Ok here goes, My first trike build

Ok after some thought I added a couple of more bars and a steel plate to the frame rails on the bike, It maybe over kill but I want it to be safe. also some pics.
 
I have a couple of questions, 1. I want to replace the front tire with something better but not sure what. tire size is 100/90/19. 2nd is how much rake do I need in the front end. The bike wheel base was 60.5 now it 67.5 and rear axle width is 50 inches without tires and rims, I am putting some nice 16 inch alum rims on it and either a 225/60/16 or a 235/60/16 tire on. I forgot to add that I lowered the height of the rear of the bike 2 1/2 inches to help with the rake.
 
Sorry to ask Im not sure if you said but what kind of axle are you using for this build and how did you get it to line up with the shaft so straight. Im thinkin of building my first trike with either a 81 yamaha xj750 shaft drive or i have a kawasaki vulcan shaft drive sittin around. Any input would be great. So far I am lovin the build. Would like to see a pic of the whole thing. Keep chopin and buildin!
 
its a 71 plymouth cricket, its a small rearend like the the ford mustang 8 inch rear. Ok on the drive shaft, the bikes original shaft was angled lower due to the height of the bike becuase of the shocks being hooked to the top of the frame and to the swingarm. I used 2 1/2 inch shorter shocks. so the drive shaft is almost level, the rear end is angled down 3 degress. to improve traction and oil to the pinion bearing. If there is anything else yopu need to know just ask. Dennis
 
Also forgot to mention if the drive shaft is on your left side of the bike you will have to flip the rearend becuase the bikes rotation is backwards of a normal car rear. if your drive shaft is on the right side of the bike check rotation just to be sure, the rear should stay like it was mounted in the vehicle. most cars have a clockwise rotation and my xs1100 has a counter clockwise rotation. Hope this helps out.
 
Just picked up a wilwood brake master cylinder and a inline residual valve and a stainless steel braided line for the rear brake setup for my trike. also figured out how to mount the emergency brake handle as well. I will take pics of before and after when I start on it tomorrow again.
 
this has been a good day, got all the welding done, new tabs put on, installed the wilwood master cylinder with steel braided line and a residual valve, now got to go and pick up some brake fluid. Next I welded a tab on the frame and drilled and tapped the alum brace. to bolt the emergincy brake handle on, then hooked the cable up as well. then I put my carbs back together after they soaked for 48 hours in original pinesol and some cleaning for the tough spots with carb cleaner. I am very suprized that the pinesol worked as good as it did. took some pics, sorry forgot to take pics of carbs before I soaked them they were pretty bad.
 
Thanks man love what your doin. I got a rear end out of a golf cart that im gonna try to make work soo we will see. Oh about shortening your rear axel did you do that all yourself. If so would love to know how you did. Cause that might be my other option.
Thanks again for all your info. Cant wait to see the finished product
 
that sounds cool make sure you put it on here so we all can follow what you are doing. as far as my shortening the axle housing, don't know about the golf kart but on a car or truck rear you drill out the factory weld pull out the housing from the pumkin then cut it down then insert and reweld, as far as the axle check with a machine shop in your area to see if they can shorten and respline it.
 
I got the brakes bled and working on the rear and the emergency brake hooked up and working. Also picked up a set of xs1100 special front forks,calipers,and fender that moves the front wheel out about 2 inches, so that should help with the rake on the bike and they are longer too. So I may not need a rake kit to make it steer easier. Also tried the pinesol cleaner (Original) treatment on my carbs and to my surprize it work really well. I let them soak for 2 days and what a difference and it won't harm any rubber or plasic on your carbs. once the forks get here I will install them, then turn my attention to the body of some sort haven't decided yet wheather to buy one or build one. Hey anyone got any ideas on what body to u se or to build one?
:GL1800:
 
What kind of tire would work the best on the front of my trike that I am building? tire on it now is 3.50 h19 Also the front forks I am using are off a xs1100 special which are 3 inches longer and move the wheel from the bottom of the forks to the front of the forks and are air assist. which should help with my rake of the forks. I am rebuilding the forks should I replace the springs for something a little stiffer?
 
Ok kind of at a stand still with the holiday and ordering some parts I need to continue with the build, so it may be after the holidays before I start the build again.
SO MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEARS TO EVERYONE.
 
ok I am at it again, got some parts in. So this is where I started. I found a small flywheel from a local speed shop, it is used but in good shape, Hey for 20 bucks who cares if I destroy it but I didn't because a new one costs 75 bucks. It fits a small block chevy but ford will work also. I had to machine out the center hole to make it fit over the rear pinion flange and weld it in place. Pic no.1
 
The flywheel is made by bert racing transmissions in canada and the local speed shop will charge you anywhere from 50 to 75 bucks for this. It is only 6 1/2 inches wide and a regular starter will work with it. I am going to find a small starter for it. then wire it in with a relay and a push button on the handle bars. So when you put the bike in neutral and push the button it should move backwards at a slow pace. I will post more pics as I go along.
 
The flywheel is made by bert racing transmissions in canada and the local speed shop will charge you anywhere from 50 to 75 bucks for this. It is only 6 1/2 inches wide and a regular starter will work with it. I am going to find a small starter for it. then wire it in with a relay and a push button on the handle bars. So when you put the bike in neutral and push the button it should move backwards at a slow pace. I will post more pics as I go along.

Is the flywheel going to be used for a reverse? I have been following along just not saying anything till now. Also I saw where you were asking about a body. My question would be do you want to mount the body in conjunction with the differential or to the frame? When I built my wife's trike I made a frame for the body to sit on, which that frame is attached to the differential. By doing this I was able to hang the fenders very close to the tires as they move in unison with the differential. If your looking for body ideas still I will give some input if you want it, but really need to see clear pictures of the whole rear setup. I like your ideas so far.
Danny
firstride004.jpg
 
Yes the flywheel is for reverse setup. And yes I am interested in your ideas on a body setup. will try and take better pictures tomorrow and post them so you can see what I have done so far.
 
I see where you have mounted your shocks, but from the pictures I'm a little confused to the up & down movement. Where is the pivot point? If you want to email me directly you can at hardone2get@yahoo.com

What ideas do you have in your head as to what shape would you like to see on the body?
 
I found a subaru starter and fabricated a mount for it to go on the rearend. That took awhile but I got it done and it works perfectly.
 
I'm curious as to what the reverse speed will be? That's a great idea you came up with. I got your email and when I get home tonight I will reply with some pictures and ideas.
 
I orderd 2 fenders today should have them in a week or so. Now got to go get some sheet metal to start forming the body. I have built stock car bodies but this is going to be different and harder I think, we will see.
 
I have been working on some other things as well, got the carbs back on after cleaning and rebuilding them and half of the airbox as well. Also ran the new wiring for the starter and relays I am using now to find some sort of starter botton or momentary switch to put on the handle bars.
 

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