How many do there own work on their trikes

[alienwulf]

Good thought I'll take a good look with the starter out of the way. Seems pretty clean from what I can see. Last time i had the cover off chain, adjuster shoe and comp all looked good. When we had the jugs off last year was pretty surprised how clean it all was. That's a good thing.

 

[Trailridr]

DIY Maintenance

I agree with all of the above. When I bought my 2012 TG (used). There was a tool kit in the Tour Pack. I hope it was stock and not an item the previous owner left in it. It resembles a Leatherman on steroids. This is the most worthless piece of junk I've seen. It doesn't fit anything and the dealer is asking (I believe) $85.00 for it. Don't waste your money on it.

 

[pcombe]

I may want to change the primary drive gear in my 1989 tourglide.

The gear may be riveted on this model and Harley Davidson makes a $400.00 tool for the job,

The gear runs about $75.00.

An after market hub is $357.00.

Who has one of these riveters to do the job, preferably near Wyoming but could ship it?

 

[DonC]

Wow.

Pripriortory tools suck.

sikorsky aircraft does that as well.

Good luck

I may want to change the primary drive gear in my 1989 tourglide.

The gear may be riveted on this model and Harley Davidson makes a $400.00 tool for the job,

The gear runs about $75.00.

An after market hub is $357.00.

Who has one of these riveters to do the job, preferably near Wyoming but could ship it?

View attachment 39227

 

[Fearless]

looks like it's...

I will be changing front pulley this winter not sure 30 or 31 any and all opinions welcome as well as best practices doing it. :AGGHH: wrench safely fred

 

[JohnCockburn]

Always did my own work.

I was damn near born with a wrench in my hand. Daddy taught me well! Since I could ride a bicycle, my Dad mentored me but made me do it myself.

And so it was that I NEVER trusted my vehicles to ANYONE. I have changed out differential gears on 4X4's, rebuilt transmissions (manual & auto), rebuilt engines, done bodywork and paint...everything but mounting tires. I can do the tires but just not worth the effort.

I'm now 65. At 60, I bought my first Harley, 2001 Ultra. Did a level 1 engine upgrade including gear driven cam set and ECM replacement. Started with a "canned" fuel map from S&S database and tweaked it until the beast runs flawlessly. Man, those .510 cams turn on at 3000 rpm like a turbo kicking in!! Scared the s--- outta me!!

Now at 65, bought a 2000 Ultra Trike Conversion (Motor Trike).

I Finally broke down and paid the "stealer" to do the rake kit (Easy Steer).

Actually, it was a great deal. The dealership owner and I were talking. He said, "I know you can do the job. But how long do you think it will take you?" I answered that with learning curve delays, I planned on killing a whole weekend on it. He agreed that's about what I could expect. Then he said, "I bill that job at a flat three hours. Since you bought the trike here, you get a 15% discount for the first thirty days. That puts the rate at $65/hr. or about $200!

What's your weekend worth to you?"

He got the job. His mechanic was flawless.

I swallowed a lot of pride there for the first time in my life.

Since then, I took over the rest of the fine tuning of the trike. Put in a new clutch pack and torque compensator. Replaced the shocks on the rear, and realigned the body (installer had it wrong). Found a MotorTrike installation manual on line. (They won't sell you one unless you take their training to become a certified installer.)

I guess many here know, the MotorTrike and Harley Techs sometimes aren't much help. I had primary drive issues and each of them pointed to the other. I finally figured it out on my own. On my two wheeler, I always run the primary chain on the "tight side" of the spec.

And it works great there. On the trike, to reduce clutch drag to the point where I can shift into reverse with the engine running, I had to run it on the loose side!

So, yes, I am proud of my capabilities. My machines are not just "tuned to spec".

They are optimized in every sense of the word!

So, my advice is: "Do everything that you possibly can. But know your limits." And don't stop learning til it's "Game Over".

 

[Gorilla]

John great post thank you

 

[DonC]

Thanks!

Appreciate all the advice ������

I was damn near born with a wrench in my hand. Daddy taught me well! Since I could ride a bicycle, my Dad mentored me but made me do it myself.

And so it was that I NEVER trusted my vehicles to ANYONE. I have changed out differential gears on 4X4's, rebuilt transmissions (manual & auto), rebuilt engines, done bodywork and paint...everything but mounting tires. I can do the tires but just not worth the effort.

