I broke my trike

triwinggirl

500+ Posts
Jun 26, 2010
497
272
Las Vegas, NV
Name
TriWingGirl
I was leaving from a light and shifting into second gear. I let out the clutch and there was a very loud metal snapping noise and the right side wheel spun while making a very loud squealing noise. later while pulling it home applying the brakes made the same noise. :censored: :Excited:

i ride a D.F.T. 1800 goldwing. i believe it is either a shaft of the differential.

oh well i needed something to do :Shrug:

if Leon is out there i could use some diagnosis help. :AGGHH:

i will be pulling it apart tomorrow Sunday, and should know what i need in a day or so.

ladies this is why i fix it myself, i will do the work and it will never leave my home. also i won't have to pay for towing or labor just parts. still have to find rides now but that goes with my transpo being broke. :Shrug:
 
It's Sunday morning I've had my breakfast and it's not raining today. i'm getting ready to start pulling it apart.

I should know something by the end of the day. i will let you know. ThumbUp


all is well this morning? :Shrug:

thanks for the support Nana it helps ThumbUp
 
i'M SORRY YU DON'T UNDERSTAND THAT ONLY THE RIGHT WHEEL WAS TURNING AND HAD ALL THE POWER AND IT SPUN IN THE WET WEATHER. :Shrug:

Anyway very frustrated with my roommate very not helpful at all. :Trike1: :confused:

So far i found a broken left side drive shaft. the outside U-joint yoke separated from the shaft. sounds like a defect to me both parts seem to be fine just separated. :Shrug:

I will let yu know what i find once i get it in the wheel in the wheel chak and get the tires and fender off. ThumbUp

This should only take an hour or so after my good helper gets hear in an hour or so; he's not in a hurry. :censored:
 
Sounds like you have found the problem. Hope you have a good impact wrench. That axle nut is a booger. By the way, they are intended to be a one time use nut. You can buy one at Auto Zone or from Leon when you order the parts. They can use the brg. assembly number (513011K) to identify it. Keep us informed. Good luck. By the way, any way you can post or pm me a pic. of the shaft?
 
I was leaving from a light and shifting into second gear. I let out the clutch and there was a very loud metal snapping noise and the right side wheel spun while making a very loud squealing noise. later while pulling it home applying the brakes made the same noise. :censored: :Excited:

i ride a D.F.T. 1800 goldwing. i believe it is either a shaft of the differential.

oh well i needed something to do :Shrug:

if Leon is out there i could use some diagnosis help. :AGGHH:

i will be pulling it apart tomorrow Sunday, and should know what i need in a day or so.

ladies this is why i fix it myself, i will do the work and it will never leave my home. also i won't have to pay for towing or labor just parts. still have to find rides now but that goes with my transpo being broke. :Shrug:

What is DFT? Is this the trike mfg? What is the trike kit? Sorry but I am new to the trike way of life.
A:)
 
Got it apart

Hi all :wave4:

I got it apart and it's a broken left drive shaft. :mad: :censored: :Shrug:

I pulled it apart and was able to leave the fenders on, very cool, very easy. ThumbUp

first jack up the trike and remove the tires, then set the rear end on jack stands. Next relive the tension in the shocks, and remove the lower sway-bar bolt, then move the sway-bar connector arm out of the way.
Then i removed the broken drive shaft from the knuckle.
Next remove the one shock and move the other one out of the way.
Next remove the exhaust so you can get your bang on. :p
Finally beat out the other end of the broken drive shaft.

Now order new drive shaft and U-Joints ThumbUp


View attachment 5423

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View attachment 5427
 
You've had a busy, and sometimes frustrating day! But it looks like you have accomplished a lot despite the frustrations. I'm glad you've found the problem, anyway; and the solution is on the way. Thanks for posting the pictures too.
 
