Steering head bearing tightening, and possible pulling my leg

[cjmitch]

Welllllll

Got the steering stem socket, and made a cardinal error...

I let the wheel drop while the stem nut was off...

Yes the stem dropped. I had to hold it up while my daughter found the threads....

No biggie....

Second goof, I did not route the throttle cables UNDER the steering head... Now I have to take it ALL apart again... DOH!!!!!!

Live and learn.

Oh yes I discoverer that that little clip that holds the throttle cables to the head, was snapped, so I ordered another one... a whopping 3 bucks.

All in all not a bad bit of work

 

[Papa Zook]

Welllllll

Got the steering stem socket, and made a cardinal error...

I let the wheel drop while the stem nut was off...

Yes the stem dropped. I had to hold it up while my daughter found the threads....

No biggie....

Second goof, I did not route the throttle cables UNDER the steering head... Now I have to take it ALL apart again... DOH!!!!!!

Live and learn.

Oh yes I discoverer that that little clip that holds the throttle cables to the head, was snapped, so I ordered another one... a whopping 3 bucks.

All in all not a bad bit of work

Pro Tip: If you are talking about the top, thin metal spring clip that holds the left and right side cables and hoses in place, I take a pair of tin snips and cut that clip in half so that you only have to hold one set of cables and hoses down at a time. It is held in place with two screws and works just as well in two halves since it is merely securing the cables in place and isn't supporting anything. It makes it much easier to get the cables and hoses back in place and doesn't require 4 sets of hands.

 

[cjmitch]

Pro Tip: If you are talking about the top, thin metal spring clip that holds the left and right side cables and hoses in place, I take a pair of tin snips and cut that clip in half so that you only have to hold one set of cables and hoses down at a time. It is held in place with two screws and works just as well in two halves since it is merely securing the cables in place and isn't supporting anything. It makes it much easier to get the cables and hoses back in place and doesn't require 4 sets of hands.

Good idea...
But no...Im referring to the small little clip that is attached to the clamp screw of the right hand fork tube.


Ok not the turn signal cancel does not work.
1) yes it is connected
2) YES the clip on the bottom of the stem IS attached to the actuator / De-actutator

IS there another plug/connector below (down deep in the neck tube)??

 

[Papa Zook]

Good idea...
But no...Im referring to the small little clip that is attached to the clamp screw of the right hand fork tube.


Ok not the turn signal cancel does not work.
1) yes it is connected
2) YES the clip on the bottom of the stem IS attached to the actuator / De-actutator

IS there another plug/connector below (down deep in the neck tube)??

Is should be one of two things...1) The small green connector plug at the top of the steering stem is not fully snapped in place, loose connection 2) The metal actuator needs re-checking to make sure it is engaging as it turns.

There is no other plug deep in the neck. The wire that runs from the actuator switch/stem goes straight up through the steering stem center to the small green plastic connector plug.

Claude, the most likely scenario is that the connector at the top of the steering stem where the wire connects to the green plug is not fully connected. There is a round rubber cover that holds it in place. Check that first. There is a tiny plastic snap tab on the green plug that is easily broken that holds the male and female plugs together. If that tab is broken it sometimes comes apart. If you find it is broken, put a small dab of clear silicone glue on it and it should stay together.

 

[cjmitch]

Is should be one of two things...1) The small green connector plug at the top of the steering stem is not fully snapped in place, loose connection 2) The metal actuator needs re-checking to make sure it is engaging as it turns.

There is no other plug deep in the neck. The wire that runs from the actuator switch/stem goes straight up through the steering stem center to the small green plastic connector plug.

Claude, the most likely scenario is that the connector at the top of the steering stem where the wire connects to the green plug is not fully connected. There is a round rubber cover that holds it in place. Check that first. There is a tiny plastic snap tab on the green plug that is easily broken that holds the male and female plugs together. If that tab is broken it sometimes comes apart. If you find it is broken, put a small dab of clear silicone glue on it and it should stay together.

Yes I had to break the tab to get it apart to tighten the head
It went back together ok but i did not use the silicone glue.
I put dielectric grease on it so that it would come apart easier

Is there a way of testing the auto-signal cancel without putting the bike back together and driving it??

 

[Papa Zook]

Yes I had to break the tab to get it apart to tighten the head
It went back together ok but i did not use the silicone glue.
I put dielectric grease on it so that it would come apart easier

Is there a way of testing the auto-signal cancel without putting the bike back together and driving it??

