Beefed Up My Trike Motor

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Got a 2004 Road King Custom which I put a DFT trike body on. Needed more than the stock motor, in my opinion. So I called Fuel Moto and ordered their 98 kit, had the heads ported, higher flow air cleaner, got the Power Vision with Auto Tune, and did all the work myself. The auto tune required adding two O2 sensors to the exhaust. It all went together pretty easily, except a few "blond" moments caused me to call Fuel Moto 4-5 times to work out the Power Vision setup.

They recommended running it up to 210 degrees a couple times, and cooling it down between (heat sycles), which I did while monitoring the temp on the Power Vision. Start up was exciting, not knowing if I would hear some nasty sounds. I did hear a bunch of clacking for a minute or two, but it eventually went away, and all I heard the various other noises a Harley engine makes that leads you to believe it is about to grenade.

They said to take it easy for 500 miles, so I will start it today for it's first cold ride this afternoon. Plan on changing the oil right after the ride.

So far so good. BTW, I have never done this type engine work before and found it quit interesting and satisfying.

 

[Gorilla]

Good job

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Have taken it out a couple of times for some breakin. Cylinder head temperature running 250-270 degrees, no leaks, no trouble other than some valve tapping noise -- comes and goes. Starts like a champ, even when I forget to use the cylinder decompressor thingies (can't remember the proper name). I haven't pushed it, but can tell there is some extra power in there somewhere.

Also, I installed the Ultracool oil cooler. I haven't seen it come on yet, but know it works (tested it).

By the way, Fuel Moto is top notch. Have called them 5-6 times with questions, and they have been fast and correct with all the answers. Absolutely satisfied to the max. (not being paid or put up to this). I even made an order mistake, and they covered the additional cost and shipping.

 

[trikermutha]

Have taken it out a couple of times for some breakin. Cylinder head temperature running 250-270 degrees, no leaks, no trouble other than some valve tapping noise -- comes and goes. Starts like a champ, even when I forget to use the cylinder decompressor thingies (can't remember the proper name). I haven't pushed it, but can tell there is some extra power in there somewhere.

Also, I installed the Ultracool oil cooler. I haven't seen it come on yet, but know it works (tested it).

By the way, Fuel Moto is top notch. Have called them 5-6 times with questions, and they have been fast and correct with all the answers. Absolutely satisfied to the max. (not being paid or put up to this). I even made an order mistake, and they covered the additional cost and shipping.

just make sure the pushrods are adjusted correctly..I am guessing you used adjustable pushrods on your upgrade??

 

[msocko3]

just make sure the pushrods are adjusted correctly..I am guessing you used adjustable pushrods on your upgrade??

:Agree: Depending on the cam sometimes you might have to seat the lifter a little deeper to quiet it down.

 

[Lakeman]

250/270 degrees the Ultracool should be running. Should come on around 210 and off around 190. I put mine on a manual switch and the thermo switch. So I can run it either way.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

just make sure the pushrods are adjusted correctly..I am guessing you used adjustable pushrods on your upgrade??

Yes, they were adjustable pushrods. I followed the instructions that came with them: take out the slack, then preload 19 flats (3 turns plus one flat), wait for bleeddown, then proceed to next cylinder.

Looking at the disc I got from Fuel Moto, which covers a 107 motor (not 88), they instruct 4 turns and one flat. I might have to call them and see if they need another turn.

 

[msocko3]

Yes, they were adjustable pushrods. I followed the instructions that came with them: take out the slack, then preload 19 flats (3 turns plus one flat), wait for bleeddown, then proceed to next cylinder.

Looking at the disc I got from Fuel Moto, which covers a 107 motor (not 88), they instruct 4 turns and one flat. I might have to call them and see if they need another turn.

Which cams and lifters did you go with?

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Which cams and lifters did you go with?

Woods TW555 cams and Woods lifters.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Well, well. Found a piece of paper in the Woods box that called for about 24 flats, or 4 turns. It was even highlighted. No wonder the noise. Already readjusted the pushrods. Now I'm paranoid that I might have done something else wrong --- .

Started the engine and it is much quieter now.

 

[trikermutha]

How long did you run it with the noise..How much was it off..If not much most likley nothing is wrong..One time one of mine loosened up and drove a short distance home and readjust and no problems after that..

Glad you got it figured out!!

Have fun and ride..

 

[Sloufoot]

250/270 degrees the Ultracool should be running. Should come on around 210 and off around 190. I put mine on a manual switch and the thermo switch. So I can run it either way.

