Order the DK 14" Pro Action trike shocks with the comfort lift. Don't know when it will be installed (plenty of winter left here and no heat). Looking for a much improved ride next spring!
What did you do to Your Tri-Glide Today?
- Thread starter DK Custom Products
- Start date
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,262
Yeah, mine has been needing repair for a broken tab for quite a while. Tried to get it covered under warranty...they never denied it, just kept giving more hoops to jump thru. Finally decided it would just be easier to repair it than to keep dancing with them.
I tried to disconnect it without removing the outer...I could get my fingers on it, but it is clipped to that white plastic and I just could not make it happen. 7 fasteners and 10 minutes later the outer was off. Much easier than it was on the older models.
I believe you are going to be very pleasantly surprised at the improvement!
Kevin
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,263
After riding near 150 miles with no fender yesterday, I rode in this morning to the shop...
...it started raining a bit ago. Even if it stops before I leave, it is not warm enough for the roads to dry out. Should be interesting to see what happens with no front fender on the wet roads!
I do have my tall winter windshield installed, so it should all go over me....Not on me.
Tomorrow we do the repair on the mounting tab, then paint & let it dry. Next week it should be back on the TG.
Photo's forthcoming on welding it while it is mostly submerged in a tub of water. :laugh:
Kevin
...it started raining a bit ago. Even if it stops before I leave, it is not warm enough for the roads to dry out. Should be interesting to see what happens with no front fender on the wet roads!
I do have my tall winter windshield installed, so it should all go over me....Not on me.
Tomorrow we do the repair on the mounting tab, then paint & let it dry. Next week it should be back on the TG.
Photo's forthcoming on welding it while it is mostly submerged in a tub of water. :laugh:
Kevin
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,264
A while back one of the four fender tabs on my TG front fender broke.
Yesterday we went about fixing it.
Relatively clean break-
We've done repairs on painted items a few times over the years, we'll be welding that tab back on while the majority of the fender is submerged in water, and wrapped with wet towels.
First we need to prep the areas that will be welded-
Next up is positioning it in a tub of water so that the water level comes up to right below the point where the welding will take place-
Getting wet towels wrapped around all parts of the fender that are not submerged-
We do not want any slag or HEAT hitting any area that is not the tab....it will damage/cause the paint to bubble.
The tab is mostly hidden, and painted black from the factory, so that will be easy enough to put back to looking stock. But if any part of the paint on the actual fender is damage...well, that would not be good.
The threads on the nut on the tab need to retain their integrity, so we use some anti-seize on a threaded "handle" that goes into the tab threads. Not only to keep the threads intact, but to give a way to hold the tab while welding it into place.
Tacking it in place...
...making sure it is straight before proceeding.
It was slow going, so as not to build up any heat transfer to the painted fender.
Yes, that is steam coming from the water, right below where it is being welded.
WhooHoo! No paint bubbled anywhere...even on the tab closest to the fender.
We cleaned it up, primer, and then some gloss black.
Letting it cure over the weekend. Will put some clear on it next week...then it goes back on the forks!
Kevin
Yesterday we went about fixing it.
Relatively clean break-
We've done repairs on painted items a few times over the years, we'll be welding that tab back on while the majority of the fender is submerged in water, and wrapped with wet towels.
First we need to prep the areas that will be welded-
Next up is positioning it in a tub of water so that the water level comes up to right below the point where the welding will take place-
Getting wet towels wrapped around all parts of the fender that are not submerged-
We do not want any slag or HEAT hitting any area that is not the tab....it will damage/cause the paint to bubble.
The tab is mostly hidden, and painted black from the factory, so that will be easy enough to put back to looking stock. But if any part of the paint on the actual fender is damage...well, that would not be good.
The threads on the nut on the tab need to retain their integrity, so we use some anti-seize on a threaded "handle" that goes into the tab threads. Not only to keep the threads intact, but to give a way to hold the tab while welding it into place.
Tacking it in place...
...making sure it is straight before proceeding.
It was slow going, so as not to build up any heat transfer to the painted fender.
