Starter Switch Problems

Just because I found out the hard way, by accident....I will offer a suggestion concerning the passing lamps. Those buggers pull a lot of current. I NEVER run mine out on the highway, only in heavy traffic, or congested areas....then I flip them back off. They really load an alternator. The newer trikes/bikes have 45 and even 50-amp alternators, so it is not such a big problem anymore. In the earlier fuel-injected bikes with the 30-something AMP alternators, the "code" light would come on if you left them on while putting around town. It was indicating a low battery condition. We all learned to never run the passing lamps unless we were running above 2500 RPM, which is the point that the alternator really starts producing. Not such a problem now days with the high-output alternators, but if you run those 24/7, it does place an additional load on the alternator, which puts an additional load on the motor, etc.

I remember taking my 96 fuel-injected Ultra into the Stealership and the old mechanic (and close friend) told me that "they were passing lamps...and should only be used when you're passing somebody....stupid, or they will pull your battery down".
 
just picked up on this thread and will share my experience with my 10 triglide starter. about 2 months after delivery it started having a mind of its own and would usually stick when starting. Dealer replaced switch and she was good for awhile.
about 6 months later she started once while i was cruising down the road at 70 i did not know it due to my loud pipes and being half deaf from being a gunsmith who "forgets" his hearing protection when testing repaired guns.
Well when i got into town at the first light i smelled it, motor was still turning and haness was melting, that day was it until dealer put new harness starter and switch on the bike.
so far so good have about 10,000 miles 3000 since fry job and no problems.
it surley sounds like a problem inherit of the triglides.
just my 2 cents
Roger
ps wrench said it was the switch sticking again, sounds like they need a new supplier :yes:
 
They usually blame it on the supplier....like they did back in 99 and 00 when all the cam bearings started falling apart. They failed to mention they decided to put the cheaper ball-bearing in when they started the first production runs.
 
My dad is picking up the trike tonight from the dealer, they replaced the switch and relay. I hope that takes care of it because I'm not going to be a happy camper if it happens again.
 
Just had the starter switch and starter replaced on my 09 Tri-Glide. Just returned from a trip on the Blue Ridge, wshen it went out. The starter tried to engage while motor was running and in gear. Did this four times, the forth time took the starter gear with it.
 
Just had the starter switch and starter replaced on my 09 Tri-Glide. Just returned from a trip on the Blue Ridge, wshen it went out. The starter tried to engage while motor was running and in gear. Did this four times, the forth time took the starter gear with it.

Sorry to hear about your problems. I know how you feel.
 
Just had the starter switch and starter replaced on my 09 Tri-Glide. Just returned from a trip on the Blue Ridge, wshen it went out. The starter tried to engage while motor was running and in gear. Did this four times, the forth time took the starter gear with it.

Harley needs to get a handle on the shoddy QC of the vendor who is supplying the switch.
 
This is pretty elementary, but if you have had to do it on a 2-wheeler....works on a trike too, if you have enough bodies around you to push.

If the starter is trying to engage, just take the small plug-on connector off the solenoid. That lead is what pulls-in the solenoid and if you un-plug it....it takes that out of the loop.

But, for ANY starter issue, turn the bike kill-switch to "run", the ignition to "on" put the trike in like 3rd. gear, clutch it....have somebody push you and pop the clutch. If the battery is alive....it will start. If you are in a real bind out there in the boon-docks..you may have to resort to having somebody in a car give you a push.....or wait half-a-day for a wrecker.

Or....simply remove the solenoid cover and push the plunger with your finger. This is for the more experienced wrench that will remove the plunger and keep it handy. It will just pull out of the center of the solenoid. Stick it in your pocket (or make your wife hold it) until you get back to civilization.
 
lease keep us posted.i've never had this problem, but my '09 tri-glide has onle been wet a few times, except hand washing. lb

Well three weeks ago, after a 2000 mile trip, to the Blue Ridge and back. I washed my 2009 Tri-Glide. As I rode it the next day the starter tried to kick in, several times. I took it to my HD Dealership for the work. They replaced the starter and the start switch. A couple of days ago I took it in for a Trany Cover and a oil pan leak. Picked it up today, no more leaks. As I was 1.5 miles from the dealership the starter tried to kick in. The eng. lite and the batt. lite also come on. The volt gauge, showed discharge. I turned around and went back to the shop. They told me the starters were on back order. I told them to find out whats causing the problem. Does anybody know whats up?
 
