Phoenix v5 brake bleeder

[Jack Klarich]

That's what i thought, but what works for one guy isn't right for everyone. I am even hesitant to put the fill bottle in the small mc to vacuum fluid out calipers, I have my wife add fluid as needed when using pneumatic vacuum, that way i can keep good seal on bleeder and close it off under vacuum.

You have a GOOD tried and trued way of doing this

I have over the years tried just about all ways of bleeding hydraulic systems

We had some cars in the shop that were real problems to bleed

Enter the Amco pressure bleeder

This worked with air .The bleeder tank held about 4 gallons of fluid

Most systems only needed about 10 psi to bleed, the big plus was the fluid in the tank did NOT take on moisture as it was pressurized at all times

 

[Tucci]

JK

I learned everything from an old timer (which i am now), always said if you don't know why and how it works how are you going to repair it. He always used the type (different model) bleeder you mentioned until abs came on the scene. Then thousands of $$$ in snap-on etc.

 

[Old Road Dog]

Im a low tech kinda guy.I just drilled holes in the MC covers and epoxied copper nipples on.You can make a pressure bleeder from a new 1 gallon garden sprayer. The nice thing about this is you dont have to keep topping off.I tee'd tubeing to both front and rear mc's and bled both at the same time.Took the bike down the road and did several panic stops to activate the HCU ( made with inferior components BTW) went back and re-bled. No digital technician required.I havnt decided how Im gonna do the Freewheeler yet.Two year mark comes up this September.

 

[MDO]

I bled the front brake circuit on my Freewheeler the old fashion way with the addition of an inline check valve & it was simple, quick & worked just fine. I try not to make things more difficult than they need to be. Personally, I have enough problems without doing that. With no ABS, the Freewheeler is easy to bleed.

Whatever way you all chose to bleed yours, I'm sure it will work fine. Good luck.

 

[MDO]

I just think, under normal circumstances, it's not needed. I also think, like Jack stated, drilling that thin aluminum MC cover is asking for trouble. When I tested my homemade bleeder bottle & in-line check valve, that goes on right behind the bleed screw, it was on my 2005 Honda Sabre that had never had the brakes serviced. Their was some minor bubbles in the front circuit, I believe from moisture & the rear disk line was fine & that was 15 year old fluid.

The check valve ensures you can't make a mistake & suck air back in & it worked great.

Just for exchanging fluid every few years, I feel that simpler is better.

Those Fix My Hog guys were replacing brake lines, that's why they did the more thorough bleeding.

They have videos on routine fluid flushing & they do it the old fashioned way.

 

[Jack Klarich]

If you tie the lever midway you will have the compensator port in the master cylinder open, thus the fluid will make its way past the seal, no need for a second helper

If you MUST pump the brakes, use slow and 1/2 pumps

This will insure not to churn more air bubbles and will not move the piston seal to far so you do not roll the lip of the seal