Wheel came off on TG

I wouldn't think that wheel lugs would be that critical to worry about calibration. head bolt, rod bolts and the innerds of your motor .... that kind of stuff ...yes.

check it with another one and see how close it is.

the old saying of k.i.s.s. comes to mind
 
In the light of something being pointed out I have reread my post. I am sorry for any misunderstanding or offence that it may have caused. I was simply trying to give information. I am sorry if it came across any other way.
 
I guess that'll work on a clicker wrench, but not for a beam wrench. How would a beam wrench get out of calibration....if it's never been dropped or jarred - just old age and metal fatigue??

Calgary, I did check google, but there are so many places and prices. I was mainly looking for someone with first hand experience with a company and a brand/quality of a wrench.

Gary while you don't use a torque wrench everyday a good quality wrench can be found at most discount tool stores, or at Sears tools, or on EBay there is a good buy on a rebuilt used one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-Tools-Ut...8e1684&vxp=mtr

Utica makes most of the torque wrenches for many different tool brands. Just to their specs is the only difference. Many times you will find most of the parts would interchange for lots of different brands. Wonder why?

To go to 250# you can easly add $100-$150 to the same brand wrench. Most of anything you will run into won't go over 150# setting. If you do need one to go to 250# go rent one for a day.

I have a Harbor freight 1/2" wrench I bought for my grandson that is within 1.5# on the low end & .5# at 150#. Their scale on the handle isn't the best, but usable. Might be just lucky on that one tho.

Your beam type wrench is most likely fairly close, it is just hard to hit the same exact spot each time when you can't look straight on the scale.

If you want, have someone compare it to a known good wrench somewhere.
 

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