I'm now 65. At 60, I bought my first Harley, 2001 Ultra. Did a level 1 engine upgrade including gear driven cam set and ECM replacement. Started with a "canned" fuel map from S&S database and tweaked it until the beast runs flawlessly. Man, those .510 cams turn on at 3000 rpm like a turbo kicking in!!

Scared the s--- outta me!!

Now at 65, bought a 2000 Ultra Trike Conversion (Motor Trike).

I Finally broke down and paid the "stealer" to do the rake kit (Easy Steer). Actually, it was a great deal. The dealership owner and I were talking. He said, "I know you can do the job. But how long do you think it will take you?" I answered that with learning curve delays, I planned on killing a whole weekend on it. He agreed that's about what I could expect. Then he said, "I bill that job at a flat three hours. Since you bought the trike here, you get a 15% discount for the first thirty days. That puts the rate at $65/hr.

or about $200! What's your weekend worth to you?"

He got the job.

His mechanic was flawless.

I swallowed a lot of pride there for the first time in my life. Since then, I took over the rest of the fine tuning of the trike. Put in a new clutch pack and torque compensator. Replaced the shocks on the rear, and realigned the body (installer had it wrong). Found a MotorTrike installation manual on line. (They won't sell you one unless you take their training to become a certified installer.)

I guess many here know, the MotorTrike and Harley Techs sometimes aren't much help. I had primary drive issues and each of them pointed to the other. I finally figured it out on my own.

On my two wheeler, I always run the primary chain on the "tight side" of the spec. And it works great there. On the trike, to reduce clutch drag to the point where I can shift into reverse with the engine running, I had to run it on the loose side!

So, yes, I am proud of my capabilities.

My machines are not just "tuned to spec". They are optimized in every sense of the word!

So, my advice is: "Do everything that you possibly can. But know your limits." And don't stop learning til it's "Game Over".

 

[1dn5up]

When diving into the unknown, I do my home work looking at the circles and arrows in the manuals. If in doubt farm it out. Arthritis sucks.

 

[pcombe]

Im in the process of dismantling my primary drive system for a bad seal on my 1994 model 80", Hoping that's all it is.

Worked on it quite a while today and am having a hard time moving.

One thing bothers me, when I got to the seal behind my compensator it was facing the correct direction ( I expected to see it turned opposite as if I were running a dry clutch instead of a wet one) and I could see no visible damage, My engine etc. is running great so I really dont expect anything really wrong but am puzzled over why its pulling oil out of the primary into the engine and overfilling my oil tank?

The seal is supposed to dump engine oil into the primary when it fails, not pull oil out of the primary into the engine, or such is my understanding?

When that seal goes back in, it's supposed to look as if you are putting it in backward?

Im going to go ahead and remove the inner primary case even though I could put the new seal in without doing so?

Any thoughts?

Im going to go ahead and replace the compensator gears and will likely break down and replace the clutch basket, the primary drive gears are looking a might sharp.

I don't really have the $340.00 to do it being on a fixed income but im tired of taking down my primary. also replacing the primary chain.

I don't suppose any one has a really good clutch basket for a (tapered shaft) 1989-1993? 80" evo.

Mine is pressed on the shaft by tightening the clutch hub bolt. Has a key also. Is removed with a hub puller.

I see an aftermarket basket for $340.00 in a catalog. should fit my clutch guts.

 

[pcombe]

these are pretty much what im after

 

[peteg59]

One thing bothers me, when I got to the seal behind my compensator it was facing the correct direction ( I expected to see it turned opposite as if I were running a dry clutch instead of a wet one) and I could see no visible damage, My engine etc. is running great so I really dont expect anything really wrong but am puzzled over why its pulling oil out of the primary into the engine and overfilling my oil tank?

The seal is supposed to dump engine oil into the primary when it fails, not pull oil out of the primary into the engine, or such is my understanding?

When that seal goes back in, it's supposed to look as if you are putting it in backward?

One of my riding buds has/had the same issue on his 91 FXR.

After replacing the same seal you're talking about & having the issue continue, he looked into the issue further.

What he found was that HD had a crank bushing to LH case issue from 85~94 or 95, causing the leakback.

The Indy shop he uses recommended a double lipped seal to cure the problem.

I'm not sure what seal is used but I can likely find out if you haven't already addressed yours.

I'm in the same boat as you, mine's a 90, so naturally this has my full attention!

I'm running Amsoil synthetic ATF in my primary, and don't need it mixing with 20~50 engine oil. Not that it would kill it, but certainly not good.

