Rear Brake Rotors for 2012 Triglide

the reality of this

I did contact NTSB via their website and reported the issue. I also wrote a letter to the MOCO. Their response was that since there have not been many Triglides sold, it did not make economic sense for them to lower the cost of the rotors!

Unless someone gets hurt and can prove known brake problem they will not budge off center. I don't want to be that person after the fact. :Shrug: I just want to fix the problem I'm getting closer. ride safely fearless
 
I did contact NTSB via their website and reported the issue. I also wrote a letter to the MOCO. Their response was that since there have not been many Triglides sold, it did not make economic sense for them to lower the cost of the rotors!


Not may SOLD????? Are u serious. These things are flyin out the dealer ... been to over 5 in last 6 mos - they cant even keep one on the floor to show.. they come in.. they leave.

Am i the only one seeing more and more of them ??? :confused:
 
I see more and more

:Agree: We see them all the time while we are out and about. And I'm not out a lot right now. Busy working on other things, like brake rotors. :gah: ride safely fearless
 
14-15-16 Rotor size(rear)?

I have tried to find out the diameter of wet head triglides rear rotors no success. Does anyone know what they are for sure? I would appreciate a little help. Thanks. :Shrug: ride safely fearless
 
14-15-16 Caliper has mounting bracket attached

Fearless is thinkin again ... gotta LOVE IT !! :cool:

Caliper and mount are one unit on 14-15-16 just like those on ford focus, next see if mount bolt spacing is same on axle mount on tri's just sayin :Shrug: ride safely fearless
 
Fearless is thinkin again ... gotta LOVE IT !! :cool:

Caliper and mount are one unit on 14-15-16 just like those on ford focus, next see if mount bolt spacing is same on axle mount on tri's just sayin :Shrug: ride safely fearless

Fearless, The bolt pattern is also the same for mounting the '14- '15 as on the '09-'13. But for the price of the caliper assm of $400 ea, there would also be a gain using the later parts with the 10.6" rotors. @ $190 a pair.
But if the Ford parts could be mounted also & had close to the same fluid capacity you might be on to something there.
I'm looking to see if Brembo might make a caliper also with a larger pad.
If a person looks at going over to the latest rear system including the whole rear system would be $1250 + misc. parts.
 
thanks for the info

Fearless, The bolt pattern is also the same for mounting the '14- '15 as on the '09-'13. But for the price of the caliper assm of $400 ea, there would also be a gain using the later parts with the 10.6" rotors. @ $190 a pair.
But if the Ford parts could be mounted also & had close to the same fluid capacity you might be on to something there.
I'm looking to see if Brembo might make a caliper also with a larger pad.
If a person looks at going over to the latest rear system including the whole rear system would be $1250 + misc. parts.

.
I'm sure the parts can be found for direct bolt on at a fraction the cost of The Motor Co
 
Good luck with that. :laugh:

83425-09B is a OEM kit which contains 2 of the newest hardened rotors for 2009-2013 trikes. It can be had for a reasonable price on-line. Add some EBC or Lyndall pads and you are in business.

Bob :)

I agree Bob. I run the EBC pads and have 20k on them. Mostly highway miles but a lot of hills and valleys on our trips. If you keep your eye on the pad wear with the updated rotors and EBC pads you should get 15 to 20k out of the pads. Rotors should still be good for another set of pads. I now have 30k on my 2013 original rotors and they are still good. The PADS make the difference. I have no problem locking up the rears in need be. Best braking occurs before lockup though.
 
Rotors, pads....

Fearless - u know im watchin yer progress ... no doubt....

ok... all good info last few posts... what if we add drilled rotors into the mix with the Lyndall or EBC pads?
 
sure

Fearless - u know im watchin yer progress ... no doubt....

ok... all good info last few posts... what if we add drilled rotors into the mix with the Lyndall or EBC pads?

I just want to make sure everything works with good rotors then change to slotted and drilled (very expensive). that is all in the plan.ThumbUpfearless
 
I just want to make sure everything works with good rotors then change to slotted and drilled (very expensive). that is all in the plan.ThumbUpfearless

ACTUALLY - if stock Focus parts work.. slotted and drilled stock rotors are only about $70 a pair ... not too bad. Keep it in mind. Cause if you can do it, it works, I go straight to the slotted and drilled ones. (well, wishful thinking anyway)
 
Brake rotors

ACTUALLY - if stock Focus parts work.. slotted and drilled stock rotors are only about $70 a pair ... not too bad. Keep it in mind. Cause if you can do it, it works, I go straight to the slotted and drilled ones. (well, wishful thinking anyway)
diameter may be a machined part made just a bit smaller
 
I can't remember who ..... and I thank the person who made these drawings. Please double check everything yourself before cutting. ThumbUp

Ford Focus rotor pic 1.jpgFord Focus rotor pic 2.jpg
 
Thanks I have those as well

Those came from a place with three rivers flowing all most as much as beer does. All in great fun I have in the past had my share of Iron City Lager. Ride safely fearless ThumbUp
 

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I can't remember who ..... and I thank the person who made these drawings. Please double check everything yourself before cutting. ThumbUp

View attachment 31425View attachment 31426

The only measurement that is missing & quite vital is the distance on the inside of the top hat from the surface that sits against the hub & the inside face where the pad brakes against.
It might make a difference where you remove metal from the rotor surface. How much on what side. Because that is what controls where the rotor sits in relation to the caliper.
One other consideration is the ring around the center hole. Does Harley have one? And what size? That has to fit inside of the wheel.
 
