88 Blazer Trike

[peteg59]

"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"

Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:

 

[Fowler]

"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"

Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:

I admit I had to look up what you were suggesting

Great Idea!

Thanks


A highly-effective rust preventative designed to protect internal engine components during storage or long periods of inactivity. Ideal for outboard motors, lawn and garden equipment, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATVs, motor homes and generators or any equipment with a two- or four-stroke engine.

 

[peteg59]

As a follow on to my earlier post, any light oil/ATF should work to coat the cylinder walls if you're putting it down for under a year.
Longer, & a true fogging oil is definitely the way to go.ThumbUp

Then again on the other hand you hear of folks starting up a motor that has sat 10 years or more, just adding gas, fresh batt. & it fires right up:Shrug:

 

[Fowler]

I changed the oil and filter the ran it for a bit
I picked up the fogger and some fuel stabilizer
Per the directions on the can I sprayed some down the TB and the in each spark plug hole.

I have read that some people "pickle" the engine. Basically fill the engine completely full with oil. I have not done this yet
What do you think about that?

Tore more of it apart today

Before

after

 

[peteg59]

Not sure I'd fill the eng completely full w/oil, unless you're storing it in a place that experiences constant high humidity, or somewhere that condensation is a major issue.
Normal oil fill in the block, & fogging all cylinders should be all you really need to do.

If you plan on using the stock fuel tank, filling w/fuel & stabilizer is suggested...

 

[Fowler]

any idea what these are?

 

[Fowler]

any idea what these are?

one of them looks to be a ESC = Electronic Spark Control.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html

 

[LarryA]

the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry

 

[Fowler]

the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry

I would like to keep the TBI but that is a long way off.

Good suggestions on the manuals. I will do that.

Almost have it ready to take the body off. Its been cold so I have been working slow. I'm still ahead of schedule though
I think before I narrow the rear end and frame I will wait until it gets a little warmer out. Its just to hard/tight to work with the doors closed and to cold to work with them open.

I may have a line on a 2wd Trany to replace the 4wd one I have now. I am hoping to trade the old one and a rifle for it. Got to wait to until I get the body off for I can see what exactly I have. I could just crawl under it but the concrete is cold
I think its a 700r4/4l60

 

[Fowler]

surpenteen belt

When I put the engine back together I will only need Crank, Water pump and Altenator
I can make brackets to mount the alternator on either side
But I do not come up with a good belt path.


This is not my engine but its setup the same

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

fowler...one idea is to ditch the serpentine.....get a v-belt style waterpump (should turn opposite direction) ,crank pulley and alt/w/v pulley and mount the alt down where the ps.was?? larry

 

[BIGJEEPMAN]

What are your plans for suspension? Stock leaf springs, or coil springs? Is the motor going to be behind the seats? I have a 2000 s10 I can get for free and want to build a trike out of it, but it has a 4 cylinder and a 5 spd. I would have to ditch the tranny. I would love to hear more about your plans.

 

[Fowler]

fowler...one idea is to ditch the serpentine.....get a v-belt style waterpump (should turn opposite direction) ,crank pulley and alt/w/v pulley and mount the alt down where the ps.was?? larry

I was doing some research on this and not sure I like the idea of mounting the Alt that low. But thanks for the suggestion

 

[Fowler]

What are your plans for suspension? Stock leaf springs, or coil springs? Is the motor going to be behind the seats? I have a 2000 s10 I can get for free and want to build a trike out of it, but it has a 4 cylinder and a 5 spd. I would have to ditch the tranny. I would love to hear more about your plans.

I plan to go with coil over shocks with a Tringulated 4 link.
The engine will mount up front and I will straddle the transmission
I should be removing the body sometime soon. It is ready to come off I just need a friend to come take it.

I think the Transmission is a 700r4 and it is 4x4. I am hoping to trade it along with the transfer for a 2WD transmission.

I will not know for sure until I get the body off but I believe I will narrow the rear axle and frame.

The front part of the frame where the engine mounts I will remove and build my own then tie it into the narrowed original rear frame


BUT I will not know for sure on anything until I get the body off. I hope my friend come to get it soon.

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

fowler...hope your friend is storing the body...wiring harness, computer etc. will require you to visit the body more times than you would think!! my2c. sounds like you have the plan coming together. i'm going to enjoy the build!! larry

 

[Fowler]

fowler...hope your friend is storing the body...wiring harness, computer etc. will require you to visit the body more times than you would think!! my2c. sounds like you have the plan coming together. i'm going to enjoy the build!! larry

I have pulled everything I can think I need off the body. Even the ECU.
I hope I did not forget something but if I did I will have to deal with it.
I was planning to buy a stripped down/custom harness or build one if I have to.

My friend is supposed to come get the body next weekend.

I priced some of the steel I need and its cheaper than I remember from my last build.
I will at least be building the front part of the frame (where the engine mounts) and may just build the entire thing. Have not decided yet. Need to see the blazers frame first.
I figure I will use 2x2x3/16 for any frame parts I build.

