DK Lift Kit

[jc1300]

OK - Help a brother out please. As the Comfort Lift and the Standard Lift Kits bring the back up basically the same distance. Can someone explain why you would NOT go the Comfort route? I can't find anywhere here on the site where it explains if there is a difference in handling?

As it gets closer to Winter I need to get my cold weather jobs all lined up!

Thanks - jc

 

[Gorilla]

OK - Help a brother out please. As the Comfort Lift and the Standard Lift Kits bring the back up basically the same distance. Can someone explain why you would NOT go the Comfort route? I can't find anywhere here on the site where it explains if there is a difference in handling?

As it gets closer to Winter I need to get my cold weather jobs all lined up!

Thanks - jc

Being that DK is one of our sponsors and Kevin all ways answers everyones questions why not PM him directly and get your questions answered from the person that sells them.

 

[jc1300]

Being that DK is one of our sponsors and Kevin all ways answers everyones questions why not PM him directly and get your questions answered from the person that sells them.

Kevin has answered questions for me not just on Trike parts, but others over the years. But I was hoping that real life users of the lift kits had any input. Just a thought.....

 

[DK Custom Products]

OK - Help a brother out please. As the Comfort Lift and the Standard Lift Kits bring the back up basically the same distance. Can someone explain why you would NOT go the Comfort route? I can't find anywhere here on the site where it explains if there is a difference in handling?

As it gets closer to Winter I need to get my cold weather jobs all lined up!

Thanks - jc

What is the difference between a Tri-Glide Lift Kit & a Tri-Glide Comfort Lift Kit?​

The Tri-Glide Lift Kit & The Comfort Lift Kit replaces the stock shock mounts of your Tri-Glide. They both give an increase of 1.25" at the shocks and 1.6" at the rear of the bike. The difference between the two is that The Comfort Lift Kit also slightly changes the angle of the shocks rearward on the swingarm. The suspension now absorbs more of the smaller and larger road imperfections, resulting in less of the bumps being passed on to the rider and passenger.
Net result is a Smoother, Plusher ride.

FITMENT NOTES:The Comfort Lift works with all Tri-Glides & Freewheelers.Not for use in applications where running maximum PSI And the shocks are regularly bottoming out. This typically only occurs when running over the maximum rider/passenger/luggage of 540 lbs AND on poor roads. If this is your situation, it is better to run the Standard Tri-Glide Lift Kit.


There is no discernible difference in handling between the two different lift kits...just a smoother ride with the Comfort Lift.


There is a difference in handling between stock and either lift kit.

1. The steering requires a bit less effort, it is not a huge difference, but most people notice it.

2. There is more traction for the front tire, resulting in more front braking power before lock up, and in better front tire traction in a curve or a corner.


Kevin

 

[Fearless]

What he said!

My lift kit is one of the best things done to improve handling and overall ride ability. Hands down the thing to do. :Coffee: ride safely fearless.

 

[jwkhd1]

My lift kit is one of the best things done to improve handling and overall ride ability. Hands down the thing to do. :Coffee: ride safely fearless.

ThumbUp I second that !

 

[Sunman]

Installed a Comfort Lift Kit on my Free Wheeler and my wife and I both could tell a difference in the ride. Kit was top quality and the instructions were good.

Sunman

 

[jc1300]

So unless I'm a heavy on packing the Trike ~ Appears the Comfort option is the way to go - jc

 

[BOXX3R]

I just ordered my Comfort kit this morning. I will do an Install thread with pics once it arrives.

 

[rwhgme]

My wife has NEVER learned to pack light. I have the Comfort lift. It has sharpened the handling up and made my job easier. My 2010 trike has been a joy ever since the mod. Before, the front end never felt planted. It does now. Comfort has been improved. I weigh 200 and my wife weighs between 100 and 130 (being diplomatic here). The trike replaced an 1100 Suzuki 2 wheeler.

 

[BOXX3R]

I ordered the lift kit on Monday, and got it this morning. Now that is some GREAT turn around time

I set my tools out and started to follow the printed instructions. First I rolled the trike up onto a pair of RHINO Ramps . I had tried to practice lift the rear end prior to getting the kit, and found if I used a 2-Ton floor jack in the recommended rear lift point (centered under the clutch cover) it did NOT lift the rear end, just the front end. So I made a pair of 2 x 10 x 18 boards with eye bolts and got a pair of 5 gallon buckets full of 50 pounds of sand each, then strapped the front wheel down using a tie down. I also put a Velcro strap around the front brake lever and a chalk up against the front wheel. Then I loosened the rear lug nuts.

