What about a load controller? Isn't a load controller needed for the turn signal functionality when going to LED? Maybe these new lights have that built into them.
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Hey TNT.. Talked to the parts guy at my dealer. He was scratching his head about why they would be charging more when they are the identical light. Hmmm.. he thinks they hype up the built specially for TGlide line so they can charge more$... He said wiring is the same, look exactly the same, is confused. Either way,, glad you got 'em ordered and you will like 'em!!!
What about a load controller? Isn't a load controller needed for the turn signal functionality when going to LED? Maybe these new lights have that built into them.
Mine do not have the lic plate illumination... And did not need the load equalizers according to my dealer, which is why he is confused about the difference. Oh well!!! As long as they work and we are all happy, then so I am I!!!
I had a Bright Ass tailight on my 07 ultra and now 2 on the 2011 Triglide. One was great, but 2 really light up the rear end. I put 3 flashes and then full stop (you can change the flash pattern with a magnet) It catches lots of attention and probably the best money I've spent for rear visibility. $200 list for each. I have also bought the HD LED rear tour pak light and have sent the frame off for chroming. They should compliment each other.
I have a 2010 Tri-Glide and had the Gainesiville Dealer remove the stock tail lights and replaced them with "Bright Ass Tail Lights". They are advertised to say they can be seen a mile away in bright sunlight. They are expensive, but a great safety issue.
Jerry Hobbit
Viet Nam Vet 67-68 Army 44th Medical
The Bright ass Lights I put on my Tri Glide needed the load equalizer..It made the turn signals go crazy fast..Some Tri Glides need the others will not from what I hear..Just got off the phone with Bright Ass Lights and the gentleman I spoke with said the only need for a load equalizer is to slow down the flash on the front turn signals. Depending on the flash combination of the BAL, the fronts could flash faster. If you want the fronts to flash as oem then may need a equalizer. Also with the tour pak lights taking extra amps, will not need the equalizer. Only will need if the fronts flash too fast for your liking...
yea when I spoke to the Bright ass light people they guarateed there lights a long time maybe even after the 5 years..I thought that was a plus..Once you get them they have several light pattens to program to your liking..One time I seen at night someone behind me put down there sun visor as it was nice and bright while I had my brakes on..My dealer said those lights also carry a 5? yr warrenty. That's a good thing. One dealer also mentioned the same thing about, the HD light just mentioned, some people needing to install a load equalizer. That was one reason for the upgrade for the trikes. As Trent said, if you are happy with what you have, that's all that matters.
Once I converted to the LED lights and a trailer converter and added all linds of LED lights the load equalzer was a must..No problems useing these items at all..Plus I am not sure but I thought I read a article about the secuirty system acts up without the load equalizer..I think it's important to note that Harley Trikes have a significant difference in the way the rear lights are wired up versus a regular 2-wheel Harley. Our trikes make use of a special tail and turn signal converter module that integrates the rear turn signal and brake lamp circuits. On 2-wheel bikes, the rear turn signals are a completely independent circuit.
Also, the rear tour pak lights are not part of this additional circuitry and have no bearing on nor do they function as turn signals. The tour pak lamps are fed by an independent harness that is tapped off of the main harness "upstream" or prior to the tail and turn signal converter module.
What is unknown to me is whether the tail and turn signal converter module controls the flashing rate of the turn signals regardless of bulb amperage (load) or if the flashing of the turn signals is still dependent on the load of both the front and rear incandescent bulbs.
I would love to convert my tail lamps to LED but I don't like the idea of having to add additional inline modules in order to get them to flash properly. I guess maybe I'm being too anal about this, but I like to be absolutely sure of what I'm buying and that it will work properly before I shell out a couple of hundred dollars or more for lights.