______________________________________________
Got the two left side steps, the right is coming...someday. Should see if my Swede buddies have one. :laugh: The chrome footboard covers are from them, and look great. Pins and springs from Honda. Tried to get all part numbers visible for those that follow.
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It was raining, so I was working in the trailer. The rear footboard is just balanced there for the photo. Making proper brackets soon. Mrs V LOVES the look.
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Left Side. Once again, just propped up for the pic. The ratchet, and bright green glass were close at hand. Glass was perfect height.
Going to make sure the lowest step is 'inboard' of the others, and allows me to reverse by foot. It is still about the same distance out as the exhaust on the right side. But it will be a WELCOME addition for me and Mrs V when mounting the trike.
Higher than the frame rails, I am gonna use the original side stand bosses to mount it.
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Took the motorcycle endorsement class and passed 100%. Going tomorrow to get the licence updated. The penalty down here went up to 1) impounded bike and 2) $500 fine for riding without... got my respect. :xzqxz: Used to be a 'fix-it' ticket and ride home. Then again, it didnt used to be a $200 class over 3 days. That cuts into my 'mod' money..
- Thread starter
- #56
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
LEGAL AGAIN
LEGAL AGAIN
Got my licence updated. Feels about the same as the first time. :clapping:
The tires came! I was betting friday... Amazon is kicking a**. They were 'expected' the 31st.
They look great. The rain grooves are the width of my index finger.
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Deflated they are the same width as the originals inflated..... :good:
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Definitely shorter. 23" vs 25.5".
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Trying to show the height difference better. The new tire height is between the ledge/transition at the edge of the block tread and the next 'inner' ledge/transition. It will look different, for sure. The wheelwells were overstuffed before, so i am hoping for a decent look and a final drive reduction.
Put the new driveshaft on the bench, and one fitment of the front u-joint/driveshaft does have a 'perfect' alignment. I could see someone replacing the part and having the shaft out of phase if they didn't know to check. I will have pics up when I replace it. Tires first, they are going to be mounted and balanced tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #57
Tires are on, unfortunately we have had DAYS of rain... I am a little reluctant to run down our muddy dirt road to get to pavement. Country life... love it.
At first, I panicked. HUGE gap between the top of the tire and fender. Then when I figured out I had left the airbags at 80psi from when I jacked it up...:xzqxz:
I put them down to 20psi and it settled a couple inches. WHEW. Looks more modern now, for lack of a better term. Less of the 'stuffed wheelwells' look. Try to get pics if we get a break in the *&%*&%^ rain. Dec 28....rainy and 75*. :gah:
Got my vanity tag coming. REALLY wanted 'GLEEON3' but bikes only get 6 digits. RTRIKE was in the running, but this is our winner:
:clapping: Be here in 6-8 weeks. Thats a pic of the printout they give to confirm.
Keeping an eye on the radar for clear spots. I will go SLOW through the mud.
At first, I panicked. HUGE gap between the top of the tire and fender. Then when I figured out I had left the airbags at 80psi from when I jacked it up...:xzqxz:
I put them down to 20psi and it settled a couple inches. WHEW. Looks more modern now, for lack of a better term. Less of the 'stuffed wheelwells' look. Try to get pics if we get a break in the *&%*&%^ rain. Dec 28....rainy and 75*. :gah:
Got my vanity tag coming. REALLY wanted 'GLEEON3' but bikes only get 6 digits.
RTRIKE was in the running, but this is our winner::clapping: Be here in 6-8 weeks. Thats a pic of the printout they give to confirm.
Keeping an eye on the radar for clear spots. I will go SLOW through the mud.
- Thread starter
- #58
We got a break in the weather. :clapping:
The tires look great. Went to my buddies place that saw it last week, he did not notice the height difference, just the cool tread.
Neat tracks in the sand, both front and back.
back
front
The roads are wet, so hard to directly compare braking. They 'come on' a lot more linear, there is a lot more warning before it locks up. Feels like they are stopping as hard as the others on dry pavement. Thats the 'butt dyno' and not measured, FWIW.
When you run over gravel, it does pick it up. Even on damp roads. VERY sticky tires.
I did deliberately hit a couple puddles with the rears. Smaller puddles - 18" dia, 1"(?) deep. 40mph. NO forward splash. Not a noticeable throw out to the side, either. Very happy with that.
They are smoother at speed. The others had a bit of out of round to them.
Balanced easily, one small weight on the inside.
