extreme steering wobble at low speeds

[Nana]

Ben, the usual rake on trike (like EZ Steer) is 4-1/2 degrees, but depending on personal preference and your particular trike, a lot of folks opt to go up to the six degrees. But wherever you are in that range, you will find it makes a huge difference for you in a good way!

 

[ben2go]

just to be sure of the concept here ..... for a trike when the front is "raked" we are not talking about the frame but rather the trees...
have found about six degrees in the trees works for me depending on what bike....... with six i have very easy steering...and i dont use a damper
all a matter of preference... some say i am nuts going so much.... but i have over 42k on my vmax since the conversion and over 30 on the harley
never had and issue
do wish i went more than six on the harley though

stace

Thanks.
Correct.I'm not going to rake the head tube on my bike,just rework the trees or make new ones with more fork rake.Since my last post, I have found out that my bike runs 25 degrees of rake at the forks in two wheel form, instead of 35 like I stated earlier.So I will probably need to make new trees.My stock trees are cast steel or iron.

Ben, the usual rake on trike (like EZ Steer) is 4-1/2 degrees, but depending on personal preference and your particular trike, a lot of folks opt to go up to the six degrees. But wherever you are in that range, you will find it makes a huge difference for you in a good way!

Hey Nana.
With my bike being raked at 25 degrees at the forks,then 6 degrees added in won't be quite enough.I was looking through some of my old iron horse mags and a low rake for a cruiser at the forks is 35 degrees.I'll need 10 added in to get that.There are no aftermarket trees for my application.It will be 100% custom.My bike has parts from other bikes that I modified heavily to work with my frame and engine.I'll just have to work through the details on paper and then transfer it to the bike.

 

[Nana]

With your custom build, I can understand. The rake kits obviously are for stock setups! Can't wait to see yours all done

 

[Loner]

I recommend that you do some geometry measurements on your trike build before you manufacture 10 degree raked trees. If you go too much in the tree rake, your trike will drift and feel quite lite in the front. It will not be a comfortable (nor safe) situation. Not a firm fact, but you can go overboard with raked trees - trail needs to be a positive number, usually 2 to 3.5" (varies by a zilliion other factors).

Plus, there's a point of rake where hydraulic tube forks virtually quit work and become stiff. I've found, for example, that HD type 41mm tube forks don't want to collapse properly at anything beyond 37 degrees total rake. I don't know what point that would be for Suzuki forks.

Just droppin in my 2 cents worth (probably worth less than that).

 

[ben2go]

I recommend that you do some geometry measurements on your trike build before you manufacture 10 degree raked trees. If you go too much in the tree rake, your trike will drift and feel quite lite in the front. It will not be a comfortable (nor safe) situation. Not a firm fact, but you can go overboard with raked trees - trail needs to be a positive number, usually 2 to 3.5" (varies by a zilliion other factors).

Plus, there's a point of rake where hydraulic tube forks virtually quit work and become stiff. I've found, for example, that HD type 41mm tube forks don't want to collapse properly at anything beyond 37 degrees total rake. I don't know what point that would be for Suzuki forks.

Just droppin in my 2 cents worth (probably worth less than that).

Thanks.
I been thinking more about this, and I completely get what you're saying.I'm not a fan of heavily raked bikes or trikes.Since my bike is so small I will be keeping the rake to a minimum.The forks I am running are lighter weight Katana 750 forks.They are 41mm and this will give me dual disc front brakes with a 17 inch wheel.It's all ready set up on my two wheeler.I haven't done any frame measurements yet.When I convert the rear swing arm over to a straight axle,it will lower the rear a few inches,and increase the rake.After the trike is on it's wheels,I will take the necessary measurements and correct the rake as required.How does weight play into rake?More weight, more rake?Less weight,more rake?If I have the correct weights for the parts I am planning to use,my trike will be around the 500-550lbs mark.Dry weight for a bike like mine in stock form is 373.


Loner,I see you are into the VW trikes.I helped with a few builds and repaired a few.I used to work with a friend that was an air cooled only VW mechanic and owned his own repair shop.He is a big motorcycle guy also.So it was natural for him to cross the two.I am a certified auto and industrial mechanic.I kind of have a thing for all things mechanical.Still learning tho.When I quit learning,I'll sit on the porch in a rocking chair. :wtg:

 

[Loner]

If you're going to take your measurements with everything on wheels, then you're going to want to measure for trail, not rake. Study-up on trail measurements, do them with you (or an approximating weight) in the seat, and those measurements will be the basis for your calculations of your ideal 'raked trees'.

That 'theory' stated, I suspect it would be prudent to know what kind of two-wheeler you are converting. If it's a crotch rocket as it sounds like, seems to me a more prudent answer would be to get an air-cooled VW front axle assy and graft it one (aka Can-Am) than to work with the fine-tuned frame of the stock bike. Just my thoughts.

 

[ben2go]

If you're going to take your measurements with everything on wheels, then you're going to want to measure for trail, not rake. Study-up on trail measurements, do them with you (or an approximating weight) in the seat, and those measurements will be the basis for your calculations of your ideal 'raked trees'.

That 'theory' stated, I suspect it would be prudent to know what kind of two-wheeler you are converting. If it's a crotch rocket as it sounds like, seems to me a more prudent answer would be to get an air-cooled VW front axle assy and graft it one (aka Can-Am) than to work with the fine-tuned frame of the stock bike. Just my thoughts.

1990 Suzuki GS500.It's kind of in between a sport bike and a standard bike.Most people consider them a striped down sport bike(AKA naked sport bike).The one I ride I built to be ridden like a sport bike.I'm not building this trike to be a tourer or traveler.It will be for short jaunts and day cruises.I do plan to add a trunk to it for the GF's purse.If I make it comfy for her then she'll ride with me most of the time.I haven't decided if that's a good thing or bad thing yet.After 10 years,you'd think I would know. :yes:

This is my bike.It has been heavily modified by myself and is built to run the mountains in my area.The one I am working on is striped to the frame at the moment,awaiting mock up.