Transmission Problem??

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

man is that easy pull clutch causing the clutch end to rub on the bearing nut??
picks are hard to totaly see some of the wear items.. but something is wearing on the clutch cable end..

Yes, the coupling on the end of the clutch cable is causing the wear on the bearing nut (See 2 pictures below). On the first one you can see where the fella that installed the reverse gear had a problem getting it to all fit together, so he ground off a part of the bearing boss (upper left part of the boss), which allowed him clearance for the coupling so that he could bolt up the clutch release cover. The center top cutout is for access for a feeler gage. The second picture is a better shot of the coupling wear. The second picture also shows that the bottom of the coupling is much flatter and protudes 1/8" less toward the "wear problem" than the opposite side, if you simply turn it over. Better yet, get rid of the Burley White Brothers Lite Clutch, as they call it.

I am thinking I will turn over the coupling, bolt everything up, run it a short time, then take the whole thing apart again to see if the coupling is dragging again. If it is, I'll go back to stock.

 

[msocko3]

Yes, the coupling on the end of the clutch cable is causing the wear on the bearing nut (See 2 pictures below). On the first one you can see where the fella that installed the reverse gear had a problem getting it to all fit together, so he ground off a part of the bearing boss (upper left part of the boss), which allowed him clearance for the coupling so that he could bolt up the clutch release cover. The center top cutout is for access for a feeler gage. The second picture is a better shot of the coupling wear. The second picture also shows that the bottom of the coupling is much flatter and protudes 1/8" less toward the "wear problem" than the opposite side, if you simply turn it over. Better yet, get rid of the Burley White Brothers Lite Clutch, as they call it.

I am thinking I will turn over the coupling, bolt everything up, run it a short time, then take the whole thing apart again to see if the coupling is dragging again. If it is, I'll go back to stock.

You could get HD PN 25605-00A outer ramp and PN 25604-00A inner ramp, these are the ramps they use as part of the reduced effort clutch kit HD started installing in 2006. I wouldn't waste the $$ on the kit because the diaphragm spring which comes with the kit is to light IMO, and makes a piss poor Frisbee. If you want to take it a step farther you could get either the 480 lb AIM or SE diaphragm spring and top it with a Clutch Wiz.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

I ordered one of those "bionic" magnetic drain plugs. Should help me clean out the transmission real nice just before it fails! At least it will be a good investment for the new Baker 6 speed, haha.

 

[Sloufoot]

... and it stinks more so than any other tranny oil I've ever used. Sitting at a light on a hot day the tranny vent odor will make you think you have an oil leak somewhere for sure.

Seems to me that Redline Shockproof is more sticky than gear oil. Leave a little in your funnel and see how long it stays there.

Are you guys using the heavy or the light Redline ?

 

[Sloufoot]

Now if they would just come out with a magnetic plug that would catch the aluminum !

 

[msocko3]

Are you guys using the heavy or the light Redline ?

Heavy.

 

[trikermutha]

Yes, the coupling on the end of the clutch cable is causing the wear on the bearing nut (See 2 pictures below). On the first one you can see where the fella that installed the reverse gear had a problem getting it to all fit together, so he ground off a part of the bearing boss (upper left part of the boss), which allowed him clearance for the coupling so that he could bolt up the clutch release cover. The center top cutout is for access for a feeler gage. The second picture is a better shot of the coupling wear. The second picture also shows that the bottom of the coupling is much flatter and protudes 1/8" less toward the "wear problem" than the opposite side, if you simply turn it over. Better yet, get rid of the Burley White Brothers Lite Clutch, as they call it.

I am thinking I will turn over the coupling, bolt everything up, run it a short time, then take the whole thing apart again to see if the coupling is dragging again. If it is, I'll go back to stock.

wow..Yea I would remove that easy clutch device and go with what Mike stated..I love the Champion Reverse gears but when stuff like that happens its expensive.

I would flush with Brake Cleaner or anything else you can think of...

Good Luck

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

wow..Yea I would remove that easy clutch device and go with what Mike stated..I love the Champion Reverse gears but when stuff like that happens its expensive.

I would flush with Brake Cleaner or anything else you can think of...

Good Luck

I used half a can of brake cleaner on the bearings, and it appeared to run right through and out the drain hole. Is Mike the same as msocko?

 

[trikermutha]

I used half a can of brake cleaner on the bearings, and it appeared to run right through and out the drain hole. Is Mike the same as msocko?

Is Mike the same as msocko....YES ....

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Is Mike the same as msocko?

They are a father and daughter combo... :qpnmt:



(boy, am I in trouble now)

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

(boy, am I in trouble now)

:laugh:

 

[msocko3]

They are a father and daughter combo... :qpnmt:



(boy, am I in trouble now)

Nice guy, the abuse I have to take:Trike1:.

 

[Smitty Werben Manjensen]

Just to put a period on this, I got the nut, installed it according to the complicated instructions on the Champion site, checked the cable coupling clearance to the nut (about 1/8"--looks fine), filled the transmission with diesel, drove it around the block, drained, and did this 3 times. Each time, it reduced the amount of metal and silver in the drain pan to about 50% of the previous, to where it is hard to notice unless you knew what was happening.

At the end, I looked at the nut surface through the trans fill hole, and it is sparkling and new -- no damage. After the above procedure, I received the bionic drain plug/magnet, and sure enough, it has some real power to it. Installed it, filled the trans with some older, non-bionic oil, and will run this for a few dozen miles, and put in the Shockproff stuff, depending on the cleanliness of the previous oil change.

I really believe the guy that previously installed the Champion reverse gear didn't do it right, and didn't follow the complicated spacer and feeler gage procedure, because he didn't put in two more spacers as required. That could have been part of the problem, because when I removed the old nut (should have been 60ftlb torque), it came off with little more than a light tap (my guess -- 5ftlbs). I was really surprised.

I do have an exhaust leak now, but that will be easy enough to fix with the old fashioned pressed wire gaskets, and toss the solid copper ones I just bought.

Thanks for all your suggestions and help.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

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[msocko3]

Good to see you back on the road.