I dont remember if the bike has to be moving or not for the signal cancel to operate so I cant say for sure. You could recheck all I have mentioned above and try it parked with the covers off. Just crank it with your wheel straight, turn on the turn signal, then rotate your handlebars full right, then left and see if it turns them off. If it does, you're good to go, if not just tuck the instrument cluster back in place and leave it unbuttoned and take a short ride to check it before re-installing all the tupperware.

 

[Gold Rush]

Movement is required. I just went out and let my turn signal flash over a minute. Even ran the steering head lock to lock several times.

Claude I wouldn't worry about that connector catch. My '06 was broken for several years and never came apart. As long as you pushed it together fully I'm betting you will be OK...... Like Zook said. Get things where you can roll down the street safely then give it an ops check. Feel pretty sure you will be good to go... :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[FRR]

Yes.

Torquing the steering stem involves nothing to do with rebuilding the forks or replacing the front wheel bearings. Nothing comes apart, the plastic cover is removed, the top retainer nut and star washer is removed, then the main nut is torqued, then the star washer and retainer nut is replaced. It's a fairly quick and easy job if you know what you're doing. The other stuff is purely optional, as needed job.

Absolutely correct. I've known lots of guys that torqued the steering stem and it had nothing to do with replacing wheel bearings. Some of the 1500 were known for getting " wobbly" and needed to have this done periodically.

 

[cjmitch]

SUCCESS!!!!!

Opened it back up and checked the connector, it seemed like it could be pushed in a little more so I did.
It looks like that connector get narrower at the end of the run near the pins

Everything worked!!!!!

NOW...
On to the front brakes, lubing the handlebar switches, and the non functioning fog light switch & Hazard switches.

And getting my front tire turned around

- - - Updated - - -

Pro Tip: If you are talking about the top, thin metal spring clip that holds the left and right side cables and hoses in place, I take a pair of tin snips and cut that clip in half so that you only have to hold one set of cables and hoses down at a time. It is held in place with two screws and works just as well in two halves since it is merely securing the cables in place and isn't supporting anything. It makes it much easier to get the cables and hoses back in place and doesn't require 4 sets of hands.

Didn't cut it.
Instead I just put the screws in about 3 turns.
That left plenty of room to maneuver the cables in to their correct slots

 

[Gold Rush]

SUCCESS!!!!!

Opened it back up and checked the connector, it seemed like it could be pushed in a little more so I did.

It looks like that connector get narrower at the end of the run near the pins

Everything worked!!!!!

NOW...

On to the front brakes, lubing the handlebar switches, and the non functioning fog light switch & Hazard switches.

Claude once you get the little bugger out, that Hazard switch is pretty easy to just clean out and relube I use a dab of dialectric grease on the contacts and also the switch catch assembly. There is a spring in there a bit smaller then a ball point pen spring so be VERY CAREFUL taking it apart.

The fog/running light switch is another story. Many of them over heat due to too much current being pulled through the contacts. That distorts the heck out of things and the switch must be replaced. I think somewhere along the line Honda changed that and it is now routed through a relay but the early models did in fact distort... My '01 did.... Replacement switch is in the $32 $38 cost depending on where you get it.. They are year group specific so watch the part numbers..

 

[cjmitch]

Claude once you get the little bugger out, that Hazard switch is pretty easy to just clean out and relube I use a dab of dialectric grease on the contacts and also the switch catch assembly. There is a spring in there a bit smaller then a ball point pen spring so be VERY CAREFUL taking it apart.

The fog/running light switch is another story. Many of them over heat due to too much current being pulled through the contacts. That distorts the heck out of things and the switch must be replaced. I think somewhere along the line Honda changed that and it is now routed through a relay but the early models did in fact distort... My '01 did.... Replacement switch is in the $32 $38 cost depending on where you get it.. They are year group specific so watch the part numbers..

I got a fog light switch to put in, so Im just going to replace it then refurb the old on in my own good time.

Ive had LED driving lights from Electrical connections and the current draw is minimal
http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_27_74&product_id=126

 

[Gold Rush]

I got a fog light switch to put in, so Im just going to replace it then refurb the old on in my own good time.

Ive had LED driving lights from Electrical connections and the current draw is minimal
http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_27_74&product_id=126

YUP, LED lights are soooo much better!! That is what I put in my 2015 when I got it. No danger of ever overloading this switch. The first time you take one of these switches apart is a little scary but when you now what to expect they aren't so bad. :xszpv::xszpv: