doing the conversion myself, suggestions welcome
- Thread starter pcombe
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #62
Hell this is my day job old son!Looks simply marvelous....but consider keeping your day job!!:Coffee:
- Thread starter
- #63
another snag on shipping my kit.
It seems that champion dosen't stock any swing arm bushings From Harley, and none are available, and are on a national backorder?
My swing arm bushing are 24 yrs, old and i would rather start with new ones than have a future problem.
That makes three weeks they have delayed shipment over bushings and i am begining to loose paitence with champion, And i am a patient man in most respects!
Zook is going to try and locate some for me!
I appriecate your efforts Zook!
GO ZOOK!
Re: And so the conversion begins!
Paul;
First let me say, you are a heck of a lot braver than I am. I paid to have it done, and the installer took about 40 pictures and presented to me when completed. Much too complicated for me.
Second, let me say, that is a good looking bike, even as it is.
Third, Now that you have changed the triple tree out, you will probably be tempted to ride it. BE CAREFUL, it won't handle the same way as it did before. With any luck at all, it will come out something like this: (My 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Voyager IRS kit, raked front end, Corbin upholstery)
Hank
Paul;
First let me say, you are a heck of a lot braver than I am. I paid to have it done, and the installer took about 40 pictures and presented to me when completed. Much too complicated for me.
Second, let me say, that is a good looking bike, even as it is.
Third, Now that you have changed the triple tree out, you will probably be tempted to ride it. BE CAREFUL, it won't handle the same way as it did before. With any luck at all, it will come out something like this: (My 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Voyager IRS kit, raked front end, Corbin upholstery)
Hank
- Thread starter
- #65
Re: And so the conversion begins!
Thats a nice looking sled hank.
I havent even thought of trying to ride my scooter right now.
I am not afraid to tear into a harley as long as i have the shop manual to guide me.
Most things are simpler than they appear, or the book makes it sound?
A heck of allot of MC mechanics are common sense. But involve a lot of effort on dressers like ours.
I'm retired so my time is cheap.
The frustration comes from ordering and waiting on parts,wrong parts, incomplete parts etc.
It seems when they get your bucks they hit first gear and pull in the clutch.
Champion is ticking me off right now!
Thats a nice looking sled hank.
I havent even thought of trying to ride my scooter right now.
I am not afraid to tear into a harley as long as i have the shop manual to guide me.
Most things are simpler than they appear, or the book makes it sound?
A heck of allot of MC mechanics are common sense. But involve a lot of effort on dressers like ours.
I'm retired so my time is cheap.
The frustration comes from ordering and waiting on parts,wrong parts, incomplete parts etc.
It seems when they get your bucks they hit first gear and pull in the clutch.
Champion is ticking me off right now!
- Thread starter
- #66
Originally Posted by FLTR2008TRIKE
When you added the 9.5 raked trees did you replace the stock fork legs with longer tubes?
I hope this helps:
It's a bit long winded but perhaps i can head off other questions?
I bought and installed a set of Hog Halter Inc. (HHI) raked tripple trees from a part dealer i have come to trust at a real good price.
The trees are solid and well made. Allot more solid than stock, and i liked the price compared to other tripple trees i looked at out there.
It was a bit of a job installing it on my 89 tour glide only because there is so much involved in getting to them and putting the bike back together.
They came with 2" fork extensions so my bike sits level.
I like the way the center shaft tightens from the bottom with a 3/8 ratchet so i was able to torqe the preload on the bearings more easily.
There is a set screw to run in on the shaft on the lower tree and keep the shaft from loosening up and the top nut is torqed also for extra security.
The stock lock tabs that hold the circut breakers work on the top nut.
The lower fork tripple trees fork stabilizer pinch clamps are an improvment over Harleys OEM system
Before you reattach the handle bars you should probably add about 6" to the ground wire under the bars. You will thank me for it later.
The forks SCREW into the top tripple tree so there is no chance at miss-alighnment through the trees and no pinch clamps around your upper forks to come loose.