Yes, that is steam coming from the water, right below where it is being welded.
WhooHoo! No paint bubbled anywhere...even on the tab closest to the fender.
We cleaned it up, primer, and then some gloss black.
Letting it cure over the weekend. Will put some clear on it next week...then it goes back on the forks!
Kevin
On my 11 Tri, The fender tabs didn't brake but where they connected to the fender they were all rusted out, Including the fender its self...And the paint was bubbling up... I would think that when the dealer resold the Trike he had to put a new fender on...:Shrug:
A while back one of the four fender tabs on my TG front fender broke.
Next up is positioning it in a tub of water so that the water level comes up to right below the point where the welding will take place-
Getting wet towels wrapped around all parts of the fender that are not submerged-
We do not want any slag or HEAT hitting any area that is not the tab....it will damage/cause the paint to bubble.
Tacking it in place...
...making sure it is straight before proceeding.
It was slow going, so as not to build up any heat transfer to the painted fender.
Yes, that is steam coming from the water, right below where it is being welded.
WhooHoo! No paint bubbled anywhere...even on the tab closest to the fender.
We cleaned it up, primer, and then some gloss black.
Letting it cure over the weekend. Will put some clear on it next week...then it goes back on the forks!
Kevin
Rereading this thread, It reminded me when i was working [18 Years ago] When ever i had to weld right next to precious stones Emeralds /Rubies/Sapphires And next to Diamonds when welding Platinum ...I would coat the stones with a paste called Cool Heat.....Never damaged a stone, Or the surrounding area....But i was using oxygen, I don't know if that would work with Ark Welding...:Shrug:
Ray55
850+ Posts
I left it at a shop to get repaired. I left it about 75 miles from my house hopefully it will get repaired on Tuesday. Shop closed Sunday and Monday. I ad ridden about a hundred miles out into the desert and was stopped at a traffic light when I felt something on my right foot. I looked down and there was anti-freeze, water and steam coming from the right radiator area running down the inside of the lower. Luckily I was about 4 miles from a dealer so I limped to the shop. Supposed to call me on Tuesday for an update.
Stage 1
Completed my stage 1 upgrade.. Installed Vance / Hines "Trike" custom pipes along side the previously installed DKCustom Naked Air Filter w/ Oil Breather Can, and FP-3. WOW ... what a difference ... :clapping:
Completed my stage 1 upgrade.. Installed Vance / Hines "Trike" custom pipes along side the previously installed DKCustom Naked Air Filter w/ Oil Breather Can, and FP-3. WOW ... what a difference ... :clapping:
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,269
Yeah, rust is a bummer. I have a few tiny little bubbles in the paint on one of my two wheel bikes. It is not coming from the underside of the fender...the painter must not have prepped the metal well before painting.
I just did a google search of that paste. Interesting stuff...what I saw showed good up to 5000*F
We're mig welding with a 75% argon 25% carbon dioxide gas mix....temps well exceed the 5000*F mark, so probably would not work.
We might give it a go on something, just for grins and giggles.
Cool!
Kevin
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,270
Windy, rainy and cold today. Was nice to spend a bit of time in the shop and get my repaired front fender back on.
Here's the untouched factory side-
Here's the repaired side...not quite as nice...
...But, as you can see from the following two pics, once it is mounted, can't really tell the difference without really close inspection.
The first of the two above is the repaired side.
As is the case with so many fender badges, mine were rattling. Instead of just replacing the OEM keepers, I removed them...
Took the badges off...
...Cleaned the fender and the back of the badges with alcohol. Then used some 3M tape on the badges to hold them to the fender.
This is the same stuff that holds tank badges on. Looks good, and no more rattling.
With the fender back on, I had to remove the outer fairing again. There is just no way for me to reach the fendertip light connector otherwise.
I always use dielectric grease on electrical connections.
All buttoned back up.
Kevin
Here's the untouched factory side-
Here's the repaired side...not quite as nice...
...But, as you can see from the following two pics, once it is mounted, can't really tell the difference without really close inspection.
