A few weeks ago I reported/shared an update on the problems that I was having with my electric shifter. I had shared via the "I'm Giving It All She's Got Captain" that I found what I believed to be the overall problem which was tied to my battery. I realize that a great many riders look in on this Trike page and I thought I might title a page using the words Pingel and Electric Shifter to help make a search better as new riders who might need this information could find it a bit easier.
I wanted to share a few final thoughts that would be found in one post on the subject as compared to the couple that I had developed over the last few months so here goes.
The Pingel Electric Shifter is a great piece of equipment. While not originally designed for "adaptive" riding, it has become embraced by many as a tool to assist those that need the help with shifting the gears, as they look to ride for the first time, or remain riding. Yes, I realize that the Klictronic is out there, however I have no experience with it, thus will leave the workings of that equipment up to others to report on. I also know that there can be pneumatic application, and had a chance to see what a fellow had built while using that technology. It was obvious that he had put a great deal of thought and energy into that application, but again, I have no experience with that as well.
While straight forward in it's application and design for mounting to the Goldwing, as well as other bikes (attaches along with the left foot peg mount), one does need to ensure that you securely mount and attach the shifter bracket, and then properly align the "plunger" (Shifter Rod) to the bracket on the bikes shift lever. There is little tolerance for any binding and the plunger needs to move freely, with no restrictions. This is accomplished with using the correct number of washers to fill any gap between the plunger and the mount on the shifter lever (I'll get some pictures taken and post as an edit).
The plunger has a "halfway" line on it that you can align at the opening to the solenoid as a "starting point" to find the "sweet spot" which will allow for good shifts both up and down while running thought the gears. Minor adjustment are made while loosening the "C" clamp that holds the solenoid (cylinder) in place. Move the solenoid up or down in the clamp a fraction at a time as it does not take much to make a "big change."
The wiring is straight forward and the directions that come with the unit are spot on. However, as I have reported, these are some things to be aware of when it comes to getting the power right. Be sure that your bikes battery is good (ask me how I know, LOL). I had a world of problems, as reported here, with the shifter not working correctly. Having it installed on a new to me bike, and having the battery "appear" to be fine given that the bike started, all lights worked and the battery "appeared" to be healthy, it was not until I finally took it out (after an exhaustive line of eliminating other potential issues) and bench tested it that I discovered that it was in fact "on it's way out," and failed the bench test. When/if you install a new battery, be sure to "lock down" (tighten the daylights out of them) your terminals so as to ensure good contacts. I had reported that a new batter solved all my shifting problems, only to ride home from central PA, on a hot and muggy day, with my wife having to slid forward and down shift each and every time I needed to do so. Over 200 miles and this get old really fast. I was totally ticked until I got home and discovered that while using a "Phillips head" screw driver to first install the terminals even with my hand and grip strength, that was not good enough as they each had worked their way loose and thus the "renewed" shifter problem. (I pity the poor soul that will need to break them free given what I did to ensure a "snug" fit . . . . I will cut the wires, LOL).
In addition to the Pingel I also installed the short shifter that is made by DHS. http://www.dhsracing.com/GL-1800.htm
I had done this early on thinking that it would help me to solve the problem I was having with bad shifts and thus before I realized it was the battery, it had added to my list of "could this be the problem." Once I corrected the battery issue, I have now ridden the Trike over 1,000 miles (test ride to Bryson City and back) and had/have NO bad shifts. I should point out that on the '01' prior to the new Trike I would have a bad shift here and there and I believe the "free play" in the shifter linkage may have caused that. With the new set up, and battery (OVERLY TIGHTENED) all of the shifts have been quick and crisp.
Now a little trick (again I will add a picture when I can) that I came up with to cure/prevent a problem that I had after riding through one of the heaviest down pours I had ever ridden in last year while coming home from Florida.
The two silver buttons that allow you to shift up or down mount up on handle bars. These have some waterproofing qualities about them, but they are not totally sealed and after years of shifts, the seal gets worn. I had mine fail (bucks of rain for many miles) and thus needed to order a new set up. Once I installed them, I took a Ziploc bag and cut it down to size and slipped it over the buttons and taped it in place thus completely sealing the buttons from any weather. To date, this has worked well.
I want to thank all who offered many great suggestions as I was trying to solve the mystery and really want to thank the folks at Pingel. They want way above and beyond with support and tech suggestions as I tried to eliminate what I thought could be issues. Again, way to long to list all the variables that I thought it could have been given the new bike, new this and new that, changes, additions and on and on.
The equipment is very reliable, and now with the short shifter, I think I might be hard pressed to miss any shifts now. I am using the new Lithium battery and will report my findings as time goes by on how that is working out under the stresses of being mounted to "my" Trike and having to service the Pingel.