It is screwed in hand tight so no torque needed.( put your pipe wrench away )
The bottom of the shaft is drilled and tapped so you can mount your original front brake manifold.
Hardware is included.
Check out the front air system on your bike. Mine is an old one and i had to convert the anti dive manifold to work and those parts weren't included. That was exasperating but it can be done if you have a drill press.
If you wish to eliminate the anti-dive and still retain air over hydraulics it's much simpler.
Many of the newer bikes don't have air on the front forks and the newer ones that do should be eaiser to hook up with a few parts, hoses etc. from the local hardware store.
to see the installation of the HHI tripple trees google-
pcombe/photobucket.
you can see what the trees look like.
For the shiney stuff nuts out there, they will trip your trigger, giving you something else to shine. You can't see it on my bike.
I am also retired and dissabled due to congestive heart failure so i have time to work on my bike.
I have a feeling it would be pricey to have someone else do the work for you, and being on a fixed income encourages me to do my own work.
Besides i don't really trust anyone to do it and not take short cuts.
With any conversion the result is up to the installer as you already know!
The easiest way to remove and replace the bottom neck bearing race is to put a couple spot welds on the race and it will drop out with a couple light taps.
There is no edge to get ahold of with a punch on that race and grinding it and splitting it with a punch is a daunting task.
Folks have told me if you keep trying with a punch you will eventually get it out, but it can't be proven by me. ( I tried until blue in the face).
Harley makes a tool to drive it out but the welder is so simple and quick.
That is a time proven method i used being a heavy equip. mechanic.
When you seat the new race, start it in the neck and use the rounded end of a trailor ball to seat it.
The conversion aint real easy but it's possible for one with some mechanical ability to do the conversion yourself provided you accept that it will take a might of time.
I always recomend a guy has the motor manual handy for reference.
Take lots of pictures of the wiring to ease putting it all back. Mark your wires unless you have a heck of allot better memory than me!
When you added the 9.5 raked trees did you replace the stock fork legs with longer tubes?
I hope this helps:
It's a bit long winded but perhaps i can head off other questions?
I bought and installed a set of Hog Halter Inc. (HHI) raked tripple trees from a part dealer i have come to trust at a real good price.
The trees are solid and well made. Allot more solid than stock, and i liked the price compared to other tripple trees i looked at out there.
It was a bit of a job installing it on my 89 tour glide only because there is so much involved in getting to them and putting the bike back together.
They came with 2" fork extensions so my bike sits level.
I like the way the center shaft tightens from the bottom with a 3/8 ratchet so i was able to torqe the preload on the bearings more easily.
There is a set screw to run in on the shaft on the lower tree and keep the shaft from loosening up and the top nut is torqed also for extra security.
The stock lock tabs that hold the circut breakers work on the top nut.
The lower fork tripple trees fork stabilizer pinch clamps are an improvment over Harleys OEM system
Before you reattach the handle bars you should probably add about 6" to the ground wire under the bars. You will thank me for it later.
The forks SCREW into the top tripple tree so there is no chance at miss-alighnment through the trees and no pinch clamps around your upper forks to come loose.
It is screwed in hand tight so no torque needed.( put your pipe wrench away )
The bottom of the shaft is drilled and tapped so you can mount your original front brake manifold.
Hardware is included.
Check out the front air system on your bike. Mine is an old one and i had to convert the anti dive manifold to work and those parts weren't included. That was exasperating but it can be done if you have a drill press.
If you wish to eliminate the anti-dive and still retain air over hydraulics it's much simpler.
Many of the newer bikes don't have air on the front forks and the newer ones that do should be eaiser to hook up with a few parts, hoses etc. from the local hardware store.
to see the installation of the HHI tripple trees google-
pcombe/photobucket.
you can see what the trees look like.
For the shiney stuff nuts out there, they will trip your trigger, giving you something else to shine. You can't see it on my bike.
I am also retired and dissabled due to congestive heart failure so i have time to work on my bike.