Me

I can't remember who ..... and I thank the person who made these drawings. Please double check everything yourself before cutting. ThumbUp

View attachment 31425View attachment 31426

That was me... :cool:

- - - Updated - - -

The only measurement that is missing & quite vital is the distance on the inside of the top hat from the surface that sits against the hub & the inside face where the pad brakes against.
It might make a difference where you remove metal from the rotor surface. How much on what side. Because that is what controls where the rotor sits in relation to the caliper.
One other consideration is the ring around the center hole. Does Harley have one? And what size? That has to fit inside of the wheel.

I thought I clarified this ..

notice the markings on the drawing say 'cut this side' ... or did I forget to add that... I have to review. I know I took that measurement, thus allowing me to be sure of those drawings. Everthing was compared side by side thanks to a gentleman from West by God who sent me his replaced/unusable rotor.

I checked ............ YES -- check the red/yellow highlighted 'X' ... machine from that side. unless my math and eyesight both went ... ?

AND BY ALL MEANS... if you find a mistake there in those drawings, PLEASE let me know...

im human most of the time ... its all about getting it right !!!
 
That was me... :cool:

- - - Updated - - -



I thought I clarified this ..

notice the markings on the drawing say 'cut this side' ... or did I forget to add that... I have to review. I know I took that measurement, thus allowing me to be sure of those drawings. Everthing was compared side by side thanks to a gentleman from West by God who sent me his replaced/unusable rotor.

I checked ............ YES -- check the red/yellow highlighted 'X' ... machine from that side. unless my math and eyesight both went ... ?

AND BY ALL MEANS... if you find a mistake there in those drawings, PLEASE let me know...

im human most of the time ... its all about getting it right !!!

You put the cut this side, but there is no measurement of the inside to the inside rotor surface.
If you measured that then great.
And also is the Harley rotor smooth around the center hole, or does it have the ring as the Ford rotor shows in the drawing? That lip serves a purpose of supporting the wheel to keep part of the pressure off the lugs. If Harley doesn't have it that could part of the problem of the lugs coming loose so easily. I don't have one off to check.
 
You put the cut this side, but there is no measurement of the inside to the inside rotor surface.
If you measured that then great.
And also is the Harley rotor smooth around the center hole, or does it have the ring as the Ford rotor shows in the drawing? That lip serves a purpose of supporting the wheel to keep part of the pressure off the lugs. If Harley doesn't have it that could part of the problem of the lugs coming loose so easily. I don't have one off to check.

Yes it has the center hole - I think that's what your asking ... and it measures the same as the HD rotor hole.
 
Yes it has the center hole - I think that's what your asking ... and it measures the same as the HD rotor hole.

No, not just the hole in the center, but the raised ring around the hole. I don't know if the HD rotor has the raised ring or not, but it is shown on the ford rotor. Actually it is a good idea as it takes part of the impact off the lug bolts by supporting the wheel somewhat. And centers the wheel with the rotor. It can also be a recessed ring.
But if there is one on the Ford rotor, & none on the Harley rotor You would have to cut it off, or machine the matching relief into the wheel to go over it.

attachment.php
 
No, not just the hole in the center, but the raised ring around the hole. I don't know if the HD rotor has the raised ring or not, but it is shown on the ford rotor. Actually it is a good idea as it takes part of the impact off the lug bolts by supporting the wheel somewhat. And centers the wheel with the rotor. It can also be a recessed ring.
But if there is one on the Ford rotor, & none on the Harley rotor You would have to cut it off, or machine the matching relief into the wheel to go over it.

ok... the HD rotor has no 'raised ring' in the center, nor is it recessed. Now the hub on the TG obviously has the raised portion in the middle that fits on the rotor. Id have to see a pic of what you are talking about, I may still be confused .... OR maybe ill post some pics of the HD rotor I have. let me dig it out, it can only help.
 
ok... the HD rotor has no 'raised ring' in the center, nor is it recessed. Now the hub on the TG obviously has the raised portion in the middle that fits on the rotor. Id have to see a pic of what you are talking about, I may still be confused .... OR maybe ill post some pics of the HD rotor I have. let me dig it out, it can only help.

If you will take the time to just look at the pix you have posted in this thread it is obvious in the right picture. In fact I copied your picture into my last post.
Look at the right picture & the ring I am referring to is obvious. But I think after searching online for an actual picture the ring is actually a recessed ring.
By the way, EBC also makes drilled & drilled & grooved rotors. Also an upgrade rotor that is finned in the center. All for the Focus.
 
If you will take the time to just look at the pix you have posted in this thread it is obvious in the right picture. In fact I copied your picture into my last post.
Look at the right picture & the ring I am referring to is obvious. But I think after searching online for an actual picture the ring is actually a recessed ring.
By the way, EBC also makes drilled & drilled & grooved rotors. Also an upgrade rotor that is finned in the center. All for the Focus.

Yes i saw those at one point also ... but remember .. these rotors off the Focus are REAR rotors. Seems if memory serves me correct - front rotors are vented, but the rears on the Focus are solid as the drawing.
 
Vented are available but!

Yes i saw those at one point also ... but remember .. these rotors off the Focus are REAR rotors. Seems if memory serves me correct - front rotors are vented, but the rears on the Focus are solid as the drawing.

\\\\\\

If you want vented rotors you will be also changing Calipers as well which is probably the way to go. It can be done working on the number now. ThumbUp ride safely fearless
 
\\\\\\

If you want vented rotors you will be also changing Calipers as well which is probably the way to go. It can be done working on the number now. ThumbUp ride safely fearless

yeah but still nothin definite on your end correct ?

I think if you do get it done, i might just have to ride up to Clarion and check things out ...
 

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