Rebel RT
- Thread starter TomyJ
- Start date
personally i would go with a taller seat height people have a hard enough time seeing us as it is
True that, being to low to the ground does have disadvantages on the road way's.
I thought it was just to low for a comfortable ride position, but I am a small person, so it kinda looked good for a larger person, just what I seen. Not a lot of fiberglass work for me, but I have done some, and very interested in watching you work and how it can be done. Maybe I will learn more about this area.
Thanks for sharing this project with the site.
I thought it was just to low for a comfortable ride position, but I am a small person, so it kinda looked good for a larger person, just what I seen. Not a lot of fiberglass work for me, but I have done some, and very interested in watching you work and how it can be done. Maybe I will learn more about this area.
Thanks for sharing this project with the site.
oh yes, that started years ago, two tool box's. One is full of standard sockets and wrench's, the other is all metric that I have gotten over the years.I am actually amazed at how many times I have used this 33mm socket I got years ago, at the time I thought spend this $ for a one time need! Crazy, but all has paid for itself in the long run.So is the Rebel going to be metric and standard size's ? Sounds like this will be fun for sure.
When flea marketing, I look for the tools and clean out the metric stuff. Never can have too many 10 mm stuff.
- Thread starter
- #189
RebelRouser
Thank you guy's, you are so right, I went from building hot rods to muscle car rebuilding and they both priced me out and the tools were not metric so here I go with Harbor Freight 12 point impact sockets (20% off heeheehee). I have the DeWalt impact wrench I used on independent suspensions and a hand held (smack it with a hammer) Allen head bits with cross point bit.
Thank you guy's, you are so right, I went from building hot rods to muscle car rebuilding and they both priced me out and the tools were not metric so here I go with Harbor Freight 12 point impact sockets (20% off heeheehee). I have the DeWalt impact wrench I used on independent suspensions and a hand held (smack it with a hammer) Allen head bits with cross point bit.
That does sound about right. It just seems to work out that way most the time. It does look good setting there, all is coming along nicely.
not to hi jack your thread TomyJ, but can you take a look at this and advise me any if possible.
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/50820-Before-I?p=664366&posted=1#post664366
Thanks
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/50820-Before-I?p=664366&posted=1#post664366
Thanks
Fill me in if I am wrong about doing this. Okay from what I have gathered there are a few possible ways of attching the fender to the metal support arms.
After the uprights are made I will work the inside area of the fender were all mounts, can attach using super adhesive, or by rivets. Once that is done that I can work the fiberglass and cloth over the metal, sandwich the metal, and after all is dry it should be good to go. Oh if I drill some holes in the mounting area of the metal than more resin will in case it, or is that short cut fiber hair what I want to use when matting the two surfaces together?
The other way was to use 18 gauge metal and bend it to the inside shape of fender and attach it to the fender. The idea was it would be more workable and form to the fender easier, in turn should make a good solid attached bracket. Now I can just screw the fender and bracket onto the upright supports.
I would like to do it the most secure way, so does individual upright supports screwed to fender bracket provide more solidness in the set up, or does a upright support attached solid to fender provide more ? first is 3 pieces and the later method would be all one piece. Yes one has to put the fender over the tire and on the spacers and than slide the axle thru it all. Just looking for the better method I guess as either does work.
Thank you for the help and input on the matter.
After the uprights are made I will work the inside area of the fender were all mounts, can attach using super adhesive, or by rivets. Once that is done that I can work the fiberglass and cloth over the metal, sandwich the metal, and after all is dry it should be good to go. Oh if I drill some holes in the mounting area of the metal than more resin will in case it, or is that short cut fiber hair what I want to use when matting the two surfaces together?
The other way was to use 18 gauge metal and bend it to the inside shape of fender and attach it to the fender. The idea was it would be more workable and form to the fender easier, in turn should make a good solid attached bracket. Now I can just screw the fender and bracket onto the upright supports.
I would like to do it the most secure way, so does individual upright supports screwed to fender bracket provide more solidness in the set up, or does a upright support attached solid to fender provide more ? first is 3 pieces and the later method would be all one piece. Yes one has to put the fender over the tire and on the spacers and than slide the axle thru it all. Just looking for the better method I guess as either does work.
Thank you for the help and input on the matter.
- Thread starter
- #195
cant put a joggle in the bracket?
Did something shift during the move ? Bummer if the vertical frame is off and if it can not be corrected, I am with "can't you joggle the mount brackets so they hide the vertical offset ? It is your project and I am sure you already have an idea on how to correct it all. Hope it does not set you back to far on your progress.
- Thread starter
- #202
RebelRouser
Carb is centered
so the 1" steel frame is centered to the carb but not to the lower frame it is about 1/4" off, so now the air cleaner with offset is a little to close on the inside, and the left side is almost touching the side engine cover, maybe 3/4" steel sq. tubing or??? More measurements coming...
