88 Blazer Trike

Bob, I have had the wheel sitting over in the corner of my shop for about 3 years now. I have no use for it, and would rather see someone use it than worry about selling it at this point in time.

I'm sure you don't hear this often but honestly, I don't want your money! Save it for something else on the project.

I'll post up the weight of it for you tomorrow, and we'll go from there....

Thank you for your offer.

I went to the ups store to ship you a box but found out the shipping both ways would be over $130.

I just cant see paying that much in shipping.

I will try to find one locally as you originally suggested

Again thanks for the offer though
 
If you can't find what you need locally, my previous "offer" still stands.

$130. does sound a bit high for shipping both ways, but I've been out of the loop in UPS, FEDEX, etc., shipping rates as of late. But then again, if you can't get a wheel/tire combo locally that can be used on the final version & on the road for less than $130.00 delivered, my earlier standing offer for a front wheel doesn't sound too bad...:Shrug:
 
If you can't find what you need locally, my previous "offer" still stands.

$130. does sound a bit high for shipping both ways, but I've been out of the loop in UPS, FEDEX, etc., shipping rates as of late. But then again, if you can't get a wheel/tire combo locally that can be used on the final version & on the road for less than $130.00 delivered, my earlier standing offer for a front wheel doesn't sound too bad...:Shrug:

I would rather just send you a $130 money order, you can take the wheel to a UPS store, have them back and ship. (you will have to take it there anyway) Then you could keep the extra money.

If you would still rather me send you a box I will. I just wanted to pay you something for the wheel instead of using that money to pay for shipping a box.

Again I appreciate you doing this and will do it however you want.
 
Bob, Shoot me your address on email & I'll get it to you. (provided you got my earlier email?)

If you don't mind paying the shipping, its yours. I'll try to get to UPS tomorrow once I have an address from you, & I'll let you know the cost...
 
Bob, Shoot me your address on email & I'll get it to you. (provided you got my earlier email?)

If you don't mind paying the shipping, its yours. I'll try to get to UPS tomorrow once I have an address from you, & I'll let you know the cost...

Thanks,

I will send it in a few via email

I will also send you a money order in the mail

Or would a PayPal transfer be better for you.
 
Bob, Hold off on sending $ until I can get the actual cost for you. I'm not in paypal, so once you get the wheel we can figure out how to handle the shipping.

I'll check email when I get back later, as I'm heading out for a bit right now...
 
35 degrees

just hanging there now

Lots of measuring ahead

Will tack in place then weld the hell out of it.

I plan to use 1/4 inch gussets/bracing on the top, Bottom and sides

The neck itself is sitting in a 1/4 thick channel

The top bar you see there will be cut back and then 2 ran 1 on either side of the engine

neck 1.jpg

neck 2.jpg
 
With the seating I have this Trike is way longer than I wanted it to be.

Right now it looks like my wheel base will be 11 ft.

I want to get that down to 9ft if possible

I have to rethink my seating area to shorten the trike

seats 2.jpg
 
Bob,

Looking at your build it looks like the only way you are going to cut 2 ft. out of the wheelbase is to go to an IRS rear end. I realize that it's pretty late in the build but you can only shorten the driveshaft so much before you have unusable angles or suspension travel. With an IRS you can go as short as 1 u-joint between the trans and differential. I believe that Snu has a picture of a Ford unit in one of his posts that is probably quite common (read cheap) with the subframe. Maybe the Tech,tech,tech thread in VW Trikes.
 
Bob, Hold off on sending $ until I can get the actual cost for you. I'm not in paypal, so once you get the wheel we can figure out how to handle the shipping.

I'll check email when I get back later, as I'm heading out for a bit right now...

I just received the wheel and tire.

Now how can I pay you.

Please let me know if sending a money order will be OK or if you want some other type of payment.

Thanks again man. I really appreciate you doing this for me.
 
Glad to hear it made it to you! Hopefully it'll work for you.

Did they put the shipping invoice in the "package"?

I'm only asking to have you cover the shipping. Nothing more, got it?:nono:;)
 
Glad to hear it made it to you! Hopefully it'll work for you.

Did they put the shipping invoice in the "package"?

I'm only asking to have you cover the shipping. Nothing more, got it?:nono:;)

I have that and I am more than happy to send you that and more.

I want to pay you for it.

If you refuse to let me pay you then how about I make a donation in your name to somewhere.

Where would you like me to donate to?

I'm sorry but I do not take something for nothing.

