Ever try removing a bottom neck race?

[pcombe]

I have been seeing allot of post lately on raked triple trees and their installation so I thought I would add a picture and posted notes from when I did my conversion just for your info.



Gotta figure out how to drive the bottom bearing race out of the neck before i can go back together with the new triple tree?


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Harley makes a tool to drive this race out but i don't have one. they are prohibitive in price and I don't plan to use one often.
there is NO edge on that race to get a punch on. folks say you can do it if you stay with it but i couldn't get it to save my life. You must have to drive big gouges in your inner neck frame to get on top of that race, and that just doesn't sit well with me and my ideas of quality control!

I Tried grinding and splitting the race with a dremel tool and various grinder wheels and bits and a punch but after 2 1/2 hrs gave it up! That metal is HARD, I just couldn't crack that race in two! Besides I was getting close to causing the same damage to the neck I was trying to avoid to begin with.

( Finally i stuck some electrical tape around the bottom circumferences of the neck and more inside over the top of the race to prevent striking an arc where I didn't want it) and put small spot tack welds on each side of the race to put a punch on (The heat from the tack welds will condense the metal after it cools a bit.)
and the race fell out in two light taps on the welds.

A couple more small tack welds and it would have fallen out by its self when it cooled.

The bigger the race the bigger tack welds.


I used to use that trick on races all the time, when i worked as heavy equipment mechanic, I should have done it in the first place.! ) Some times i think my head is running on 40 watts or less! And sometimes I just plain try to overthink things! :Coffee:

- See more at: http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/p...db4.jpg.html?sort=4&o=21#sthash.NuDITONJ.dpuf


WARNING:

Place your welders ground right next to where you are working to avoid striking an arc through any other bearings on your bike!

 

[Papa Zook]

Thanks for the article Paul,,very helpful. Some use a large flat blade screwdriver to drive it out, but I've always had better luck using a 12-14" length of thin walled 3/4" OD metal tubing. It has enough surface area contacting the lip of the bearing (at least on the newer bikes/bearings) to be able to tap it out from down through the neck. I do occasionally chop off a 1/4" or so off the bottom of my tubing, so that I have a fresh, sharp edge, makes it grab better. The really stubborn ones, I take out the Dremel and diamond disc.

 

[irmagoo]

hi paul
nice write up my friend!!
I always go for the welder-ground it to the race and make some tacks,,,, I use welder to remove broken studs, broke off bolts etc. saves me most of the time!!
magoo

 

[pcombe]

hi paul
nice write up my friend!!
I always go for the welder-ground it to the race and make some tacks,,,, I use welder to remove broken studs, broke off bolts etc. saves me most of the time!!
magoo

:Agree:

No! couldn't happen could it?
You bet, the welder saves me allot frustration on broken bolts.

:AGGHH: I have honest to god seen people attach a ground to the tracks on heavy equipment and strike an arc through every bearing between the ground and the work site.
And then wonder how come stuff breaks down?:Shrug:


- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the article Paul,,very helpful. Some use a large flat blade screwdriver to drive it out, but I've always had better luck using a 12-14" length of thin walled 3/4" OD metal tubing. It has enough surface area contacting the lip of the bearing (at least on the newer bikes/bearings) to be able to tap it out from down through the neck. I do occasionally chop off a 1/4" or so off the bottom of my tubing, so that I have a fresh, sharp edge, makes it grab better. The really stubborn ones, I take out the Dremel and diamond disc.

ThumbUpThere, You see! it sure seems to work for others. Guess im just the lucky one with no edge on the race to catch.:laugh: