Anyone install an LED brake/running/turn signal light on the trunk?

[RKplus10]

Rick, I'm having the same problem after mounting a LB01 light bar on my luggage rack. Think I will use posi-taps for the power and ground to the frame.

 

[Rick405]

Yeah. I tried pushing them out from the front. Pushing them out from the back. I'm wondering if they are a one shot use. I was trying to keep the rear light circuits on the 7B connector but it will be a week or so before I can get a new connector. I thought about using Posi Taps too. If I do it will be done tomorrow. I'm going to have to use them or solder tap wires for the ground and running light so I will probably just go with a third one for the brakes.

Thanks for letting me know it wasn't just me.

 

[Rick405]

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it. I got more movement pushing it towards the front than the rear. Never got it out.

 

[Rick405]

This is what I did

Thanks MDO. Once again I am using your ideas to make my trike better. First the Sylvania LED tail lights. Now a center running/brake light.

As I said in an other post I went with the Custom Dynamics LB03. They call it Non-Sequential/Flashing Brake.

I thought about putting it where the reflector is under the trunk latch but decided I wanted it higher. I used a tee bracket and mounted it to the seat screw. I used Posi Taps to connect it and it made it very easy. Here are

some photos. It's actually brighter than the pictures show.​

 

[MDO]

Thanks for posting pics. I like the way it looks, but I can't do that.

I have the luggage rack & when I travel long distance, I have a bag on the rack.

That sure would make it easy to wire with the plugs being right there under the seat.

 

[Rick405]

My '17 has a small access panel on the top left back of the trunk. May be for an OEM trunk light. It goes right to were the rear light cable is. The Custom Dynamic lights come with a 36" pig tail. Looks like it is a little short for going from the reflector under the latch to where the cable is but wouldn't take much to add a little. I would put some shrink tubing on the wire where it comes through the trunk and up to the top of the trunk liner. Then some split loom around the top of the trunk. I would use adhesive tie wrap mounts around the top of the trunk. A grommet through the access panel and a little silicone would make it waterproof .

That's the way I would put the Custom Dynamic light where the reflector is. For what it's worth.

 

[MDO]

What access panel are you referring to?

 

[RKplus10]

Really clean install, Rick. That looks great.

 

[Rick405]

What access panel are you referring to?

 

[Rick405]

Really clean install, Rick. That looks great.

Thanks

 

[beagleman]

T-bracket

Thanks

I really like your setup with using the T-bracket to get the light up higher. I think with it at that level it would still show underneath a luggage rack. Where did you get the T- bracket or did you fabricate it yourself. Is it secured with the seat bolt? Really neat job of concealing the wiring. Nice looking rig!

 

[Rick405]

I really like your setup with using the T-bracket to get the light up higher. I think with it at that level it would still show underneath a luggage rack. Where did you get the T- bracket or did you fabricate it yourself. Is it secured with the seat bolt? Really neat job of concealing the wiring. Nice looking rig!

Thanks for the kind words. I used a 3" tee bracket from the hardware store. Bent and drilled it where I needed it and painted it. Yes it's attached with the seat bolt. I replaced the phillips head screw with a stainless steel allen head cap screw so I could put a little more torque on it.

 

[MDO]

I still plan on doing this in 1 form or another, but I am just having too much fun riding.

I will revisit it this fall.

 

[Rick405]

I still plan on doing this in 1 form or another, but I am just having too much fun riding.

I will revisit it this fall.

I know the feeling but for me the temperatures are starting to hit 105 with 110 forecast for latter in the week. I try to get out early and ride until it's just too hot. So I'll be looking for fall to get some longer rides in.

 

[MDO]

For me, the fall is the best time to ride.

Late September/early October is great.

 

[beagleman]

Thanks for the info Rick

Thanks for the kind words. I used a 3" tee bracket from the hardware store. Bent and drilled it where I needed it and painted it. Yes it's attached with the seat bolt. I replaced the phillips head screw with a stainless steel allen head cap screw so I could put a little more torque on it.