The first of the two above is the repaired side.
As is the case with so many fender badges, mine were rattling. Instead of just replacing the OEM keepers, I removed them...
Took the badges off...
...Cleaned the fender and the back of the badges with alcohol. Then used some 3M tape on the badges to hold them to the fender.
This is the same stuff that holds tank badges on. Looks good, and no more rattling.
With the fender back on, I had to remove the outer fairing again. There is just no way for me to reach the fendertip light connector otherwise.
I always use dielectric grease on electrical connections.
All buttoned back up.
Kevin
Windy, rainy and cold today. Was nice to spend a bit of time in the shop and get my repaired front fender back on.
Here's the untouched factory side-
Here's the repaired side...not quite as nice...
...But, as you can see from the following two pics, once it is mounted, can't really tell the difference without really close inspection.
The first of the two above is the repaired side.
As is the case with so many fender badges, mine were rattling. Instead of just replacing the OEM keepers, I removed them...
Took the badges off...
...Cleaned the fender and the back of the badges with alcohol. Then used some 3M tape on the badges to hold them to the fender.
This is the same stuff that holds tank badges on. Looks good, and no more rattling.
With the fender back on, I had to remove the outer fairing again. There is just no way for me to reach the fendertip light connector otherwise.
I always use dielectric grease on electrical connections.
All buttoned back up.
Kevin
That's a hell of a job Kevin......Nice work! jc
wheels
I put a Harley chrome 19 on the front and a set of chromed 16's on the rear using Pirelli tires. It fills out the wheel wells nicely and looks great.
By the way; if anyone is interested, I have the 2 chrome 15's with tires for 500 plus shipping that includes the 1100 mile tires, near new. The wheels are from my 2017.
I put a Harley chrome 19 on the front and a set of chromed 16's on the rear using Pirelli tires. It fills out the wheel wells nicely and looks great.
By the way; if anyone is interested, I have the 2 chrome 15's with tires for 500 plus shipping that includes the 1100 mile tires, near new. The wheels are from my 2017.
Didn’t happen without pix :Shrug:
Took my 17 in yesterday for a new front tire and drive belt.
My insurance is covering the drive belt because a rock or stick got caught in it and wore a deep groove.
Front tire is down to 1-2 mm and probably could go a little while longer but did not want to take it back in during riding season.
It has 12000 miles on it.
Since it is in there I am also having the WHIM system installed and a set of heated grips.
Bob
My insurance is covering the drive belt because a rock or stick got caught in it and wore a deep groove.
Front tire is down to 1-2 mm and probably could go a little while longer but did not want to take it back in during riding season.
It has 12000 miles on it.
Since it is in there I am also having the WHIM system installed and a set of heated grips.
Bob
Nothing left to do to it. All winter projects are done 
—New Front Tire with brake pads, new led headlight, led persute bulbs, oil relocation kit, 3 hole changes,
final cleaning to be done then ride it. If rideable weather ever arrives.
Looks like every one else is done also.
—New Front Tire with brake pads, new led headlight, led persute bulbs, oil relocation kit, 3 hole changes, final cleaning to be done then ride it. If rideable weather ever arrives.
Looks like every one else is done also.
Picked my trike up from the dealer and trailered it home. Fortunately it is an enclosed trailer since it has rained all day.
Had a new front tire put on as well as a new drive belt.
Also had the WHIM system and heated grips installed.
I had them do what they call a showroom shine so it is nice and shiny now, but when they were finishing up they found that the front vent would not close so now they have a new one ordered under warranty.
Hopefully it will stop raining tonight so I can unload it tomorrow.
I have some more DK lighting to install.
It is suppose rain 1" and hour for a while tonight.
Bob
Had a new front tire put on as well as a new drive belt.
Also had the WHIM system and heated grips installed.
I had them do what they call a showroom shine so it is nice and shiny now, but when they were finishing up they found that the front vent would not close so now they have a new one ordered under warranty.
Hopefully it will stop raining tonight so I can unload it tomorrow.
I have some more DK lighting to install.
