hi forum members I HAVE A 2019 HONDA GOLDWING AND HAVE A LOOSE STEERING HEAD BEARING GIVING ME A CLUNK IN THE FRONT STEERING. the front yoke that the wheel is bolted too has up and down movement and also side to side movement ( max at traxxion dynamics has a video of this but no pre load spec.) to set the bearings to eliminate the play in the yoke. this is the spec. i am looking for.
head pipe torque
- Thread starter miabobo
- Start date
Deplorable
50+ Posts
Steering Head Bearings
From what I read on another board, it depends on what rake kit you install and the type of bearings. Changing from OEM to All Balls brand tapered bearings really made a difference on my bike before it was triked.
I would say talk to the trike maker and see what they suggest.
From what I read on another board, it depends on what rake kit you install and the type of bearings. Changing from OEM to All Balls brand tapered bearings really made a difference on my bike before it was triked.
I would say talk to the trike maker and see what they suggest.
- Thread starter
- #3
steering head bearings
thanks for the reply the 2019 honda goldwing is stock just looking to to adjust the the steering to get the looseness out of the steering head. looking to trike the bike in the future.
thanks for the reply the 2019 honda goldwing is stock just looking to to adjust the the steering to get the looseness out of the steering head. looking to trike the bike in the future.
Deplorable
50+ Posts
[FONT="]I copied and pasted these from another forum. They are talkin[/FONT]g about a bike, not a trike.[FONT="]
It continues to rain, so after work I followed Fred's demonstration of a short cut to check the steering head top nut to see if it was loose as Hairball noticed with his. I marked the nut and stem before applying torque and set the torque wrench to its setting where it alerts you as you approach the target torque and beeps when you are there. At 68 foot pounds of torque the top nut began to move and by the time I hit the specification(76ft#) it had moved only about 6 degrees of rotation. Now this is only the top nut and I did not tear down to the bearing preload adjustment as my strong clinical hunch is that the tires are the source of the decel wobble in this case. If it had been goose loose, I would have gotten a helper to hold the bottom end of the stem while I checked and re-set the bearing preload. I did order the test pins and Traxxion tie rod today, but that is likely a future project.
[/FONT][FONT="]No you don't have to remove the front shock, however access is much easier with it out. If it turns when you torque the top nut then you'll need a helper and a long extension with a wobble adapter and a 22mm socket to hold the bottom while someone else torques the top. It isn't an easy task, and so you really need 2 people.[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT]Did an air filter change and while I had it apart I figured I might as well check the steering stem bolt. I started out at the required 76 ft lbs. got almost a full rotation befor it started getting resistance then I started applying pretty good pressure and got to a point where I was afraid I would strip the threads so I backed it Down to 50 ft. Lbs. till I got the click from my torque wrench and started moving up from there to 60 to 70 when I got to 70 I was still afraid of stripping the threads so I when back down to 60 and the nut still moved after already being at 60 ft lbs and getting the click from my wrench. Is this normal for that nut.
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#2 · Nov 23, 2019 (Edited)
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
The stem itself can rotate when you're torquing the top bridge nut if you don't find a way to put a wrench or socket on the bolt on the bottom side of it to keep it from turning. This is probably what happened when you were trying to torque it. You can see in the photo I posted the manual shows holding it from the bottom while adjusting the bearings. Same thing needs to be done when torquing the top nut.
[h=4]Attachments[/h]
It continues to rain, so after work I followed Fred's demonstration of a short cut to check the steering head top nut to see if it was loose as Hairball noticed with his. I marked the nut and stem before applying torque and set the torque wrench to its setting where it alerts you as you approach the target torque and beeps when you are there. At 68 foot pounds of torque the top nut began to move and by the time I hit the specification(76ft#) it had moved only about 6 degrees of rotation. Now this is only the top nut and I did not tear down to the bearing preload adjustment as my strong clinical hunch is that the tires are the source of the decel wobble in this case. If it had been goose loose, I would have gotten a helper to hold the bottom end of the stem while I checked and re-set the bearing preload. I did order the test pins and Traxxion tie rod today, but that is likely a future project.