Thanks for the info regarding the T-bracket. There are a lot of cool looking tail lights out there for a high-mounted third brake lights but the key to it all is the bracket to get it up high enough to clear the luggage rack enough. Preferably one that would utilize the seat bolt to hold it. Since I don't use the luggage rack much anyway, I just want to clear the top of the rack with the light. Probably 3-4'' tall would do as long as it is thick enough not to wobble. I'll continue to look for a suitable brace to do that and still provide concealment of the wires.

 

[Rick405]

Thanks for the info regarding the T-bracket. There are a lot of cool looking tail lights out there for a high-mounted third brake lights but the key to it all is the bracket to get it up high enough to clear the luggage rack enough. Preferably one that would utilize the seat bolt to hold it. Since I don't use the luggage rack much anyway, I just want to clear the top of the rack with the light. Probably 3-4'' tall would do as long as it is thick enough not to wobble. I'll continue to look for a suitable brace to do that and still provide concealment of the wires.

Those tee brackets come in many sizes. Spend a little time at the hardware store and you may find exactly what you want. May take a little more cutting and grinding to fit. The taller it gets concealment becomes more difficult. How about running the wire down the back of the bracket and then put some heat shrink tubing over the bracket and wire? Or you could do what MDO is planning. Replace the red reflector below the trunk latch with the light. Anyway, good luck with your project. Half the fun is figuring out how you want to do it. Unfortunately for me sometimes after I finish a project I think of a better way to do it.

 

[Free Bird]

Thanks for starting this thread... it has given me a LOT of things to explore and learn

Here is where I finally landed. With my tires and new fenders disallowing the use of the OEM rear lights, I had to go to something that is body mounted. So I am mounting two set of three Bates style billet tail lights from Analog Motorcycles. The guys there were nice enough to modify their current offering to accommodate the needs of the trike body



I still need to polish the housings but have the LEDs, all the mounting hardware and rubber grommets for the assemblies. The LEDs are set up as running/brake lights and turn signals and I am adding the sequence module from United Pacifica to get the 1...2...3 directional turn signal sequencing like the current generation Mustangs and old Impalas. I will post pictures/videos when complete

 

[Rick405]

Thanks for starting this thread... it has given me a LOT of things to explore and learn

Here is where I finally landed. With my tires and new fenders disallowing the use of the OEM rear lights, I had to go to something that is body mounted. So I am mounting two set of three Bates style billet tail lights from Analog Motorcycles. The guys there were nice enough to modify their current offering to accommodate the needs of the trike body



I still need to polish the housings but have the LEDs, all the mounting hardware and rubber grommets for the assemblies. The LEDs are set up as running/brake lights and turn signals and I am adding the sequence module from United Pacifica to get the 1...2...3 directional turn signal sequencing like the current generation Mustangs and old Impalas. I will post pictures/videos when complete

Very nice. I'm eager to see them installed.

 

[trikejones]

Sorry it took so long. I had to put the bike back in the shop to get some paint corrected. You can see the Radiantz LED bar in the recess of the trunk. It functions as running, brake and turns. It is plenty bright.

Trike looks great! Who's handlebars are you using? Would love to see some front and side shots if you have time. Did you increase the tire size? Thanks again. Great job!

 

[trikejones]

Yep... saw that one. Let me know how it goes... I am working on fenders for my fat tire install.... will need an alternative to OEM

View attachment 56361

I just came across this thread and saw your project. I have spent the last few weeks planning the same type of mods. Are those tires Mickey Thompson Sportsman s/r's? Was looking at those and the s/t's because I want to stay with a 15" rim. What width are the tires? I was looking at 10 or 12 inch wide and of course a custom fender at some point. I'm also looking to move the electrics to the trunk but a 2 light per side system to mimic the 1961 Corvette. Looks like we are on the same page. What bars will you be running? I have the 14" Carlini Gangster Apes but looking to go shorter with more pullback. What wheels did you use and what size adapter plate did you get? I'm looking to put on Cragar SS wheels with a 1.75" or 2" adapter plate. FWI... it was recommended to me to beef up the axle bearing retainer plate to help with the increase in tire/wheel size. DK Customs machined a replacement plate which is much heavier. Check them out. Any info and photos you can share with me will be greatly appreciated. Looking good!

 

[Free Bird]

Yes. It sounds like we are on very similar journeys....