Going out to work on my dog now. I have to figure out how to make the skull

 

[LarryA]

the dog

fowler... keep us up on the dog build!! as well as the trike......very interesting combination!!

 

[BMB Guns]

Keep the updates and pics coming! This forum has been a big help to me with my build. I'll keep checking in to see how you are coming along.

 

[Fowler]

My friend is promising to come get the body tomorrow after work.
I pick up the steel Friday going with 2 x 2 x 3/16

I am thinking of making a wooden engine/trany cradle on wheels. It will sit at the height and angle I want the engine and Trany to be on the trike. This way I can build my front frame and engine mounts around it.

I have not down it like this before but in my mind it sounds like it will work

 

[BMB Guns]

My friend is promising to come get the body tomorrow after work.
I pick up the steel Friday going with 2 x 2 x 3/16

I am thinking of making a wooden engine/trany cradle on wheels. It will sit at the height and angle I want the engine and Trany to be on the trike. This way I can build my front frame and engine mounts around it.

I have not down it like this before but in my mind it sounds like it will work

That sounds like a good strategy (making the engine and transmission free standing). I made feet mounted to my engine that allowed me to block the engine up to get it where I needed it in the frame. Working with a heavy engine with heavy transmission bolted to it us both dangerous and potentially costly if it is dropped and parts start getting snapped off! My advice is to build your cart stronger than needed and don't go cheap on the wheels. Get some nice heavy duty wheels. They can always be recycled for future projects.

 

[TwistedKarma]

Rear width

you talked about shortening up rear, did you nail down width of unit?

I'm def going to shorten mine up still will be wide compared to some.

 

[BMB Guns]

Everyone is cutting width on their rear end and I'm over here going full retard. ..

 

[Fowler]

you talked about shortening up rear, did you nail down width of unit?

I'm def going to shorten mine up still will be wide compared to some.

I am waiting to get the body off the donor vehicle first. It should be coming off tonight
Once it is off can take better measurements and make a decision
I did some research and found trikes from 60" to 75" and even 1 or 2 80" or more
I believe the Blazer (the Donor vehicle) is 64"

 

[Fowler]

Everyone is cutting width on their rear end and I'm over here going full retard. ..

That's a Beast

 

[Fowler]

I finally got the body removed
Now I am working on striping it down

 

[peteg59]

Why not do an all wheel drive, or front wheel drive "reverse" trike?
Might be easier than you think, & definitely 1 of a kind...(Cool)

 

[Fowler]

Why not do an all wheel drive, or front wheel drive "reverse" trike?
Might be easier than you think, & definitely 1 of a kind...(Cool)

That sounds like a cool idea but I have pictures in my head basically how it will look

Some things I am debating with myself are

How wide the rear frame and axle will be. From the outside of 1 tire to the outside of the other is 63.5". From what I have read that's not bad

Normal size tires or wide tires. whats to Pros and Cons of each. I have not researched this yet

Engine/trany height and Pinion angle I have been doing a lot of reading on this lately.

Where to place the seats Got to figure this out sooner then later. It will factor in in the frame design (mainly length)

where I will tie the new front frame to the old rear frame Or do I just build a completely new frame. I have been researching both, I have been mainly looking at Hot Rods And Trikes but been getting ideas from a lot of areas

Almost positive It will have a coil over. But have seen some real neat ideas with the leaf springs. Moving them inside or making a Transverse one

Link design I have been researching this a lot also Thinking of a Triangulated 4 link

there's a lot more running through my head but will deal with them in time

 

[Fowler]

all stripped down ready ready to pull the engine/trany.

Still have not decided on the rear end yet. I really like the look of the leaf springs but they are so stiff

 

[Fowler]

Next steps in order

1. pull engine/trany
2. build stand and place engine and trany on stand
3. correct pinion angle on rear end with shims
4. Weld in cross member just in front of forward leaf spring mount
5. Cut old frame just in front of new Cross member
6. Build front frame and engine mounts
7. Attach front frame to new cross member

I think doing it this way I still give myself the option of using either Coil overs or Leafs. I like the look of the leaf springs but they are stiff. I can take out a leaf or 2 to see how that works but I just dont know. I have read that coil overs with a 4 link are a better ride

Also doing it this way still gives me the option to build the rest of the frame and narrow it if I decide to do that.

I do not want to limit my options just yet


Now that I think about it maybe # 3 (pinion angle) should be last

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

fowler.. 2 factors that I see....#1 is pinion snout twisting up under acceleration.#2 is just hitting a bump ie raising the whole rear end straight up with no twist... leafs with a snubber for the snout will work just fine.....the 4 link takes care of the wrap up by virtue of it's design also. either way, the mounting should be adjustable to fine tune. anyhow, this thinking and figuring was the favorite part of my build....I did it leaning back in my chair with my feet up!! larry