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Yeah, me too.
Yep, making memories!
Yes, this whole trip has been great. Even riding that stretch was fun...but it had a really weird feel about it.
Pic Heavy Ride Report - MS to Bella Coola & Back 11,000 Miles Heat, Hail & Bears
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Yeah, me too.
Yep, making memories!
Yes, this whole trip has been great. Even riding that stretch was fun...but it had a really weird feel about it.
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Day 24
Today is The Day!
This is our furthest point from home. This is the place that Mary has been excited about going to since we first started planning the trip. After Bella Coola we are going to turn around and start the ride back home.
Woke up to a sunny morning in Nimpo Lake. Looking out from the cabin porch.
Out the window of the cabin...yep, TG is still there.
By the time we got packed up, some cloud cover had moved in...rode down to the lakes' edge as we were leaving.
This is where we stayed. Super nice cabin, full kitchen, plenty of room, great views, $100, and the folks running it were great also. We did make reservations a couple of months in advance. We'll also be staying here on the way back out of Bella Coola, a couple of days from now.
To give a bit of an idea of how different it is up here. Last night when we bought dinner supplies, gas and lunch supplies at the store...the same place where we also rented the cabin. When we went to pay, they said not to bother, we'd settle up when we came back thru since we were staying another night in the cabin in a couple of days. They had no credit card on file, our reservation was just our name, address and phone number.
Where we live out in the country in Mississippi, some places still do that for folks they know, but not total strangers. Way different up here!
This pic cracks me up. Mary took it of herself as we were starting toward Bella Coola.
She has been all hot to go there from day one, and the last few days she has asked if I still really wanted to go. lol I told her if she did not want to, we wouldn't...she does, just a bit nervous.
When I first saw the videos I realized that if some vehicle came around one of the blind corners fast, where there was not enough room for 2 vehicles, I would have to override my natural reaction to avoid them...because avoiding them would mean going off the cliff. More than a few people have died that way. I know if it happens, I will turn toward the mountain side, regardless of if it means getting hit or not...I am not going off the edge.
Leaving Nimpo Lake the road was asphalt for the first few miles...and there were fences, but all the horses (and there were a bunch) were outside the fences.
After Anahim Lake, the road turned to dirt/gravel.
For the most part it is very well maintained...
...it had not rained, the water truck had already been down the road to keep the dust down.
This is a really fun road!
More in next post.
Today is The Day!
This is our furthest point from home. This is the place that Mary has been excited about going to since we first started planning the trip. After Bella Coola we are going to turn around and start the ride back home.
Woke up to a sunny morning in Nimpo Lake. Looking out from the cabin porch.
Out the window of the cabin...yep, TG is still there.
By the time we got packed up, some cloud cover had moved in...rode down to the lakes' edge as we were leaving.
This is where we stayed. Super nice cabin, full kitchen, plenty of room, great views, $100, and the folks running it were great also. We did make reservations a couple of months in advance. We'll also be staying here on the way back out of Bella Coola, a couple of days from now.
To give a bit of an idea of how different it is up here. Last night when we bought dinner supplies, gas and lunch supplies at the store...the same place where we also rented the cabin. When we went to pay, they said not to bother, we'd settle up when we came back thru since we were staying another night in the cabin in a couple of days. They had no credit card on file, our reservation was just our name, address and phone number.
Where we live out in the country in Mississippi, some places still do that for folks they know, but not total strangers. Way different up here!
This pic cracks me up. Mary took it of herself as we were starting toward Bella Coola.
She has been all hot to go there from day one, and the last few days she has asked if I still really wanted to go. lol I told her if she did not want to, we wouldn't...she does, just a bit nervous.
When I first saw the videos I realized that if some vehicle came around one of the blind corners fast, where there was not enough room for 2 vehicles, I would have to override my natural reaction to avoid them...because avoiding them would mean going off the cliff. More than a few people have died that way. I know if it happens, I will turn toward the mountain side, regardless of if it means getting hit or not...I am not going off the edge.
Leaving Nimpo Lake the road was asphalt for the first few miles...and there were fences, but all the horses (and there were a bunch) were outside the fences.
After Anahim Lake, the road turned to dirt/gravel.
