Engine Date

[DeathBySnuSnu]

The 60 to 65 1200 single port looks the same from the outside. But is a completely different engine than anything after 66.

The single port intake is smaller in diameter.

And it had a smaller looking carb. Less cluttered looking.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Single port 66 to 70.

1300, 1500, 1600 cc

This pic has an alternator conversion.

But look at the intake manifold where it connects to the head.

Now you have me second guessing if it a single port or dual port. i will try to get the picture thong figured out and get some posted this weekend. i plan on pulling the engine saturday morning hopefully i find out its just the rear main leaking.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Now that you know it is a swing axle there are 2 major series of them.

Short axle and long axle.

The short axle ones were with 1200cc 40hp engines. Lower geared and originaly fit the 6volt starter. 61 to mid 66

The long axle came out for the larger engines. It has stronger and taller gears. Mid 66 through 68.

Only the 68 had a swing axle with 4 bolt wheels.

I am going to assume it is not pre 1960 as that trans is made very different.

All this is usa models only.

The swing was in production untill the end in other countries, as long as it is not a mexi or euro beetle we will be ok assuming a year model.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Now that you know it is a swing axle there are 2 major series of them.

Short axle and long axle.

The short axle ones were with 1200cc 40hp engines. Lower geared and originaly fit the 6volt starter. 61 to mid 66

The long axle came out for the larger engines. It has stronger and taller gears. Mid 66 through 68.

Only the 68 had a swing axle with 4 bolt wheels.

I am going to assume it is not pre 1960 as that trans is made very different.

All this is usa models only.

The swing was in production untill the end in other countries, as long as it is not a mexi or euro beetle we will be ok assuming a year model.

Ok it has 5 bolt wheels, how would I find out if its a euro, Mexican, or American? like I said earlier I plan on pulling the engine this weekend so hopefully I can get some pics and get them uploaded. Also it is a 12 volt system, I believe it has an external voltage regulator if that helps any. Is it possible to put the clutch back on the flywheel when I get done without the alignment tool?

 

[stinger608]

Ok it has 5 bolt wheels, how would I find out if its a euro, Mexican, or American? like I said earlier I plan on pulling the engine this weekend so hopefully I can get some pics and get them uploaded. Also it is a 12 volt system, I believe it has an external voltage regulator if that helps any. Is it possible to put the clutch back on the flywheel when I get done without the alignment tool?

I would be almost 100% sure it is a USA version. Euro and Mexican versions are fairly rare to find.

Having an external voltage regulator just indicates it's a generator setup rather than an alternator version.

Usually, you can realign the clutch close enough using a round 3/8" ratchet or pick you up a wood dowel from your local hardware store.

There is also a thread that has the picture uploading tutorials here:

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/21006-How-To-Post-a-Picture

Keep us posted brother! :clapping:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes the chances of being a non usa model are low. A lot more if them were brought into the usa by individuals than you would ever believe. But they are mostly gone now. I have had a Euro model, it was driven down from canada.

You being in TX you have a better chance of seeing a mexi.

But.

We have almost eliminated that. If it was say....a 74 mexi, it would be a long axle swing with 4 bolt wheels.

So now what we are trying to determine is what series usa trans it is.

Early = short = 61 to 66

Late = long= 66 to 68.

 

[Diamondtrike]

I would be almost 100% sure it is a USA version. Euro and Mexican versions are fairly rare to find.

Having an external voltage regulator just indicates it's a generator setup rather than an alternator version.

Usually, you can realign the clutch close enough using a round 3/8" ratchet or pick you up a wood dowel from your local hardware store.

There is also a thread that has the picture uploading tutorials here:

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/21006-How-To-Post-a-Picture

Keep us posted brother! :clapping:

Thanks for the help

 

[Diamondtrike]

Yes the chances of being a non usa model are low. A lot more if them were brought into the usa by individuals than you would ever believe. But they are mostly gone now. I have had a Euro model, it was driven down from canada.