But when I got to step #3.......and tried to lift the rear end to get it up off the ramps so I could put the jack stands under the rear lift points, it still just lifted the front wheel along with the full buckets, and not the rear end.

The illustration and wordage in both the owners manual and the Shop manual for the Trike both seem to be for a 'motorcycle' and not a trike specific.

Where am I going wrong?????????

 

[uppercaseJC]

Seems to me you need to lift the bike under the axle first. Then put stands under the forward trunk frame. Where you are lifting the trike is not going to work.

 

[BOXX3R]

Seems to me you need to lift the bike under the axle first. Then put stands under the forward trunk frame. Where you are lifting the trike is not going to work.

EXACTLY...which is why I posed the question I may be making this much harder than it needs to be, but I am new so I don't mind asking for advise from the many who have actually already done this lift install.

Both the owners manual as well as the Shop manual are rather misleading about the rear jacking point on a Trike. I have read NOT to jack the Trike from the center of the axle under the pumpkin. And there is not much room to place a jack on either side of the axle because of these tie-down loops.

So I made a block out of a piece of 2x4 so I could use this location to jack up one side of the axle at a time and then place the jack stands under the trunk frame.

 

[BOXX3R]

Thank You...I needed some encouraging words. I did not realize it was already after 3:00 pm, and I am starving. I am going to take a break, eat some lunch and then tackle the big lift.

If it works I will take pics as I go and then post a DK Lift Kit Install thread once I am done and not dead or stuck under the Trike.

 

[BOXX3R]

I am at a loss here. The ramps are in the way of properly placing the floor jack under either side of the axle. And even if I take it off the ramps and try to jack it up from the floor, the floor jack will be right in the way of where I need to place the jack stands under the crossmember. So until I get a definitive answer with pictures how to safely jack this mother off....the ground, I am calling it a day.

 

[Recall]

If you are not against it, I drilled two holes in my floor, put anchors in and use two eye bolts. I then use a ratchet strap to hold the front wheel down. When done, the eye bolts come out for a clean smooth floor. YMMV Just a thought.

 

[BOXX3R]

If you are not against it, I drilled two holes in my floor, put anchors in and use two eye bolts. I then use a ratchet strap to hold the front wheel down. When done, the eye bolts come out for a clean smooth floor. YMMV Just a thought.

Thanks for your idea, and I thought about drilling the floor, but would really rather not. So I tried my sand bucket idea, to no avail.

A number of others have successfully installed these lift kits, and I believe without having to drill holes and mount eye bolts into the floor. I will wait to proceed until I get some input (hopefully with pictures) from those who have done this install.

 

[Sunman]

`I don't have pictures and I have a Freewheeler, not a triglide but, your picture with the jack under the clutch housing shows that you could move the jack / wood block another 3 or 4 inches toward the back of the frame. My manual says to put the lift under the frame where the down tubes join the frame. This extra few inches just might be enough to get the rear wheels off the ground. I placed my lift as far back on the frame tubes as I possibly could. When I lifted the trike it was barley balanced but I did get the rear wheels off the ground and the trike high enough to get the jack stands under the rear frame member like the instructions say.

Maybe this will help. Good luck.

Sunman

 

[clint44]

Could you not put jack stands under the front engine guards,then raise the rear?

 

[BOXX3R]

Thanks Sunman, It doesn't show in the picture, but I was actually slightly behind center of the clutch cover.
I guess I was just not far enough behind center. I will move the jack back as far as I can and give her another go tomorrow.

Even if it does work, I would still like to SEE how others have jacked one side of the axle up to then place jack stands under the front part of the trunk crossmember. These Trikes are Tricky.

 

[DK Custom Products]

Thanks Sunman, It doesn't show in the picture, but I was actually slightly behind center of the clutch cover.
I guess I was just not far enough behind center. I will move the jack back as far as I can and give her another go tomorrow.

Even if it does work, I would still like to SEE how others have jacked one side of the axle up to then place jack stands under the front part of the trunk crossmember. These Trikes are Tricky.

