Cam Recomends?

Aug 16, 2012
263
6
Manitoba, Canada
Name
Hank
Ok guys, Im looking for opinoins from expierienced..
I have a 2009 Tri G....
No cat , factory exhaust pipes
It currently has 9000 miles.
It has a HD stage 1 download.
S/E high flow Air cleaner and Joker Machine stainless mufflers.
It surges at idle when cold, then straightens out warmed up...
So, Iv bin told SE254E cams and a HD stage 2 download by the stealer..
I can do the cam change no problemo, but no little about the ECM stuff...
So, Should I buy the Se 245e cams and a TTS Mastertune kit from Kuryakyn?
Or, would SE255 cams or woods # cams be better?
Im looking for less heat, good pulling power,fuel mileage and just overall nice clean smooth running 103 motor...Not into racing or anythin like that, just relaiblity and DE-SMOGGED operation...
Opinions please!!!
 
I would just try the TTS mastertune it makes a big difference..I got mine from Dennis Kirk..The newer version unit is out..
You would need a laptop or some sort of computer to do the V tune.

then later if you want to do a cam etc.
 
I would agree with trikermutha as to first installing a tuner. I have the PCV but I know a lot of members on the forum like the TTS. You didn't mention if you have changed the sprocket. That would help your low end out a lot. Once you have done the tuner and changed the sprocket you may find that works good for you and you can save on doing the cam change.

2011 Merlot and Black TG. Dennis' lift kit and deflectors, HD LED headlight and taillights, airfoil luggage rack with LEDs, lower facia with LEDs, no cat, stage 1 with CVO slipons and PCV.
 
Trikermutha..Thx for your input..I really dont wanna open the engine , but would if needed..What was the TTS part # you got?..is it the new version?
I have the 32 tooth front sprocket and have no problems with it...Most roads here we can travel at 100-120kms per hr, so the bike is running nice at 26-2900 rpm..35+ mpg.
Heat is only an issue during a few days in the summer in town, Id just like to get rid of the surging and popping it does..Hb
 
I changed to the 30 tooth sprocket and made a big difference. Msocko3 recommended
that I use Woods 555, great recommendation. Tuned with Screamin Eagle tuner. Hav'nt gotten the speedometer fixed yet. Other wise I like it.
 
Trikermutha..Thx for your input..I really dont wanna open the engine , but would if needed..What was the TTS part # you got?..is it the new version?
I have the 32 tooth front sprocket and have no problems with it...Most roads here we can travel at 100-120kms per hr, so the bike is running nice at 26-2900 rpm..35+ mpg.
Heat is only an issue during a few days in the summer in town, Id just like to get rid of the surging and popping it does..Hb
here it is its the newest release TTS mastertune. I read all the manuals before starting the tuning..You will need to buy cables ..I got lucky my Screaming eagle cables worked on the mastertune so I didnt need to purchase more cables.
https://www.denniskirk.com/tts-mastertune/single-bike-mastertune-kit.p2001141.prd/2001141.sku

I can tell you it did make a world of difference over the stock tuning..Since you dont have the cat the heat should be normal when you are done tuning.

Make sure you save your stock ECM map before you start just in case you want to go back for some reason.

it is really easy to do..
 
Maybe I can toss my .02 in here...Speaking from experience.. per the OP...

The 255's work better with the 32 tooth front belt pulley and the 254's work better with the 30 tooth. The 254's don't have as much low end grunt as the 255's but the 254's have more torque life and won't peter out after 4000 RPM's as do the 255's. The 30 tooth takes care of the low end grunt with the 254's.

Not opening up the motor is a good idea if you are basically happy with the trike performance but unhappy with the quirkes such as decel popping. This can be repaired by using a tuner. You guys already know I recommend the TTS. If the OP doesn't have a computer that he can use to VTune the calibration then you guys pretty much know I have one here that will be very close as a donor calibration he can have.

Once tuned he can make the decision about the cams. If the cams are installed the OP will need to tune the trike.

It is correct info that the HD flash will pretty much be a waste of time and money.

Hope that helps :wave4:



.
 
I have the 259e cams. Never had the 255 cams. The dealer was going to install the 255 cams but the 259e cams was new out. Have no problem with them. I also have 10:5/1 forged pistons,SE heads( bigger than 110 heads). V&H Power Duals & V&H High Output mufflers.
 
I have the 259e cams. Never had the 255 cams. The dealer was going to install the 255 cams but the 259e cams was new out. Have no problem with them. I also have 10:5/1 forged pistons,SE heads( bigger than 110 heads). V&H Power Duals & V&H High Output mufflers.

Nice....

Without the higher compression and larger heads you probably wouldn't like the 259's
 
Was at the dealers today to check on when its going to get Dynoed again. They said this Friday. Hope it's another good one. Maybe alitte better. I put 104octane booster in before I took it over.
 
Was at the dealers today to check on when its going to get Dynoed again. They said this Friday. Hope it's another good one. Maybe alitte better. I put 104octane booster in before I took it over.

Not trying to be a know-it-all but... your tune should be done with the average type of gas you would normally use.

When you boost your fuel you change your Stoich value of 14.68 which will devalue the Dyno results. In other words, your bike will only run well when the fuel is boosted. This could also change your timing results. When you run your normal fuel it could knock.

May want to tell your Dyno guy that you have booster in the tank. He may want to drain it and refill.
 
Not trying to be a know-it-all but... your tune should be done with the average type of gas you would normally use.

When you boost your fuel you change your Stoich value of 14.68 which will devalue the Dyno results. In other words, your bike will only run well when the fuel is boosted. This could also change your timing results. When you run your normal fuel it could knock.

