Stallion repeat dump

2006gold

950+ Posts
Jun 11, 2013
792
532
DFW, TX
Name
Gary
Got the coolant leaked stopped. Now, just as I was pulling into the garage, it sputtered, spit, died and although it will turn over it will not start. Thinking fuel or ignition. Ideas? And I wanted to take it out on a ride this weekend!!
 
LIS19380nopkg.jpg


Gary, get 1 of these, about 10.00. You just lay it on the end of the plug wire, if you have ignition it will light up

This way you can rule out the ignition. This is made by Lisle tools, Sears and many Auto stores carry it.
 
When ever i have an engine that cranks but won't start, I use the caveman way of seeing if its a fuel [lack of] problem i give it a shot of starting fluid in the throttle /carb intake if it kicks over then its a fuel problem...
 
When ever i have an engine that cranks but won't start, I use the caveman way of seeing if its a fuel [lack of] problem i give it a shot of starting fluid in the throttle /carb intake if it kicks over then its a fuel problem...

Fuel is nearly full. Fuel pump, maybe? Be looking for my spark tester tomorrow. Should have at least one left over from when I was in the OPE business. Just have to find it amongst all the stuff in the garage. May just have it towed to my auto repair guy or he might come get the thing.
 
LIS19380nopkg.jpg


Gary, get 1 of these, about 10.00 You just lay it on the end of the plug wire, if you have ignition it will light up.

This way you can rule out the ignition. This is made by Lisle tools, Sears and many Auto stores carry it.

I'll get if I can't find one in all my stuff. thanks.
 
FIRST Also look under the hood at the air intake, if it cracked the MAS shuts the fuel off. If that is the case I posted a fix for that in the Stallion section. That was the same thing that happen when mine broke. I'm betting on that.

Have you changed the fuel filter? If I remember correctly the fuel pump is in the gas tank.
 
Have you tried the bump cutoff button under the seat by the fuse block? (Not sure if that is the correct name.) It has a red cap on it. I have had it pop out on me. Just push it down and see if it resets. Rick

Will do, Thanks
 
Have you tried the bump cutoff button under the seat by the fuse block? (Not sure if that is the correct name.) It has a red cap on it. I have had it pop out on me. Just push it down and see if it resets. Rick

This should be your first check and one finger fix! Red button under the seat towards the right side.

Tomg
 
rocket1if and tomg were right! Finally got a minute to check the button. It was out. Reset and the unit started right up. Thanks guys.
 
Probably overheated enough that it threw a code & went into limp mode. Gotta have a scanner to clear the code & turn the light off on that one (won't go off on its own).
 
Showing code P1299. Also, seems the shifter lockout isn't working, have to manually push the button in to shift out of park.
 
Good. I can just have my mechanic reset the code. The unit most definitely got hot a couple of times. Thanks.
 
Well, since I can't PM Trike Tech, I'll just put it here and maybe someone has the answer. Coolant problem repaired, check engine light reset. Now, the switch allowing the shifter out of park, and the radiator fan motor have quit. Fan motor will not work even if the add on switch is turned on. Hat trick.
 
Well, since I can't PM Trike Tech, I'll just put it here and maybe someone has the answer. Coolant problem repaired, check engine light reset. Now, the switch allowing the shifter out of park, and the radiator fan motor have quit. Fan motor will not work even if the add on switch is turned on. Hat trick.

The Engine Coolant Temperature switch that can also be found at your local Auto Parts Store. The switch is known for failing prematurely if over-torqued. (Simply install thread tape on it, and snug it up. DO NOT OVER-TORQUE! ) The Stallion is powered by a 2.3L Ford engine, so therefore the replacement sensor is based off of the OEM specs (which is 180 Degrees). Simply take yours out and go match one up at the store that has the same specs and the same threads. If you are in the middle of a trip, simply take the blue wire that is connected to it, and ground it out. This will manually turn your cooling (radiator) fan on. The fan will now be controlled by the ignition switch, so it will stay on as long as the key is on. Like said in previous posts, the fan will also run while the A/C is on.

If your fan fails to run regardless, then suspect faulty Cooling Fan Relay (Inside Engine Bay on newer models, by Backrest Seat support located under the seat on older models), Fan problems, or Wiring Issue. I have seen all of these issues many times, although Sensor located in front of tire was main cause more frequently than others. On newer bikes, there was a Wiring Harness upgrade, and there were minor problems with under-rated fuse being used for Cooling Fan. Originally it was a 20A, then updated to a 30A, which corrected the problem.

I dunno about the shifter problem, If this is also a Ford set up some had a shift interlock solenoid
 
This is in the Archives

Just a note if someone runs across the Shift lever being locked in Park issue. Until you get it fixed, just leave the lever in (N) and apply the parking brake. To get it out of Park: if you open the front hood, look at the backside of the gear selection mechanism on the inside, side of the mechanism you should see a plunger type part. Push this in while reaching around and move the lever out of Park to (R). NOTE PLEASE NOT DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. You will need the key in the ON position, but DO NOT START the trike, until you are on it and can have the brake applied after you have it out of (P). This will get you going and keep you going until it gets repaired. This is related to the stop light problem also, but not the same. The stop light switch does multiple funchions, light the lights and also allow the gear lever to move.
 
This is in the Archives

Just a note if someone runs across the Shift lever being locked in Park issue. Until you get it fixed, just leave the lever in (N) and apply the parking brake. To get it out of Park: if you open the front hood, look at the backside of the gear selection mechanism on the inside, side of the mechanism you should see a plunger type part. Push this in while reaching around and move the lever out of Park to (R). NOTE PLEASE NOT DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. You will need the key in the ON position, but DO NOT START the trike, until you are on it and can have the brake applied after you have it out of (P). This will get you going and keep you going until it gets repaired. This is related to the stop light problem also, but not the same. The stop light switch does multiple funchions, light the lights and also allow the gear lever to move.

had the same trouble i used Duck tape around the plunger till i replaced the brake switch which causes it not to engage when keys on and your foot is on the brake peddle
 
Feel the need to jump in on this topic/discussion.

First/foremost - I would NOT recommend leaving the vehicle in neutral when parking it. I know this can work in a pinch, but if something goes wrong you may be in a world of headache. Imagine if the brake didn't hold & it rolled into another vehicle or someone & the investigator/insurance company discovered when you left the vehicle you placed it in neutral instead of park (lot of things I don't care for about the world we're living in & potential liability is a big one in my book).

#2 - On the Stallion (along with multiple other automobiles) have a shift interlock bypass (most commonly used in vehicle repairs), see image below. Use your key (or screwdriver) & remove the cover plate that covers the interlock bypass, you can then use a key, screwdriver, etc to push down the bypass switch to to disengage the interlock solenoid to take the vehicle out of park. You will have to manually do this each time you want to take out of park.

Capture.JPG
 

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