Ultra cool uses OIL TEMP to turn off & on. Not head temp.:Trike1:

 

[msocko3]

Well, well. Found a piece of paper in the Woods box that called for about 24 flats, or 4 turns. It was even highlighted. No wonder the noise. Already readjusted the pushrods. Now I'm paranoid that I might have done something else wrong --- .

Started the engine and it is much quieter now.

Woods cams can at times be noisy, some of the less aggressive cams will quiet down some when the lifter plunger is run a little deeper in the body which you just did by adjusting it more flats. Another characteristic of the Woods directional lifters is they sometimes take a little bit to pump up after sitting for awhile, if you get a little ticking upon the 1st start up of the day which goes away this is just the lifter pumping up.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

How long did you run it with the noise..How much was it off..If not much most likley nothing is wrong..One time one of mine loosened up and drove a short distance home and readjust and no problems after that..

Glad you got it figured out!!

Have fun and ride..

I ran it about 1 hour. It was off one turn, which I think is .031 in., according to the spec sheet I found.

 

[trikermutha]

I ran it about 1 hour. It was off one turn, which I think is .031 in., according to the spec sheet I found.

you should be fine

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

Dang. Just took it for a 20 mile ride and it started out quiet, then the clacking started and got worse. It sounds just like a tappet, is loud, and is definitely coming from the front cylinder, probably the top part. When I put it back together, maybe I didn't tighten the rocker arm bolts, who knows.

Off comes the tank and other stuff. At least it isn't the rear cylinder.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

Dang. Just took it for a 20 mile ride and it started out quiet, then the clacking started and got worse. It sounds just like a tappet, is loud, and is definitely coming from the front cylinder, probably the top part. When I put it back together, maybe I didn't tighten the rocker arm bolts, who knows.

Off comes the tank and other stuff. At least it isn't the rear cylinder.

Just checked the front pushrods at TDC. They can be rotated and are not loose. Rotation takes two fingers to rotate and there is no up and down movement at all.

 

[trikermutha]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

The pushrods should be adjusted on the low spot on the cam. The pushrod will rotate once the lift bleeds down..

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

The pushrods should be adjusted on the low spot on the cam. The pushrod will rotate once the lift bleeds down..

What I did is rotate the engine with the wheel in 5th gear until the front intake lifter drops to the bottom, then rotate it with a straw in the sparkplug hole until that piston is at TDC. Air rushes out the hole while the piston advances. I followed the manual for determining base circle, and I hope this is correct.

 

[msocko3]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

Just checked the front pushrods at TDC. They can be rotated and are not loose. Rotation takes two fingers to rotate and there is no up and down movement at all.

Kind of a redneck way of doing it but, you could turn it over until your on the heal of the cam and then use something along the lines of a paper clip to measure how deep your lifter is compressed. You'll need some way of measuring the paper clip once you mark it, dial calipers will work good. You can safely go .140 in the hole with the Woods directional lifters, if you know your not that deep you could try lengthening each push rod 1 flat at a time and seeing if it helps quiet it down some.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

Kind of a redneck way of doing it but, you could turn it over until your on the heal of the cam and then use something along the lines of a paper clip to measure how deep your lifter is compressed. You'll need some way of measuring the paper clip once you mark it, dial calipers will work good. You can safely go .140 in the hole with the Woods directional lifters, if you know your not that deep you could try lengthening each push rod 1 flat at a time and seeing if it helps quiet it down some.

You know what's funny, is the video disk for Fuel Moto says to rotate the SAME pushrods in a 107 engine, 4 turns and 2 flats. Now, if the 107 engine is the same setup as my 88, then I guess I could try that amount. Probably should call Fuel Moto tomorrow to see what they think.

The back cylinder sounds fine, so I could leave those adjustments alone.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

After scearching the net, I have come across the possibility that one of the lifters is bad. Could that be my problem? When I adjust them, I know they are holding pressure or spring or something, because they all behave the same when adjusting for the flats -- it takes the same force to turn the nuts.

 

[Sloufoot]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

After scearching the net, I have come across the possibility that one of the lifters is bad. Could that be my problem? When I adjust them, I know they are holding pressure or spring or something, because they all behave the same when adjusting for the flats -- it takes the same force to turn the nuts.