Will a money order sent to your address be OK?
 
Where would you like me to donate to? How about to: Trike Talk. (Papa Z likely won't mind....)

Will a money order sent to your address be OK? yes

Looks like you're gaining on the project.ThumbUp Why is the 2 feet in length an issue?

The idea of redesigning your current framework to incorporate an independent rear in place of your solid axle is not fun, but if you're not in any time crunch to finish, maybe that's the way to go...?
 
glad you boys got the wheel deal worked out.......the fatboy will look good up front......Bob, talking shorter trikes....I took to liking that short one shown with those rake examples you posted. It had a little trunk on the back. I think it was black....
 
with the wheel sitting in approximate place with approximate 2 inch trail I measure approximately a 10ft 4 inch wheel base

I have 24 inches between the trany yoke and the rear end yoke.

I could cut 10 inches out of that leaving 14 inches and use a double cardan drive shaft

That would leave me a 9.6 wheel base

My question is is it worth it.

How bad is having a 10ft 4 inch wheelbase?

Per Tom Woods custom drive shafts website

Our 13.375" CV drive shaft will have a "safe effective and usable stroke of 3" allowing for 2.25" of spline engagement with the slip yoke at designed full extension. Longer working lengths will allow for a greater range of travel and tend to cost a little less.

Double_Cardan_driveshaft.gif
 
I wouldn't say its bad. But your bike is pictured in your mind. So you only have to please yourself. So when you stand back and look at it do you say, I don't know it looks to damn long, or are you happy with what you see? Handling wise I don' see it as a big deal. I don't know about other people but I never just turn my back and walk away from my bikes, I always look back at them. I like my stuff.
 
I wouldn't say its bad. But your bike is pictured in your mind. So you only have to please yourself. So when you stand back and look at it do you say, I don't know it looks to damn long, or are you happy with what you see? Handling wise I don' see it as a big deal. I don't know about other people but I never just turn my back and walk away from my bikes, I always look back at them. I like my stuff.

Its actually the handling around corners I am worried about. The look of the length is Ok with me.
 
reply

Bob....not sure what you mean by handling around corners? If you mean stability.....I would guess wheelbase would make no difference. If you mean cornering radius then yes, i suppose a longer wb would not turn as tight as a short wb.

One factor that may make a difference would be the rake, I could be wrong....but it seems with my 45deg. rake the front wheel lays over, and doesn't start turning as quickly as a wheel with less rake would.

Example ....childs trike with front wheel @ 90deg.....almost turns in its own length.

the turning angle of your new front will play a big part in your turning radius.

Just thinking out loud here......so take with a grain of salt.

rrunners, talk of solid mounts, jogged the cobwebs, remembering something about a trunion type engine mount/w trans and rear ridgedly mounted and pivoting on the eng trunions......would make for short trike.....and lots of unsprung weight, you and passenger need room, so what you have now looks good to me!
 
I'm sorry I should have made my concern more clear.

Yes I am speaking about the turn radius

Going down the road the trike being so long should not be a problem.

Turning around, doing a U turns, going into and out of parking spaces and so on. This is what I am concerned about

That is the main reason I wanted less of a rake.
 
My wheelbase is without measuring (sitting in snow) is about 11-12feet. And has a rake of 35 degrees and can whip a u turn on a narrow two lane road without a problem. Am in process of gathering pieces for a new build. Got the engine and rear axle, need a tranny, would like to find a 700r4 but will settle for a turbo 350.
 
My wheelbase is without measuring (sitting in snow) is about 11-12feet. And has a rake of 35 degrees and can whip a u turn on a narrow two lane road without a problem. Am in process of gathering pieces for a new build. Got the engine and rear axle, need a tranny, would like to find a 700r4 but will settle for a turbo 350.

I wish you were closer. I have a 700r4 under a tarp that you could have for free.

Its a 4X4 version with a transfer case.

It could be converted to 2 wheel drive though by replacing the output shaft and output cone.

It would need to be rebuilt as reverse did not work when it was in the vehicle.

BUT shipping on that would not make it worth sending to you.
 
My wheelbase is without measuring (sitting in snow) is about 11-12feet. And has a rake of 35 degrees and can whip a u turn on a narrow two lane road without a problem. Am in process of gathering pieces for a new build. Got the engine and rear axle, need a tranny, would like to find a 700r4 but will settle for a turbo 350.

I would love to see a picture of your trike. How about posting it up.
 

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