In our instructions we do not contradict the manual. Sunman is correct, you can do it per the HD manual, and it will barely work, and should work fairly easily with your sand bucket set up. I am pretty sure in the HD manual they are assuming that the front tire is pinched in a wheel chock. It works very easily that way. The key is to get the jack all the way back on the frame like outlined in the manual.

All that said, that is not how I do it, if I am working without a wheel chock.

Don't use the ramps. Put your jack under the spot you pictured with you cut out piece of wood. Jack just that side up (the other sides tire will stay on the ground. Put the jack stand under the front crossmember. Then go to the other side and repeat.

DO NOT jack up from below the pulley guard.

If your jack does not leave room for the jack stand (mine must be smaller, because it does) then see if you can get to the tie down loop from the front. If not, then use a different jack.

I have been in situations where I used a scissor jack from a truck, and it works fine.

Kevin

 

[BOXX3R]

Thank you Kevin ThumbUp I was hoping and grateful that you took the time to chime in while on your epic ride.
I will give it another try tomorrow with my buckets-O-sand and the floor jack as far back under the frame as possible.

 

[msocko3]

If you are not against it, I drilled two holes in my floor, put anchors in and use two eye bolts. I then use a ratchet strap to hold the front wheel down. When done, the eye bolts come out for a clean smooth floor. YMMV Just a thought.

That is how I do it when not using the table lift, my dad did the same as you. Just remove the eye bolts and put flat screws in when not using them.

 

[BOXX3R]

Houston, we have Lift Off

This morning I was just about ready to bite the bullet and go get some concrete anchors and drill the floor. But I decided to give the bucket brigade one more try.

I put 25+ more pounds in each bucket and moved the floor jack as far back as I possibly could, then slowly started jacking it up. And I'll be damned if it didn't work She is now sitting firmly on the jack stands.

Now I can go on to step #7 and beyond.

 

[uppercaseJC]

This morning I was just about ready to bite the bullet and go get some concrete anchors and drill the floor. But I decided to give the bucket brigade one more try.

I put 25+ more pounds in each bucket and moved the floor jack as far back as I possibly could, then slowly started jacking it up. And I'll be damned if it didn't work She is now sitting firmly on the jack stands.

Now I can go on to step #7 and beyond.

Well done . your persistence paid off. Keeping taking pics and help us all!!

 

[BOXX3R]

Well done . your persistence paid off. Keeping taking pics and help us all!!

Not quite yet.....With the jack stands in this forward position there is very little room to swing the 3/4" wrench, and this bolt is in there VERY VERY tight. So I think I will have to jack her back up and move the jack stands to the rear and under the bracket that is just forward of the very rear bracket (see arrow) Then I should have enough room to get some leverage on the bolt.

They say we learn from our mistakes. If that is true, I must be learning a lot. I will keep you posted.

 

[msocko3]

This morning I was just about ready to bite the bullet and go get some concrete anchors and drill the floor. But I decided to give the bucket brigade one more try. I put 25+ more pounds in each bucket and moved the floor jack as far back as I possibly could, then slowly started jacking it up. And I'll be damned if it didn't work She is now sitting firmly on the jack stands. Now I can go on to step #7 and beyond.

In the one jack stand location picture it looks like it's going to bust your balls getting the bottom shock bolt out. Could be just the angle of the picture.

 

[BOXX3R]

I lifted her up again and moved the jack stands to the front of the rear crossmember brackets. Then I set about to loosen the bolts on the left (parking brake) side. Man these suckers were in there tight, and it could be a real knuckle buster if one is not careful. But then once the bolts were all loose the bottom two hit the parking brake bracket. My guess is I/we have to remove the parking brake bracket to get the bolts out??????

To add insult to injury....a 16GB memory card for my camera just formatted (erased) itself of hundreds and hundreds of pictures If I was a drinking man now would be a great time for a cocktail or two.

 

[uppercaseJC]

I lifted her up again and moved the jack stands to the front of the rear crossmember brackets. Then I set about to loosen the bolts on the left (parking brake) side. Man these suckers were in there tight, and it could be a real knuckle buster if one is not careful. But then once the bolts were all loose the bottom two hit the parking brake bracket. My guess is I/we have to remove the parking brake bracket to get the bolts out??????

To add insult to injury....a 16GB memory card for my camera just formatted (erased) itself of hundreds and hundreds of pictures If I was a drinking man now would be a great time for a cocktail or two.

Good job. Yes you need to drop the brake bracket.