May want to tell your Dyno guy that you have booster in the tank. He may want to drain it and refill.

:Agree: I've always tuned them or had them tuned with either 91 or 93 octane fuel with no other additives.
 
Don't but am SE255 cams. If you really want a set, you can have mine for 75.00 + shipping. I just had the TW222s installed. This last Saturday, did some VTUNing. and I finnally feel like my Trike conversion is complete. It's a 103, has the 30 tooth, and of course using TTS Mastertune. Stock Heads, true Dual Head pipes with Super Trapp mufflers that came with the conversion kit. If you want to see Dyno Charts, check out the Fuel Motto wed site. To bad I don't have any Dyno runs to share but when I turned the troddler all the way in fourth gear from 1500 RPMs, she zoomed through 5500 in a flash. I tried some 5th gear runs and after a little stmble excelleratted strong but because of how fast I had to go or a vehicale was coming, I wasn't able to complete any of the runs but to be honest it just wasn't charging like in 4th gear but it's also not a Drag Bike!. It'a also a queitier sounding engine. There is also a lot of reading available that shares my expereince so far. I'm impressed! Good Luck with what you decide!!!!
 
I just called the dealer & told them what you & Mike said. Hopefully they will drain the tank before they take it to Dyno. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes. Jim
 
We just installed the stage iv kit on mine and it seems to run much better and I am running the 259e cam. Whats agravating is we did the 30 tooth sprocet at the same time so I dont know how much was gained by the kit or the sprocket.
I would really like to see some dynos from the trike riders so I can see where the smoke is coming from "up my backside "
I just feel I should be turning better numbers than I am. 85hp & 94 torque. Whats everyone else getting?
 
We just installed the stage iv kit on mine and it seems to run much better and I am running the 259e cam. Whats agravating is we did the 30 tooth sprocet at the same time so I dont know how much was gained by the kit or the sprocket.
I would really like to see some dynos from the trike riders so I can see where the smoke is coming from "up my backside "
I just feel I should be turning better numbers than I am. 85hp & 94 torque. Whats everyone else getting?

The 2010 Triglide I had was bone stock except Wood TW555 cams, SE ventilator air cleaner, Fuelmoto Jackpot head pipe and SE 50 state legal mufflers, it made 86hp 96ft/lbs torque STD. My dads 09 bone stock with SE stage 1 ac and 4" SE mufflers went 81hp 97ft/lbs torque STD. That Stage IV kit should be making more than 85/94, someone isn't doing it justice on the tune. I'll bet they just gave it what I call a lick and promises tune, they just half assed set the AFR's and left timing alone. You spent a lot of money and should be reaping the results. Another thought is how well did they do breaking it in on the Dyno? Maybe they should do a leak down on it to make sure the rings didn't get damaged by excessive heat due to a ham handed dyno operator.

A member here jcolson has a Stage IV kit in his 2011 which went more than 100/100 when it was 1st built.
 
I HAVE A '09 T/G WITH 23,856 miles. i suggest you look at the cam shoes for wear before you decide what to do. i c installed S&S 510 gear cam at 11k. the local shop thought that there was a -lot of wear on the shoes. the gear cam eliminates the shoes.
and the 510 is the largest cam you can install before you have head work done.
i'm really satisfied with the performance. wakes the engine up .so to speak. i can't find my old shoes to give you a picture of them.about 1700.00 installed. lbcam about 900.00
i also have revolution performance precision.com tuner on the bike. you send them your ecm & on a fact sheet you tell them what mods you have done & they calibrate the ecm & send it back to you. cost 819.00.00 i if you do more mods you send it back & they reflash the ecm. for a small fee.
 
The guy who is working on my heads for my 124" engine had a prototype cam ground to his specifications for a bolt in cam for a 103" engine for both baggers and trikes who want to do only a cam and no other internal engine work.

The motorcycle was a 2012 FLHX 103"
Prototype cam specs .510 lift 235/231@.053 107 lsa
V/H Power dual Headpipe & V&H 3" Round slipon exhaust
SE ventilator air cleaner

This cam was designed around what the stock heads would flow with stock compression. John calls it his "puppy cam"

What he has told me with his knowledge gained from building monster big block Cadillac engines and his countless hours of flowing heads from all sizes of engines and now doing HD head work.

John's quote > "If you don't match the flow capabilities of your heads with the correct cams. Your results for the power output of your engine, most likely will be dissapointing".

Something else he told me that I though was something worth repeating>>
" While improving the flow of any head Im working on, I also listen to the sound of the air flow through the heads on my flow bench. Its not always what you see on paper for flow numbers on heads but how they sound when the air is flowing through them that can give you the best results"
 
Yes

The motorcycle was a 2012 FLHX 103"
Prototype cam specs .510 lift 235/231@.053 107 lsa
V/H Power dual Headpipe & V&H 3" Round slipon exhaust
SE ventilator air cleaner
 
Its a bike. Expect up to a 10% lower result which would put the results for a trike right @ 100/90 to 95hp. Again this is from a bone stock 103" engine.

Your stage 4 heads and 10.5 comp ( provided its correct ) should net your power around 110 torque/95 to 100hp on your trike. Again I would check the compression on each cylinder and do a leak down test as MSOCKO3 suggested
 
jjtriker, this is jcolson. I'm the one that Msocko3 told you about that has the Stage iv kit in my 2011 trike. My Dyno was 99.5 hp with 108 lbs torq. it would have been more but found out the dealership installed the rings upside down. I would've had more compression then. I have the Dyno sheet to prove it. Jim
 

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