What did you do to Your Tri-Glide Today?

Modifications over three winters

Not today, but the last winters I did some things on my 2015 TGU (the list is missing the optical trimming)

Thanks for the inspiration!

Winter 16/17:

  • Baker Reverse - what a great piece of hardware!
  • Mid-Step - best accessory ever
  • Tourpack relocation kit
  • DK Comfort Lift Kit - good, but could be better, with better suspension
  • Wind Splitter windshield

Winter 17/18:

  • SE259E cam - more torque, some more HP
  • Penzl exhaust, deep mellow sound, with step less volume control :D
  • Oil cooler with fan

Winter 18/19:

  • Stage 1 intake - wow, what a grunt
  • Wilbers springs and oil in the fork - taut but still sensible
  • Legend Gear Lift Kit and Air Suspension - nice height, more comfortable but taut
  • Reinforced clutch (original dead after 19“ miles)
  • Rocker locker

Now I think it is finished.

The bike is now very agile (important here on the Europe roads) but still comfortable and has a good pull from low rpms and a great additional push over 3000.

Probably the BMW GS hunting on windy mountain roads was the reason for the early death of the clutch (the 2 weeks in Norway were a torture for motor, clutch and suspension).

Hopefully now I’m better prepared for Scotland this year.

Today at the Sudelfeld

750_0056.jpg
 
Wes, I would keep an eye on that seat knob and make sure it stays tight. I had something similar on a VTX several years ago and could not keep it tight (never tried blue lock tight) and finally lost it somewhere. Hope this one is better than what I had then. Keep us posted, if it works for you, I may try one. I like the idea.

Thanks for looking out! I'll be sure to check it a couple times weekly over the next month ensure it stays tight. Hopefully, it works out.....if not may have to try Fuzzy's tried and proven seat screw mod.


I like it!! If mine doesn't out, will go-to your mod.
 
Has anyone used one of these along with the Tour Pak relocation kit all the way back? I'm wondering if my wife were to slide all the way back for a change of location....well that might be a bit intrusive if ya know what I mean. Could hurt a lot.

Happy to report that I haven't had anyone have any actual experience with the condition you describe. My conditions are a bit different; the Relocation Kit I used only provides the Tour Pak with a two inch max move to the rear. Also my Ultimate Tall Boy Seat is one inch longer than the stock seat. But I'm thinking that given the thickness and forward curvature of the passenger backrest, it would be quite difficult for my passenger to actually sit upright and then have a certain part of their derriere directly above my extended seat knob.
 
Just placed an order for a K&N Rain Sock for the HiFlow 606 Air Cleaner.

Now I have to go out and to button up the trike under the carport. Weather forecasts for the next fours days are calling for severe thunderstorms with high probability of tornadic activity. Torrential rainfall and high flood conditions. Sounds like we're in for monsoon like conditions too!!

No boat....and can't swim either.:gah:
 
Has anyone used one of these along with the Tour Pak relocation kit all the way back? I'm wondering if my wife were to slide all the way back for a change of location....well that might be a bit intrusive if ya know what I mean. Could hurt a lot.

We have our TP relocated back the full 3" and the thumbscrew is well below the top of the seat and the top surface of the trunk body that is 1/2" away from the thumbscrew.

Even though our sheepskin pretty much fills in that empty space between the back of the seat and the relocated TP, I've asked Mary if she wants the filler pad that goes in that space. She says her butt never goes back that far, even with the TP relocated, it stays on the seat.

Kevin
 

Fuzzy...With the Mighty Mites it seems most are not using the frame mounting option and just going off the horn. So..3 questions:

1: Obviously you feel the smaller "Mites" offer plenty of cooling as opposed to the Big Honking Love Jugs? {I hate that look}

2: Frame v/s horn mount...which way did you go?

3: Wired....Battery or the accessory switch...and if switched...is it stupid simple....I hate electrical....Thanks
 
We cleaned love bugs off the bike after our ride today, they are just starting to come out, looks like we're done riding for about 2 weeks till they're done having fun. Nasty little buggers, very acidic, need to get them off right away.
 

Thank you very much brother...we seem to be on the same page, it's why I asked. I am hoping that they will also help when in traffic...we are going to Utah, and a Buttload of the national parks. I'd be foolish to believe we are going to be able to pull right up and head in {even tho we are "Planning" on early entry to try and beat some of the traffic} Never really had a heat issue, I try and plan around traffic times. Thinking this time it won't work! lol
 

Thanks Fuzz...All three are on our list as is driving thru Grand Junction. I'll give ya a holler and if you are available, I can have my wife buy us an adult beverage! jc
 

Answers: 1) No. ACC does not work without fob present, UNLESS you turn them on while the fob is present, then walk away (which would be kinda dumb).

And 2) No. Unless the item that is hooked up to it is already fused, which you could splice in a fuse if there isn't one. Amp rating, I have no idea. Mine runs my fans quite well and has never had a problem. I just leave the switch 'on'. My fans are the old Ward's Fans. I will be going immediately to Mighty Mites from Zook whenever these finally decide to take a dump.
 

Our trikes will turn on power but won't immediately start without the FOB being present. But the Security System will Flash "Enter PIIN" in the odometer for us to use the FOB Bypass procedure and our 5-digit PIN. If it's not entered, our headlight will not turn on. The display window will also go out if no PIN input is made. The ignition will stay disabled until the FOB shows up.

I don't use the fork lock position anymore, after switch not unlocking once and a tow to the dealer. I still lock the Ignition Switch, but only with the front forks and wheel straight ahead. This way no one can prank me by turning my ignition on and walking away. Plus with my Mighty Mites, Driving Lights and Auxiliary Lamps all controlled by the dash switches; if I've switched them off, then there'd be less drain on the battery anyway, if the ignition were somehow able to be turned on.

Surprisingly, my brain cells retained a few things after readiing the Owners Manual several times during an 8 week surgical recovery last year. Was so disgusted I couldn't ride...so I read.:(
 

That's really good info! What's been frustrating for me is, I've been trying to find a "Y" type connector/harness that allows us to connect to that accessory connector left side cover and give two of the same connection points. Right now the Auxiliary Power Switch Kit's harness that's connected there allows me connections for two electronics, but I loss the ability to connect my heated seat to the accessory connector.

So far dealer parts guys haven't been able to find a "Y" type cable/harness for that connector. My search is still on....
 

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