:clapping::wave4:
4th generation of my trike
- Thread starter irondad01
- Start date
- Moderator
- #185
WOW it turned out super
Trying to keep the house safe, wow, time flew by me, this is just to awesome ! Very nice work along the way and the end results are just "awesome".
I am sorry too, I liked keeping tabs on the progress of this build. It was all very educational.
Just nice...………..
I am sorry too, I liked keeping tabs on the progress of this build. It was all very educational.
Just nice...………..
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #187
Hi, I'm back. I finally got some lettering done and on. I took it out of the basement for the first time and put some gas in it. Naturally the petcock thought it should leak when on reserve. I was able to take my wife for a ride around the yard but I'll have to tear the petcock apart and see what's going on.
A little history. First it started as a 1973 VW Beetle. Next around 1984 it became a trike.
I got a special construction title and plates and rode it for about a year then sold it to an old guy that never took it on the road. He put about 10 miles on it around his field then put it a barn for 20 years.
I bought it back as a rust ball and changed almost everything. I had learned some stuff in the 20 years.
I built pretty much everything, frame, front end, fiberglass body, fender, etc. It was in this form for 12 years and a lot of miles. Last September I blew out a tire sidewall and that was the start of the latest madness.
The letters 73VW4G are 1973 VW and 4th generation. The Kilroy Was Here is a nod to WWII. TP28 on the fenders for tire pressure. And the stars on the tank for the military.
Now hopefully it's on to enjoying it on the road.
Thanks everyone for following along.
A little history. First it started as a 1973 VW Beetle. Next around 1984 it became a trike.
I got a special construction title and plates and rode it for about a year then sold it to an old guy that never took it on the road. He put about 10 miles on it around his field then put it a barn for 20 years.
I bought it back as a rust ball and changed almost everything. I had learned some stuff in the 20 years.
I built pretty much everything, frame, front end, fiberglass body, fender, etc. It was in this form for 12 years and a lot of miles. Last September I blew out a tire sidewall and that was the start of the latest madness.
The letters 73VW4G are 1973 VW and 4th generation. The Kilroy Was Here is a nod to WWII. TP28 on the fenders for tire pressure. And the stars on the tank for the military.
Now hopefully it's on to enjoying it on the road.
Thanks everyone for following along.
Jack Klarich
Guest
Very nice restoration job:clapping:
Carl.........That Kill-Roy put it over the top.......
Fantastic Build ........ThumbUp...
Fantastic Build ........ThumbUp...
Very excellent.
Now to enjoy it.
Sure was great watching you build.
Thanks for taking us along with you.
Now to enjoy it.
Sure was great watching you build.
Thanks for taking us along with you.
Looks good Carl, hope it serves you well.
Front rake
Thank you for taking the time to share with us your trike build. That's one cool ride. I was wondering do you like the 28 degree front end better than the 40 degree you had? Thanks curtis
Thank you for taking the time to share with us your trike build. That's one cool ride. I was wondering do you like the 28 degree front end better than the 40 degree you had? Thanks curtis
LarryA
500+ Posts
asleep at the wheel over here...missed the end of your build, It turned out great! that military look sets it off from the rest....like it!
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #195
Thanks Larry, We've put at least 500-600 miles on it so far and haven't needed to change anything. Lots of people say they've never seen anything like it. I'd like to do another project but I need to find a wealthy relative to leave me lots of money.
Curtis, The rake doesn't seem to make much difference in the handling. It might be a little more sensitive but I got used to it pretty quickly. It could be because it has a shorter wheelbase now. I made sure the trail stayed at 2 inches so the steering is light but still gives some road feed back. I changed the rake mostly for the look. 40* wouldn't have looked right on a Military bike.
Curtis, The rake doesn't seem to make much difference in the handling. It might be a little more sensitive but I got used to it pretty quickly. It could be because it has a shorter wheelbase now. I made sure the trail stayed at 2 inches so the steering is light but still gives some road feed back. I changed the rake mostly for the look. 40* wouldn't have looked right on a Military bike.
:Agree: The military look is cool beans!
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #197
Hi everyone,
Curtis had asked me about the rake on my trike and I thought I would explain a little more on that. Basically rake controls the axle on a horizontal plane and trail controls the vertical plane. I know, kinda confusing. Maybe pictures would help.
Pics. 1&2 are the extremes on rake. The more rake you have the more the tire will lean up on the side wall as you turn. Pics. 3&4 show that. Pic.3 with 0* rake and 0 trail would be like standing a coin up on edge and turning it side to side. A trike front wheel like that would steer very easy but you would have to hold on to the bars all the time because there is nothing to make it self center and go straight down the road. That's where trail comes in. Pic. 4 with 90* rake and infinity trail would lean the wheel but not turn the trike.