I have a feeling it would be pricey to have someone else do the work for you, and being on a fixed income encourages me to do my own work.
Besides i don't really trust anyone to do it and not take short cuts.
With any conversion the result is up to the installer as you already know!
The easiest way to remove and replace the bottom neck bearing race is to put a couple spot welds on the race and it will drop out with a couple light taps.
There is no edge to get ahold of with a punch on that race and grinding it and splitting it with a punch is a daunting task.
Folks have told me if you keep trying with a punch you will eventually get it out, but it can't be proven by me. ( I tried until blue in the face).
Harley makes a tool to drive it out but the welder is so simple and quick.
That is a time proven method i used being a heavy equip. mechanic.
When you seat the new race, start it in the neck and use the rounded end of a trailor ball to seat it.
The conversion aint real easy but it's possible for one with some mechanical ability to do the conversion yourself provided you accept that it will take a might of time.
I always recomend a guy has the motor manual handy for reference.
Take lots of pictures of the wiring to ease putting it all back. Mark your wires unless you have a heck of allot better memory than me!
- Thread starter
- #67
ThumbUp Changing the front drive pulley and drive belt.
Please understand that this has nothing to do with changing the pulley and belt on a tike, It has to do with preparing the bike to be triked.
I am dealing with a 24yr. old tour glide.
It’s old and I am old school ok?
I always recommend that you have the motor manual in hand for reference.
I had pictures of this procedure and misplaced them.
Last February I decided to convert to a trike beginning with pulleys and belt, Then the raked triple trees, and finally the rear end as finances and space in the shop would permit.
If you are mechanically inclined and have lots of time I could try to talk you through the process. Understand that unless you have the proper special tools you will have to make tools that would work.
I have a friend who is a mechanic for Harley and was kind enough to lend me his special tools.
The outer primary will have to come off.
You will need a 1-7/8 socket to remove the compensator. It has around 120 ft-lb. of torque on it. (Check manual).
Once it is removed the stator cover can be removed, it is magnetic and may frustrate you but will pull off with no special tools (the stator is behind it so don’t be too rough).
Then you can remove the stator itself after removing compensator gears and chain tensioner. Mark the front of the chain tensioner so you know which way the tensioner faced out to ease re-installation. (The tensioner is tapered)
The drive clutch is going to require a deep, deep socket. You my have to make one.
It has around 100 lbs. of torque. (Check manual) You will need to either make a bar out of 1/4 inch. Stock to set between the clutch and comensator sprockets to prevent the gear from rotating the tire, so you can remove and reinstall it. Make sure the ends are tapered. Look at one before you make it! (You can break teeth off the gear by being careless about that tool design) (Never use the clutch hub lugs to pry on, They will break)
Another way is to make a stair shaped tool out of a thick hard plastic to jam between the primary chain and gear.
Once the gears are loosened and you can get at the primary chain (having gotten the chain tensioner out of the way) you must remove the clutch and compensator gears as a unit, (keep them together that way so that you can put it back together as unit with the primary chain attached). Believe me it’s easier to remove and install them as unit.
Pay attention to the clutch plates and spacers. There are 6 of one and seven of the other and have to go back the same way they came out.
One of them will inherently stick to the hub so count them, and put a tie wrap on them so you don’t confuse how they went in.
Pull the starter jack shaft out of the case (there is a small splined coupler at the end of that shaft that marries it to your starter so watch for it,
remove the inner cover. (They have lock tabs on the bolts.
There are one or two bolts going into cover from the back. And you will probably have to remove the starter bolts.
Once you can get at the belt cut off the old one. You will have to drop
At least one side of the swing arm to work the new belt on if you’re lucky.
If not get jacks under the transmission were the swing arm bolt shaft goes through, so the back of your transmission doesn’t drop down and pull the bolt. (Expect your shocks and exhaust to be in the way) (Never twist the new belt very far or clamp or squeeze the ends together too tight to avoid damaging a new $200.00 belt).
