Freewheeler down for the count

[edparss]

I have a 2019 Freewheeler, and installed some 16 inch apes, and had trouble getting wiring through the bars. Bottom line: got a little rough with the wires, and I’m sure there were some places where insulation was worn off. Lesson learned. Anyway, I didn’t have the bars quite tight enough, and when I hit some railroad tracks really hard, bars dropping a couple of inches, and now I’ve got electrical problems.

Installed new wiring, and now all that works is all the lights (come on only) and gas gauge light. NOTHING else works. All of the fuses check out good, but I don’t know how to test the two relays in fuse box. Could something other than a fuse get fried? Also, does the heated grip wiring on throttle by wire setup need to be hooked up to start/run? Thanks, Ed

 

[Jack Klarich]

Did you replace the wire loom or just repair it?

When you checked the fuses did you do a check across the fuse with a test light or multimeter?

Have you swapped the relays to see if anything changes?

I believe they are the same part numbers, # 7 is P&A relay, # 8 is cooling relay

 

[DK Custom Products]

I was recently working on a Trike that had a few electrical components stop working....this was after some electrical work had been done on the Trike by a friend.

I checked all the fuses first, visually....actually checked them all twice, because it just did not make sense that the driving lights and battery tender were not working.

All the fuses looked good, and I was starting to think maybe something had gone awry in the BCM...but before that I tore into it a bit and got down to the battery and checked all the connections. All good.

Now I was even more concerned that it might be the BCM...but I just could not believe that the BCM could sustain damage without popping a fuse.

So I went back to the fuses and checked them with my multi-meter. Sure enough, one that looked good, was actually bad.

Replaced it and all was well. 2 minutes worth of work got turned into over an hour.:xzqxz:

I could have saved time, as Jack noted in his post, about checking fuses.

Most fuses have tester contact points (see photo below), which makes testing them even easier.

Kevin

 

[edparss]

Yes, I swapped the relays, but nothing. I visually looked at the fuses, and tested the couple I thought were the culprits with a multimeter. I am going to check them really good again. Thanks, guys, good suggestions…

 

[rhino 2]

Yes, I swapped the relays, but nothing. I visually looked at the fuses, and tested the couple I thought were the culprits with a multimeter. I am going to check them really good again. Thanks, guys, good suggestions…

Just buy New fuses it never hurts to have extra..

 

[edparss]

Fixed

Sorry, got so exited I was back up and running, that I forgot to update. I had to rewrite (that was a given). Ended up be a bad relay and a bad fuse. Fuse looked and tested good, but wasn’t. Never had something like that happen before. Going to carry several extra fuses/relays with me from now on… Thanks everyone!!!

 

[stacebg]

one suggestion... you cant check continuity of a fuse with it in place, the circuit will show continuity if there is any draw at all.. either pull the fuse or check voltage on both sides

 

[edparss]

The fuse was checking good with a meter after pulling. That’s what I don’t get.

 

[rhino 2]

The fuse was checking good with a meter after pulling. That’s what I don’t get.

Fuses are inexpensive....Whenever i think a fuse is bad ...I just pop a new one in...:Shrug:..