Well three weeks ago, after a 2000 mile trip, to the Blue Ridge and back. I washed my 2009 Tri-Glide. As I rode it the next day the starter tried to kick in, several times. I took it to my HD Dealership for the work. They replaced the starter and the start switch. A couple of days ago I took it in for a Trany Cover and a oil pan leak. Picked it up today, no more leaks. As I was 1.5 miles from the dealership the starter tried to kick in. The eng. lite and the batt. lite also come on. The volt gauge, showed discharge. I turned around and went back to the shop. They told me the starters were on back order. I told them to find out whats causing the problem. Does anybody know whats up?

Wow.... Not a good thing, did the dealer wash it after servicing it? Could have been more water into the start switch. My WAG on the whole start switch issue is HD has switched to a different supplier for this part which most of the time is the company who sells it to them for the lowest cost, which doesn't always mean top quality control on the suppliers end.
 
I think they could replace starter motors from now on and possibly never fix the problem. A starter will not self-ignite.....so to speak. Some things have to happen to energize it. The most simple isolation is (as mentioned before) reach down and pull the small plug-in connector. If it continues to try and start (run), it's either sticky contacts under that square-looking cover (starter solenoid), or some other gremlin that is causing a direct connection to the starter motor....but I don't see how. If after you unplug that little connector....it stops, the trouble is either a sticking starter relay or something in the harness...to include the start-button.

Now Wizard is a rocket scientist and I bet he could figure this out too. I am not a rocket scientist, but have stayed in many a HI Express.....and fixed more than one starter and it's wiring.

cewhit1....I feel for you buddy and I truly hope they find the issue, but it is no where near normal for two starter-motors in a row to have the same defect. It ain't the starter, but they will have to figure that out.....if they can.
 
As suggested by 1550vt I just took the literally 5 minutes and installed this nice little push button to prevent me from getting stranded if and when the push button takes another dump on me. All I'll have to do is unplug the little plug to the right with the green wire and push the button to start the trike. I'll get my dads installed once he gets back home from his trip.

dscf3720g.jpg
 
Works every time Mike.

Some of these kits come with screws.....that don't fit. So, if anybody orders a chrome cover with with screws...you may have to reuse the stock black screws, or go the nut-n-bolt house and get some stainless steel ones in the correct metric size. I forget...maybe 5mm or 7mm..don't remember.
 
napa or suto zone has these start switches. i put one on a older rider mower.its weather sealed. i'm going to put one on my '09 tri-glide. lb
 
Works every time Mike.

Some of these kits come with screws.....that don't fit. So, if anybody orders a chrome cover with with screws...you may have to reuse the stock black screws, or go the nut-n-bolt house and get some stainless steel ones in the correct metric size. I forget...maybe 5mm or 7mm..don't remember.

The ones I bought came with screws also, checked and found they were the same length as the stock ones so I reused the stock ones.
 
A little something for the DIY folks.

When you remove the 3 screws from the stock cover it will more than likely stick in place, I just go to the other side of the trike and use a wooden dowel and a slight tap with the hammer to break it loose. You may also have to unplug the 2 wires to the neutral switch on top of the transmission to gain access to the bottom bolt. One note, if your not comfortable doing this with the battery hooked up then unhook the positive side of the battery first.

imag0084pw.jpg


Remove the cover carefully so you don't tare the gasket and this is what you will see behind the cover.

imag0085ei.jpg


This is the back side of the stock cover with gasket still in place.

imag0087yr.jpg


I didn't see any torque spec in the service manual for the 3 screws that hold the cover on, the manual just says to alternately tighten them until snug. Always remember if you test or use the new button make sure the trike is in neutral first, it would suck to have it take off without you on it.
 

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