Leading Link procured. Want to "float" the brakes. Need help.

[grandpanystrom61]

Hard metal to soft metal, what needs to be done ?

I must of gotten lost, and so much information on this thread. I figure I will just keep with it so it is a more information thread for others.

I have been slowly working on the floating fender support legs. I used 1/4" thick plate 304 SS and worked and cut out it all by hand. I have been sanding them for the finish, but have a ?????

The legs will ride on the wheel hub bearing spacer's, which are made out of aluminum, all has been made and calculated using these spacers, so do I use a oillite bushing pressed into the fender leg so that the inner side of the busing is rolling freely around the pinched bearing spacer, that is aluminum ??? Pictures, I will see about them.

Plus if I put the flanged side to the inside of the hub spacer, the thickness of the flange holds the leg out away from ever hitting or rubbing on things, just another reason I though of using the flanged bushing.

The left bearing bushing is larger DIA than the right, so had to get to different size flanged bearings.





The forks will be on a 48 degree rake, but that should be the general position of it all. The cardboard template is what I used to make the legs with, which are still a little bigger than cardboard piece...…….arms and feet got worn out working it down to the lines.

 

[rodekyll]

My choice would be a bushing over a bearing, and I'd want something I could inject grease into (zirc?) in order to push out grit. I didn't install lubeable bushings in mine and the floaters stick sometimes. Keep in mind that I'm not an accomplished LL engineer. My experience is limited to the one I built.

Ball and roller bearings really want to go in a full circle rather than a few degrees to and fro. There's not enough travel on the floating brackets to use a roller or ball bearing -- they'll notch and grab like a swing arm or steering bearinng does when the ball/roller travels over the same few degrees .

The brackets look really nice though. I wish mine were as lyrical.

 

[vwbug72501]

Andy,

Looking at the picture of your set up I see one thing that causes concern. The caliper bracket anti rotation link looks a little light.

Consider the lever arm that exists between the axle pivot point and the caliper pads and the axle pivot point and the anti rotation link mounting point. What amount of rotational force do you expect to be applied to these lever arms under panic braking situations? Consider forward weight transfer during a panic stop when figuring the force applied before tire lock up occurs (maximum brake lever arm forces).

My concern is what is the maximum tension force for the threads in the material at the diameter you have selected for the anti rotation link?

You really don't need the "excitement" of having the front brakes go away in a panic stop!

Nice looking front end!!!

 

[grandpanystrom61]

I did read another thread that stated they had used underrated material for the brake pivot stay. I will check and make sure that I did get a stronger stay, and if not, I will get that corrected.

Thanks for the heads up, no one wants shit to happen when doing a "panic braking"...…………….

 

[grandpanystrom61]

The 6" thread shaft is Carbon Steel, did not find any strength rating on the website, McMasterCarr, but I believe I wanted 4060 steel rod, need to read back, my bad ordering when I want to do things. The swivel joint is 303SS and the static radial load cap., lbs, is 2100. The shoulder bolts that mount the swivels are High Strength 17-4 PH SS with a tensil strength of 130,000psi and the note that spe.'s met are ASME B18.3, guess further searhing could teach me what that all means..... Yes I did jump into it, but I think I am getting the help needed to be sucessful with this project...

Thank you all very much for your input and help.

 

[vwbug72501]

Didn't you post a while back that you had a family member that worked at at machine shop? They should have access to the properties data that you need. I would be interested to find out how much stretching force could be applied to the stay rod threads before they fail. Check out the data on fine threads vs coarse threads mild steel vs 4060 steel, and also look at the same data for larger diameter rods.

As for the expected lever arm forces and tire coefficient of friction, etc calculations, maybe your local high school physics teacher (or one of his students) could help. This kind of information isn't always easily available and that is why a lot of people adopt the "Bigger is Better" design approach. Your forks have a light and streamlined look that is appropriate for your trike so I understand your wanting to keep everything minimal.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Didn't you post a while back that you had a family member that worked at at machine shop? They should have access to the properties data that you need. I would be interested to find out how much stretching force could be applied to the stay rod threads before they fail. Check out the data on fine threads vs coarse threads mild steel vs 4060 steel, and also look at the same data for larger diameter rods.

As for the expected lever arm forces and tire coefficient of friction, etc calculations, maybe your local high school physics teacher (or one of his students) could help. This kind of information isn't always easily available and that is why a lot of people adopt the "Bigger is Better" design approach. Your forks have a light and streamlined look that is appropriate for your trike so I understand your wanting to keep everything minimal.

Wow, my mind did not even go that way. I just ran with my mind and some input helped me this far.

I really do see your point, a math head (but not that deep) so I will have to search out the help in figuring it out. I do agree it will not be a waste of time, I just hope that I only have the one issue.

I thought I had it, was getting excited, still am, just wondering how all will work out math wise. Need to get a new total weight of the trike, or a very close estimate, so the math can be done. More to do...…….

 

[TomyJ]

Springer disc

Found these when I was looking for RebelRouser's rear, right side, 11.5, .210w rotor to a caliper, not to much different from the chrome one, hope this helps, If NOT? I tried. I really like your work...

 

[stacebg]

View attachment 78818View attachment 78817View attachment 78819Found these when I was looking for RebelRouser's rear, right side, 11.5, .210w rotor to a caliper, not to much different from the chrome one, hope this helps, If NOT? I tried. I really like your work...

that what i was talking about lol

 

[grandpanystrom61]

View attachment 78818View attachment 78817View attachment 78819Found these when I was looking for RebelRouser's rear, right side, 11.5, .210w rotor to a caliper, not to much different from the chrome one, hope this helps, If NOT? I tried. I really like your work...

Yes that would have been a nice way to go at it, would have been done a long time ago. I jumped the gone making the brake stay, thought of it as a challenge, than one thing lead to another and I am almost done now.

Granddaughters came to stay in the our house, so I lost my play room and moved out to the garage, shit is tight, so have to get the projects done and trike put back together so I can breath, LOL.

The oil-lite bushing are to thin for a grease fitting, and they are suppose to be self oiling, but agree a thin layer of grease may help all keep moving freely.

Family talks more than helps, it does hurt some, but I can still get things done, just takes me a bit longer.

The family here has given much more help than I ever imagined, even gave me the confidence boost I needed. Thank you all so much.

 

[TomyJ]

Springer Front Caliper

I want to go with this one?

Springer Front Caliper Bracket Mount ( Left or Right ) Can a grease fitting be added? IF there is enough material and what is the measurements side ways to clear my swing arm to rotor, I hate all these variables' :gah: ​

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Jumping into things is not always the best, but it can all work out in the end. I forgot the process to doing metal work, so I did get things to the machine shop to get my holes cut out, we talked more and I realized I was skipping a few steps. I will get on this more so that it gets done. Zech is more excited to help finish this up than I thought, it felt good.



Oh, spent over a week hand sanding and getting dia. of a bushing large enough to slide over the wheel bearing spacer, oh and I get to do it again after the press fit of them, all gets a bit tighter after pressing them in.