For the most part it is very well maintained...
...it had not rained, the water truck had already been down the road to keep the dust down.
This is a really fun road!
More in next post.
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Day 24 continued.
A Really fun road, if you like dips and curves and good views! The surface is smoother than a lot of asphalt roads, but it has some nice give for a bit of drifting without being too aggressive.
Great scenery along the way- Mountains...
...Ponds....
...Lakes.
Before we know it we covered a bunch of km's and the gnarly part of the road starts with a gentle 12% incline.
Pic #1 of 3 of the first of a dozen+ blind curves, immediately followed by switchbacks...
Pic #2 of 3
Pic #3 of 3. Oh yeah, this is gonna be a lot of fun!
A blind curve where the road is still relatively wide and smooth, even though there is a good size drop-off.
After this the road got quite a bit rougher, steeper, narrower. I am going to post more pics of the ride all the way down to Bella Coola over the next couple of days.
However, in the meantime here is a short youtube video that we just made today. Gives a little taste of The Hill.
Day 24 to be continued.
Kevin
A Really fun road, if you like dips and curves and good views! The surface is smoother than a lot of asphalt roads, but it has some nice give for a bit of drifting without being too aggressive.
Great scenery along the way- Mountains...
...Ponds....
...Lakes.
Before we know it we covered a bunch of km's and the gnarly part of the road starts with a gentle 12% incline.
Pic #1 of 3 of the first of a dozen+ blind curves, immediately followed by switchbacks...
Pic #2 of 3
Pic #3 of 3. Oh yeah, this is gonna be a lot of fun!
A blind curve where the road is still relatively wide and smooth, even though there is a good size drop-off.
After this the road got quite a bit rougher, steeper, narrower. I am going to post more pics of the ride all the way down to Bella Coola over the next couple of days.
However, in the meantime here is a short youtube video that we just made today. Gives a little taste of The Hill.
Day 24 to be continued.
Kevin
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My wife says no way no how would she be willing to drive, ride, or even walk that road..:AGGHH:
Very impressive.
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Yeah, I did not know she had taken that pic til later. Cracked me up.
I understand completely...when Mary said she wanted to go to Bella Coola, I went to youtube, found a few videos and really had my doubts. I then showed her the videos and said, are you sure you want to go. She said yes. So I pondered it, figured if other could, I could. Also started conditioning my mind to head toward the mountain if there was an issue...no way I wanted to go off the edge.
Told her that was what we we would do, did she still want to go. Yep.
Here's the thing. When we got down to Bella Coola, I told her the road did not seem anywhere near as dangerous or scary as the videos made it look. She agreed. We figured they must have widened the road or something.
Then we looked at our pictures and videos...and it did seem the same as what we had seen...but when we were actually riding it, it was not bad at all.
Kevin
I have only read through page 5 of your trip, wanted to skip to the end to tell you I am enjoying it and intend to read every page. Really great. Makes me wanna strike out on the road. Waiting for the wife to muster the courage and energy.
Riding long distances is an acquired skill. You have to work up to it,gradually. It's obvious Kevin and Mary have honed it to a fine edge as being on the road for that long and for that many miles,deserves some serious kudos.
Sherry and I hope to do some week-long rides next year,after I'm retired. Never thought I would need or want a pull-behind trailer but I'm really starting to warm up to the idea.
Sherry and I hope to do some week-long rides next year,after I'm retired. Never thought I would need or want a pull-behind trailer but I'm really starting to warm up to the idea.
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- #191
Long riding is just great. MJ and I have made 5 6k + trips with the longest 10k+ This years was 7.5k and we love it. We are small time as compared to others. It is different because you can really get into the riding mode. I think once you try it you will be hooked. We motel it when we travel.
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Glad you are enjoying!
The hard part is not the riding. The hard part for us is saving $ all year long to be able to afford the trip.
Really, it is just like a day ride, then you are in a motel or at a friend or relatives house...less work to do there than if at home.
Then the next day is like another day ride. OR, ride a day and stay somewhere a few days before riding another day...and the days don't need to be a lot of miles. On our trips, there may be a few days that are 500 or 600 miles, but most days are 250-300, but they can be anything you want. The ride from Nimpo Lake to Bella Coola was only 98 miles.