Without engine oil pressure, you are only pushing against a weak spring inside the lifter. You can't get to the lifter fast enough to catch them with oil pressure after you shut the engine down.:Trike1:

 

[SEAlaskan]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

After scearching the net, I have come across the possibility that one of the lifters is bad. Could that be my problem? When I adjust them, I know they are holding pressure or spring or something, because they all behave the same when adjusting for the flats -- it takes the same force to turn the nuts.

I had the same symptom only on the rear cylinder, sounded like a lifter not pumping up or push rod out of adjustment. I remember adjusting the push rods and noticing the intake push rod cover wobbling a little as I was adjusting for 0 slack and thinking I might have a bad push rod, it was just me. After running it for a while I decide to take another look at the push rods and found that I had 5 full turns and 2 flats on the rear intake push rod adjustment "senior moment" forgot how many turn I had done, the rest had the 4 full turns and 2 flats, I decided to change the adjustments on all four pushrods to 4 full turn 0 flats and add more later is need, so far the engine is running just fine now, I'm also using HQ's Black OPs lifters. Now all I need to do is learn how to lean out fuel adjustments to get some of gas mileage back. FUEL MOTO has it running a little rich.
Butch

 

[msocko3]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

You know what's funny, is the video disk for Fuel Moto says to rotate the SAME pushrods in a 107 engine, 4 turns and 2 flats. Now, if the 107 engine is the same setup as my 88, then I guess I could try that amount. Probably should call Fuel Moto tomorrow to see what they think.

The back cylinder sounds fine, so I could leave those adjustments alone.

The 107 is plenty close enough to your 88 to use the same adjustment procedure.

 

[msocko3]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

After scearching the net, I have come across the possibility that one of the lifters is bad. Could that be my problem? When I adjust them, I know they are holding pressure or spring or something, because they all behave the same when adjusting for the flats -- it takes the same force to turn the nuts.

Anything is possible, I haven't bumped into anyone having a bad Woods Directional lifter yet. What cam did they send you in your kit?

 

[icebite1]

Re: Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 2

Butch, ill try to figure out if I can send you the map I have been using on wifes 107". Ive got cruising AFR at 14.2, seems pretty good but I ran out of good weather to keep tweeking it.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

*Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 3

Well, I am an idiot. Very stupid.

I noticed an oil leak coming from the front rocker cover, so I proceeded to take off the cover and look inside.

I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE ROCKER ARMS BOLTS AND THE BREATHER BOLTS!!! They were up in the air floating against the rocker cover, putting some real nice gouges in it. Some black smudgy residue around from all the grinding. I can only imagine what else was going on inside the engine (oil pump, cylinders, nerves). SO, I took it down to the head, and rebuilt it upwards, cleaning everything out real good. Used locktight and torqued them right. Also, took off the rear rocker cover to see if history repeats itself, and NO, it didn't.

This is what is known as a senior moment --- seems like I am having more and more of them and the norm is occasionally having a "normal moment."

I started it up and it sounds like a Harley now, without the nasty clanking sound.

Sigh... (at least I'm brave enough to admit what I did -- not sure that is anything to brag about.)

 

[SEAlaskan]

Re: *Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 3

Well, I am an idiot. Very stupid.

I noticed an oil leak coming from the front rocker cover, so I proceeded to take off the cover and look inside.

I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE ROCKER ARMS BOLTS AND THE BREATHER BOLTS!!! They were up in the air floating against the rocker cover, putting some real nice gouges in it. Some black smudgy residue around from all the grinding. I can only imagine what else was going on inside the engine (oil pump, cylinders, nerves). SO, I took it down to the head, and rebuilt it upwards, cleaning everything out real good. Used locktight and torqued them right. Also, took off the rear rocker cover to see if history repeats itself, and NO, it didn't.

This is what is known as a senior moment --- seems like I am having more and more of them and the norm is occasionally having a "normal moment."

I started it up and it sounds like a Harley now, without the nasty clanking sound.

Sigh... (at least I'm brave enough to admit what I did -- not sure that is anything to brag about.)

Don't feel bad, I've been doing that a lot my self, especially if I have company around when I'm working on something then I get distracted and forget my count or where I felt off on what I was working on :AGGHH: It happens to the best of them.
Butch

 

[Trent]

Re: *Beefed Up My Trike Motor, Part 3

Smitty...You have my total respect for gettin' on here and exposing what the real issue was. You could have made something up... instead you chose to give some of us a good chuckle. Don't worry.. your little goof pales in comparison to some of the stupid things I have accomplished!!!...And I say good for you even attempting to do what you did to your motor. Would have been the shop for me.