After you get the new belt and pulley, along with its lock plate on you must be careful about making sure the rear drive pulley and front drive pulley are aligned. One way to do that is to measure from the center of the swing arm bolt to a certain spot on your axle. Make sure it's the same on each side. Visually look at the alignment also.
Go back together with silicone on all the inner seals, Blue lock tight on all bolts and red lock tight on the clutch and compensator bolts and nuts. ( check torque values on every thing)
Be sure to use a little silicone on the rubber going through the case for the stator wires to prevent tearing it back apart to fix an oil leak Ok?
Most torque wrenches don’t work in reverse. The compensator is a right hand thread and the clutch is left hand thread,
If you have air or power tools that you can adjust the torque your world become much simpler. Other wise use your jammer tool to tighten.(check torque again)
You may search the internet there are videos that show people in perfect conditions making the job look ( oh- so- simple) just to make you look and feel like an idiot, but you will see a whole lot to take the scary out of the job.
Paul
Please understand that this has nothing to do with changing the pulley and belt on a tike, It has to do with preparing the bike to be triked.
I am dealing with a 24yr. old tour glide.
It’s old and I am old school ok?
I always recommend that you have the motor manual in hand for reference.
I had pictures of this procedure and misplaced them.
Last February I decided to convert to a trike beginning with pulleys and belt, Then the raked triple trees, and finally the rear end as finances and space in the shop would permit.
If you are mechanically inclined and have lots of time I could try to talk you through the process. Understand that unless you have the proper special tools you will have to make tools that would work.
I have a friend who is a mechanic for Harley and was kind enough to lend me his special tools.
The outer primary will have to come off.
You will need a 1-7/8 socket to remove the compensator. It has around 120 ft-lb. of torque on it. (Check manual).
Once it is removed the stator cover can be removed, it is magnetic and may frustrate you but will pull off with no special tools (the stator is behind it so don’t be too rough).
Then you can remove the stator itself after removing compensator gears and chain tensioner. Mark the front of the chain tensioner so you know which way the tensioner faced out to ease re-installation. (The tensioner is tapered)
The drive clutch is going to require a deep, deep socket. You my have to make one.
It has around 100 lbs. of torque. (Check manual) You will need to either make a bar out of 1/4 inch. Stock to set between the clutch and comensator sprockets to prevent the gear from rotating the tire, so you can remove and reinstall it. Make sure the ends are tapered. Look at one before you make it! (You can break teeth off the gear by being careless about that tool design) (Never use the clutch hub lugs to pry on, They will break)
Another way is to make a stair shaped tool out of a thick hard plastic to jam between the primary chain and gear.
Once the gears are loosened and you can get at the primary chain (having gotten the chain tensioner out of the way) you must remove the clutch and compensator gears as a unit, (keep them together that way so that you can put it back together as unit with the primary chain attached). Believe me it’s easier to remove and install them as unit.
Pay attention to the clutch plates and spacers. There are 6 of one and seven of the other and have to go back the same way they came out.
One of them will inherently stick to the hub so count them, and put a tie wrap on them so you don’t confuse how they went in.
Pull the starter jack shaft out of the case (there is a small splined coupler at the end of that shaft that marries it to your starter so watch for it,
remove the inner cover. (They have lock tabs on the bolts.
There are one or two bolts going into cover from the back. And you will probably have to remove the starter bolts.
Once you can get at the belt cut off the old one. You will have to drop
At least one side of the swing arm to work the new belt on if you’re lucky.
If not get jacks under the transmission were the swing arm bolt shaft goes through, so the back of your transmission doesn’t drop down and pull the bolt. (Expect your shocks and exhaust to be in the way) (Never twist the new belt very far or clamp or squeeze the ends together too tight to avoid damaging a new $200.00 belt).
After you get the new belt and pulley, along with its lock plate on you must be careful about making sure the rear drive pulley and front drive pulley are aligned. One way to do that is to measure from the center of the swing arm bolt to a certain spot on your axle. Make sure it's the same on each side. Visually look at the alignment also.