Picking what to take, maybe shipping some stuff to a point you know you're going to be at, and packing...those may be skills or things to learn.
Riding is easy, fun. Many years ago we used to push to get a lot of miles done in a day...now I'd rather ride less miles and enjoy the ride more.
Yeah, no doubt about it being addictive! lol Moteling it is the way to go for us. Never thought I'd say that, but years ago we realized how much more we'd enjoy it with a nice shower, bed, a/c, heat, whatever, than having to set up camp every night and break down every morning. (we still go camping, but only when we're going to be in one spot for a few days).
I so spoiled now, I pack the bags so I only have to carry what we need into the motel for that night, and leave the rest in the bike. lol
I really envy you. We will never be able to do anything like this due to our home circumstances. I can say this though. If we are ever able to get another camper, it will be a toy hauler, so I can take the TG with us wherever we go. When we retire, we will be doing a lot of camping. Taking our two special needs (by that time) adults won't be a deterrent for camping.
I can always ride when we get to our destinations, wherever they may be.
I can always ride when we get to our destinations, wherever they may be.
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Day 24 continued.
Another of many switchbacks!
When we crossed this creek, little did we know...
...that we were still on the easy, not so gnarly part of the road.
This is where it really started- Proceed with Caution, Steep Narrow Winding Road.
What the sign does not say...
...is that there are long stretches of road where it is so narrow that two vehicles cannot get by. Yes, that is the road up ahead in this picture...even though it looks more like a trail. lol
But there are plenty of spots where the road widens. We stopped at one and took a few pics.
I know nothing about road building, dynamite or keeping rocks from falling, but in this picture you can see some sort of bolt or stud that has gone into the rock and has a small flat plate. Seems like these are there to keep the mountain from falling onto the road. ???
At the same stop/wide point in the road...
...same spot, about 15 feet from the bike, looking down at the road below...
...still the same spot, looking from the edge of the road to Mary and the "bolted together" mountain side.
More in next post.
Another of many switchbacks!
When we crossed this creek, little did we know...
...that we were still on the easy, not so gnarly part of the road.
This is where it really started- Proceed with Caution, Steep Narrow Winding Road.
What the sign does not say...
...is that there are long stretches of road where it is so narrow that two vehicles cannot get by. Yes, that is the road up ahead in this picture...even though it looks more like a trail. lol
But there are plenty of spots where the road widens. We stopped at one and took a few pics.
I know nothing about road building, dynamite or keeping rocks from falling, but in this picture you can see some sort of bolt or stud that has gone into the rock and has a small flat plate. Seems like these are there to keep the mountain from falling onto the road. ???
At the same stop/wide point in the road...
...same spot, about 15 feet from the bike, looking down at the road below...
...still the same spot, looking from the edge of the road to Mary and the "bolted together" mountain side.
More in next post.
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Day 24 continued.
Looking back as we are nearing the end of the hill. Notice we had the bear spray out for easy access. We saw no bears.
Almost back on the asphalt! Still 74 km til Bella Coola.
Much smoother, but still lots of fun curves. btw, there will be a lot more pics of "The Hill", more video too, as that is the way back out.
74 km's of beautiful scenery and fun road, and we are in Bella Coola!
Bella Coola is not a big town. Here is the Bella Coola Motel that Mary had made reservations at.
We unpacked at the motel and then went to the, literal, end of the road, which is just a little past the docks...this is where all the glacier water meets the ocean water.
At the docks I went to use the restroom, when I came out Mary was in the riders seat. She's pretty happy to be here!
A few more pics from around town-
The river side end of the bay
One of the many amazing views from in town
Glacier water flowing down into the river at the edge of town.
Kevin
Looking back as we are nearing the end of the hill. Notice we had the bear spray out for easy access. We saw no bears.
Almost back on the asphalt! Still 74 km til Bella Coola.
Much smoother, but still lots of fun curves. btw, there will be a lot more pics of "The Hill", more video too, as that is the way back out.
74 km's of beautiful scenery and fun road, and we are in Bella Coola!
Bella Coola is not a big town. Here is the Bella Coola Motel that Mary had made reservations at.