[/FONT][FONT="]No you don't have to remove the front shock, however access is much easier with it out. If it turns when you torque the top nut then you'll need a helper and a long extension with a wobble adapter and a 22mm socket to hold the bottom while someone else torques the top. It isn't an easy task, and so you really need 2 people.[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT]Did an air filter change and while I had it apart I figured I might as well check the steering stem bolt. I started out at the required 76 ft lbs. got almost a full rotation befor it started getting resistance then I started applying pretty good pressure and got to a point where I was afraid I would strip the threads so I backed it Down to 50 ft. Lbs. till I got the click from my torque wrench and started moving up from there to 60 to 70 when I got to 70 I was still afraid of stripping the threads so I when back down to 60 and the nut still moved after already being at 60 ft lbs and getting the click from my wrench. Is this normal for that nut.
Reactions:Hoopdc
SaveShare
Reply Quote Like
#2 · Nov 23, 2019 (Edited)
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
The stem itself can rotate when you're torquing the top bridge nut if you don't find a way to put a wrench or socket on the bolt on the bottom side of it to keep it from turning. This is probably what happened when you were trying to torque it. You can see in the photo I posted the manual shows holding it from the bottom while adjusting the bearings. Same thing needs to be done when torquing the top nut.
[h=4]Attachments[/h]
BottomOfStem.JPG
35 KBViews: 572
SteeringStem.JPG
69.1 KBViews: 278
Tightening.JPG
40 KBViews: 274
- Thread starter
- #5
steering head bearings
hi deplorable thanks for the info i believe he is working on the bridge steering nut which holds the handle bars on i am looking at the head bearing to find the pre load value. traxxion dynamics has a video on the loose bearing but does not give a pre load value. again thanks for your time. miabobo
I copied and pasted these from another forum. They are talking about a bike, not a trike.
It continues to rain, so after work I followed Fred's demonstration of a short cut to check the steering head top nut to see if it was loose as Hairball noticed with his. I marked the nut and stem before applying torque and set the torque wrench to its setting where it alerts you as you approach the target torque and beeps when you are there. At 68 foot pounds of torque the top nut began to move and by the time I hit the specification(76ft#) it had moved only about 6 degrees of rotation. Now this is only the top nut and I did not tear down to the bearing preload adjustment as my strong clinical hunch is that the tires are the source of the decel wobble in this case. If it had been goose loose, I would have gotten a helper to hold the bottom end of the stem while I checked and re-set the bearing preload. I did order the test pins and Traxxion tie rod today, but that is likely a future project.
No you don't have to remove the front shock, however access is much easier with it out. If it turns when you torque the top nut then you'll need a helper and a long extension with a wobble adapter and a 22mm socket to hold the bottom while someone else torques the top. It isn't an easy task, and so you really need 2 people.
Did an air filter change and while I had it apart I figured I might as well check the steering stem bolt. I started out at the required 76 ft lbs. got almost a full rotation befor it started getting resistance then I started applying pretty good pressure and got to a point where I was afraid I would strip the threads so I backed it Down to 50 ft. Lbs. till I got the click from my torque wrench and started moving up from there to 60 to 70 when I got to 70 I was still afraid of stripping the threads so I when back down to 60 and the nut still moved after already being at 60 ft lbs and getting the click from my wrench. Is this normal for that nut.
Reactions:Hoopdc
SaveShare
Reply Quote Like
#2 · Nov 23, 2019 (Edited)
The stem itself can rotate when you're torquing the top bridge nut if you don't find a way to put a wrench or socket on the bolt on the bottom side of it to keep it from turning. This is probably what happened when you were trying to torque it. You can see in the photo I posted the manual shows holding it from the bottom while adjusting the bearings. Same thing needs to be done when torquing the top nut.
Attachments
BottomOfStem.JPG
35 KBViews: 572
SteeringStem.JPG
69.1 KBViews: 278
Tightening.JPG
40 KBViews: 274
hi deplorable thanks for the info i believe he is working on the bridge steering nut which holds the handle bars on i am looking at the head bearing to find the pre load value. traxxion dynamics has a video on the loose bearing but does not give a pre load value. again thanks for your time. miabobo
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