Go back together with silicone on all the inner seals, Blue lock tight on all bolts and red lock tight on the clutch and compensator bolts and nuts. ( check torque values on every thing)
Be sure to use a little silicone on the rubber going through the case for the stator wires to prevent tearing it back apart to fix an oil leak Ok?
Most torque wrenches don’t work in reverse. The compensator is a right hand thread and the clutch is left hand thread,
If you have air or power tools that you can adjust the torque your world become much simpler. Other wise use your jammer tool to tighten.(check torque again)
You may search the internet there are videos that show people in perfect conditions making the job look ( oh- so- simple) just to make you look and feel like an idiot, but you will see a whole lot to take the scary out of the job.
Paul
- Thread starter
- #68
pepperpepperpepperpepperpepperpepperpepper
wwwwhhhhooooeeehhhhh!
Call off the whaaaaaa-mbulance with its emergency dose of doggy downers.
I just got a message from Bill Swift at champion.
The kit ships today!
pardon me while i do my happy dance ok?
As soon as i get info on serial number i will get it to zook to help offset shipping charges,in an effort to keep the corn flakes pasted on the little kids faces!
wwwwhhhhooooeeehhhhh!
Call off the whaaaaaa-mbulance with its emergency dose of doggy downers.
I just got a message from Bill Swift at champion.
The kit ships today!
pardon me while i do my happy dance ok?
As soon as i get info on serial number i will get it to zook to help offset shipping charges,in an effort to keep the corn flakes pasted on the little kids faces!
Don't get too excited there bromance....sumpin could still go wrong!!! Lets see.....they could ship it to the wrong place, or loose it altogether, not to mention dropping it off the liftgate and totally messin it up! Hope all goes well tho
ThumbUp
- Thread starter
- #70
Don't get too excited there bromance....sumpin could still go wrong!!! Lets see.....they could ship it to the wrong place, or loose it altogether, not to mention dropping it off the liftgate and totally messin it up! Hope all goes well tho
AAAWWW, Come on man, My name aint ABA you know? (knock on wood)
Don't get too excited there bromance....sumpin could still go wrong!!! Lets see.....they could ship it to the wrong place, or loose it altogether, not to mention dropping it off the liftgate and totally messin it up! Hope all goes well tho
Let me guess, you're the kid in school who was the one pissin in the other kids corn flakes
.
- Thread starter
- #72
Let me guess, you're the kid in school who was the one pissin in the other kids corn flakes
THATS OUR BOY!
It's hard to keep the cornflakes pasted on little kids faces when he's around, but he keeps the midwest farmer in business!
ABA is a good sort,we just mess with each other allot.
If you have a question though, he will usually provide an answer and his rates are cheap!
Let me guess, you're the kid in school who was the one pissin in the other kids corn flakes
...yes sir...I used to piss in their Captain Crunch and Fruit Loops as well....then I would steal their girlfriend!!!!
...yes sir...I used to piss in their Captain Crunch and Fruit Loops as well....then I would steal their girlfriend!!!!
Now thats funny:laugh:.
- Thread starter
- #75
I GOT STARTED ON THE REAR END CONVERSION YESTERDAY, YOU CAN SEE WHAT I BEEN UP TO BY GOING TO;
pcombe's Library | Photobucket
If nothing else it gives me an alibiy for the days activites
- Thread starter
- #76
ThumbUp
Something in the plus column:
Fed- ex called and said i could pick up my kit anytime after 10:00 a,m. wed.
I decided to pick it up at their dock and save about $80.00. on the drop shipping. The crate weighs 720 lbs.
Even at that the shipping charge was supposed to be $578.00 and It's $430.00, i wonder whats up with that?
I found out that Zook went to bat for me because of late delivery and Bill Smith is using fed-ex instead of old dominion for shipping now, so i Get a break! That just might help me to afford paint?
My Thanks to zook and also to Bill Swift at champion.
Something in the plus column:
Fed- ex called and said i could pick up my kit anytime after 10:00 a,m. wed.