We unpacked at the motel and then went to the, literal, end of the road, which is just a little past the docks...this is where all the glacier water meets the ocean water.
At the docks I went to use the restroom, when I came out Mary was in the riders seat. She's pretty happy to be here!
A few more pics from around town-
The river side end of the bay
One of the many amazing views from in town
Glacier water flowing down into the river at the edge of town.
Kevin
Nothing but awesome!
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I was asked a few questions about the road to Bella Coola, including how long is the gravel part.
Also about other vehicles on the road.
I did a little internet search and found some interesting info and a few pics.
*********************
About 60 km of dirt road, 24 km of which is the nasty part.
On the way to Bella Coola we did encounter a few vehicles. No one was going fast (which was my concern), and I could hear them, so made sure I was on my side of the road. Once there was no "my side" of the road, so I backed up a ways to a wider section to give them room to pass.
Here is a quote from the Chilicotin website-
It is 200 miles from Williams Lake to Anahim Lake and just about another 100 from Anahim Lake to the Bella Coola Harbour. On this last stretch you will be on the 'Freedom Highway' and the "Hill", so called because when folks asked the Government for a road from Bella Coola to the Chilcotin Plateau in the 1950's, Government refused, stating that the terrain made it impossible to build one. So...locals got together and built the road themselves through some of the roughest terrain in Canada. With grades as steep as 18%, this is judged to be the steepest public highway in North America involving a drop of 4000 feet over a distance of only 10 miles.
Here is a quote from the dangerous roads website-
The road is certainly breathtaking and it has a fearsome reputation. The road features an 18% grade and narrow, winding switchbacks on the climb out of Bella Coola through the coastal mountains. Once out of Bella Coola, it runs through the mountainous Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park,which contains a great deal of wildlife, including grizzlies and black bears and then through the mostly desolate country of the Chilcotin Plateau. The road descends 43 km (27 mi) of steep, narrow road with sharp hairpin turns and two major switchbacks to the Bella Coola Valley. The descent includes a 9 km (5.6 mi) section with grades of up to 18% (about 1 in 6). Tourists who have driven to Bella Coola from Williams Lake have been known to refuse to drive back and have had to be taken out by boat or float plane.
And a couple of pictures-
Also about other vehicles on the road.
I did a little internet search and found some interesting info and a few pics.
*********************
About 60 km of dirt road, 24 km of which is the nasty part.
On the way to Bella Coola we did encounter a few vehicles. No one was going fast (which was my concern), and I could hear them, so made sure I was on my side of the road. Once there was no "my side" of the road, so I backed up a ways to a wider section to give them room to pass.
Here is a quote from the Chilicotin website-
It is 200 miles from Williams Lake to Anahim Lake and just about another 100 from Anahim Lake to the Bella Coola Harbour. On this last stretch you will be on the 'Freedom Highway' and the "Hill", so called because when folks asked the Government for a road from Bella Coola to the Chilcotin Plateau in the 1950's, Government refused, stating that the terrain made it impossible to build one. So...locals got together and built the road themselves through some of the roughest terrain in Canada. With grades as steep as 18%, this is judged to be the steepest public highway in North America involving a drop of 4000 feet over a distance of only 10 miles.
Here is a quote from the dangerous roads website-
The road is certainly breathtaking and it has a fearsome reputation. The road features an 18% grade and narrow, winding switchbacks on the climb out of Bella Coola through the coastal mountains. Once out of Bella Coola, it runs through the mountainous Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park,which contains a great deal of wildlife, including grizzlies and black bears and then through the mostly desolate country of the Chilcotin Plateau. The road descends 43 km (27 mi) of steep, narrow road with sharp hairpin turns and two major switchbacks to the Bella Coola Valley. The descent includes a 9 km (5.6 mi) section with grades of up to 18% (about 1 in 6). Tourists who have driven to Bella Coola from Williams Lake have been known to refuse to drive back and have had to be taken out by boat or float plane.
And a couple of pictures-
That will be one road you will never forget! I'm envious of your entire trip. wishing you continued safe travel.
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That sounds like a great plan!!! ThumbUp
Yeah, amazing land and fun road for sure!