That's why a trike with radical rake and lots of trail takes forty acres to turn around. You can have radical looks and good turning radius if you keep the trail numbers down around two inches. Phoenix Trike Works did that with some wild looking trikes. I guess they're out of business now. Pic. 5 shows radical rake with a car tire. It will want to lean up on the edge of the tire because the tire has a flat profile. Even with a proper trail it will be stiff steering because the tire will want to remain on the flat. If you want to run a car tire you're better off with a steeper rake. Even with a small amount of rake it will still steer harder than a bike tire because it's trying to roll up on the edge.
Trail gets confusing but if you stay around 2 inches of positive trail on a trike or sidecar bike you should be good.
Hope this didn't mess anyone's brain up too much.
Curtis had asked me about the rake on my trike and I thought I would explain a little more on that. Basically rake controls the axle on a horizontal plane and trail controls the vertical plane. I know, kinda confusing. Maybe pictures would help.
Pics. 1&2 are the extremes on rake. The more rake you have the more the tire will lean up on the side wall as you turn. Pics. 3&4 show that. Pic.3 with 0* rake and 0 trail would be like standing a coin up on edge and turning it side to side. A trike front wheel like that would steer very easy but you would have to hold on to the bars all the time because there is nothing to make it self center and go straight down the road. That's where trail comes in. Pic. 4 with 90* rake and infinity trail would lean the wheel but not turn the trike.
That's why a trike with radical rake and lots of trail takes forty acres to turn around. You can have radical looks and good turning radius if you keep the trail numbers down around two inches. Phoenix Trike Works did that with some wild looking trikes. I guess they're out of business now.
Pic. 5 shows radical rake with a car tire. It will want to lean up on the edge of the tire because the tire has a flat profile. Even with a proper trail it will be stiff steering because the tire will want to remain on the flat. If you want to run a car tire you're better off with a steeper rake. Even with a small amount of rake it will still steer harder than a bike tire because it's trying to roll up on the edge.Trail gets confusing but if you stay around 2 inches of positive trail on a trike or sidecar bike you should be good.
Hope this didn't mess anyone's brain up too much.
Thnx for sharing the build process. Nice job! Be Safe BK
- Moderator
- #199
it is very nice ride it proudly you deserve
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #200
Hi everyone, a little update.
The trike is running great with no major problems. Between last summer and so far this spring we have a few thousand miles on. I did change a couple of things. I was getting oil seeping out where it wasn't supposed to, like behind the crank pulley. It had been doing this even before the rebuild. It finally dawned on me that the engine wasn't breathing enough air out of the crankcase. I had a single 1/2" hose running from the oil fill pipe to a breather on the firewall. Where it came out of the fill pipe it made a 90* turn adding more restriction.
I drilled and tapped the fill pipe for two new fittings that take 5/8" hose. Maybe overkill but I figured more is better. That cured the seeping. The engine probably runs easier too with less internal pressure.
The other thing I changed was the carb. I had an after market Bocar on for many years but it was getting tired. Leaking air in and gas out making it run kinda weird. I found VolkzBitz on the internet and ordered a rebuilt Solex from him. It looked like a new carb. when it arrived. The trike again runs like it should.
That's all for now, hope this helped someone.
The trike is running great with no major problems. Between last summer and so far this spring we have a few thousand miles on. I did change a couple of things. I was getting oil seeping out where it wasn't supposed to, like behind the crank pulley. It had been doing this even before the rebuild. It finally dawned on me that the engine wasn't breathing enough air out of the crankcase. I had a single 1/2" hose running from the oil fill pipe to a breather on the firewall. Where it came out of the fill pipe it made a 90* turn adding more restriction.
I drilled and tapped the fill pipe for two new fittings that take 5/8" hose. Maybe overkill but I figured more is better. That cured the seeping. The engine probably runs easier too with less internal pressure.
The other thing I changed was the carb. I had an after market Bocar on for many years but it was getting tired. Leaking air in and gas out making it run kinda weird. I found VolkzBitz on the internet and ordered a rebuilt Solex from him. It looked like a new carb. when it arrived. The trike again runs like it should.
That's all for now, hope this helped someone.
LarryA
500+ Posts
nice solve on the breather problem....sure like the gen/crank pulley and shield treatment...clean and technical!
Awesome Carl, glad you're enjoying it.
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #203
I got an idea stuck in my head so I had to try it. I was thinking I needed a fairing and windshield. I messed around a little yesterday and came up with this so far.
I made a template out of cardboard then cut it out of 18 ga. mild steel.
I also used my bead roller to make this out of a piece of scrap.
I did some bead rolling and bending to give it some strength and make it look like a fairing.
The plan is to cut a hole to insert the VW image into the front. A lot of little tack welds to keep it from warping then some finish sanding. We'll see how that turns out.
So far I have zero money invested buying anything. I'm using stuff I had left over from the trike build. I will have to buy some lexon and maybe some strap metal for mounting brackets. I still have some paint left over.
If it doesn't turn out right I can always use it as a wall hanger decoration.
I made a template out of cardboard then cut it out of 18 ga. mild steel.