Surprisingly, both weighed about the same - new tires 24.8 pounds, old ones 25.5.
I like the gearing now, I can creep around at idle. 6-7mph maybe. Not parade slow, but thats OK!
Have to wait for dry weather. For today, gonna pull it in and replace the driveshaft.
Have to back off the adjusters left 3 right 2 notches. It drags just a skosh, thought it would wear in. . not when you arc sand the shoes, evidently. Left wheel locks just before right every time.
The tires look great. Went to my buddies place that saw it last week, he did not notice the height difference, just the cool tread.
Neat tracks in the sand, both front and back.
back
front
The roads are wet, so hard to directly compare braking. They 'come on' a lot more linear, there is a lot more warning before it locks up. Feels like they are stopping as hard as the others on dry pavement. Thats the 'butt dyno' and not measured, FWIW.
When you run over gravel, it does pick it up. Even on damp roads. VERY sticky tires.
I did deliberately hit a couple puddles with the rears. Smaller puddles - 18" dia, 1"(?) deep. 40mph. NO forward splash. Not a noticeable throw out to the side, either. Very happy with that.
They are smoother at speed. The others had a bit of out of round to them.
Balanced easily, one small weight on the inside.
Surprisingly, both weighed about the same - new tires 24.8 pounds, old ones 25.5.
I like the gearing now, I can creep around at idle. 6-7mph maybe. Not parade slow, but thats OK!
Have to wait for dry weather. For today, gonna pull it in and replace the driveshaft.
Have to back off the adjusters left 3 right 2 notches. It drags just a skosh, thought it would wear in. . not when you arc sand the shoes, evidently. Left wheel locks just before right every time.
VTX 1800
I have one and speed is what ever you can handle I have been 100 + and still goingorag:
Had 2 bikes with sidecars, 79 CB750 with a 1974 sidestrider car, and a 1997 Goldwing with a daytona 2+2. Now looking at a 2006 VTX1800 Motortrike. Gonna try having the back wheels lined up. :clapping:
Went for a first look today. Pretty good for the age, minor paint issues, shiny bits shiny. When I put the rear brake on, via the foot pedal, it stuck on. Pedal travel normal, like the master was good, but was not wanting to move. Had to help push it back in. After fixing it, Seller told me it was a mis adjusted shoe and 'drum brakes are tricky' :xzqxz: Yeah... as an air cooled VW restorer, I know drum brakes WELL!
I had a bit of 'Parking Brake?!?' hope in the first moments... Nope. But being that Mrs V was with, cut the visit short and let the seller 'fix' things. 1:30 PM
He called back at 3pm. Told him i was still in, and see him tomorrow.
So, going to do a 'due diligence' inspection tomorrow. Have gloves, light and back wheels off. Give her the complete underbelly look.
Todays peek under it looked like the rear end cover had been pulled. Might have been oily, or fresh black paint. Is this a narrowed car rear end? Solid axle.
The VTX1800 has 18K miles, don't know when the conversion happened. Will get DOT date off tires tomorrow FWIW.
The original VTX owners manual is with itepper: and a bible. Do the rear drums use the stock VTX master cylinder? Going to consult the OM for all fluid check points.
Any tips on checking radiator fluid? Heck...cooling system?
Any other items should look at with extra attention??
A bit of web snooping I found a coil shock/air shock suspension is likely, OR a combination. There was a 'thing that looked like a switch with the toggle broken off' that the seller thought turned on the 'custom' led lights. It bled pressurized air... will know more tomorrow.
More snooping told me of a proportional braking system that applied front and rear brakes together... not sure if it applies to this model. I would bet the brake fluid was last flushed at the trike conversion, if ever... see what it looks like tomorrow.
My test drive today was around the warehouse complex in first. Bike seemed to idle a bit high, but very smooth. Fuel Injected, so good possibility it was not warmed up. Not much of a drive.
Guy probably has open title on the bike, and uptight about any road test. Gonna work that through. Need to have it 'at speed'. What top speed should I expect? My morning commute is normally 75-85 mph, and 90 is a fine top end with me. NOT going to do a top speed test tomorrow, just curious.
Well, thats about all the questions that come to mind... for now. Excited about this, and hoping to get some advice from those more experienced.
Oh yeah... $$... Seller asking $8500. That's in our budget. Again, web searches led to comparable results.. usually higher. THANKS!