You being in TX you have a better chance of seeing a mexi.

But.

We have almost eliminated that. If it was say....a 74 mexi, it would be a long axle swing with 4 bolt wheels.

So now what we are trying to determine is what series usa trans it is.

Early = short = 61 to 66

Late = long= 66 to 68.

It's kind of hard to see but this a screen shot the show the axle, it kind of looks like the longer one.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Hopefully this works, this is a short video of it running right before i found the massive oil leak.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Could not get the vid to work.

But that is looking 66 to 68 model.

That is a single port engine.

This was the growth spurt years.

1300, 1500 then 1600cc. They are all related.

Same case and crank..

Cylinders and valve size being the main difference.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Could not get the vid to work.

But that is looking 66 to 68 model.

That is a single port engine.

This was the growth spurt years.

1300, 1500 then 1600cc. They are all related.

Same case and crank..

Cylinders and valve size being the main difference.

ok so now were getting somewhere!!!:clapping:

I was reading somewhere that the cam plug on vw engine are rubber, what years was that type of plug used? If my leak turns out to be the plug and not the rear main, is there a way to replace the plug without splitting the case? if it has a steel plug could i replace it with a rubber one?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

The vw cam plug has a raised v around it and fits in a notch.

This is the flywheel end.

This engine has had the galley plugs removed then threaded for pipe plugs (blue things)

This is an aftermarket rubber coated cam plug.

They are known to come out/fail easily. Nothing holds them in.

 

[Diamondtrike]

The vw cam plug has a raised v around it and fits in a notch.

This is the flywheel end.

This engine has had the galley plugs removed then threaded for pipe plugs (blue things)

This is an aftermarket rubber coated cam plug.

They are known to come out/fail easily. Nothing holds them in.

after seeing that raised section in the factory cam plug that pretty much tells me that to remove one if it is leaking will require splitting the case. i just really hope that its just the rear main that is leaking on mine!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Check the bearing also.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

q

 

[Diamondtrike]

Ok so I need opinions before I get started pulling the engine. which part failing would cause the most severe leak the rear main, the cam plug, or the oil galley plug? Keep in mind my leak is pouring oil out, after about 15 minutes of run time it dumped about a quart of oil on the catch pan. Also which is more common?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

All that is fairly irrelevant because of how old and how "worked on" the old dub is.

I see more back yard mechanic mistakes than anything else.

Most oil?, galley plug, also is least likely.

If it has been worked on.....cam plug installed wrong. Or wrong flywheel for the crank. Or flywheel loose.

If it has not been worked on ..... main seal and hammered out bearing to case fit.

The least likely (but possible) is the engine is all fine and the seal decided to give up.

You will not know untill you take it apart.

It could be something totally un thought of.

 

[Doug D.]

Is it possible to put the clutch back on the flywheel when I get done without the alignment tool?

In the absence of an alignment tool, I once used a 13mm deep well socket to align the clutch plate. It worked perfectly. Slick hack or just dumb luck?

 

[Diamondtrike]

Well I managed to get the engine out today, set it on the back porch. Once I got the clutch off I found that the gland nut( I think that's what its called) was tack welded to the fly wheel!!! Any reason that someone would weld it? Anyway, get a dremel after the welds and managed to grind them down enough to get a socket on it. after a few solid hits with a 1/2in impact the remaining welds broke and the nut came right off. pulled the flywheel off and found the rear main seal was still soft like it had been changed recently (I know it hasn't been changed in years). even though it was still soft about 1 1/2 inch of the rubber was torn away from the metal outer ring and the spring was just sitting in there but not inside the rubber like it should have been. so hopefully just replacing the seal and flywheel o'ring should fix my problem. sadly I cannot post pictures right now because it keeps giving me an error.

 

[Diamondtrike]

In the absence of an alignment tool, I once used a 13mm deep well socket to align the clutch plate. It worked perfectly. Slick hack or just dumb luck?