I decided to pick it up at their dock and save about $80.00. on the drop shipping. The crate weighs 720 lbs.
Even at that the shipping charge was supposed to be $578.00 and It's $430.00, i wonder whats up with that?
I found out that Zook went to bat for me because of late delivery and Bill Smith is using fed-ex instead of old dominion for shipping now, so i Get a break! That just might help me to afford paint?
My Thanks to zook and also to Bill Swift at champion.
- Thread starter
- #77
frustration
:Shrug:
Go ahead and make a plan, just don't plan the outcome?
I planned on starting the rear end of my trike today and one of my helpers mother fell and needs to go to the hospital, and the other got a wild hair and left town until tommorrow!
I can't retreive my kit from the shipper myself, sooooo?
I can't help my buddy with his mom, and i can't push voluntary help around.
And since My head is a dangerous neighborhood.
(I try not to go in there by myself)
.
ThumbUp :Trike1:
I think i will take the springer trike belonging to the friend that left town and go blow some cob webs out of my head.
That's usually a temp. fix for the places that are broken in me!
:Shrug:
Go ahead and make a plan, just don't plan the outcome?
I planned on starting the rear end of my trike today and one of my helpers mother fell and needs to go to the hospital, and the other got a wild hair and left town until tommorrow!
I can't retreive my kit from the shipper myself, sooooo?
I can't help my buddy with his mom, and i can't push voluntary help around.
And since My head is a dangerous neighborhood.
(I try not to go in there by myself)
.
ThumbUp :Trike1:
I think i will take the springer trike belonging to the friend that left town and go blow some cob webs out of my head.
That's usually a temp. fix for the places that are broken in me!
- Admin
- #78
...yes sir...I used to piss in their Captain Crunch and Fruit Loops as well....then I would steal their girlfriend!!!!
....oh yeaaa!:gah:I'm takin two of your green boxes for that!
- Thread starter
- #80
I picked up my kit from Fed-ex today and have started assembly.
I have the swing arm installed and am in the proccess of hanging the axle.
I got tired and had to quit for the day.
I will post pictures to photo bucket when i get the chance.
I have the swing arm installed and am in the proccess of hanging the axle.
I got tired and had to quit for the day.
I will post pictures to photo bucket when i get the chance.
Way to go DUDE!!!!
- Thread starter
- #82
Well, i am making gains.
I have the swing arm and axle in place, I wasted part of a day due to champions instruction manual when mounting the shock tower.
At first i thought they sent me the wrong parts as the the tower was not going to mount as the instructions and illistrations said.
I called champion and Bill Smith got me with a tech. guy within a short time.
He took my info and went in search of their installation mechanics.
In the mean time i figured out a way that would mount the tower.
The tech guy called me back within an hour and half with a solution, I'm
glad he came up with the same one i did.
(ThumbUp I have to say champion was right on hand to help me with problems. To my way of thinking they were a class act! They got on it immidiatly. ThumbUp)
The kit is fairly straight forward but the instructions sometimes contradict themselves, and there has been a couple of times when i have completed a step and two steps later it requies me to unbolt what i just did to complete.
I guess that must just be so that i don't forget how i did it?
I try now now to read a few steps ahead of where i'm at to anticipate whats ahead and save some repeats. The truth is any mechanic worth his gravy does that in the first place, so i really shouldn't complain.
I am starting to see the project coming together and wait to see what it becomes?
I have the swing arm and axle in place, I wasted part of a day due to champions instruction manual when mounting the shock tower.
At first i thought they sent me the wrong parts as the the tower was not going to mount as the instructions and illistrations said.
I called champion and Bill Smith got me with a tech. guy within a short time.
He took my info and went in search of their installation mechanics.
In the mean time i figured out a way that would mount the tower.
The tech guy called me back within an hour and half with a solution, I'm
glad he came up with the same one i did.