Keep us up on what you find for "The Cure"ThumbUp

 

[pcombe]

One of my riding buds has/had the same issue on his 91 FXR.

After replacing the same seal you're talking about & having the issue continue, he looked into the issue further.

What he found was that HD had a crank bushing to LH case issue from 85~94 or 95, causing the leakback.

The Indy shop he uses recommended a double lipped seal to cure the problem.

I'm not sure what seal is used but I can likely find out if you haven't already addressed yours.

I'm in the same boat as you, mine's a 90, so naturally this has my full attention!

I'm running Amsoil synthetic ATF in my primary, and don't need it mixing with 20~50 engine oil. Not that it would kill it, but certainly not good.

Keep us up on what you find for "The Cure"ThumbUp

Will do, I have to believe lee is right about it being a breathing issue?

 

[peteg59]

Has to be something fairly simple if it just started doing this after what, 22 years?
I was reading on another HD forum that there was indeed a sealing issue in the early Evo engines that produced the same symptom your now experiencing.
The supposed trick to getting a good seal back is to remove old seal, clean both mating surfaces with contact cleaner to remove all oils.
Harley sells a specific and supposedly great gasket cement. I don't have any more on that cement, but the new seal should be coated on the outer surface, as well as the seal mating contact area on the case. Then leave unassembled overnight to dry.
Carefully replace seal in case.

 

[pcombe]

Has to be something fairly simple if it just started doing this after what, 22 years?

I was reading on another HD forum that there was indeed a sealing issue in the early Evo engines that produced the same symptom your now experiencing.

The supposed trick to getting a good seal back is to remove old seal, clean both mating surfaces with contact cleaner to remove all oils.

Harley sells a specific and supposedly great gasket cement. I don't have any more on that cement, but the new seal should be coated on the outer surface, as well as the seal mating contact area on the case. Then leave unassembled overnight to dry.

Carefully replace seal in case.

Thanks!

I normally put some silicone on a finger and put a light coat on the outside of the seal before installation, I believe that's what most folks do?

I have never bought any of Harley special mix?

It's a good idea and I usually try to leave time for a sealant to set. I hate it, but I do it!

 

[peteg59]

I guess its a cement vs silicone adhesive.
Perhaps a bit more difficult to remove once assembled & cured, but in theory it shouldn't have to come apart for awhile...

 

[pcombe]

I guess its a cement vs silicone adhesive.

Perhaps a bit more difficult to remove once assembled & cured, but in theory it shouldn't have to come apart for awhile...

I have had my share of digging out old seals, Some come out easy, some will make you pee backward?:laugh:

 

[Rollin Thunder]

I;m a long time Hot Rodder and old biker. So after buy my 1st New HD in 88 I learned fast how to change tires and do oil changes. Plus do some things like brakes and stuff yrs ago cause I ain't made of $$$. Plus like what was said earlier on this post is then you know your bike and how it sounds. Trikes to me are easier to work on as far as the rear part of it. I've had the wheels off and the tour pkg off of mine already installing a life kits and truck lift. Easy as drinking Beer if your into that sort of thing. Just take your time and if you have questions ask away on here. YOU DON"T have to rush thru it cause you have your car or truck in case you need to go some place. Don't over thing theses things their not that complicated at all.

ThumbUpGood Luck..............Rick

 

[Bogeysix]

After I bought my Trike, one of the first things I bought was a J&S Jack. I have most tools to do any kind of work except change tires. I would pull the front wheel off and take it to a Indy to change the rubber, and the rear two I take to my local garage which is only $15.00 per tire to change.
When I jack up the trike, I have a small stool on wheels that I just roll around on. You would be surprised at how much work can be done sitting on your ass.

 

[rodekyll]

I built my trike from a stack of metal sticks on the floor. I do as much of my own work as I have tools or the back for. I have no machine tools, so when I get into fabrication I need to farm some stuff out. I need help with heavy lifting. Otherwise nobody else has ever worked on my bikes or trikes. Ever.

 

[DonC]

Great points. Gotta look into that's!

After I bought my Trike, one of the first things I bought was a J&S Jack. I have most tools to do any kind of work except change tires. I would pull the front wheel off and take it to a Indy to change the rubber, and the rear two I take to my local garage which is only $15.00 per tire to change.
When I jack up the trike, I have a small stool on wheels that I just roll around on. You would be surprised at how much work can be done sitting on your ass.