Well once I get my new seals, I'm going to try your trick! of course I will have to order the parts, but the clutch seems to be ok for now so im not going to replace it at this point so I wont have the alignment tool lol

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Ahhhhh. Another hack job.

Is it a 180mm clutch or 200?

The only reason to weld the nut is because it keeps coming loose.

The main reason it comes loose is wallowed out dowel pin holes.

Check the pin fit in crank and flywheel.

If the pins wiggle or spin in the holes you have big problems.

Wiggle and spin on the main bearing while you are there.

And.... flywheel o ring.......sounds like you have the correct flywheel for a 67 and up.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Looks like im going to have to get a new clutch fork bushing too



As you can see the main seal was the cause of the major oil leak! Of course nobody around here carries the parts I need so I will have order online.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Ahhhhh. Another hack job.

Is it a 180mm clutch or 200?

The only reason to weld the nut is because it keeps coming loose.

The main reason it comes loose is wallowed out dowel pin holes.

Check the pin fit in crank and flywheel.

If the pins wiggle or spin in the holes you have big problems.

Wiggle and spin on the main bearing while you are there.

And.... flywheel o ring.......sounds like you have the correct flywheel for a 67 and up.

The dowl pins all seem tight in the crank and the flywheel, im wondering if the last time it was off the person doing it didn't have the right tools to get the gland nut tight enough so the tack welded it to keep it from backing off. actually that what im hoping for. im not sure if its 180 or 200 clutch, I do know it is the old 3 finger pressure plate, I will check later to see if its the 6 spring or 9 spring, and I will measure it to see if it is 180mm or 200mm.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Here are some other pictures I took while working on it yesterday

 

[Diamondtrike]

Ok got a few more pictures of the pressure plate and clutch assembly.



If I did the conversion right, it comes out to 177mm so I guess that means its a 180mm clutch disk. with a 6 spring pressure plate. also you can see the gland nut, and what I had to do to get it off lol when I order my main seal I guess I will be ordering a new gland nut and roller bearing.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Hmmmmm.

interesting

Looking like a 66 model 1300.

How many teeth on the flywheel?

Washer is missing on gland nut.

stock washer does not fully cover dowels. Around half way maybe.

Maybe with the missing washer someone thought they were keeping the pins in the holes.

That is the lightest grip of all the clutches right there.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Hmmmmm.

interesting

Looking like a 66 model 1300.

How many teeth on the flywheel?

Washer is missing on gland nut.

stock washer does not fully cover dowels. Around half way maybe.

Maybe with the missing washer someone thought they were keeping the pins in the holes.

That is the lightest grip of all the clutches right there.

No clue on the number of teeth on the flywheel, didn't think to count them lol.

Yes the washer is missing, all the tack welds are covering the dowel holes.

with it being on a trike with a really light front end, would it be wise to stay with the light grip pressure plate?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Number of teeth will help identify it further.

I would increase the clutch.

the 180 should not be a problem on a non hot rod trike.

If you can find it a nine spring, or a luk diaphram.

No need for a hot rod "stage" clutch untill you add more power.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Number of teeth will help identify it further.

I would increase the clutch.

the 180 should not be a problem on a non hot rod trike.

If you can find it a nine spring, or a luk diaphram.

No need for a hot rod "stage" clutch untill you add more power.

LOL there will be NO power added!! I was talking to a guy that worked on it years ago before it got shoved in storage and he was telling me that you can't use first gear unless you want to drag the crash bar off the back! so with that being said, I may just leave the clutch the way it is for now plus my wife will be the primary driver of it and doesn't know how to drive a manual transmission so she will be learning. No sense in spending money on a clutch just to burn it up, I would rather wait a little while then put a new clutch in it after the learning process is over.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Hmmmmm.

How many teeth on the flywheel?

I just checked, there are 110 teeth on the flywheel