I apologize first for the length of this post, but wanted to make sure that all the info was there.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I have an 06 GL1800, non-ABS, with a new Hannigan kit, 6 degree rake with a 2” riser. We bought the trike right after it had been kitted at 19,400 miles. Within 1,000 miles we noticed that the left seal (left only) was leaking to the point that we would have drips on the garage floor. I took it back to the dealer that did the kit install and he changed both seals (but not the bushings). The fork oil was very black and appeared to have been in there for quite some time.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
Within about 200 miles I started noticing just a light oil ring on both the left fork, but not to the point of dripping. I continued to ride it for a couple thousand miles, but the leak did not get better or worse. I took it back in and he again changed the left seal (but again not the bushings). This time we both very closely inspected the tube and could find no scratches or pitting.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I took the trike back home but within another 1,000 or so miles, the left seal started leaking again.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
The other complaint I had with this trike is that any little bump, such as a 1/2” high road patch, really transfers to the front handlebars. Any larger bumps would seem to really hammer hard. The trike still has the OEM springs.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this and other Honda forums and have come to the conclusion that <br /><br /><br /><br />
(1) the cause of my seal problems and harsh handling is likely a stuck anti-dive valve and;<br /><br /><br /><br />
(2) I don’t really need the anti-dive valve since the bike has been triked and most of the braking is now done with the rear wheels.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
Today I just got done disabling the anti-dive with a bored out nickel.<br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br />
As soon as it warms up a little more, I’ll take her for a test ride to see how she does now on the bumps.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
However, when I had the AD apart I firmly depressed the front brake and noticed that the plunger did not move at all.<br />
<br />
However, when I depressed the rear brake the plunger came out about ¼”.
Does this indicate that I may have a problem in the secondary master cylinder? If so, would a complete flushing of the brake fluid take care of the problem? I already bled a little out and it appeared to be clean with only a light amber tint. If I have disabled the anti-dive, do I really need to worry about the plunger not moving with the front brake? I know the bleed-thru valve (I think that’s what it’s called) is working as when I lightly apply the rear brake only at low speeds, I can hear the front brake working as well. <br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I am planning on taking the trike back in again for new OEM seals <b><u>and bushings</u> </b>on both forks and am considering changing out the OEM springs for either Progressive or Traxxion at the same time. The price difference between the 2 springs is not much so is there any consensus about which ones are better?
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I have an 06 GL1800, non-ABS, with a new Hannigan kit, 6 degree rake with a 2” riser. We bought the trike right after it had been kitted at 19,400 miles. Within 1,000 miles we noticed that the left seal (left only) was leaking to the point that we would have drips on the garage floor. I took it back to the dealer that did the kit install and he changed both seals (but not the bushings). The fork oil was very black and appeared to have been in there for quite some time.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
Within about 200 miles I started noticing just a light oil ring on both the left fork, but not to the point of dripping. I continued to ride it for a couple thousand miles, but the leak did not get better or worse. I took it back in and he again changed the left seal (but again not the bushings). This time we both very closely inspected the tube and could find no scratches or pitting.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I took the trike back home but within another 1,000 or so miles, the left seal started leaking again.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
The other complaint I had with this trike is that any little bump, such as a 1/2” high road patch, really transfers to the front handlebars. Any larger bumps would seem to really hammer hard. The trike still has the OEM springs.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this and other Honda forums and have come to the conclusion that <br /><br /><br /><br />
(1) the cause of my seal problems and harsh handling is likely a stuck anti-dive valve and;<br /><br /><br /><br />
(2) I don’t really need the anti-dive valve since the bike has been triked and most of the braking is now done with the rear wheels.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
Today I just got done disabling the anti-dive with a bored out nickel.<br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br />
As soon as it warms up a little more, I’ll take her for a test ride to see how she does now on the bumps.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
However, when I had the AD apart I firmly depressed the front brake and noticed that the plunger did not move at all.<br />
<br />
However, when I depressed the rear brake the plunger came out about ¼”.
Does this indicate that I may have a problem in the secondary master cylinder? If so, would a complete flushing of the brake fluid take care of the problem? I already bled a little out and it appeared to be clean with only a light amber tint. If I have disabled the anti-dive, do I really need to worry about the plunger not moving with the front brake? I know the bleed-thru valve (I think that’s what it’s called) is working as when I lightly apply the rear brake only at low speeds, I can hear the front brake working as well. <br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br />
I am planning on taking the trike back in again for new OEM seals <b><u>and bushings</u> </b>on both forks and am considering changing out the OEM springs for either Progressive or Traxxion at the same time. The price difference between the 2 springs is not much so is there any consensus about which ones are better?