Carb is centered
so the 1" steel frame is centered to the carb but not to the lower frame it is about 1/4" off, so now the air cleaner with offset is a little to close on the inside, and the left side is almost touching the side engine cover, maybe 3/4" steel sq. tubing or??? More measurements coming...- Thread starter
- #203
RebelRouser
OK! HELP, I'm thinking the frame (Vert.) between the lower and upper should be one piece and not two, I will make a circle of 3/4 solid steel around the carb/air cleaner to the upper piece, should I run a straight out air cleaner or 90 degrees? I would like all viewers to weigh in please???
And the PVC elbo will be red...EDIT: I need as much room with the lower vert. frame for the seat attachment and to clear the rear fender/tire.
OK! HELP, I'm thinking the frame (Vert.) between the lower and upper should be one piece and not two, I will make a circle of 3/4 solid steel around the carb/air cleaner to the upper piece, should I run a straight out air cleaner or 90 degrees? I would like all viewers to weigh in please???
And the PVC elbo will be red...EDIT: I need as much room with the lower vert. frame for the seat attachment and to clear the rear fender/tire.think i would build the frame around the back of the filter and use the upright as shown
i think it would tough to fit the square tube to the 3/4 round to make it look presentable and strong
i think it would b easier to cut 2 ovals then a band to make the inside an 1 for the outside... like making an oval from tubing
sketch i hope is self explanatory..
Attachments
It does look good TommyJ, nut cracker it is, or a chest opener.
I would choose the air breather design that allow's access the easiest. Bring it out and down seems to take more distance and brings it closer to the rider, or is it my eye's ?
The look of the breather attached directly to the intake looked the shortest to me, and it does put it up to be a chest crusher. So this is a designer's call to me, it is what you are after that counts.
That vertical and motor mount tab is a nut buster for sure and makes me week between the knee's.
Top bad we could not flare the seat at that end and bring it up over that area, just enough so it would not allow the rider to slide, slam, up against that vertical bar.
This may require a custom seat to make all look right and function at it's best. Do you still have chain clearance under the seat ?
I would choose the air breather design that allow's access the easiest. Bring it out and down seems to take more distance and brings it closer to the rider, or is it my eye's ?
The look of the breather attached directly to the intake looked the shortest to me, and it does put it up to be a chest crusher. So this is a designer's call to me, it is what you are after that counts.
That vertical and motor mount tab is a nut buster for sure and makes me week between the knee's.
Top bad we could not flare the seat at that end and bring it up over that area, just enough so it would not allow the rider to slide, slam, up against that vertical bar.
This may require a custom seat to make all look right and function at it's best. Do you still have chain clearance under the seat ?
- Thread starter
- #207
RebelRouser
Thanks GPS,
Straight edge for the top of the chain, now what is that going to do with the carb and seat?
For every action there is a reaction...:gah: EDIT: Did you notice the new welder 220/110 stick, Home Depot, I/4" plate, we will see...
Thanks GPS,
Straight edge for the top of the chain, now what is that going to do with the carb and seat?For every action there is a reaction...:gah: EDIT: Did you notice the new welder 220/110 stick, Home Depot, I/4" plate, we will see...That is so true.
You can raise the seat higher, but that might interfer with the center of gravity in cornering, unless you as the rider like to shift your own body weight from side to side. Oh crap, did I ever wonder on my bike years ago. I am small and it took alot of work sometimes to keep in the corner, and yes I over shot a few of them and survived it.
So if you want to keep seat as low as possible, than one would have to make the base from steel or something strong. You can use what you have and just modify the areas needed to create the prototype, I like the look of it, but rider size matters. Me a thin long seat works, a Fat Boy seat swallows me up.
My mind says make the seat wider and deeper so it sits over the chain and covers it up like the "old chain guards" on our pedal bikes. Maybe have it tube like over the chain on the left side and attach to the lower support beams.
I think this is enough for you to activate ideas with, or enough for you tell me to push off, LOL
Really hope my mind is not out in left field guys, thinking out of the box and trying to be helpful, so I think.
You can raise the seat higher, but that might interfer with the center of gravity in cornering, unless you as the rider like to shift your own body weight from side to side. Oh crap, did I ever wonder on my bike years ago. I am small and it took alot of work sometimes to keep in the corner, and yes I over shot a few of them and survived it.
So if you want to keep seat as low as possible, than one would have to make the base from steel or something strong. You can use what you have and just modify the areas needed to create the prototype, I like the look of it, but rider size matters. Me a thin long seat works, a Fat Boy seat swallows me up.
My mind says make the seat wider and deeper so it sits over the chain and covers it up like the "old chain guards" on our pedal bikes. Maybe have it tube like over the chain on the left side and attach to the lower support beams.
I think this is enough for you to activate ideas with, or enough for you tell me to push off, LOL
Really hope my mind is not out in left field guys, thinking out of the box and trying to be helpful, so I think.
Welcome to the Trike Talk Community
Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe
Forum statistics
Share this page