 

[pcombe]

Will do, I have to believe lee is right about it being a breathing issue?

Well after test riding for a hundred miles I do believe I have the problem fixed, thank God.

It took me forever to get it done.

Tired sore and not feeling good made me take my time.

I kinda went for the over kill on the job?

While I was in there I pulled the final drive pulley and changed the main and both inner shipper shaft seals on the tranny.

The final drive pulley was replaced when I built the bike, It looks good as well as the drive belt.

I replaced the worn gears and compensator and changed the crankshaft seal, Turns out it was in there facing the right direction.

I could see no damage but it must have been bad to have it fixed now?

When I could see no obvious damage I went on a hunt for anything else that might have been contributing to my problems?

I just didn't want to have to go in there again for anything else until I have too..

I added a new primary chain replaced the clutch basket after lucking out and finding a barely used one on a back shelf of a local shop. There weren't even any wear spots on the teeth where the clutch plates ride that didn't polish right out!

I used a whet stone to polish gears etc, and dropped it right in. My clutch plates were well within tolerance so I reused them. I think I replaced those a couple years back when I put in the new engine.

I had put in an auto primary chain adjuster last spring.

I had forgotten I put in a new primary chain at that time so I have an extra with about 15,000 miles on it. Oh well!

That's what happens when you have a bike as old as mine and memory more than twice as old?

I noticed a small groove on the sealing surface on the starter jack shaft so I replaced that also.

I probably saved myself $3- $400 dollars but sometimes wish I would have had the money to let someone else do it?

There is a small bike shop here in Casper, Wyoming called Cycle works. Ron is the owners name and I will tell you he knows Harleys, I enjoy meeting someone who knows more than I do.

He's Harley certified in the past.

He is a great guy, I buy all my parts from him that he can sell me and he even lent me the special tools I needed.

How's that for service when I'm not paying him to do the job?

He is off to school this month at some point to go through motor trike school and will be a dealer building trikes before long.

That's cool, we don't have anyone doing it here as yet!

The one we had left many years back.

If you get a chance, Toss him some business ok?

With all the special tools I could never afford it's a wonder he keeps his service prices at $75.00 per hr. instead of the $95.00- $100.00 Our local Harley dealer charges?

He even has a Dyno but he cant put a trike on it.

Also thanks to fellow member (Jim) Lee H. Mann for the phone call helping to get my memory working again and help me think about all the subtle parts to check while I was in there.



I had my Harley motor manual for reference but once I started the job things just came natural after so many years with the same machine and it not being my first rodeo with it?

I do have a conversion bolt in the starter as it is a smaller thread than the bolts on the old starters and had to forget about the manual recommended torque value so I don't break the bolt.

You cant find one in town and it has to be special ordered.

 

[alienwulf]

With the mark up on parts and the labor saved, wish it was only 100 around here. You saved more than 400.00 and still got the rep of your own wrench. Hardest part for me is the getting up..so now I drag all the tool box's around me in a circle.

 

[pcombe]

With the mark up on parts and the labor saved, wish it was only 100 around here. You saved more than 400.00 and still got the rep of your own wrench. Hardest part for me is the getting up..so now I drag all the tool box's around me in a circle.

hell I normally wind up with tools all over the floor and forget where I set the one I was just using?

 

[rhino 2]

hell I normally wind up with tools all over the floor and forget where I set the one I was just using?

For me anyway i consider that normal, The worst thing is when you can't find a tool .. And you know you have it and can even picture it in your mind as to what it looks like and which draw it ''Should'' be in your tool cabinet. ... But it ain't there..:gah:

 

[peteg59]

For me anyway i consider that normal, The worst thing is when you can't find a tool .. And you know you have it and can even picture it in your mind as to what it looks like and which draw it ''Should'' be in your tool cabinet. ... But it ain't there..:gah:

Whats even worse is getting into a job knowing you have the tool(s) to complete it, and then cannot find the specific tool you need and know you had before the job began.
Then you go out & buy said tool because its not where you thought it was in the toolbox, or ANYWHERE in the shop, only to find it after the job is done & after you bought the "new" tool

 

[rhino 2]

Whats even worse is getting into a job knowing you have the tool(s) to complete it, and then cannot find the specific tool you need and know you had before the job began.
Then you go out & buy said tool because its not where you thought it was in the toolbox, or ANYWHERE in the shop, only to find it after the job is done & after you bought the "new" tool

Yep.... But i usually find it at one of my Son's house...:cxtv: