2011h-d trike heat

LOL! When it comes to triglides, I get confused which site I'm on. This site is better for the Triglide in that we don't get the occasional 2-wheeler who interjects a non-value-added-opinion. Hope to hear from you soon. Have fun!

I hear you, on the other hand sometimes its kind of fun breaking out the big stick and getting after the 2 wheelers.
 
I started reading this thread before I had my upgrades done and now that they are completed I have no heat issues. But I regulary check back just for some of the posts, lawdy..lawdy... Merry Christmas all!
 
Boy did I make a blunder. After rereading the post I see the confussion. There was 2 different offers. I should have said a Stage 1 A/C and pipes installed free. The only deal there was free install and storage.
The second offer was the race tuner installed and dynoed for $599.00 - - - not everything for $599.

I was looking at the Screaming Eagle Fatshotz 2 into 2 slipons (or Screaming Eagle Nightstick Diffusion Disc slip ons) and the Screaming Eagle Stage 1 A/C kit. What do you guys think?

Would all the above reduce the heat and does it look like a good deal????
 
Boy did I make a blunder. After rereading the post I see the confussion. There was 2 different offers. I should have said a Stage 1 A/C and pipes installed free. The only deal there was free install and storage.
The second offer was the race tuner installed and dynoed for $599.00 - - - not everything for $599.

I was looking at the Screaming Eagle Fatshotz 2 into 2 slipons (or Screaming Eagle Nightstick Diffusion Disc slip ons) and the Screaming Eagle Stage 1 A/C kit. What do you guys think?

Would all the above reduce the heat and does it look like a good deal????

Make sure your dealer has a Trike dyno, not many dealers willing to dump another $10,000 into the trike add on for the dyno and in some cases their dyno room isn't large enough. For $599 their not going to spend a whole lot of time dialing it in, if the guy tuning is even good enough to get it right. I loose track of who is riding which model year so I'm assuming you own a 2011. One question you could ask the dealers dyno guy is where they locate the tube for the 4 gas analyzer, if the answer is in the right muffler their not going to read good AFR. With the tube just in the right muffler they will not be able to map each cylinder which means one could be leaner than the other. The problem with a catalytic converter equipped bike or trike is they can't get the probe into the head pipe going to each individual cylinder. The only way to get gas samples from each cylinder on a catalytic converter equipped bike or trike is Screamin Eagle makes a tool for drilling the head pipe tube for each cylinder and hooking tubing to it which the analyzer samples from, they then plug the hole with a rivet when done, the rivet can be hidden under a heat shield.

If your dealer can give you a decent tune you will pick up power across the whole operating range and the engine it self will run cooler. If you have a catalytic converter equipped trike you still have that converter which operates in the 700 degree+ range once it lights off right by your right foot.
 
Boy did I make a blunder. After rereading the post I see the confussion. There was 2 different offers. I should have said a Stage 1 A/C and pipes installed free. The only deal there was free install and storage.
The second offer was the race tuner installed and dynoed for $599.00 - - - not everything for $599.

I was looking at the Screaming Eagle Fatshotz 2 into 2 slipons (or Screaming Eagle Nightstick Diffusion Disc slip ons) and the Screaming Eagle Stage 1 A/C kit. What do you guys think?

Would all the above reduce the heat and does it look like a good deal????

For a $350 dealer dyno tune (I use TTS), I got the VEs (airflow thru the engine) calibrated and Air Fuel ratio tweaked. Never touched the timing, which was the reason why I took the trike to a dyno in the first place. Just like M3 said, they probably won't spend a lot of time on it. I recommend finding an independent dyno operator, then having a long discussion with the dyno operator (not a service writer) prior to spending any money.
 
I was told at my dealer that if you get rid of the cat you will reduce the heat by about 200 to 300 degrees. Don't know if that's true, but sounds reasonable.
 
I was told at my dealer that if you get rid of the cat you will reduce the heat by about 200 to 300 degrees. Don't know if that's true, but sounds reasonable.

I could support that assertion from personal experience. Read the sticky A+B=C thread up above. Mr. Wizard actually quantified the results, using some pretty defensible sampling methods.
 

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