Stallion Rear Suspension Problem

[STman]

Was riding yesterday turned corner heard loud pop stopped looked tire rubbing body. jacked trike up ladder bar the bar that goes from rear axel to frame had broken. 2008 stallion anyone know proper part name and where to find it

 

[rocket1lf]

There is none to be had. This was a problem with the early ones that had a heim joint in the front. They would break there. TBMS would never admit that there was a problem, but if one broke they would immediately replace it with the new style ladder bars. Try calling them and see if they'll do something for you. I tried to get them to replace mine, but they said that they would only if it broke. I had a friend of mine that had one break at 70mph and he said that it was like Mr Toads Wild Ride. I purchased the new style ones a long time ago and replaced mine. No I don't have the old ones. You may be able to take them to a welding shop and have them beef them up. I know of a shop that had a customers break and that's what they did. Here's a picture of the old and new style ladder bars.

 

[Papa Zook]

I found more good info and pics on this issue located in an older thread HERE.

 

[STman]

Thank you again for your information. I had a feeling they would be hard to find. I was doing 60mph just before I turned the corner. I can imagine Mr Toads Wild Ride no thanks. I found a shop in Missouri that makes custom ladder bars for hot rods. The guy said if I get pictures and measurements he could probably make me a beefed up set yes I’m going to replace both. Once bitten you know. Thanks again for your prompt response I’m also going to send him your pictures of the new version. Next thing is removing the old ones

 

[STman]

I also saw where someone said they drilled a hole to get the bolt out of the upper mount genius. Drill hole find cap every ones happy

 

[rocket1lf]

I also saw where someone said they drilled a hole to get the bolt out of the upper mount genius. Drill hole find cap every ones happy

Just drill a hole in the rear of the foot well. I drilled mine the same size as a electrical box hole plug. Just put some silicon on it and it snapped in. Looks like it belongs there. Makes it a lot easier than lifting the body to get at the bolt.

 

[rocket1lf]

Here's a picture of the plug. Doesn't look very neat, but I don't mind because my tub is carpeted and it's hidden behind the carpet. Rick

 

[STman]

Retired electrician seen and used many of those plugs. Thanks for idea.

 

[Trikervet60]

When the ladder bar problem surfaced, I think about 2010, I didn't do anything right then. But in 2012 I decided I needed this upgrade. At that time it was pretty easy to get parts from the factory. They sent me a set of the upgraded ladder bars. I did the work myself here in my garage. I'll tell you, I think it was about the hardest automotive work i have ever done. It was September and very hot at that time of year. I did not drill the hole as was indicated above. I removed about 15 bolts I think from the floor area and lifted the body up a few inches to remove the forward bolt. On later Stallions, the bolts were installed from the inboard out which made removal a lot easier. I also had to return the old ladder bars to the factory.

 

[rocket1lf]

When the ladder bar problem surfaced, I think about 2010, I didn't do anything right then. But in 2012 I decided I needed this upgrade. At that time it was pretty easy to get parts from the factory. They sent me a set of the upgraded ladder bars. I did the work myself here in my garage. I'll tell you, I think it was about the hardest automotive work i have ever done. It was September and very hot at that time of year. I did not drill the hole as was indicated above. I removed about 15 bolts I think from the floor area and lifted the body up a few inches to remove the forward bolt. On later Stallions, the bolts were installed from the inboard out which made removal a lot easier. I also had to return the old ladder bars to the factory.

You got really lucky that they sent you the new bars. When I asked them if I could get replacements, Richard told me that the only way that they would do it is if they broke. I said that was crazy because I would have to darn near kill myself before they would fix a known problem. Rick

 

[STman]

Thanks to rocket1lf great advice broken ladder bar fixed. New chrome moly heim joint drilled hole in footwell. on reinstall turned bolt around definitely one of the worst automotive jobs I’ve done. Thanks again

 

[rocket1lf]

Thanks to rocket1lf great advice broken ladder bar fixed. New chrome moly heim joint drilled hole in footwell. on reinstall turned bolt around definitely one of the worst automotive jobs I’ve done. Thanks again

Glad everything worked out for you. Now go ride it... Rick

 

[STman]

Anyone know what brake pads go on front brakes for2008 stallion. Also where I can find a brake rotor for front. I know the pads are off a 2008 ford 500 rear Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[STman]

Sorry one finger typer The rear pads are off a 2008 ford 500 I need the front pads and rotor

 

[Gorilla]

front--TS7487M for a 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0 L rear pads The rotors as far as I know are only available (if they still are) thru TBMS (ie0 MotorTrike im Troope Tx.

Last I heard you had to order thru a motor trike dealer for the parts. Good luck let us know. They use the rear pads from the Toyota for the front of the Stallion. The front Stallion calipers I've been told are custom made when they were building the Stallion.