As always, if I can be of help, send me a PM. While on the road I am not as accessible given that I am not the best with staying "connected," but I will eventually get back to you.
I wanted to share a few final thoughts that would be found in one post on the subject as compared to the couple that I had developed over the last few months so here goes.
The Pingel Electric Shifter is a great piece of equipment. While not originally designed for "adaptive" riding, it has become embraced by many as a tool to assist those that need the help with shifting the gears, as they look to ride for the first time, or remain riding. Yes, I realize that the Klictronic is out there, however I have no experience with it, thus will leave the workings of that equipment up to others to report on. I also know that there can be pneumatic application, and had a chance to see what a fellow had built while using that technology. It was obvious that he had put a great deal of thought and energy into that application, but again, I have no experience with that as well.
While straight forward in it's application and design for mounting to the Goldwing, as well as other bikes (attaches along with the left foot peg mount), one does need to ensure that you securely mount and attach the shifter bracket, and then properly align the "plunger" (Shifter Rod) to the bracket on the bikes shift lever. There is little tolerance for any binding and the plunger needs to move freely, with no restrictions. This is accomplished with using the correct number of washers to fill any gap between the plunger and the mount on the shifter lever (I'll get some pictures taken and post as an edit).
The plunger has a "halfway" line on it that you can align at the opening to the solenoid as a "starting point" to find the "sweet spot" which will allow for good shifts both up and down while running thought the gears. Minor adjustment are made while loosening the "C" clamp that holds the solenoid (cylinder) in place. Move the solenoid up or down in the clamp a fraction at a time as it does not take much to make a "big change."
The wiring is straight forward and the directions that come with the unit are spot on. However, as I have reported, these are some things to be aware of when it comes to getting the power right. Be sure that your bikes battery is good (ask me how I know, LOL). I had a world of problems, as reported here, with the shifter not working correctly. Having it installed on a new to me bike, and having the battery "appear" to be fine given that the bike started, all lights worked and the battery "appeared" to be healthy, it was not until I finally took it out (after an exhaustive line of eliminating other potential issues) and bench tested it that I discovered that it was in fact "on it's way out," and failed the bench test. When/if you install a new battery, be sure to "lock down" (tighten the daylights out of them) your terminals so as to ensure good contacts. I had reported that a new batter solved all my shifting problems, only to ride home from central PA, on a hot and muggy day, with my wife having to slid forward and down shift each and every time I needed to do so. Over 200 miles and this get old really fast. I was totally ticked until I got home and discovered that while using a "Phillips head" screw driver to first install the terminals even with my hand and grip strength, that was not good enough as they each had worked their way loose and thus the "renewed" shifter problem. (I pity the poor soul that will need to break them free given what I did to ensure a "snug" fit . . . . I will cut the wires, LOL).
In addition to the Pingel I also installed the short shifter that is made by DHS. http://www.dhsracing.com/GL-1800.htm
I had done this early on thinking that it would help me to solve the problem I was having with bad shifts and thus before I realized it was the battery, it had added to my list of "could this be the problem." Once I corrected the battery issue, I have now ridden the Trike over 1,000 miles (test ride to Bryson City and back) and had/have NO bad shifts. I should point out that on the '01' prior to the new Trike I would have a bad shift here and there and I believe the "free play" in the shifter linkage may have caused that. With the new set up, and battery (OVERLY TIGHTENED) all of the shifts have been quick and crisp.
Now a little trick (again I will add a picture when I can) that I came up with to cure/prevent a problem that I had after riding through one of the heaviest down pours I had ever ridden in last year while coming home from Florida.
The two silver buttons that allow you to shift up or down mount up on handle bars. These have some waterproofing qualities about them, but they are not totally sealed and after years of shifts, the seal gets worn. I had mine fail (bucks of rain for many miles) and thus needed to order a new set up. Once I installed them, I took a Ziploc bag and cut it down to size and slipped it over the buttons and taped it in place thus completely sealing the buttons from any weather. To date, this has worked well.
I want to thank all who offered many great suggestions as I was trying to solve the mystery and really want to thank the folks at Pingel. They want way above and beyond with support and tech suggestions as I tried to eliminate what I thought could be issues. Again, way to long to list all the variables that I thought it could have been given the new bike, new this and new that, changes, additions and on and on.
The equipment is very reliable, and now with the short shifter, I think I might be hard pressed to miss any shifts now. I am using the new Lithium battery and will report my findings as time goes by on how that is working out under the stresses of being mounted to "my" Trike and having to service the Pingel.
As always, if I can be of help, send me a PM. While on the road I am not as accessible given that I am not the best with staying "connected," but I will eventually get back to you.