They are indeed Mickey Thompson Sportsman Radials 29x18 R15-LT. The stock FLRT tire is 26” diameter the MT Tire is 29”diameter which results in a 1.5” lift to rear of trike. The 29” Tire with 15” wheel results in section height of 7”. The bolt pattern on H-D trike rear wheels is 4 x 4.25". Stock Harley trike rear wheels are 15 x 5.5" with 2.25" backspacing. I am running 08/61 Super Sport Cragar 15x14 wheels which have a 4.5”backspacing. My adapter is 2" thick so the net backspace of the Cragar wheel with the adapter is equal to the stock Harley back space. I am running a 120/70 -21 tire/wheel combo on the front end with a Klock Works modified Hugger Fender. The front end uses a custom set of wide glide reversion trees (old trees and tin nacelle will not be used) that I had machined with an additional 4.5 degrees of rake to the forks. I am running a OEM HD Rocker Headlight to complete the look on the front end.

The bars are 1" x 18" rise Smart Gimps from Nash Motorcycle for bars. I wanted Godzilla Apes from BRs but I could not get past the $500 for a raw steel bar price. I also have a 35" tall tipi sissy bar from Ginz Choppers on the back made from the stock seat back arrangement and a backrest that goes the length of the bar and Cycle Smith Banana floor boards for me and Pickard USA Rear boards for my wife.

Lighting is custom turned housings with LEDs to emulate the old Impala look. They have been a bit of a chore, but will look good when complete.

Fenders are last thing to do. This is the basic concept:





The engineering on this is essentially building a wire frame that uses the swingarm as a hard point on the front and beefed up axle caliper mounting bracket at the rear as hard points so the frame and fender float with the rear axle rather than attaching to the trunk body. I am interested in the bracket from DK and will check it out. Current plan is a beefed up machining to replace the OEM bracket.

There is a lot more detail..... but you get the idea

 

[Free Bird]

DK Comes up with the most practical and coolest (bleep)! This is so obviously a good idea and what a great gift to have a shop interested in making the ideas real. Harley should have seen the reliability issue coming for the stock trike assembly. For my modified trike, I have been concerned about shear loading on the bearings with my wide tires. I had issues when I put a sidecar on a softail (the swing at bearings were never designed to take the irregular bending moments and shear of a sidecar). So I had similar concern about my tires and the bearings in the differential of the trike..... Issue (mostly) solved! Thanks DK!!!

And a double shot of appreciation to "I'm Jonesin' on my Trike" Mike.... Really appreciate the reccomendation

 

[MDO]

Freebird, You need to start a thread with all the post you have here on your project & move them to it.

No one will ever find your journey/project under an LED brake light thread.orag:

 

[Free Bird]

Thanks MDO. Not sure I know how to move posts. I will look into it.

 

[Free Bird]

Very nice. I'm eager to see them installed.

Here is the idea for the tail lights. Just finished polishing and fab'ing the mounts. Installing the 21" wheel, chrome front lower legs and Extended brake and shifter pedals floorboards this week.

 

[Free Bird]

Freebird, You need to start a thread with all the post you have here on your project & move them to it.

No one will ever find your journey/project under an LED brake light thread.orag:

Done.... Just posted it under "Freewheeler Chopper Project" Although I don't intend on chopping the neck..... yet

 

[haute pursuit]

Trike looks great! Who's handlebars are you using? Would love to see some front and side shots if you have time. Did you increase the tire size? Thanks again. Great job!

The tire and wheel combo are a 1/2" taller than stock. 18x9.5 rims and a 275/40/18 tire. Front wheel changed to a 23" also. I will try to take some more pics this week... but it is dirty. I need to run a rag over the entire bike. Been riding alot.

There are more pics here...

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/48785-Finally-got-my-bike-back-from-paint!

 

[Free Bird]

Its a great looking ride. And yours is finished!

I was going to shamelessly steal the way you tied the fenders into the bike. Very sturdy to minimize vibration. But when I added the diameter needed to clear the tires I ended up with something that looked like those hats they wore in the "Flying Nun" TV show (old reference). Regardless, it was just too high and didn't look good in the mock up at all. (One of those learning things you mentioned ) So I am going for the swingarm/diffy attach rods at the front and then the caliper bracket at the back with an L shaped frame and less overall coverage for the tire. Looks cool and is functional.