Need some help with exhaust

[johnchaparteguy]

I am in the process of putting the final touches on a trike conversion from Frankenstein. I installed the Vance and Hines Staggered Shortshots so it would clear the rear axle, and installed the quiet baffels. We live in Southern California and like to ride around the beach cities. Problem is the law is cracking down on noise from bikes. Does anyone know of a way to quiet down what she has or make a suggestion on a exhaust that would clear the rear axle. The trike conversion started as a 2009 Harley 1200XL Sportster. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Nana]

Hello John, and welcome to TrikeTalk. Sounds like a great trike you are building! Share some pictures with the forum! There are some very wise and experienced members on here.....You'll get lots of help!

 

[Smoken'JOE]

Welcome John................you could try wrapping the baffles with baffle material. That will take more of the "bite" out of the bark. The pics are from my Cobra baffles.
Baffle wrap replacement pictures by smokenjoe46 - Photobucket

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Keep two fresh and aerated potatoes with you at all times... when you see a LEO, slam the potatoes in your exhaust pipe and putter past him. Works for me!



NO? Well, OK :blush:

Wrapping a baffle can actually cause the db level to be greater. Explanation:

If a baffle is wrapped tightly with insulating material the sound will simply pass through the open exhaust as your baffle vents will be blocked. So, the trick is to loosely wrap the baffle and/or use low density material. The best sound (deep) is produced by wrapping the internal portion of the muffler "can" which makes a clean hole for the actual baffle to sit in. This way you can remove the baffle and no material will come out with it. This works great for a larger muffler can.

Unfortunately, you can't do this with any success on a set of short or long shots.

There is no "can" to work with as the distance between the baffle and the inner part of the exhaust tubing is slight. You can reduce your db level a little but due to the baffle clearance it will not be much at all. Remember, the trick it so keep the material loose so the baffle vents will work.

The exhaust manufacturers know this and increase or decrease the number of baffle vents, size and perforation angle combined with the material density. This is what creates "their signature sound".

-wiz

 

[Gorilla]

Welcome aboard John. You might have to resort to dumping the exhaust in front of the rear wheels to use a quiter muffler. The other is to custom bend some pipes to allow the exhaust to go out the back and double up the mufflers. Can't really come up with any more ideas without seeing the trike.

 

[drvndbus]

you could always goto a local exhaust shop and get some stainless pipes bent and run out the back of the bike with some baffles inserted

 

[Puff]

you could always goto a local exhaust shop and get some stainless pipes bent and run out the back of the bike with some baffles inserted

I've spent this week 'doctoring' a set of Cobra 6 into 6 pipes. After realizing what
a mammoth task it was to 'thread' 6 pipes through the rear suspension setup on my
DFT kit, I rode it to the local exhaust shop and have requested they do it for me.

I do like to have 'hands on' with any mod, but sometimes one has to resort to the experts
with their expensive equipment. One interesting side effect to this exercise,
was after mounting the six pipes to the engine, I then had to ride it through
a busy and bustling shopping centre with 6 unbaffled 2" pipes... I could see
bricks and mortar crumbling from buildings as I went past. No matter how quickly
I short shifted through the gears, or how lightly I twisted the throttle, it still sounded
like a NASCAR racer on steroids... very embarrassing :blush: (but a lot of fun)
The six ends have 14" baffles inside, so the ride home will be a lot quieter,
and once again (since the conversion) I'll have that wonderful unbridled F6 sound

 

[jimhd89]

Hi John. I understand your problem having a couple sets of vance & hines stored in my garage. One late model sportster set,and one flht set. Because you have a rubber mount sportster with a cross over pipe that is part of the muffler system (not part of the header pipes) this creates extra work when triking your bike. If you extend out past the axle you will need pipe hangers which are also mounted with rubber. My simple suggestion would to switch over to harley screamin eagle slip on. The biggest diameter" can" they have. Turn out or side dump ends. This will retain your cross over balence and not need any extra hardware. Also with the bigger diameter mufflers you will keep some low end power where you need it on a trike.

If you give the s.e. pipes a chance they will devolpe a nice rumble after they are on and break in. The other benefit is no cracking or decell poping. I know I was a little long winded but I hope this helps. Times have changed and less loud equals more power when tuned right. Good luck Jim

 

[WindyOne]

Motor Trike uses a 2 into 1 muffler on their kits. I was told it avoided an interference problem with the IR axle. Maybe something like that could help your situation.

 

[Nauga Mok]

Installing a "ballance tube" (cross over) between pipes cuts the harsh crack out of the exhaust sound. It also helps the horse power. This is one reason the 2 into 1 systems work so well.

NM

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Not meaning to dis or argue with NM... but did you mean to say Torque? Since HP comes on at a higher RPM it is enhanced with true duals or more open pipes, torque likes more back flow resistance in non racing motors around low and mid range RPM's.

2 in 1's are great for bottom end torque. The 2009 and up X style touring pipes are similar to a set of 2 in 1's and increase your torque if there is no catalyst in the X.

 

[Nauga Mok]

I used the term "horse power" because most people understand it. Not so many understand "torque" even though that's the "useable twist" we want out of our engines. You're right about how the different exhaust set ups affect the output of an engine.

NM

 

[Mr.Wizard]

I'll defiantly agree with you there. Thanks again for the explanation NM.



For the others...

Torque moves mass. (low and mid range seat of the pants feeling when you take off)

HP keeps mass in motion. (mid and hi range feeling of holding on with your knees because you are going too fast)

Torque and HP bands look like a flat yet long X on a chart. The torque comes on early then shoots down and across the HP band which goes up as torque comes down. How early this takes place in the X depends on your build but is effected more by which cam you run.