Tioga Pass was great! It was paved. lol The funny thing about this road is the emotion/concern the pics and the video triggered in me. While on it, there was not the slightest concern...somehow it looks far more dangerous than it is. NOW...that said, the folks in Bella Coola travel it year round...that mean in the snow and ice.
While we were on it there was never a question of traction...so basically you would have to purposely steer off the road to get in trouble. But in the compromised traction of snow and/or ice, I don't think I would have ANY interest in traveling it in any vehicle!
That is sure, definitely made some good memories!
Kevin
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We stayed in Bella Coola two nights....most of one day, all of the next, and half of the third day.
The left half of this building was our home base while there. The Bella Coola Motel is owned and operated by the NuXalt Nation.
After unloading, and going to the end of the road, we then went to the Bella Coola Museum, no cameras allowed inside.
Amazing stuff from Mckenzie and the Norwegians who settled the land (other than the Indian Nations that were here long before the Europeans). Also a great history on the road to Bella that the locals built on their own, with their own money (to start with...the Canadian Government refused to help at first).
After the Museum, we went to the grocery store and bought food for today and tomorrow.
Hit the information center. Mary wanted to go on a tour that would takes us to see some bears. Was referred to several different tour guides. 2 of them are currently closed, the third one, Leonard, was there. We talked to him for a while. He is not currently doing any tours, but gave us some tips on where we could go. Since the probability is low of seeing bears right now, we asked about fishing. He gave us a few spots to go, then lent us his nice rod and reel.
We went down to the store, got a license and a tag (the salmon are just starting to run). While there we met John Edgar, a local Indian, in the parking lot. Got to talking to him, ended up making arrangements to go fishing with him at a few of his favorite spots. He'll be here at 10 am to pick us up. He also helped us pick up the preferred tackle for the fishing we'll be doing.
Got back to the motel, pulled off the lightweight line from the rod, put 40 lb line on it. We're ready to go.
Next day-
John Edgar of the NuXalt Nation showed up at 10 am and took us to his fishing spot.
We fished, learned a bit more about him and Bella Coola.
He then took us over to the falls...
...saw the hydro electric plant that powers the entire valley...
...we then went down to the sea. Spent a lot of time talking and learning of his ways.
More in next post.
The left half of this building was our home base while there. The Bella Coola Motel is owned and operated by the NuXalt Nation.
After unloading, and going to the end of the road, we then went to the Bella Coola Museum, no cameras allowed inside.
Amazing stuff from Mckenzie and the Norwegians who settled the land (other than the Indian Nations that were here long before the Europeans). Also a great history on the road to Bella that the locals built on their own, with their own money (to start with...the Canadian Government refused to help at first).
After the Museum, we went to the grocery store and bought food for today and tomorrow.
Hit the information center. Mary wanted to go on a tour that would takes us to see some bears. Was referred to several different tour guides. 2 of them are currently closed, the third one, Leonard, was there. We talked to him for a while. He is not currently doing any tours, but gave us some tips on where we could go. Since the probability is low of seeing bears right now, we asked about fishing. He gave us a few spots to go, then lent us his nice rod and reel.
We went down to the store, got a license and a tag (the salmon are just starting to run). While there we met John Edgar, a local Indian, in the parking lot. Got to talking to him, ended up making arrangements to go fishing with him at a few of his favorite spots. He'll be here at 10 am to pick us up. He also helped us pick up the preferred tackle for the fishing we'll be doing.
Got back to the motel, pulled off the lightweight line from the rod, put 40 lb line on it. We're ready to go.
Next day-
John Edgar of the NuXalt Nation showed up at 10 am and took us to his fishing spot.
We fished, learned a bit more about him and Bella Coola.
He then took us over to the falls...
...saw the hydro electric plant that powers the entire valley...
...we then went down to the sea. Spent a lot of time talking and learning of his ways.
More in next post.
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Time in Bella Coola continued.
While at the little picnic area down by the sea, John related to us the stories of the Sasquatch, including the time he saw one.
Heard stories of bear encounters, including when John was 20 feet from a grizzly that just walked by him and his friend.
Went to another fishing spot...
...had lunch & fished some more...it's just too early for the Salmon.
We had a great time learning and casting, appreciating the beauty of Bella Coola...