(ThumbUp I have to say champion was right on hand to help me with problems. To my way of thinking they were a class act! They got on it immidiatly. ThumbUp)
The kit is fairly straight forward but the instructions sometimes contradict themselves, and there has been a couple of times when i have completed a step and two steps later it requies me to unbolt what i just did to complete.
I guess that must just be so that i don't forget how i did it?
I try now now to read a few steps ahead of where i'm at to anticipate whats ahead and save some repeats. The truth is any mechanic worth his gravy does that in the first place, so i really shouldn't complain.
I am starting to see the project coming together and wait to see what it becomes?
pictures
HAPPY MUTHERS DAY PAUL!!!!ThumbUppepper
pepper
- Thread starter
- #85
Call your mother mutha!HAPPY MUTHERS DAY PAUL!!!!ThumbUp
- Thread starter
- #86
pcombe's Library | Photobucket
If go to this site i have pictures of the entire project so far.
If you click on a picture you can then scroll one by one and read explinations or you could do a continuos view.
or simply pick a picture you want a closer view of.
Thanks for your intrest!
- Thread starter
- #87
well i am somewhat amazed at overnight change in your appearance ABA!
There is just something about you that's different.
Did you get contacts or sumpun?
There is just something about you that's different.
Did you get contacts or sumpun?
...yaaa-I brushed my teeth and got a few tats........pepper
- Thread starter
- #89
I have been making slow progress on my trike.
ThumbUp I have the shocks installed and the rear end,drive pulleys etc. aligned.
Dr. appointments and such are getting in the way of my time to work on it.
I am in the process of mounting the exhaust but if i follow the instructions the pipe is going to hit on the body frame. I got it figured out how to modify it to clear. I have to change the mufflers to fit the bike and not the bike to fit the muffler assembly. I don't want to risk cracking the exhaust at the head.
The rubber vibration mounts on the exhaust will work with modification.
:Shrug: The other problem i discovered is that the instructions tell you to move the relays off the outside of the oil tank and relocate them inside the frame but but they don't tell you how? the wiring is not long enough to attach the relays to the side of the batt. box, so i am welding a tab off the bottom of the batt. box to hang down lower to mount the relays on and take the strain off the wiring.
:Shrug: :Crap:
The other thing that threw me, is that they sent a large radiator clamp to wrap around the whole works including batt. and box to hold the battery down, and there is no way to make that system work either.p you blew it on that champion, very unproffessional). You would have to have two of the clamps end to end to cobble up something only an amature or a drunk would put on his bike.
ThumbUp I don't mind welding a couple of 6" bolts onto the side of the batt. box and making a top plate to fit over the bolts and sit on top the battery to hold it down, Because the system they design is down right chicken crap and i would only use something like it for a road emergency, and pray no one ever seen it?
ThumbUp I have the shocks installed and the rear end,drive pulleys etc. aligned.
Dr. appointments and such are getting in the way of my time to work on it.
I am in the process of mounting the exhaust but if i follow the instructions the pipe is going to hit on the body frame. I got it figured out how to modify it to clear. I have to change the mufflers to fit the bike and not the bike to fit the muffler assembly. I don't want to risk cracking the exhaust at the head.
The rubber vibration mounts on the exhaust will work with modification.
:Shrug: The other problem i discovered is that the instructions tell you to move the relays off the outside of the oil tank and relocate them inside the frame but but they don't tell you how? the wiring is not long enough to attach the relays to the side of the batt. box, so i am welding a tab off the bottom of the batt. box to hang down lower to mount the relays on and take the strain off the wiring.
:Shrug: :Crap:
The other thing that threw me, is that they sent a large radiator clamp to wrap around the whole works including batt. and box to hold the battery down, and there is no way to make that system work either.
p you blew it on that champion, very unproffessional). You would have to have two of the clamps end to end to cobble up something only an amature or a drunk would put on his bike.ThumbUp I don't mind welding a couple of 6" bolts onto the side of the batt. box and making a top plate to fit over the bolts and sit on top the battery to hold it down, Because the system they design is down right chicken crap and i would only use something like it for a road emergency, and pray no one ever seen it?
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