Stallion Parts & Maintenance Reference

I have been thinking about replacing mine with the xeono lights. It sounds like the are brighter and take less wattage. Also thinking about replaceing the headlights with them, it looks like they will fit but will have to make a new bracket to hold them.
 
I have been thinking about replacing mine with the xeono lights. It sounds like the are brighter and take less wattage. Also thinking about replaceing the headlights with them, it looks like they will fit but will have to make a new bracket to hold them.

If you do please post some how to do pictures and instructions please.
 
I was wondering if anyone has loose calipers on their Stallion? I can move them approximately 1/16 to 1/8". That movement causes a banging noise makes it sound like something is falling off the front end.
 
well suggest that you start trouble shooting. Look to see if you have power to the bulbs with the switch on. Check for a blown fuse. If factory switch is bad suggest just wiring them with a replacement switch. The bulbs can be replaced in the housing. You have to solder the wires in but it beats buying new lights. I believe the buld is a H-3 100 watt. I would suggest substituting with 50 w they last a lot longer and the difference in light is not that much.

hi! I got a blown left bulb after just one day! How do I get the bulb out of the base? I don't want to force it and have it shatter!
 
hi! I got a blown left bulb after just one day! How do I get the bulb out of the base? I don't want to force it and have it shatter!

You have to take it apart. I believe there are 4 screws to remove and it all comes apart. You will have to cut and solder the wires to the new bulb wires.
 
I had to fix mt fog lights. Fuse was good, relay was good. The problem was in the headlight switch, After taking apart the switch I found a tiny white micro switch located in the cricut board was dirty and sticking. The black center post inside the switch makes it work when pulled out. I cleaned it good with electronic contact cleaner and it fixed the problem.
 
Re: Stallion Parts & Maintenance Reference _ foglights & radio/CD player

I had to fix mt fog lights. Fuse was good, relay was good. The problem was in the headlight switch, After taking apart the switch I found a tiny white micro switch located in the cricut board was dirty and sticking. The black center post inside the switch makes it work when pulled out. I cleaned it good with electronic contact cleaner and it fixed the problem.

My foglights would intermittently switch on and off AFTER THE ENGINE WAS TURNED OFF. Eventually drained the battery.
Thanks for the heads-up! I will check it out.:)
-------------
BTW: another issue - Does ANYONE know if the radio/CD in the trunk should 'power off' when you turn it off from the dashboard control, OR, does it remain in a 'power-on standby' mode until wanted?:confused:
 
Re: Stallion Shock Absorbers

I thought I read in the maintenance thread about someone having issues with their shock absorbers. It's interesting I can go to either side of my Stallion and raise it about an 1" or 2" by hand. If anyone has or had this problem please let me know. Plus does anyone know what the replacement shock absorbers are for the trike?

Thanks
John
 
Hello
I just replaced my front shocks because the rubber
mounting bushings on the shock were wearing out
and allowed the shock itself to contact the swing arm
almost wearing a hole in the shock. the new shocks have different
mounts. as for shocks they are made for stallion, you have to get them
from TBMS

Dragon
 
Loose steering.

I'm experiencing play (where the steering wheel will turn a little either direction before the tire responds) The play seems to be in the steering rack and pinion. There doesn't appear to any loose motion any where else in the steering system. The front wheel bearings appear to be in good condition.
 
first welcome aboard. second stallions do not have rack and pinion steering. what you may want to look at is the steering head bearings. I expect if you take the triple trees apart the bearings need replacement and the whole head re-greased, that will tighten up your situation and you will be surprised at how well it steers. do not hold back on the grease.
 
I'm experiencing play (where the steering wheel will turn a little either direction before the tire responds) The play seems to be in the steering rack and pinion. There doesn't appear to any loose motion any where else in the steering system. The front wheel bearings appear to be in good condition.

There is actually an adjustment on the steering box. It is hard to see, and very tricky to adjust. You will see a slotted screw protruding from the gear box with a jam nut on it. You won't be able to get anything on the slot. What I did was to start another narrow nut on the threads and run it almost to the original jam nut, then back back it off against the temporary nut, then you will be able to turn the adjustment portion. I believe the adjustment screw is a 5/16" fine thread.
 
