Help motor guys

[starrider1946]

I have posted about motor problems before and have had suggestions. I bought a sync gauge and used it today. Once again this is what I have. 2002 Roadhawk. Stock 1600 cc with dual webbers. Motor has electronic igintion. I have a stutter/ spit back as I shift from 1st to 2nd, 3rd, 4th after I go to these gears and give it a little throttle as I pick up speed. If I give it throttle grandma style it falters a little BUT if I give it a lot of throttle it goes like hell. I can be going down the road and gas it and it sets me back in the seat.

I have checked the valves ( .004 ) tried the timing from 7 to 12 degrees and this didn't help. Right now the needle valves on the right side are out about 1 3/4. The ones on the left are out almost 2. I have read several articles and some say the air bleed screw should be all the way in some say out 1 turn.

I started out this morning with all mixture screws out one and all air bleed screws all the way in with linkage unhooked. I fired it up and it ran terrible. I eventually ended up opening the mixtures screws back to about where they were and the air bleed screws up a turn or so.

I don't know what main jets are in the carbs but the low spehttps://www.lily.camera/ed jets are .045. I have read that with duals they should be .055 Does anyone know anything that can that can help.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

So now do you know that there is not anything wrong with the carbs in a mechanical sense?*
You now know they are clean?
All the parts function?
Are in sync?
Gaskets good?
Not loose?

Next.
*Do you know if they have ever run correctly?

Static base timing means very little. Set total advance 28 to 30 advanced.

So you have duals and they look like idf models.
*Have you searched them up?
*Are they 40's or 44's?
What ventures do you have?

Webers are tunable and will run on just about anything.
BUT they are not made exactly for any aftermarket set up.
When purchased they usually are not jetted correctly.
Whoever put them on has to run it and tune them. This involves changing up low and high speed jets and even the emulsion tubes on some.
This set up or tune will be extremely specific just for your one engine, compression ratio, cam, displacement, *and even the distributor u use.*
So hopefully whoever did it knew what they were doing, which goes back to the question did it ever run right.

The distributor has a lot to do with the transition phase.
The 009 or clone of are well known to not fit any transition curve. They are industrial wide open all the time units.

 

[starrider1946]

help

Let me try and answer what I can.
I believe everything mechanical on the carbs that I can see.I don't know how clean they are. They are in sync according to my gauge. I don't know if they ever ran right. I tried it at 32 degree advance and had the same thing.They are weber 40 idf's for sure. Don't know about the verturi's.I don't know about the distributor. How can I tell what it is. I don't think the guy I bought it from knew a whole lot about tuning but I am not sure. I feel like this is the carbs that were on it from the trike shop so I feel it ran right at one time.I wonder if something could be stopped up inside? If there was somebody around I would gladly carry it to them but there is no one I know of. I'll keep on trying.Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep you posted.

So now do you know that there is not anything wrong with the carbs in a mechanical sense?*
You now know they are clean?
All the parts function?
Are in sync?
Gaskets good?
Not loose?

Next.
*Do you know if they have ever run correctly?

Static base timing means very little. Set total advance 28 to 30 advanced.

So you have duals and they look like idf models.
*Have you searched them up?
*Are they 40's or 44's?
What ventures do you have?

Webers are tunable and will run on just about anything.
BUT they are not made exactly for any aftermarket set up.
When purchased they usually are not jetted correctly.
Whoever put them on has to run it and tune them. This involves changing up low and high speed jets and even the emulsion tubes on some.
This set up or tune will be extremely specific just for your one engine, compression ratio, cam, displacement, *and even the distributor u use.*
So hopefully whoever did it knew what they were doing, which goes back to the question did it ever run right.

The distributor has a lot to do with the transition phase.
The 009 or clone of are well known to not fit any transition curve. They are industrial wide open all the time units.