Just fyi. if you look at the flange that you took the four bolts out of you will see that there are two holes that are threaded. These are jack bolt holes. Take two of the four bolts that you took out and thread them in the two threaded holes and the whole assemble will come right out with out any "banging". The bottom shock bolts are the only one that need be removed this way. You can then work on the u joints on the bench.
 
Just fyi. if you look at the flange that you took the four bolts out of you will see that there are two holes that are threaded. These are jack bolt holes. Take two of the four bolts that you took out and thread them in the two threaded holes and the whole assemble will come right out with out any "banging". The bottom shock bolts are the only one that need be removed this way. You can then work on the u joints on the bench



I did not take out four bolts from a flange. I removed the lower shock bolt, removed the lower parts of the shocks. I could not get the forward shock out because the bolt hit the fender. So i pulled it out of the way and removed the other shock. i removed the muffler, 1 lower sway bar bolt.

To get the shaft out of the bearing knuckle assembly; i removed the nut with an impact driver and the shaft fell out. I banged out the U-joint on the trike thats why I removed the exhaust to make room. it was no problem.

what four bolts are you talking about?

If your talking about the round flange in the picture with 4 bolts, that the shaft yoke comes out? I know about those. I did not need to remove these this time. Besides it's a pain to re-aline everything when you take this out if you don't realese the other sides shocks.

If your talking about the 3 bolts holding the spindle in the knuckle? I have not yet had to remove those, the spindle and bearing are fine.


To add: After i heard the shaft break i got off all looked fine. When i got home and looked at it all looked fine. It seems as long as there was weight on the suspension the shaft stayed together. thats what was making all the noise the 2 parts ( shaft pipe and U-joint yoke ) spinning and rubbing grinding together.

As soon as i jacked it up, the wheel hung funny i knew were to look. The trike rolled for 1-2 miles downhill until i stopped at a light and it would not go any further under power. then it rolled fine while towed with a rope from the crash bars a little more to my home.

There was no other damage to the trike. No reason to dissasemble anything more.

It did not appear to have a broken shaft until i jacked it up. :Shrug:

I love this rear end easy to work on and it will get you home. ThumbUp
 
From what I can see in your pictures is that the weld on the shaft cracked all the way around. It does look like the person that did the welding did not get very good penetration when welding the 2 pieces together. Poor penetration means that the weld was on the surface of the 2 parts only and not welded all the way through joining both parts together. I hope your new one is welded correctly or you will end up with the same problem. Greg
 
If your talking about the round flange in the picture with 4 bolts, that the shaft yoke comes out? I know about those. I did not need to remove these this time. Besides it's a pain to re-aline everything when you take this out.

No trouble to realign at all. Had mine out a couple times this winter for maintenance on brgs. It is self aligning. Cannot be misaligned. In my mind, it would be better and much easier to remove the four bolts, jack the flange out with the short shaft all at once and do the work on the bench. When you get the control arm loose and swung out of the way, it is a five minute job. I think that will be what Leon advises if you ask him. Anyway, whatever works for you. More then one way to skin a cat. Glad you are on your way to getting it repaired.
 
I agree about the weld. ThumbUp

I had that part off before and understand that may be the suggested way. :Shrug: just did it different. :Shrug: it came out real easy. :Shrug:

It's ok i understand :Shrug: it only took a couple hours all together anyway. ThumbUp

Oh i get it yu grease those bearings. Are we supposed to do that?

i don't dissassemble that much just to grease, only transpo can't be down that long for grease. so i grease what i can.
 