Thanks

first welcome aboard. second stallions do not have rack and pinion steering. what you may want to look at is the steering head bearings. I expect if you take the triple trees apart the bearings need replacement and the whole head re-greased, that will tighten up your situation and you will be surprised at how well it steers. do not hold back on the grease.

Thanks, for the welcome.

- - - Updated - - -

There is actually an adjustment on the steering box. It is hard to see, and very tricky to adjust. You will see a slotted screw protruding from the gear box with a jam nut on it. You won't be able to get anything on the slot. What I did was to start another narrow nut on the threads and run it almost to the original jam nut, then back back it off against the temporary nut, then you will be able to turn the adjustment portion. I believe the adjustment screw is a 5/16" fine thread.

Sorry for the incorrect terminology. When I young the people I knew referred to the steering gear box, as a steering sector.

I just accepted it.

A couple of questions.

1. Do you know what car TMS used for the Stallion steering gear box.

2. Did you have a similar problem.
 
Need to know where to get parts?

Hi all my Dad passed going on two years now, and i became the owner of a stallion.. ive been working on it doing some things that need done. 2009 is the year... I need parts, as i have no idea where to start looking for them. I knocked the left front rear view mirror off the other day and broke the amber lens for it. Any ideas on that for starters. I have read on the front brakes and changing them. I see two different ways on here, and if its possible to not/ take the front wheel of i would prefer that. And from what im seeing brake pads are from a toyota fj cruiser. Is this correct and i think it means the ones from the back of the toyota. i just need to know where to get parts for this thing. It was my dads baby and i want to do it right..... please help
 
Ted, you do know that the back rest for a '13 is different from out 08/09. Ours had a much larger support post than the '13. Tom

Yes I do Tom. I have one of the newer design when they sent me the wrong one.
 
Removing front wheel

Silver Devel, you did more steps than necessary to remove the front wheel. I am going on thirteen years with my Stallion and I have done it a few times. I learn something every time!!! Thanks.

the tools needed to change out the front tire on the Stallion

go to page 49 in the little Stallion Manual and follow the steps up to step #5 on page 52.

the following is some of the steps from the manual WITH the TOOLS added.

REMOVING YOUR FRONT WHEEL

ON PAGE 49 AND 50

ITEM # 5 ON PAGE 50

REMOVE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS

( ALLEN HEAD SCREWS)

8mm ALLEN WRENCH

ITEM # 6 ON PAGE 50

LOOSEN THE FOUR PINCH BOLTS

3/16" ALLEN WRENCH ON BOLTS

7/16" WRENCH ON NUTS

ITEM # 9 ON PAGE 50

LOOSEN CALIPER SLIDE BOLTS

22mm SOCKET OR 7/8" SOCKET

ITEM # 10 ON PAGE 50

REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER STRUT.

14mm NUTS ON BOTH ENDS.

7/32" BOLT ON FORK TUBE END. (ALLEN HEAD)

ITEM # 11 1/2 (NOT LISTED)

TO REMOVE THE FRAME THAT HOLDS

THE BRAKE CALIPER USE A

7/32" ALLEN WRENCH

ITEM # 12 SLIDE THE AXLE OUT

30mm WRENCH OR SOCKET

THE SWING ARM THAT THE AXLE GOES THRU

AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FORK TUBE USE

6mm ALLEN ON THE BOLT AND USE

17mm OR 11/16" WRENCH ON THE NUT

TOOLS NEEDED

6mm, 8mm, 3/16, 7/32" ALLEN WRENCH

14mm, 17mm, 7/16" WRENCH (REGULAR)

IN PLACE OF THE 17mm YOU CAN USE

A 11/16" WRENCH

30mm SOCKET OR WRENCH FOR AXLE NUTS

22mm OR 7/8" SOCKET (MUST BE SOCKET) # 9


hope this answers your questions on what tools are needed

I did not change out the bearings, the wheel bearings just need lube added, a good wheel bearing grease.
 
where can I buy snap on side curtains for my stallion david

Check out this thread I posted a few years ago. There is a link to B&G upholstery who use to make them, but I don't know if they are still in business. Also shown are pictures of some I made a few years ago and I prefer them over the canvas ones I have seen. I do not run them in the summer as it gets pretty hot with the side curtains holding the heat in. Here is the thread:

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/39861-Side-Curtains
 

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