... and learning about the NuXalt Nation.
Went back to the motel...after we stopped by Johns house where he got some prawns and smoked salmon that he shared with us.
A bit later we rode 15 KM up the road to Leonards and returned the fishing pole to him, along with the new 40# line we had put on it. Here are a couple of pics along the way.
Sun is starting get get low.
We took one last ride back down to the sea, and sat and just was in awe of the mountains surrounding this harbor.
This is a Panoramic pic...might get a better view of it if you click on the pic.
Tomorrow we go back up "The Hill", back to Nimpo Lake.
Kevin
While at the little picnic area down by the sea, John related to us the stories of the Sasquatch, including the time he saw one.
Heard stories of bear encounters, including when John was 20 feet from a grizzly that just walked by him and his friend.
Went to another fishing spot...
...had lunch & fished some more...it's just too early for the Salmon.
We had a great time learning and casting, appreciating the beauty of Bella Coola...
... and learning about the NuXalt Nation.
Went back to the motel...after we stopped by Johns house where he got some prawns and smoked salmon that he shared with us.
A bit later we rode 15 KM up the road to Leonards and returned the fishing pole to him, along with the new 40# line we had put on it. Here are a couple of pics along the way.
Sun is starting get get low.
We took one last ride back down to the sea, and sat and just was in awe of the mountains surrounding this harbor.
This is a Panoramic pic...might get a better view of it if you click on the pic.
Tomorrow we go back up "The Hill", back to Nimpo Lake.
Kevin
what a great experience to spend time with the locals and listen and learn from them. Better then anything you can get from a book...
Great ride report with great commentary and excellent photos. Thanks you and Mary for taking the time and effort to share your experiences. Once I retire in a few years I hope to have the Tri Glide set up the way I want and start traveling with my lovely wife. Thank you again for sharing your travels and adventures.
Just caught up with all your posts. Wow, what a trip you both are on. I certainly enjoy reading about all you are doing. As others have reported, "It's like taking the trip with you" I guess you can say, I am now an armchair traveler.
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So very true. Learned a lot talking with John Edward.
Glad to hear you are enjoying. Getting it set up how you want, and getting some trips planned out...that is almost as much fun as taking a trip and will help the time fly til you can get out there!
Thank you, glad you are enjoying.
Kevin
That big windshield you've had on there for this ride...is it an LRS? Looks to be about a 15 inch.
Still loving the scenery. Thanks for taking me along.
Still loving the scenery. Thanks for taking me along.
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Day 25
Even though we only traveled 100 miles from Bella Coola to Nimpo Lake today, it was a very full day. Had 874 pics to go thru. I am going to try to whittle it down to 60 pics.
I have the first 20 done...so here we go.
About half of the distance we traveled today is in the Bella Coola Valley, headed toward The Hill. It is absolutely breathtaking.
How would you like to have this view from your backyard....
...or this view?
Headed thru the Bella Coola Valley....
...is just one post card view after another...
...when traveling, I often think about how nice it would be to live in a place like this...
...but then I remember, or am reminded, it gets WAY TOO COLD in the winter.
But it sure is nice to visit, and ride the amazing roads. In this pic, if you look closely, you can see 6 curves, just in this little section.
This is Big Country!
The road from Bella Coola, all the way to the foot of The Hill, is a good surface, great curves, and amazing sights!
More in next post.
Even though we only traveled 100 miles from Bella Coola to Nimpo Lake today, it was a very full day. Had 874 pics to go thru. I am going to try to whittle it down to 60 pics.
I have the first 20 done...so here we go.
About half of the distance we traveled today is in the Bella Coola Valley, headed toward The Hill. It is absolutely breathtaking.
How would you like to have this view from your backyard....
...or this view?
Headed thru the Bella Coola Valley....
...is just one post card view after another...
...when traveling, I often think about how nice it would be to live in a place like this...
...but then I remember, or am reminded, it gets WAY TOO COLD in the winter.
But it sure is nice to visit, and ride the amazing roads. In this pic, if you look closely, you can see 6 curves, just in this little section.
This is Big Country!
The road from Bella Coola, all the way to the foot of The Hill, is a good surface, great curves, and amazing sights!
More in next post.
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