Will be checking back early AM my time.[/QUOTE]
I have one and speed is what ever you can handle I have been 100 + and still going
orag: Had 2 bikes with sidecars, 79 CB750 with a 1974 sidestrider car, and a 1997 Goldwing with a daytona 2+2. Now looking at a 2006 VTX1800 Motortrike. Gonna try having the back wheels lined up. :clapping:
Went for a first look today. Pretty good for the age, minor paint issues, shiny bits shiny. When I put the rear brake on, via the foot pedal, it stuck on. Pedal travel normal, like the master was good, but was not wanting to move. Had to help push it back in. After fixing it, Seller told me it was a mis adjusted shoe and 'drum brakes are tricky' :xzqxz: Yeah... as an air cooled VW restorer, I know drum brakes WELL!
I had a bit of 'Parking Brake?!?' hope in the first moments...
Nope. But being that Mrs V was with, cut the visit short and let the seller 'fix' things. 1:30 PM He called back at 3pm. Told him i was still in, and see him tomorrow.
So, going to do a 'due diligence' inspection tomorrow. Have gloves, light and back wheels off. Give her the complete underbelly look.
Todays peek under it looked like the rear end cover had been pulled. Might have been oily, or fresh black paint. Is this a narrowed car rear end? Solid axle.
The VTX1800 has 18K miles, don't know when the conversion happened. Will get DOT date off tires tomorrow FWIW.
The original VTX owners manual is with it
epper: and a bible. Do the rear drums use the stock VTX master cylinder? Going to consult the OM for all fluid check points. Any tips on checking radiator fluid? Heck...cooling system?
Any other items should look at with extra attention??
A bit of web snooping I found a coil shock/air shock suspension is likely, OR a combination. There was a 'thing that looked like a switch with the toggle broken off' that the seller thought turned on the 'custom' led lights. It bled pressurized air... will know more tomorrow.
More snooping told me of a proportional braking system that applied front and rear brakes together... not sure if it applies to this model. I would bet the brake fluid was last flushed at the trike conversion, if ever... see what it looks like tomorrow.
My test drive today was around the warehouse complex in first. Bike seemed to idle a bit high, but very smooth. Fuel Injected, so good possibility it was not warmed up. Not much of a drive.
Guy probably has open title on the bike, and uptight about any road test. Gonna work that through. Need to have it 'at speed'. What top speed should I expect? My morning commute is normally 75-85 mph, and 90 is a fine top end with me. NOT going to do a top speed test tomorrow, just curious.
Well, thats about all the questions that come to mind... for now. Excited about this, and hoping to get some advice from those more experienced.
Oh yeah... $$... Seller asking $8500. That's in our budget. Again, web searches led to comparable results.. usually higher. THANKS!
Will be checking back early AM my time.[/QUOTE]
- Thread starter
- #60
I have one and speed is what ever you can handle I have been 100 + and still going
Yeah, with the new tires and driveshaft i took it up to an indicated 120, guessing actual 105? Plenty fast. Got there quick too. :clapping:
Then took Mrs V for a ride...and ran out of gas. :gah: Evidently the 'low gas' light doesn't work. About 150 miles on a tank, and was hammering it 'testing'. Short walk, 1 gal gas and a $11 can got us going. Going to top it off every hundred now until I know her better.
Unfortunately.... still have a vibration. Not sure if its a feature or character. Or a defect. Never had a V twin, much less 2 900cc jugs. CB750 and 1500 GW were silky smooth power.
Vibrates when under power throttle, neutral or decel throttle is much smoother.
Clutch in smooths it out, and revving the motor with the clutch in is smooth.
Was really hoping the driveshaft would help, but honestly the new had as much observed play as the old. The biggest gain this whole time was indexing it correctly. The replacement with new was ~$600 for some great spare parts.
The Harleys and one Suzuki V twins I have ridden have had enough vibration I didnt like it, so things might be OK and normal. I am used to Honda smooth, and was hoping they would have a smooth V.
I still want to do a valve adjustment, but thats a tank off project per the service manual. New battery going in the same time.
The rear wheel bearings are suspect now also. On jackstands with the wheels hanging in the air, wheels spin easily. NO drag. I backed off the adjusters a bit anyway. When I did lower the trike, it rolled with a bit of resistance. Also will stop on a slight incline and not roll back freely. Worn/wrong/??? bearings would cause the drum and backing plate to change center-line(s) to cause drag also. Someone has been in there, and maybe the same 'tech' that mis-indexed the driveshaft. :xzqxz: Be worth checking.
Gonna ride it in to work tomorrow. Short day, and weather looks good.
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