 

[STman]

Thank you for your information. I have some one to turn the rotors. Without the pads I’m out of luck. I’m fortunate I have a friend who builds air boats and swamp buggies. I saw you wished me luck I’ll need it. My name is guy I live in Naples I have a2008 stallions the 2012 Toyota pads may not work at least it’s a starting point. Thanks again

 

[Gorilla]

Thank you for your information. I have some one to turn the rotors. Without the pads I’m out of luck. I’m fortunate I have a friend who builds air boats and swamp buggies. I saw you wished me luck I’ll need it. My name is guy I live in Naples I have a2008 stallions the 2012 Toyota pads may not work at least it’s a starting point. Thanks again

Yes Those are the correct pads. We owned a 2008 also and I had over 120k miles on it when we sold it. I changed the pads 3 times so I know they are the correct fit.

If you search in the Stallion section there is a few posts about the brakes. They did not change them from day one to the last one built. They all had the same brake system on them.

Just a word of information the calipers on the rear are swap left to right from how they were on the Ford 500. TBMS used the left caliper on the right side and the right on the left.

PM me if you have any questions. I don't know all but I know alot about the Stallion.

 

[rocket1lf]

Yes Those are the correct pads. We owned a 2008 also and I had over 120k miles on it when we sold it. I changed the pads 3 times so I know they are the correct fit.
If you search in the Stallion section there is a few posts about the brakes. They did not change them from day one to the last one built. They all had the same brake system on them.
Just a word of information the calipers on the rear are swap left to right from how they were on the Ford 500. TBMS used the left caliper on the right side and the right on the left.
PM me if you have any questions. I don't know all but I know alot about the Stallion.

Gee Ted, you probably forgot more about the Stallion than any of us will ever know. Rick

 

[STman]

Thank you I agree with Rick you do seem to know a lot

 

[Gorilla]

We were one of the original 50 buyers and we kept it for a long time. Did a lot of talking to Jeff the TBMS owner and Richard his top tech. Plus I some what did an expensive PM on her at 100k miles.

 

[STman]

thanks again for your advice and info on brake pads for my stallion. pads were just what you said they would be. Not to bad to install its nice to have somewhere to go for info. Not too far away from you in Naples

 

[Gorilla]

My Pleasure Your welcome

 

[OhioIII]

I was told by my mechanic that the left trailing arm broke. Is that the same thing as the ladder bar?

 

[Gorilla]

I was told be my mechanic that the left trailing arm broke. Is that the same thing as the ladder bar?

Yes. You might check through MotorTrike to see if they still have any, if not you will have to have the one you have repaired. Big job.

 

[STman]

the ladder bars are not available any more. the heim joints are they are 5/8 inch if you order a pair you get a right and a left hand thread. make sure you get chrome moly much tougher. if you are mechanicaly inclined you can do it. its one of the most difficult jobs i've ever done

 

[N8DC]

If your breaking the heim joints the whole factory design is flawed and is binding . Looks like they beefed up the front of the ladder bar and added the rubber bushings to make it work. Either way at some point the suspension is in a bind. You may want to unhook the shocks/springs and move the rear suspension just to see whats going on. I once built a T bucket with hair pin radius rods and some inboard angular links to the frame and I used regular tie rod ends at the front. I broke one after a month because it was binding. My own flawed design . If id just used a panhard rod id bet they would have never broke.
Dave

 

[STman]

i like your idea about binding i was doing a sharp left turn when mine broke.I know when i drilled the hole for the easy out the steel in that heim joint was so soft i didnt have to center punch.

 

[N8DC]

i like your idea about binding i was doing a sharp left turn when mine broke.I know when i drilled the hole for the easy out the steel in that heim joint was so soft i didnt have to center punch.

Again if its breaking its binding but that doesnt mean it cant be fixed. Keep us posted if you find anything . By the way anyone can make those hair pins . You just need the right guy .

 

[Papa Zook]

If your breaking the heim joints the whole factory design is flawed and is binding . Looks like they beefed up the front of the ladder bar and added the rubber bushings to make it work. Either way at some point the suspension is in a bind. You may want to unhook the shocks/springs and move the rear suspension just to see whats going on. I once built a T bucket with hair pin radius rods and some inboard angular links to the frame and I used regular tie rod ends at the front. I broke one a month because it was binding. My own flawed design . If id just used a panhard rod id bet they would have never broke.
Dave

Motor Trike was well aware of this issue and for some time, used the same ladder bar suspension design on most of its trike line, all of which suffered the same failures. They advised all of their dealers to liberally spray silicone lubricant directly onto the heim joint from time to time to prevent binding. It was not a proper fix but it did free up the binding issue at least temporarily.

I might add that using a PTFE or dry film lubricant like the Dupont Non-Stick Dry Film Teflon Spray is a better solution as it does not promote the attraction of dust and dirt deposits, which can contaminate the ball joint area and promote sticking and wear.

 

[N8DC]

Motor Trike was well aware of this issue and for some time, used the same ladder bar suspension design on most of its trike line, all of which suffered the same failures. They advised all of their dealers to liberally spray silicone lubricant directly onto the heim joint from time to time to prevent binding. It was not a proper fix but it did free up the binding issue at least temporarily.

I might add that using a PTFE or dry film lubricant like the Dupont Non-Stick Dry Film Teflon Spray is a better solution as it does not promote the attraction of dust and dirt deposits, which can contaminate the ball joint area and promote sticking and wear.

You could also change out the rod ends to one with grease fittings in them providing there is room .
Dave