I also used my bead roller to make this out of a piece of scrap.
I did some bead rolling and bending to give it some strength and make it look like a fairing.
The plan is to cut a hole to insert the VW image into the front. A lot of little tack welds to keep it from warping then some finish sanding. We'll see how that turns out.
So far I have zero money invested buying anything. I'm using stuff I had left over from the trike build. I will have to buy some lexon and maybe some strap metal for mounting brackets. I still have some paint left over.
If it doesn't turn out right I can always use it as a wall hanger decoration.
LarryA
500+ Posts
like it...nice use of the bead roller for both fairing and emblem...looks like an offset for the windshield bottom also...needing something similar for mine....65/70 without a fairing/windshield gets kinda breezey! With the texters on cruise control it may be safer riding at higher speeds?....liked riding better back when 55 was the limit, but, wish in one hand....
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #205
Hi Larry, There is an offset for the windshield. I used the dies on the bead roller that tip the metal ( I guess that's what you call it). I tipped it up then moved down 2" and tipped it down making a ridge like I did on the side of the body.
When the trike was white I sat lower and it seemed to block the wind more. Now I get more wind noise so hopefully this will help without giving me buffeting.
Here in central PA we have tons of little winding back roads in the 45 to 55 mph range that go from little town to little town with small restaurants. Ride to Eat, Eat to Ride.
When the trike was white I sat lower and it seemed to block the wind more. Now I get more wind noise so hopefully this will help without giving me buffeting.
Here in central PA we have tons of little winding back roads in the 45 to 55 mph range that go from little town to little town with small restaurants. Ride to Eat, Eat to Ride.
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #206
I got a little done yesterday.
It took a lot of time to put the VW in. Spot weld and let it cool then repeat. I used a mig., I think a tig welder would probably be better with less clean up after. It will need a skim coat of body filler.
I trimmed it back to the edge of the bead roll to give me more clearance on the gas tank at full steering lock.
On the back side I curved some 1/8" X 1 1/4" strap and braced it with 1" tubing. I'll weld mounting brackets to the tubing for the upper mount. The 1" tube seems over kill but I figured GPS holders and other accessories mount to the handlebars so this will give me an optional spot. The back side will get painted with pick-up bed liner.
It took a lot of time to put the VW in. Spot weld and let it cool then repeat. I used a mig., I think a tig welder would probably be better with less clean up after. It will need a skim coat of body filler.
I trimmed it back to the edge of the bead roll to give me more clearance on the gas tank at full steering lock.
On the back side I curved some 1/8" X 1 1/4" strap and braced it with 1" tubing. I'll weld mounting brackets to the tubing for the upper mount. The 1" tube seems over kill but I figured GPS holders and other accessories mount to the handlebars so this will give me an optional spot. The back side will get painted with pick-up bed liner.
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #207
I've been slowly working on the fairing. No hurry, we got a dusting of snow today so I think my riding days are coming to an end for this year.
This is how I"m going to mount it. I made the clamps that hook it to the handle bars. It's pretty solid with just that and it's
adjustable up and down. To make sure it won't move I made the bottom brackets. They'll bolt to the fender mount and the bottom of the fairing. You can see I tacked some fender washers on the inside on the bottom to double up the thickness to avoid cracks. When I'm all done and test ride I might have to modify the bottom mounts to adjust for buffeting.
I may have to trim the top down some. When I had it on the trike it seemed a little to high and blocked my sight line.
It's getting close to body work and paint.
This is how I"m going to mount it. I made the clamps that hook it to the handle bars. It's pretty solid with just that and it's
adjustable up and down. To make sure it won't move I made the bottom brackets. They'll bolt to the fender mount and the bottom of the fairing. You can see I tacked some fender washers on the inside on the bottom to double up the thickness to avoid cracks. When I'm all done and test ride I might have to modify the bottom mounts to adjust for buffeting.
I may have to trim the top down some. When I had it on the trike it seemed a little to high and blocked my sight line.
It's getting close to body work and paint.
irondad01
150+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #208
A few days ago I painted the back black with the same paint I used for the frame and front end. I'd like to put some bed liner on some of the back but I don't have any and I only need a small amount. I hate to buy a can big enough to do a truck bed for all I need. I have time to think about it.
I taped up the back so I could paint the front.
I primed it the other day and today I gave it a shot of the duck boat paint.
It takes a couple of weeks to really cure. It's kind of soft until then. Once it's cured it's very tough and gas and oil resistant.
I taped up the back so I could paint the front.
I primed it the other day and today I gave it a shot of the duck boat paint.
It takes a couple of weeks to really cure. It's kind of soft until then. Once it's cured it's very tough and gas and oil resistant.
LarryA
500+ Posts
Had to back up and get a refresh on your build....the fairing/windshield will be a great finish....just thinking, some desert looking helmets?
Sure do like the look of that machine.....damn near can feel sand in my teeth!
Sure do like the look of that machine.....damn near can feel sand in my teeth!
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