It is suppose rain 1" and hour for a while tonight.
Bob
Cagmo
100+ Posts
DK Pro-Action Shocks
Installed DK Pro-Action shocks and 14" convertible comfort lift kit on my '16 Triglide.
The weather has been too rainy to give it a good test ride yet.
Had to use the secondary lift holes to get it lined up, but otherwise pretty straightforward installation.
Cagmo
Installed DK Pro-Action shocks and 14" convertible comfort lift kit on my '16 Triglide.
The weather has been too rainy to give it a good test ride yet.
Had to use the secondary lift holes to get it lined up, but otherwise pretty straightforward installation.
Cagmo
heated grips
Your going to love the heated grips, we added 4.5" reach back bars too, so easy to turn now with the added length. Wife Rode it for 70+ miles last weekend
Inspection Tag
Here in PA we are supposed to get the bike inspected once a year, and they typically put the sticker on the front fork slider or can. I did not want to do that especially since I have chrome sliders and cans to put on the bike. I dont want them placing that sticker onto the chrome. I bought a polished stainless steel inspection sticker plate, and placed it on the front fork using the upper caliper bolt. I had to use a spacer behind it to fill the machined area around the bolt hole. I had the sticker put on it yesterday.
Here in PA we are supposed to get the bike inspected once a year, and they typically put the sticker on the front fork slider or can. I did not want to do that especially since I have chrome sliders and cans to put on the bike. I dont want them placing that sticker onto the chrome. I bought a polished stainless steel inspection sticker plate, and placed it on the front fork using the upper caliper bolt. I had to use a spacer behind it to fill the machined area around the bolt hole. I had the sticker put on it yesterday.
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,280
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,281
DK Custom Products
Sponsor
- Thread starter
- #1,282
Cool!
When you get out for a ride...I'm betting your going to wonder why HD uses those stock shocks!
Kevin
Fearless
Gone But Not Forgotten
I agree nice addition my inspection Guy is good behind shifter even worked at a safety check and regis, Oper. Lic. Check
Installed the DK Custom Tri Glide Tour-Pak Fill with Run-Brake-Turn LED Lights.
They seriously light up the back of the trike. Another awesome product from DK Custom!!! Very easy to install.
Also installed Ciro drink holders front and back.
Also good products.
Bob
They seriously light up the back of the trike. Another awesome product from DK Custom!!! Very easy to install.
Also installed Ciro drink holders front and back.
Also good products.
Bob
Changed out my clutch lever with a Softbrake reduced reach lever. Initially it feels better but, I have not had the chance to ride with it yet. Compared them next to each other, and at the tip it is 1" closer. We shall see.
Better ride with DK Comfort lift
Received and installed DK's Comfort lift a few weeks ago. Went for a 70 mile ride through the foot hills to feel the difference in the ride. And what a difference, the new suspension felt softer and more responsive to the constant changes in road surface. No more wig/wag pounding as I navigate through the pot holes and ruts. This is a must do upgrade if you own a trike.
Also installed the Lidlox helmet locks I received the other day.
A little spendy but worth the security.
Received and installed DK's Comfort lift a few weeks ago. Went for a 70 mile ride through the foot hills to feel the difference in the ride. And what a difference, the new suspension felt softer and more responsive to the constant changes in road surface. No more wig/wag pounding as I navigate through the pot holes and ruts. This is a must do upgrade if you own a trike.
Also installed the Lidlox helmet locks I received the other day.
A little spendy but worth the security.
Changed out a burned out light bulb on the rear corner of my tour-pak. I was able to get the corner of the liner pulled back to get to the bulb, but couldn't get the whole liner out ?? First time I've done this. I didn't see any bolts or screws holding the liner in, but it sure was in there tight. Anyone pull the liner out in a Tour-Pak ?
Mine lifted right out Sully, barely stuck at all when we moved the tour-pak back.
If memory serves me correctly, I believe you need to remove the screws holding the cable that supports the lid when open.....
I believe you are correct.
Similar threads
Welcome to the Trike Talk Community
Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe
Forum statistics
Share this page
