Change 5-round plug-in to 4-flat plug in for trailer

I have three five wire vehicles, One Honda van and two Honda trikes and all are wired with two connectors in the rear. One is a flat four and the other is the old style BunkHouse square type 5 or six wire connector. I have a bunkhouse and a cargo trailer and can pull either with what ever we are driving that day. The only thing I had to do was switch out the amber lenses on the bunkhouse to red ones, so when being pulled by a four wire set up the brakes lights work via the turn signals which used to be amber.
 
most wire harnesses should have a industry standard color and should be really easy to follow. But yes to be on the safe side a volt meter/light will help.
Black to neg/ground-red to positive or each wire being tested. So if you push the brake pedal the meter or light will change state light on or meter 12vdc.
Was hoping the wiring diagram would help her out??

Good Luck!!

You would expect an industry standard but I've experienced everything but. A blue wire may be the left turn on one trailer and a yellow may be left turn on another. I just finished hooking up an isolator on my 2012 GL1800, the 5 wires on it had nothing in common color wise with either my Aluma MCT trailer or the 5 wire ribbon cable I installed. The harness I had on the 2010 Triglide I used to have was the same way, wires from the harness a different color than the trailer and ribbon cable.
 
You would expect an industry standard but I've experienced everything but. A blue wire may be the left turn on one trailer and a yellow may be left turn on another. I just finished hooking up an isolator on my 2012 GL1800, the 5 wires on it had nothing in common color wise with either my Aluma MCT trailer or the 5 wire ribbon cable I installed. The harness I had on the 2010 Triglide I used to have was the same way, wires from the harness a different color than the trailer and ribbon cable.

You know, the real problem starts to show when everyone tries to make the basic lights do all kinds of different jobs. Like separate circuits for brake, turn,& emergency. Floating grounds. When it could be a simple single circuit. Just add in taps to operate. I can't see a sound reason for this kind of design. Other than designing something that only you make a plug & play system to plug in to their system.
Ends up costing everyone along the line ! If you want to do anything with their circuit, you end up buying everything to make it simple again. Along with an isolator. The isolator I can see because of the load.
There is a standard wiring color, & sequence of the wires for wiring trailers, but no laws to make anyone really follow them.

:Trike1:
 
I may be wrong (well, not usually) but it sounds like your trailer is wired for a Japanese system. They use separate wires for Left turn, Right turn, and Breaks. Most American vehicles use a common wire for turn signals and breaks. The converter you can buy converts the 5 wire system to a 4 wire system for the trailer. It can't be done in reverse. Most Japanese cars use Amber turn signals and Red break lights. Most American cars the blinker signal turns on the light bulb when the breaks are not pushed, and turn off the signal when the breaks are applied.

I never was recognized for my communication skills, I hope I got my message across.
 

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