Good news

GOOD NEWS ThumbUp:Excited:

D.F.T. called me first thing this morning. the parts are on the way and cost $100 + shipping.:wave4: ThumbUp

I love my DFT ThumbUp :goodjob:
 
Take a look before you put the new half shaft on. I didn't need to take the u joint caps off to assemble. There is usually a nut or pin under the geese by the caps. Either way a great job for not having any help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Well i do need an occasionally extra pair of hands. :Shrug:


I built the trike i would hope i can fix it. ThumbUp


All kidding aside thank you ThumbUp

i would always highly recommend a D.arn F.ine T.rike rear end if you are in the market to trike a bike. ThumbUp

Their kit is the lightest, most dependable,easiest to work on, best supported, most indestructible, rear end. ThumbUp

the drive shaft was broken and it rolled home on it's own wheels. remember the drive shaft holds the wheel on and is part of the suspension. :AGGHH:

this is a very well designed rear end. ThumbUp



:10:
 
From what I can see in your pictures is that the weld on the shaft cracked all the way around. It does look like the person that did the welding did not get very good penetration when welding the 2 pieces together. Poor penetration means that the weld was on the surface of the 2 parts only and not welded all the way through joining both parts together. I hope your new one is welded correctly or you will end up with the same problem. Greg

When you get the new half-shaft check the weld by

1) Cleaning the weld and hub with alcohol and let dry for 5 minutes.
2) Wipe on some light weight oil using a rag (3 in one, gun oil, Marvel Mystery oil, sewing machine oil) it must be oil (not WD-40 or other spray oil).
3) Do it a couple of times over 15 minutes.
4) Then wipe it off really good with just a clean rag. Do not use any cleaner.
5) Let it sit for 5 minutes.
6) Then after the 5 minutes dust the weld lightly with baby powder and let it sit for 10 minutes. Look for signs of oil in the baby powder.

If any oil appears on or next to the weld you could have a cracked weld already. If you get a blob of oil you did not clean it well enough so clean it again and go to step 5). Sounds like a long process, but it works really well, but it only works for surface cracks. I use this method for checking engine parts or welds that are suspected to be cracked. Hope you find this helpful and you don't find any cracks with the new half-shaft. Greg
 
I got my part. ThumbUp

I found a better way to take off/put on u-joints without banging. ThumbUp

Need ride to harbor freight to get tool. :Shrug:

i'm on schedule i need a tool, well i'm fixing something new. don't have the tool yet. thats why i banged out the old ones. All i had. :Shrug:

i got the part though and i will have it running tomorrow or Sunday. only a couple hour job. ThumbUp

Thanks for checking on me. i will update with pics of the assembly.
 
Just fyi. if you look at the flange that you took the four bolts out of you will see that there are two holes that are threaded. These are jack bolt holes. Take two of the four bolts that you took out and thread them in the two threaded holes and the whole assemble will come right out with out any "banging". The bottom shock bolts are the only one that need be removed this way. You can then work on the u joints on the bench.

After purchasing my new u-joint press and learning it works best clamped in a vise. :AGGHH:

I am reconsidering removing this flange and fixing it on the bench. :D

Thank you Rowdy for planting this seed of knowledge, it just took some time to make sense in this project. ThumbUp :Shrug:

I believe it will be easier than trying to press the u-joint while still on the trike. :Shrug:
 
After purchasing my new u-joint press and learning it works best clamped in a vise. :AGGHH:

I am reconsidering removing this flange and fixing it on the bench. :D

Thank you Rowdy for planting this seed of knowledge, it just took some time to make sense in this project. ThumbUp :Shrug:

I believe it will be easier than trying to press the u-joint while still on the trike. :Shrug:

You are welcome. Not trying to be a "know it all" but just to help with something I have experience with. One other disadvantage to banging around on the ujoint on the trike is that there are some bearings the shaft are running on that could possibly be damaged with too much hammering.
 
I got the flange out and the shaft repaired. ThumbUp



I stopped for lunch. :Coffee:


All thats left is assembly that will go fast. Here are some pics. ThumbUp

View attachment 5443

View attachment 5444

View attachment 5445

View attachment 5446

The brg. in the second photo should have stayed with the cup and shaft assembly if I am not mistaken. If I were you, I would pull it off the differential, clean it and the cup really well and put a couple drops of red loctite on it and put it back in the cup to be sure it does not spin. Another thing that I am sure you will do and that is to oil the shaft before reinstalling it. There is a seal in the differential and this will help prevent damage. Good luck.
 

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